washer fluid "issues"

[dasMafia]

btw, nice new software..... now you're even technologically ahead of roadkill!

but I digress... a few weeks back, I stopped getting washer fluid out of the jets, I'd get a little dribble, but it would barely REACH the window... no obvious leaks, level very good, I could hear the pump running.... hmmmm.

NOW, in the "info center" I get a fault light for washer fluid, yet, the level is still high, the pump still runs but nothing really happens.

any good places to start.... I am NOT, I repeat NOT an electronics guru.... could be a plugged line, but why would that cause a fault light???? sometimes I hate this car....

[stuartinmn]

If you hear the pump running, chances are it's ok. I'd check for plugged nozzles or cracked hoses. You can clean the nozzles out with a small pin or needle. As far as the light coming on, often the sensor goes bad or gets sticky. Try taking it out of the car, bringing it inside, and scubbing it good and clean in the kitchen sink with some soap and an old toothbrush.

[RonW]

Originally posted by dasMafia
I stopped getting washer fluid out of the jets, I'd get a little dribble, but it would barely REACH the window... no obvious leaks, level very good, I could hear the pump running....

NOW, in the "info center" I get a fault light for washer fluid, yet, the level is still high, the pump still runs but nothing really happens.

Sounds like you have two separate issues:

-The Dribble. When this happens, the problem is usually the T mounted under the hood. This device has two functions. It splits the flow into two- one for each nozzle assembly, and it acts as a check valve, to prevent the washer fluid from flowing back into the reservoir. The latter is so that when you pull the lever, the fluid comes out right away.

The check valve function is implemented as a rubber diaphragm- one for each side. These diaphragms wear out, and when they do, the fluid no longer gets to the nozzles. Instead, it leaks all over your engine. Note that only the side whose diaphragm breaks fails- the other side continues to function normally.

Some of us have tired of replacing this little plastic thing every few years and have replaced it with a huge brass thing made of standard fittings made by Shawn D.

-The False Warning. The level sensor uses the same technology as the coolant level sensor. And as many longtime e28 owners can testify, the coolant level sensor is notorious about failing in such a way as to cry wolf.

[Edited 8/24/2008 to enable BBCode]

[Blue Shadow]

The orientation of the level indicator is also important. It can be rotated such that it will not work properly.

[Cosmoblau]

You can check the resistance of the coolant level sensor by disconnnecting the plug and placing multimeter leads on each terminal. Dismount the coolant resevoir bottle and turn over on its side or upside down with the leads connected. You just might find that the resistance will be high and will not change. This will indicate that you need a new sensor.

[Shawn D.]

[QUOTE="RonW"]Some of us have tired of replacing this little plastic thing every few years and have replaced it with a huge brass thing made of standard fittings made by Shawn D.[/QUOTE]

Yep, I still make a few now and then. So far, no failures have been reported in the two years since I started making them. Yeah, the sample size is small (at 18 as of a couple of months ago) and the average age is only about a year.

My Brass & Stainless Washer Tee/Check Valve

[a]

uhhmn, more over engineering to replace a plastic over- engineered OEM part. A 49 cent plastic tee works just fine. It takes less than a second for the system to squirt onto the windshield.

[shifty]

[QUOTE="a"]uhhmn, more over engineering to replace a plastic over- engineered OEM part. A 49 cent plastic tee works just fine. It takes less than a second for the system to squirt onto the windshield. [/QUOTE]

A,

I think the problem is that, sometimes, the plastic washer T fails early -- Hey, it's only plastic -- and makes you have to buy another one. If Shawn's piece lasts even twice as long as the 50 cent plastic piece, it's worth it after you factor in time and effort spent calling or going by the dealer to pick up the part and then having to leeeeeeeeean way over the back of the enging bay to install the damned thing.

With all due respect, I don't see too many other people on the board attempting to solve common E28 problems -- leaky washer T, shitty tail lights, lack of proper gauging -- with modern engineering.

[RonW]

Originally posted by Shifty
With all due respect, I don't see too many other people on the board attempting to solve common E28 problems -- leaky washer T, shitty tail lights, lack of proper gauging -- with modern engineering.

I'm not sure how "modern" Shawn's big brass thingies are. Sure, he made a new configuration, but the parts probably predate the e28 and its plastic T-check combo.

[Edited 8/24/2008 to enable BBCode]

[shifty]

It's more modern than the plastic POS check valve that we normally get to put up with.

The other items of Shawn's that I mentioned are more modern than the E28 itself.

[a]

[QUOTE="a"]uhhmn, more over engineering to replace a plastic over- engineered OEM part. A 49 cent plastic tee works just fine. It takes less than a second for the system to squirt onto the windshield. [/QUOTE]

[QUOTE="Shifty"]A,

I think the problem is that, sometimes, the plastic washer T fails early -- Hey, it's only plastic -- and makes you have to buy another one. If Shawn's piece lasts even twice as long as the 50 cent plastic piece, it's worth it after you factor in time and effort spent calling or going by the dealer to pick up the part and then having to leeeeeeeeean way over the back of the enging bay to install the damned thing.

With all due respect, I don't see too many other people on the board attempting to solve common E28 problems -- leaky washer T, shitty tail lights, lack of proper gauging -- with modern engineering.[/QUOTE]what dealer? I use stuff found at any hardware store. Hey I like Shawn , and I appreciate his creations. but 15 $ worth of brass plumbing when a cheap ass tee will fix the problem doesnt seem like a step in the right direction. Btw have you seen the ball valve he kludged in to replace the htr valve on his 535? Shawn's not above hacking a bit either. He could have at least rigged a cable up to it

[Shawn D.]

[QUOTE="RonW"]I'm not sure how "modern" Shawn's big brass thingies are. Sure, he made a new configuration, but the parts probably predate the e28 and its plastic T-check combo.[/QUOTE]
Modern, it ain't!

[QUOTE="a"]I use stuff found at any hardware store. Hey I like Shawn , and I appreciate his creations. but 15 $ worth of brass plumbing when a cheap ass tee will fix the problem doesnt seem like a step in the right direction. Btw have you seen the ball valve he kludged in to replace the htr valve on his 535? Shawn's not above hacking a bit either. He could have at least rigged a cable up to it [/QUOTE]
Actually, the parts cost a significant bit more than $15, as they're not just "brass plumbing" but contain two brass-and-stainless check valves, which near the $15 mark each. You're also forgetting the significant expense of Mil-Spec teflon tape! :p Remember, I'm an engineer, and as engineers often say: "If it ain't broke, it needs a new feature!"

Yeah, that ball valve was definitely a hack. I went without the cable since I intended to run it only a few weeks, which I actually did. When the replacement OE valve insert failed (along with the main housing) only a month after installation, I put the ball valve back in 'cause at the time I was tight on $$$. At that point, I decided against adding cable because I figured that would make it too functional, thus making me too comfortable with retaining the hack. Now I've got a new OE heater valve assembly in and haven't had a failure since I've been running BMW coolant.