So whats up with the Banjo bolts guys?

[smackmybutter535i]

I read in the BMW Enthusiests Companion that the banjo bolts in the head get loose causing oil to not reach the cam. If this is true, where can I find them? Bently tells me nothing about them. I wanna tighten these suckers befor I have to replace my head or something(or maybe a way to convince my wife to be I need to buy a schrick cam)

[fastpat]

You go to the dealer, or to Brian the Parts Pimp, or Steve Haygood and ask them for the updated oil rail bolts for a 535i engine. They fit every M30 engine made as far as I know, definitely fit engines from '71 to 1992. the updated bolts have a groove cut in the top of the head for ID purposes, and you'll need four aluminum sealing washers too. You shouldn't reuse the old ones, they deform when you tighten the bolts.

You also need to perform the dual chamber mod, wherein you squeeze the oil bar shut right in the middle to form two separate chambers, this puts more oil on the front cam lobe. You use two sockets and a vise to do this mod.


[Edit by fastpat on [TIME]1109039219[/TIME]]

[smackmybutter535i]

Anywhere I can get literature on this process? Steve or Brian, if your listening-just E-mail, thanks for the tip Pat.

[Blue Shadow]

Bentley 5-7 talks about the oil spray bar. The crimp in the middle of the bar, I thought was for maintaining pressure (and therefore flow) to the front of the bar as the common failure of the cam is from lack of lubrication of the front lobes. this was a modification made by one US tuner. There has been discussion as to whether it is necessary or not. I have no idea either way on this issue.

Because the oil spray bar banjo bolts (bolts that allow fluid flow through them) do loosen in the M30, they are always checked each valve adjustment and if loose, cleaned properly and loc-tited in place. The replacement units come with loctite on them.

[Threeshifter]

Because the oil spray bar banjo bolts (bolts that allow fluid flow through them) do loosen in the M30, they are always checked each valve adjustment and if loose, cleaned properly and loc-tited in place. The replacement units come with loctite on them.

Is the addition of loc-tite the only design change between the new and old bolt designs?
Is it really necessary to replace the bolts or just make sure they are properly torqued with the use of loc-tite?

[Blue Shadow]

I just clean the bolt and the oil passage adn use loctite.

[fastpat]

[QUOTE="smackmybutter535i"]Anywhere I can get literature on this process? Steve or Brian, if your listening-just E-mail, thanks for the tip Pat.[/QUOTE]

You can go here to see the location of the bolts. There's an aluminum sealing washer under the tube, then one under the bolt head to make the seal mostly oil tight. The compound on the bolt threads is a plastic that partially fills the threads on one side, and works in the oilly environment that the bolt goes in. I have plenty of Loctite in my garage, I bought the bolts anyway. They're quite cheap and the groove in the bolt head makes it easy to see if the change has been made. You meed to buy new washers anyway, might as well get the bolts too.

[Dave_in_VA]

Here is a how-to

http://dave.maisenhelder.com/bmw/osb_fix.htm

[smackmybutter535i]

What is the advantage of the pinched dual chambered oil sprayer bar? Does it increase oil pressure?

[Walt]

I've had the new style back off, too.

A while ago I also drilled and wire tied mine. Hasn't been a problem I've thought about since.

Loose bolts in the rocker assembly are not worth it.