E28 Alpina B7 Turbo/1 #0083
I cannot agree more...alijonny wrote:Wow, what a fine ass!
I know how you feel now, Chris. And I can promise you, it is just a couple of weeks since I could add the Alpina-decals myself, remember?
Just have to ask...
Do you have new Alpina decals, or are the old ones going on?
I do have a BNIB B7Turbo-decal here, even though I have not decided if I ever will let it go (I have a dream of owning a totally restored E24 B7 turbo once in my lifetime, and I might wanna save it till then...)
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Patrick McHugh
- Posts: 4163
- Joined: Feb 12, 2006 12:00 PM
- Location: Richmond, VA
Nice progress. I'd be livid about the windows, just the fact that he goobered the seal up and then continued to goober it up until EVERYTHING was goobered up. They're hard and you really have to be on your game to get them right.
Did he use any sealant on the windshield? I insisted they weren't supposed to have sealant with customer then installed a windshield with a new BMW seal, glass and lockstrips without sealant and it decided to leak, thus making me look like a fool.
Did he use any sealant on the windshield? I insisted they weren't supposed to have sealant with customer then installed a windshield with a new BMW seal, glass and lockstrips without sealant and it decided to leak, thus making me look like a fool.
I don't know what they did, but it will be redone and I'll figure it out then. At this point, I'm just trying not to think much about it, which has allowed me to do other stuff.
Here's the deal, though. I decided to look at what the blue binder says about installing windscreens and I learned some stuff. Procedure begins on 51-28. It is the same for both the front and rear glass. There were two types of seals offered for these cars (same for E12s - checked that book too). One has a rigid side which attaches to the pinch weld much like how the sunroof seal does. This seal is installed onto the body, then the windshield installed into it. You then use special tools to install the lower trim and the lockstrips. No sealant. Then, there is the other style seal, which I imagine is all they sell now since I've got three different part numbers for windshield seals and they're all the same. These lack that stiff/rigid component, simply being all rubber. They require a sealant and they also recommend fully installing the assembly (locking strips, everything) off the car on the table, then offer it up to the car using the rope method. They suggested a piece of string or wire that is 22 feet long.
As for my progress on the car, the refinished drip rails are installed, I've run the car for about 10 minutes and every seems to function properly. All trunk equipment has been reinstalled and I've located the remnants of the original radio wiring. I hope to procure what I need to put it back into working shape by going to the yard in the next day or so, though it will most likely not happen for a while.
Here's the deal, though. I decided to look at what the blue binder says about installing windscreens and I learned some stuff. Procedure begins on 51-28. It is the same for both the front and rear glass. There were two types of seals offered for these cars (same for E12s - checked that book too). One has a rigid side which attaches to the pinch weld much like how the sunroof seal does. This seal is installed onto the body, then the windshield installed into it. You then use special tools to install the lower trim and the lockstrips. No sealant. Then, there is the other style seal, which I imagine is all they sell now since I've got three different part numbers for windshield seals and they're all the same. These lack that stiff/rigid component, simply being all rubber. They require a sealant and they also recommend fully installing the assembly (locking strips, everything) off the car on the table, then offer it up to the car using the rope method. They suggested a piece of string or wire that is 22 feet long.
As for my progress on the car, the refinished drip rails are installed, I've run the car for about 10 minutes and every seems to function properly. All trunk equipment has been reinstalled and I've located the remnants of the original radio wiring. I hope to procure what I need to put it back into working shape by going to the yard in the next day or so, though it will most likely not happen for a while.
Roy, you take the glass, put on the seal, and install the locking strips. Run a rope around the channel in the seal, then as you install into body, pull the rope out to get the rubber lip in place over the body lip (hopefully the headliner is glued well so you don't pull it loose). Someone on the outside applies some pressure to help it seat. Pretty much how you installed glass for decades before the glue-in types.
I wouldn't necessarily install the plastic locking strips, since it might make the work more difficult when "sucking in" the seal at the corners, but would try BMW's recommendation first and see how it goes. Metal pieces are advisable to install since they may help support the weight of the glass or keep the seal from getting deformed and are hard to install later.
I've not actually done glass before but have seen plenty of older cars get restored and been around when the glass gets installed. 911 rear glass is a PITA. All metal lockstrips, so those need to go in first. And lots of soapy water.
