I have no idea. Frankly, I've never looked closely at any of it. I'm getting some rear head rests and that will force me to really tuck my head under there. I'll let you know...Ron535i wrote:What is the size of that woofer and how much power is going to it..? Also, Do you know what size hole was cut in the rear package tray for that woofer to work..?
I meant to ask you about this a long time ago but I got side tracked and I keep going back and forth on ideas of how to introducing more base to my current set up... Thanks for posting the pic.
Vlad: The Zinno '87 535is
I owe 1st 5er a beer. Looks like all that oil was from the oil pressure switch after all. This morning, after a long drive yesterday, which would normally result in a big puddle:1st 5er wrote:cek wrote:Bastard. I was going to fix that but you HAD to quote it.1st 5er wrote:cek wrote:One more question:
What is the common cause of a leak with the oil pressure switch?
- Do they fail and need to be replaced?
- The they come loose?
- Does the seal/washer fail?
Thanks.
My experience has been the plastic to metal separating and leaking.
I'm glad I'm not the only late night grammar challenged one on the board getting quoted.
Payback is hell.
Got Vlad's oil analysis back from BlackstoneLabs.
Code: Select all
CHARLIE: Lead was a little high in this sample, but everything else looks great. Universal averages show
typical wear for the 3.4L BMW M30 engine after ~4,300 miles on the oil. Your run was a bit longer, and most
metals fell in line accordingly. We expect iron to track directly with time on the oil, and the other metals
should stay pretty close to average even if you run longer on the oil next time. No contamination was found
in the sample, and the oil was physically in good shape, so we don't see any reason why you can't go longer
on the next oil. Try 7,000 miles and check back.
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RoyW just sent me pics of the headrests he MEANT to send me. They are correct. He just goofed and I was not paying close enough attention. He's sending the right ones and I'm sending the wrong ones back.
For the turn signals? My bad for not verifying they were OEM. Bad on boby for not being clear in his ad.
I'd like to say I've learned something...
For the turn signals? My bad for not verifying they were OEM. Bad on boby for not being clear in his ad.
I'd like to say I've learned something...
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- Location: Rochester Hills, Michigan
- Contact:
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- Location: Atlanta
Thanks!
Hard to believe its been a year already! Thanks for keeping us frequently updated, your posts are very informative and inspiring
Re: Thanks!
I second thisCYoung wrote:Hard to believe its been a year already! Thanks for keeping us frequently updated, your posts are very informative and inspiring
Thanks for the encouragement guys.
If you're subscribed to my M30B35 thread you know that it is finally going together. Maytag is now 'done' enough that I think I'm mostly confident (!?!) in it as a daily driver. This means it is time to get serious about parking Vlad and pulling the current engine.
But first, I'm going to dyno it. I have an appointment on Friday at Carb Connection in Kirkland to do three runs:
- As-is, with the Conforti chip
- With the OEM chip
- With the Miller MAF and Miller chip I got from Kohler
Sometime this week I'm going to hack up the mods required to make the Miller plug and play (I hope). If I can't get the MAF done, then no biggie; it was just for shits-and-giggles anyway.
The key is to know precisely what rwhp/rwtq the car currently produces so that after the new engine is in we can see what all that money bought us.
I'm starting to build a list of things that I will replace/refurbish on Vlad once the engine bay is empty. I figure that as long as I don't take TOO long, there's no rush, and given I'm keeping this car forever, I might as well fix anything that's hard to get to unless the motor/tranny are out.
Please help me flush this list out.
If you're subscribed to my M30B35 thread you know that it is finally going together. Maytag is now 'done' enough that I think I'm mostly confident (!?!) in it as a daily driver. This means it is time to get serious about parking Vlad and pulling the current engine.
But first, I'm going to dyno it. I have an appointment on Friday at Carb Connection in Kirkland to do three runs:
- As-is, with the Conforti chip
- With the OEM chip
- With the Miller MAF and Miller chip I got from Kohler
Sometime this week I'm going to hack up the mods required to make the Miller plug and play (I hope). If I can't get the MAF done, then no biggie; it was just for shits-and-giggles anyway.
The key is to know precisely what rwhp/rwtq the car currently produces so that after the new engine is in we can see what all that money bought us.
I'm starting to build a list of things that I will replace/refurbish on Vlad once the engine bay is empty. I figure that as long as I don't take TOO long, there's no rush, and given I'm keeping this car forever, I might as well fix anything that's hard to get to unless the motor/tranny are out.
Please help me flush this list out.
- Driveshaft - The one in the car has 177k on it.
- Guibo
- Brake bomb (no service records of it being replaced)
- Master cylinder (TBD - PO installed one from a 740i at 165K miles when he upgraded the brakes)
- Heater fans
- Touch up paint in engine bay
- Powder coat front sub-frame & bits
- Beef up steering box bracket
- Short shift kit? Not sure I want one, but at the minimum I'll take a close look at all bushings.
- New clutch/throwout/slave.
- Car shifts great; I'm assuming the tranny is fine. I'll replace the fluid, but otherwise leave it alone.
- Drop & clean gas tank. I may replace it as it has a dent in it.
- New in-tank fuel pump.
- May re-paint the entire underside.