Murfinator wrote:Dogleg: cleaned, fresh fluids, new hardware, AutoSolutions SSK
TIG'd -10 AN fitting for turbo oil return and ceramic coating (same as exhaust and heat shields). Capped the M106 drain on the block and opted for a lower entry point. It's angled back for a straighter shot from the turbo.
The dogleg is pretty weak. You will kill the layshaft bearing in short order.
The oil return fitting should be 90 degrees.
Why, so it has a sharper bend to make on its way back into the oil pan? The dogleg is weak because if I drop the clutch at 6k from a stop then I could twist the input shaft off (if I can find a clutch that will hold and be tractable)?
Please back up your statements. I'm open to suggestions. Thanks
Back up my statements? The weakness of the dogleg CR is widely known. The layshaft bearing failure is common in all dogleg cars.
I have done a few oil returns, a 90 degree turn would be better for fitment but yours will probably work.
It's not helpful to just make an open statement without some reasoning added. Several people have pointed out issues with gearing which may not be suitable in my setup and the fragility of the internals at higher power levels. For these reasons and others I've taken Chris' advice and have kept the 265OD as a back up.
How is that twin-disk clutch performing? I'm still scratching my head with regard to my options in that department.
Murfinator wrote:It's not helpful to just make an open statement without some reasoning added. Several people have pointed out issues with gearing which may not be suitable in my setup and the fragility of the internals at higher power levels. For these reasons and others I've taken Chris' advice and have kept the 265OD as a back up.
.
So if you already knew, why did you demand "back up".
Todd: Is that the one you had cut out to make 7 pucks? Is CM the manufacturer? How about the pressure plate and TOB? I'm looking at nearly 600 ft/lb at the flywheel.
I suppose if the clutch is the weak link (slipping) it could buffer the shock to the transmission but I would like to put the power to the pavement rather than keep replacing burned clutches.
I haven't heard of the Motorsport Sachs pressure plate. I had the Sachs Sport pressure plate that is the OE replacement part for the M5. Any more details?
I know a puck clutch will hold the power but I've also heard the engagement is on/off which means it would make for poor tractability and driving manners. Passengers would need neck braces. I'm looking for the best of both worlds: holds the power, takes abuse (track & spirited driving) and provides a smooth engagement. I've been told that anything short of a twin-disk setup is a waste of time.
Unfortunately, that pressure plate seems to be unobtainium in the states. Good for you guys in Europe, though. Does anyone have a source in the states?
Unfortunately, that pressure plate seems to be unobtainium in the states. Good for you guys in Europe, though. Does anyone have a source in the states?
Thanks for the link. Does anyone know whether this PP would bolt to an E28 M5 flywheel?
I've suffered Sach's 'availability' issues in the past having ordered the Sport PP only wait four months for it to be manufactured and shipped from Germany. This was especially annoying since the car was on jacks with the old slushbox removed and sold.
Why would I not be able to order the linked PP and just wait a few months for it to arrive?
Unfortunately, that pressure plate seems to be unobtainium in the states. Good for you guys in Europe, though. Does anyone have a source in the states?
Paul (mooseheadm5) and George get Spax springs and dampers shipped over, it may be worth asking. It probably wouldn't be fast and almost definitely wouldn't be cheap, but it's probably worth shooting one of them an email to ask if it's possible.
Yesterday afternoon some serious Imagineering eye candy arrived at my front door. Paul Burke worked his considerable magic on a B35 head. All new valve train and hardware, adjustable cam sprocket, ceramic coating on combustion cambers and exhaust ports, custom camshaft and beautifully machined surfaces. This looks like a new and improved cylinder head. Took some pics of a few pieces bolted up finger tight: exhaust manifold, WG, valve cover and distributor cover. Enjoy the juicy goodness of the following pics:
Noticed the lack of a breather on the valve cover. And you and Paul didn't go with rocker arm retainers, what will your redline be?
Not everything is there yet. Rocker arm retainers aren't necessary if everything is set up properly. Besides, they oval the rocker shafts when you torque them down. Originally I thought I'd need them.
-Finish building center console gauge pod with: boost, AFR and EGT or intake charge temp gauges
-Front calipers/rotors - AP Racing or Alcon 4-piston most likely with 12# 328 x 29mm Motorsport rotors attached with some custom lightweight T-6061 aluminum and anodized black rotor hats from Jon (pics below)
-High flow fuel pump installed in tank with larger diameter lines (running E85 in a reconditioned tank)
-Swap electric seat center console with manual
-Weld in 524 battery tray - using TD washer tank
-Assemble Hartge Design C 17 x 8.5 & 17 x 9.5 wheels - back from powder coat and micro-ceramic polish (Speedway Polishing in Santa Ana) on the lips - all new 10-pt OZ hardware ($$$) from Germany
-Figure out which tires and tire size makes sense for what I'm doing with the car
-Larger aluminum radiator and heat exchangers for W>A intercooler
-4-point roll bar - required for Bonneville >125mph classes
This project is going to take another year to complete.