I wouldn't necessarily install the plastic locking strips, since it might make the work more difficult when "sucking in" the seal at the corners, but would try BMW's recommendation first and see how it goes. Metal pieces are advisable to install since they may help support the weight of the glass or keep the seal from getting deformed and are hard to install later.
I've not actually done glass before but have seen plenty of older cars get restored and been around when the glass gets installed. 911 rear glass is a PITA. All metal lockstrips, so those need to go in first. And lots of soapy water.
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Tammer in Philly
- Posts: 10719
- Joined: Feb 12, 2006 12:00 PM
- Location: CHI, IL
I tried doing a 71 VW bus windshield and failed miserably twice before I just gave up and sold it.Justin_FL wrote:Roy, you take the glass, put on the seal, and install the locking strips. Run a rope around the channel in the seal, then as you install into body, pull the rope out to get the rubber lip in place over the body lip (hopefully the headliner is glued well so you don't pull it loose). Someone on the outside applies some pressure to help it seat. Pretty much how you installed glass for decades before the glue-in types.
I wouldn't necessarily install the plastic locking strips, since it might make the work more difficult when "sucking in" the seal at the corners, but would try BMW's recommendation first and see how it goes. Metal pieces are advisable to install since they may help support the weight of the glass or keep the seal from getting deformed and are hard to install later.
I've not actually done glass before but have seen plenty of older cars get restored and been around when the glass gets installed. 911 rear glass is a PITA. All metal lockstrips, so those need to go in first. And lots of soapy water.
I should have just taken it to the Meheecans on the south side, all the name brand autoglass places turned me away.-
tavern gnome
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GaAlpinaOwner
- Posts: 1120
- Joined: Feb 12, 2006 12:00 PM
- Location: Atlanta Georgia USA
[quote="wkohler"]I don't know what they did, but it will be redone and I'll figure it out then. At this point, I'm just trying not to think much about it, which has allowed me to do other stuff.
Here's the deal, though. I decided to look at what the blue binder says about installing windscreens and I learned some stuff. Procedure begins on 51-28. It is the same for both the front and rear glass. There were two types of seals offered for these cars (same for E12s - checked that book too). One has a rigid side which attaches to the pinch weld much like how the sunroof seal does. This seal is installed onto the body, then the windshield installed into it. You then use special tools to install the lower trim and the lockstrips. No sealant. Then, there is the other style seal, which I imagine is all they sell now since I've got three different part numbers for windshield seals and they're all the same. These lack that stiff/rigid component, simply being all rubber. They require a sealant and they also recommend fully installing the assembly (locking strips, everything) off the car on the table, then offer it up to the car using the rope method. They suggested a piece of string or wire that is 22 feet long./quote]
Chris I have not been on this site for a while - been busy restoring a 2003 LandRover Discovery2 TReK Edition #5 of 16.But I also went through the same ordeal with my 85 B7 windshield ...a complete loss with seal and all trim pieces destroyed. There is only one way to do these right and the instructions you have are dead on....find someone that has done these and pay to have it done right. The trim is finicky especially on the corners. Also the new sunroof headliner complete is on its way to you.
the car looks fantastic.
Here's the deal, though. I decided to look at what the blue binder says about installing windscreens and I learned some stuff. Procedure begins on 51-28. It is the same for both the front and rear glass. There were two types of seals offered for these cars (same for E12s - checked that book too). One has a rigid side which attaches to the pinch weld much like how the sunroof seal does. This seal is installed onto the body, then the windshield installed into it. You then use special tools to install the lower trim and the lockstrips. No sealant. Then, there is the other style seal, which I imagine is all they sell now since I've got three different part numbers for windshield seals and they're all the same. These lack that stiff/rigid component, simply being all rubber. They require a sealant and they also recommend fully installing the assembly (locking strips, everything) off the car on the table, then offer it up to the car using the rope method. They suggested a piece of string or wire that is 22 feet long./quote]
Chris I have not been on this site for a while - been busy restoring a 2003 LandRover Discovery2 TReK Edition #5 of 16.But I also went through the same ordeal with my 85 B7 windshield ...a complete loss with seal and all trim pieces destroyed. There is only one way to do these right and the instructions you have are dead on....find someone that has done these and pay to have it done right. The trim is finicky especially on the corners. Also the new sunroof headliner complete is on its way to you.
the car looks fantastic.
