Check your windshield wiper bushings!

[RonW]

I just installed new wiper drive bushings on both my E28s. These are rubber grommets that fit into the holes below the windshield the linkage sticks through to connect to the wiper arms. This is something everyone should check, because theses bushings are probably shot, in which case your wiper linkage is loose and could break. You need two of them. Part # 61 61 1 353 754. Used on most BMWs from the 2002 through the E38.

On my nice E28 with only 108k miles, the wiper linkage was loose and the bushings were shot. On my other E28 with 577k miles the bushing were completely gone. I'd replaced the linkage last year because it broke. It was extremely loose at that time, so I'm assuming that's why it broke.

[Chimi-Changa]

Great info, never thought to check those that's for sure. Thanks RonW

[Mike W.]

Seems to be one of those things were they're either perfect or junk. At least those are the only two stages I've seen them at. IIRC they're called something odd like "buffers" not grommets.

[matchstick]

My linkage is broke and I have a replacement ready to go. Gotta order the bushings though.

Just looking at it it seems like a pain to replace. Any pointers?

[llubahn]

Thank you my friend, great tip

[euro24]

Worn or missing bushings can also lead to excessive water leakage into the cowling area, which can in turn run into the passenger compartment through the harness grommets. Ask me how I know.

[RonW]

My linkage is broke and I have a replacement ready to go. Gotta order the bushings though.

Just looking at it it seems like a pain to replace. Any pointers?

It's an afternoon job. A large part of the afternoon. The Bentley procedure is more or less right, but only more or less; they don't mention the bushings.

To give you an idea of what you're in for, you have to take out the blower motor, which means you have to take out the firewall cover. You also have to unbolt the wiper motor from the linkage while the whole assembly is in the car.

Another little tidbit about the bushings: there are inserts that look like pinky rings. These inserts go on the linkage shafts and go though the bushings. It's a bit tough to try to force the inserts into the bushings after you install the bushings. Instead, get the linkage and motor in place, then drop the inserts onto the linkage shafts, then install the bushings, then install the funky washers and large retaining nuts. A little petroleum jelly might help install the bushings, but it isn't really necessary.

[matchstick]

My linkage is broke and I have a replacement ready to go. Gotta order the bushings though.

Just looking at it it seems like a pain to replace. Any pointers?

It's an afternoon job. A large part of the afternoon. The Bentley procedure is more or less right, but only more or less; they don't mention the bushings.

To give you an idea of what you're in for, you have to take out the blower motor, which means you have to take out the firewall cover. You also have to unbolt the wiper motor from the linkage while the whole assembly is in the car.

Doesn't the bentley procedure just say to remove the firewall (6 screws) and the blower? I didn't think it got any more descriptive than that.

I have the m20. Is it possible to get the blower motor and firewall section off without removing the intake manifold?

I attempted the replacement earlier this spring and tried to remove the linkage without removing the blower & wall (obviously wasn't successful). I didn't think that the blower could come out, even with the firewall removed. It looks like it'll interfere with the intake.

Also, quite a few hoses run through that wall. Any tips for removing and plugging them?

[davintosh]

I have the m20. Is it possible to get the blower motor and firewall section off without removing the intake manifold?

I attempted the replacement earlier this spring and tried to remove the linkage without removing the blower & wall (obviously wasn't successful). I didn't think that the blower could come out, even with the firewall removed. It looks like it'll interfere with the intake.

Also, quite a few hoses run through that wall. Any tips for removing and plugging them?

Yes, it'll come out with the intake in place. It takes some finagling, but it's doable.

It's an afternoon job. A large part of the afternoon. The Bentley procedure is more or less right, but only more or less; they don't mention the bushings.

To give you an idea of what you're in for, you have to take out the blower motor, which means you have to take out the firewall cover. You also have to unbolt the wiper motor from the linkage while the whole assembly is in the car.

Another little tidbit about the bushings: there are inserts that look like pinky rings. These inserts go on the linkage shafts and go though the bushings. It's a bit tough to try to force the inserts into the bushings after you install the bushings. Instead, get the linkage and motor in place, then drop the inserts onto the linkage shafts, then install the bushings, then install the funky washers and large retaining nuts. A little petroleum jelly might help install the bushings, but it isn't really necessary.

Any pics of the parts involved? I vaguely remember putting things together on my eta after the repaint, and not being terribly pleased with how it all went together. The only pics I could find at the time were in the Bentley and on RealOEM, and they weren't much help in figuring out how to put it back together.

[f1_rick]

great info but we may not need our windshield wipers again in Cali. It looks like it pretty much will not rain again EVER

[RonW]

Any pics of the parts involved? I vaguely remember putting things together on my eta after the repaint, and not being terribly pleased with how it all went together. The only pics I could find at the time were in the Bentley and on RealOEM, and they weren't much help in figuring out how to put it back together.

The linkage pictured in RealOEM doesn't look like the actual part. The link that connects the arm on the motor to the linkage runs to the arm at the base of the driver's side wiper. The motor goes underneath the linkage, and it sticks out toward the driver's side. (This is on US model cars.)

[Federico]

I did this repair a couple months ago, and was able to find this one pic:



Those are the rubber buffers and the "pinky rings" as RonW called them.
(yeah, that's a worn buffer on the right).

[RonW]

I did this repair a couple months ago, and was able to find this one pic:



Those are the rubber buffers and the "pinky rings" as RonW called them.
(yeah, that's a worn buffer on the right).

Normally the oddly profiled washers (not shown) are pressed down tightly on the buffers by the large retaining nuts (also not shown). This pressure keeps the linkage tight against the body, but also isolated from it. When the buffers get squashed over time, you can't tighten the nuts anymore because they're bearing down on the pinky rings, so the linkage is loose against the body. I don't know if this is what caused my linkage to break, but break it did.

[Motronic]

Thank you Ron for this thread! I will be doing this soon.

[ElGuappo]

Great thread ROn, and something I had never thought about, but I'm sure like most other original rubber my bushings are all done for.

[tig]

For reference here's the realOEM diagram:


I don't think you have to remove the firewall cover, fan, or linkages.

I was able to replace my bushings by simply removing the large nuts, vacuuming away the totally brittle and destroyed old bushings, pushing the wiper assembly down about 1/2" into the cowl (it flexes), and slipping the new bushings into place. The new bushings don't look anything like the ones in the photos above; they are more like little grommets.

Maybe I'm missing something, but this was super simple and took about 10 minutes.

Old bushing just deteriorated...


New bushing is on the right.


Thanks for the tip Ron!

[RonW]

Maybe I'm missing something, but this was super simple and took about 10 minutes.

If all you're doing is replacing the damper rings, that sounds about right. Removing the firewall cover, etc. is only necessary if you have to replace the linkage or motor.

[tig]

Maybe I'm missing something, but this was super simple and took about 10 minutes.

If all you're doing is replacing the damper rings, that sounds about right. Removing the firewall cover, etc. is only necessary if you have to replace the linkage or motor.

Oh, I see.... I missed that someone was asking how to remove the assemblies above. Peeps shouldn't hijacks great threads like this :-).