temperature gauge

[mendozart]

I've been driving my e28 daily now for 2 weeks and really enjoy the car. I've started my maintenance projects on my e34 and having this extra car makes everything alot less stressful. My question is where does the temp gauge needle normally sit while at running temp? My e34 sits right at the middle and I've noticed the e28 sits about a third of the way up. Thanks for your response, Greg.

[Shawn D.]

That's normal. Using both of our data, Rod Paine made this graphic:



HTH,
Shawn

[Blue Shadow]

E28 about 10:30. High noon sitting in traffic on a very hot day. The needles on these older cars are designed to move a lot, showing five degree changes so if your needle is below 1:00 it is fine.

Some people think anything over noon is overheating, but the aux fan will not even come on until the temp is near the red zone, and that is the low speed fan.

A normal temp needle about noon does usually indicate the cooling system is not 100% but still working adequately.

[tsmall07]

my temp gauge isn't working at all. i grounded the connector where is plugs into the sender and it still didn't move. (bently said it should) is there a way to replace the temp gauge mechanism without replacing the entire cluster?

[Brad D.]

my temp gauge isn't working at all. i grounded the connector where is plugs into the sender and it still didn't move. (bently said it should) is there a way to replace the temp gauge mechanism without replacing the entire cluster?

Yes, you can replace the center portion of the cluster by itself, the part including the temp gauge, fuel gauge and SI lights. IIRC there are two different styles, one that plugs directly onto the main board, and the earlier style that has a ribbon cable to attach it to the board. Find the one you need and replacing it is straightforward.This is assuming that it is the gauge that is the problem and not a problem elsewhere on the main cluster board.

[Rich Euro M5]

That's normal. Using both of our data, Rod Paine made this graphic:



HTH,
Shawn

Shawn,

You should put this diagram in the Tech FAQ section.

Same for your diagram of the HVAC system.

Rich

[rmiddendorf]

my temp gauge isn't working at all. i grounded the connector where is plugs into the sender and it still didn't move. (bently said it should) is there a way to replace the temp gauge mechanism without replacing the entire cluster?

Yes, you can replace the center portion of the cluster by itself, the part including the temp gauge, fuel gauge and SI lights. IIRC there are two different styles, one that plugs directly onto the main board, and the earlier style that has a ribbon cable to attach it to the board. Find the one you need and replacing it is straightforward.This is assuming that it is the gauge that is the problem and not a problem elsewhere on the main cluster board.

I now have the same problem that Tyler had, it was working but now its not after an odometer gear replacement. I was very careful when removing the speedometer to replace the gears and the amount of tension between the speedometer and main board is low. I did bend the connectors on the speedometer to create more tension however it didn't help.

The temperature sender is new as of about a month ago and there is about 5.15 volts to ground at the connector to the sensor. I tried grounding the sensor wire to see if the gauge would move and I got no movement.

I actually have three connectors that could fit the plug for the temp gauge in the back of the cluster and two of them are the required color of blue. But I specifically took a mental note that it was the one with three wires that plugged into the cluster, however I tried all three just to check.

I think my next step is to try a known good cluster with a goods temp gauge. Any thoughts? I have the ribbon cable connector one.

P.S. My odometer gears work great!

[1st 5er]

Is this a "thread resurrection" record?

[rmiddendorf]

Is this a "thread resurrection" record?

At least I searched, right?



Actually if I were to bypass the connector and jump the wire as close to the temp gauge as I could would anyone be able to tell me where on the board I would jump it to? I'm not the best at reading schematics but I may try. I've done it before.

And the car is an 86 535i with a build date of 11/85. It has the ribbon cable for the center gauges.

[rmiddendorf]

Well, after probably 10 tries, testing the connector at the sender multiple times, a little intermittent proper function, taking it apart and cleaning the connectors, cleaning some internal connections, and tightening the connectiors I can't get it to work. Throwing in the towel. Time for a known good part.

[CoyoteStarfish]

Well, after probably 10 tries, testing the connector at the sender multiple times, a little intermittent proper function, taking it apart and cleaning the connectors, cleaning some internal connections, and tightening the connectiors I can't get it to work. Throwing in the towel. Time for a known good part.

The as stated up there somewhere, the SI board might be at fault.

You can bypass the SI board if you're feeling gutsy. Or at least the temperature portion of the circuit. Have a look:
http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=94937

Jump pins 1 and 2 on the SI connector to bypass the temperature circuit on the SI board.

[rmiddendorf]

Well, after probably 10 tries, testing the connector at the sender multiple times, a little intermittent proper function, taking it apart and cleaning the connectors, cleaning some internal connections, and tightening the connectiors I can't get it to work. Throwing in the towel. Time for a known good part.

The as stated up there somewhere, the SI board might be at fault.

You can bypass the SI board if you're feeling gutsy. Or at least the temperature portion of the circuit. Have a look:
http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=94937

Jump pins 1 and 2 on the SI connector to bypass the temperature circuit on the SI board.

This seems so money. I'll have to check it out this week.