Thanks David! I appreciate you offering that panel to me. Will help to make this that much better.
So, most of the stuff I've been doing lately has involved making sure all the wiring I need is where it is inside the car. As I've said before this car once had a big stereo and an alarm, so now that all of that wiring has been removed and no one ever responded to my request for some non-premium sound wiring, I had to take matters into my own hands and went to the yard.
I came back with remnants of stereo wiring from a few cars, none of them E28s as our yards had exactly one E28 and being a super eta with premium sound, it will not work for me. I did get the antenna wiring from this car though.
So, I ended up pulling the harnesses out of an E30 and all the wires are the same as E28. It was a little screwed up from douche-nozzles destroying the dashboard, but with cheating off the 533, I got it figured out without much issue. Fortunately, the rear speaker harness was complete in my car, so I got everything working and can put that all where it needs to go, then put the interior back together.
With that sorted, I decided to spend a bit of time on the front of the car. The valance had a bit of overspray on it from the chip guard, so before I did anything with it, I said, "This is Mike's problem" and drove out to Mesa. He took care of it no problem. little thinner, some wet sanding and buffing. Came back home and bolted it up. Forgot my phone had a camera so no photos.
Then I put the bumper together last night. Disappointed that the right front corner has a couple marks in it and my new bumper trim has a bunch of sharp indentations/impressions in it, but I can't afford to keep buying stuff I've already bought.
Still forgot photos. I started getting antsy. I decided to call the dealer this morning and buy the ten expanding nuts to put my lights in the valance. They've used them on every car since these were made, so they have to stock them and stock them they did. At $.36 each, I decided you can never have too many, so I bought 16. Not sure how I arrived at that number, but it was more than 10 and less than I needed to do two cars, so seems about right.
Three years ago, I bought brand new turn signals and grilles. Never looked at them. Found out a few weeks back that whoever "built" the assemblies was a moron and put E23/E24 plugs on them.
The yellow connector is correct.
I had some pigtails from the signals that I used on my 535is. I searched everywhere for a tool to take them apart, but I didn't want to pay $60. Then I looked at the wiring on the car and I noticed the Federalized running light was actually done nicely with heatshrink, etc and runs off of the city light circuit, so it can't be that bad to keep it. My housings were nice, too, so I cleaned them up and just used the new lenses. This meant removing them from the 528i, replacing those with another okay set I had and moving on. Fogs installed and time for a photo.
Then I said, "I can't just leave it there, so I need to put my lights in."
I had bought some lamps from Ivo. I didn't like the French high beams for this car, but wanted them for something else. I dipped into my newly delivered set of lamps from Schmiedmann and replaced the high beams. Twice. I installed them upside down only to find the spring wouldn't connect. So, I did it over. Replaced the bulbs and installed the wiper motors, etc.
Then I figured we need grilles. So, I grabbed those grilles I bought a few years ago and put them in.
Then I looked at it harder and said, let's put those wipers on.
I also decided that the photo would look stupid without the roundel, so I set one on the hood.
The anchors for the screws for the spoiler survived removal, but only three came back from the shop. I went searching for a suitable option, but every "expanding nut" was square. I had round holes and learned at an early age that it doesn't work.
I bought something out of boredom, but no worky. I decided on the way home that if this doesn't work, Machine screws, fender washers and nuts were the solution. Precisely what I did using metric stainless stuff, but I kept the nuts zinc plated.
And here's the spoiler.
After that, I grabbed my real camera, pushed the car out and took a few photos of the progress so far.
I've got the tow hook extension, but it's in Georgia right now. It was in two pieces, so I offered it for duplication, and it should be repaired and I should be getting one of the duplicates if I understood the arrangement correctly.
Then, I got an idea.
That's all for now.
So, most of the stuff I've been doing lately has involved making sure all the wiring I need is where it is inside the car. As I've said before this car once had a big stereo and an alarm, so now that all of that wiring has been removed and no one ever responded to my request for some non-premium sound wiring, I had to take matters into my own hands and went to the yard.
I came back with remnants of stereo wiring from a few cars, none of them E28s as our yards had exactly one E28 and being a super eta with premium sound, it will not work for me. I did get the antenna wiring from this car though.
