3.5L e28 intake manifold better flow then e34?
Can anyone confirm or deny this rumor?
I am putting a 90 m30/b35 into my e30. I have at my disposal an 87 m30/b34 as well. If swapping the intakes will yield better performance I might as well do it while the engines are sitting on the shop floor.
Does anyone have any other performance suggestions I should consider before I cram the 3.5 into the confines of the small e30 engine bay?
I am putting a 90 m30/b35 into my e30. I have at my disposal an 87 m30/b34 as well. If swapping the intakes will yield better performance I might as well do it while the engines are sitting on the shop floor.
Does anyone have any other performance suggestions I should consider before I cram the 3.5 into the confines of the small e30 engine bay?
That's patently untrue, the intake on the B35 has larger runners that match the larger ports and valves on the B35 head. In fact, your mention of it is the first I've heard of it.lovnbmws wrote:3.5L e28 intake manifold better flow then e34?
Can anyone confirm or deny this rumor?
There's another regular poster on this forum, rs4pro3, that already has a M30 engine in his e30, he'll likely respond to your inquiry. Are you using the pre-made engine mounts from the German group that does this swap all the time?I am putting a 90 m30/b35 into my e30. I have at my disposal an 87 m30/b34 as well. If swapping the intakes will yield better performance I might as well do it while the engines are sitting on the shop floor.
Does anyone have any other performance suggestions I should consider before I cram the 3.5 into the confines of the small e30 engine bay?
[Edit by fastpat on [TIME]1108241268[/TIME]]
Yep Lot's of Firewall pounding and I still didn't even pound enough. I don't know how I'd get a stock fan in there I purchased one of the watter pumps without the threads as I had plans to run a electric fan to begin with. I don't have any pics of the pounding, but there are 3 areas. First is Passenger floor board from battery tray down, good .5 inch probally, Second spot is bottom of Blower cover area for the pipe coming off the cylinder head, Third spot is under the Brake booster by the starter. In Position 3 you need to put the tranny on in Position 2 and then move the whole thing back as you'd never get the engine to tilt.
[QUOTE="rs4pro3"]Ya I've got an 1984 633csi engine in mine, been in there for a little over a month. If you use a stock E28/E24 5-speed tranny find an 87 325e driveshaft as it bolts right up. I used the mounts from e30.de and have it in position 3.
It Deffinately is a tight fit.[/QUOTE]
Hey, man, you've got a nasty bulge in that upper radiator hose, better get a new one soon. The others don't look so good either.
It Deffinately is a tight fit.[/QUOTE]
Hey, man, you've got a nasty bulge in that upper radiator hose, better get a new one soon. The others don't look so good either.
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Whats the difference between an e and i driveline besides the harmonic balancer and a larger center carrier baring on the i? Shouldnt they be the same length?rs4pro3 wrote:If you use a stock E28/E24 5-speed tranny find an 87 325e driveshaft as it bolts right up.
Im making my own engine mounts and will probably go with position 3.Are you using the pre-made engine mounts from the German group that does this swap all the time?
I did this swap for George Graves.
We used an E30 M3 driveshaft which had to be shortened around 4". This was done when rebalancing the driveshaft and cost a whopping $485!!
We made our own motor mounts which position the engine around 3.5 if you compare it to others. We used a B35 engine with 90k miles and a G265 gearbox.
The only way Ely's method works is if you use a G260/5 gearbox as it is around 2" shorter than the G265
If you want to see what I am talking about, refer to this pic:
You can see the different length's of these trannies. In order from top to bottom, we have:
1. G260/6 E30 M20 5spd
2. G265 E28 535i ('85) 5spd
3. G260/5 E24 M30 5spd
It's hard to see the difference with the 265 no having a bellhousing, but just look at the input and output shafts of the different trannies.
We used an E30 M3 driveshaft which had to be shortened around 4". This was done when rebalancing the driveshaft and cost a whopping $485!!
We made our own motor mounts which position the engine around 3.5 if you compare it to others. We used a B35 engine with 90k miles and a G265 gearbox.
The only way Ely's method works is if you use a G260/5 gearbox as it is around 2" shorter than the G265
If you want to see what I am talking about, refer to this pic:
You can see the different length's of these trannies. In order from top to bottom, we have:
1. G260/6 E30 M20 5spd
2. G265 E28 535i ('85) 5spd
3. G260/5 E24 M30 5spd
It's hard to see the difference with the 265 no having a bellhousing, but just look at the input and output shafts of the different trannies.
Ya the 87 325e 5-speed driveshaft is the only one with the larger guibo of the m30, and works with the non removable bell housing m30 trannies. It has to be a pre 6/87 driveshaft though and only from a 325e, as the 325i has standard m20 size guibo. I've read it's the 84 633csi automatic driveshaft that also bolts right in with no shortening.
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