ABS speed sensors/Troubleshooting

[KegCoyote]

I've looked around and I haven't seen any comprehensive charts on ABS systems. While trying to determine the cause of a wheel related grinding(which was corrected), I had to pull out the right front ABS sensor with channel locks since it was really stuck, and after cleaning and inspecting it flagged the ABS light. Since then I've inspected the front two hubs/sensors, and the rear sensors. I inspected one of the I've got live readings (with the help of a friend) from a ~10mph session of each pulse sensor, and I'm sure I've got to replace at least one of them.

Here's the current readings:
Front Right 1.124K Ohm
7.5mV AC(Bad, original cause of ABS light)
Front Left 1.133K Ohm
0.4V AC
Rear Right 1.410K Ohm
1.0V AC(Output high, suspect part)
Rear Left 1.443K Ohm
0.5V AC

I got the readings from the ABS computer plug since a sensor connection crumbled in my hands and I had to ghetto rig it back together(no change in ohm value though).

ABS Computer Plug pins:


ABS Computer Location:


ABS Wiring Diagram:


I'm thinking about doing a spread sheet of mV value/ohm readings and sharing it once I get the system back in shape so folks have some reference points while troubleshooting their ABS systems. I can't do the disconnect method due to the severe weathering of the connectors.

Info sources:
http://normgrills.net/bcg/Brakes_FAQ.ht ... or47160201
MyE28.com Tech Talk & Search feature.

[John in VA]

Nice work. Best of luck moving forward with the repair!

[charter21p5]

I'm thinking about doing a spread sheet of mV value/ohm readings and sharing it once I get the system back in shape so folks have some reference points while troubleshooting their ABS systems.

If you have the time that would be very cool. I would bookmark it for future reference.

[Hupa]

I've looked around and I haven't seen any comprehensive charts on ABS systems. While trying to determine the cause of a wheel related grinding(which was corrected), I had to pull out the right front ABS sensor with channel locks since it was really stuck, and after cleaning and inspecting it flagged the ABS light. Since then I've inspected the front two hubs/sensors, and the rear sensors. I inspected one of the I've got live readings (with the help of a friend) from a ~10mph session of each pulse sensor, and I'm sure I've got to replace at least one of them.

Here's the current readings:
Front Right 1.124K Ohm
7.5mV AC(Bad, original cause of ABS light)
Front Left 1.133K Ohm
0.4V AC
Rear Right 1.410K Ohm
1.0V AC(Output high, suspect part)
Rear Left 1.443K Ohm
0.5V AC

I got the readings from the ABS computer plug since a sensor connection crumbled in my hands and I had to ghetto rig it back together(no change in ohm value though).

ABS Computer Plug pins:


ABS Computer Location:


ABS Wiring Diagram:


I'm thinking about doing a spread sheet of mV value/ohm readings and sharing it once I get the system back in shape so folks have some reference points while troubleshooting their ABS systems. I can't do the disconnect method due to the severe weathering of the connectors.

Info sources:
http://normgrills.net/bcg/Brakes_FAQ.ht ... or47160201
MyE28.com Tech Talk & Search feature.

This is a 10yo thread, but let’s give it a go…
My front pulse rings and sensors seem ok: both 1kOhm and I get roughly 0,5V from both sensors by spinning the wheels just by hand. The rear end sensors and pulse rings are shot, though.
I’m trying to make the system seemingly operational for inspection, but don’t want to take the rear end apart just yet.
Would it work just to jump the right/left rear pins to the corresponding front pins? I know this is a dangerous trick, and I would take it out immediatelly after inspection (unplugging one of the front ABS-sensors should switch off the whole ABS, and give me standard brakes, correct?).
Has anyone done this? Any tips on how to jump the pins? It seems very difficult from the front side of either the connector or the unit… so best to open the connector and jump there?