So, I ended up pulling the harnesses out of an E30 and all the wires are the same as E28. It was a little screwed up from douche-nozzles destroying the dashboard, but with cheating off the 533, I got it figured out without much issue. Fortunately, the rear speaker harness was complete in my car, so I got everything working and can put that all where it needs to go, then put the interior back together.
With that sorted, I decided to spend a bit of time on the front of the car. The valance had a bit of overspray on it from the chip guard, so before I did anything with it, I said, "This is Mike's problem" and drove out to Mesa. He took care of it no problem. little thinner, some wet sanding and buffing. Came back home and bolted it up. Forgot my phone had a camera so no photos.
Then I put the bumper together last night. Disappointed that the right front corner has a couple marks in it and my new bumper trim has a bunch of sharp indentations/impressions in it, but I can't afford to keep buying stuff I've already bought.
Still forgot photos. I started getting antsy. I decided to call the dealer this morning and buy the ten expanding nuts to put my lights in the valance. They've used them on every car since these were made, so they have to stock them and stock them they did. At $.36 each, I decided you can never have too many, so I bought 16. Not sure how I arrived at that number, but it was more than 10 and less than I needed to do two cars, so seems about right.
Three years ago, I bought brand new turn signals and grilles. Never looked at them. Found out a few weeks back that whoever "built" the assemblies was a moron and put E23/E24 plugs on them.
The yellow connector is correct.
I had some pigtails from the signals that I used on my 535is. I searched everywhere for a tool to take them apart, but I didn't want to pay $60. Then I looked at the wiring on the car and I noticed the Federalized running light was actually done nicely with heatshrink, etc and runs off of the city light circuit, so it can't be that bad to keep it. My housings were nice, too, so I cleaned them up and just used the new lenses. This meant removing them from the 528i, replacing those with another okay set I had and moving on. Fogs installed and time for a photo.
Then I said, "I can't just leave it there, so I need to put my lights in."
I had bought some lamps from Ivo. I didn't like the French high beams for this car, but wanted them for something else. I dipped into my newly delivered set of lamps from Schmiedmann and replaced the high beams. Twice. I installed them upside down only to find the spring wouldn't connect. So, I did it over. Replaced the bulbs and installed the wiper motors, etc.
Then I figured we need grilles. So, I grabbed those grilles I bought a few years ago and put them in.
Then I looked at it harder and said, let's put those wipers on.
I also decided that the photo would look stupid without the roundel, so I set one on the hood.
The anchors for the screws for the spoiler survived removal, but only three came back from the shop. I went searching for a suitable option, but every "expanding nut" was square. I had round holes and learned at an early age that it doesn't work.
I bought something out of boredom, but no worky. I decided on the way home that if this doesn't work, Machine screws, fender washers and nuts were the solution. Precisely what I did using metric stainless stuff, but I kept the nuts zinc plated.
And here's the spoiler.
After that, I grabbed my real camera, pushed the car out and took a few photos of the progress so far.
I've got the tow hook extension, but it's in Georgia right now. It was in two pieces, so I offered it for duplication, and it should be repaired and I should be getting one of the duplicates if I understood the arrangement correctly.
Then, I got an idea.
That's all for now.
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Adam W in MN
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mooseheadm5
- Beamter
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Das_Prachtstrasse
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Tammer in Philly
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- Location: CHI, IL
Thanks all. It's not 100% finished up front. Some stuff has to come back apart to change all the washer hose and replace a few fasteners. It's nice to have something to look at when I open the garage door.
Tammer - I plan on re-shooting that last photo. It wasn't apparent at the time, being more of a hmmm, this is interesting kinda deal, so I didn't give it much thought but it's the first thing you notice in the photo.
Sure, I might have the only B7 Turbo in North America with the badge on the grille like that, but so far as I can figure, it's the correct way - at least for my car, as I understand it's angle varied. Either way, I think it's neat like that and it was that way when the car came to me. I didn't notice any signs of it having been removed and repositioned or the grille having been changed.Das_Prachtstraße wrote:Looks excellent, Chris.
Are you leaving the grille badge crooked?
Tammer - I plan on re-shooting that last photo. It wasn't apparent at the time, being more of a hmmm, this is interesting kinda deal, so I didn't give it much thought but it's the first thing you notice in the photo.