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Posted: Sep 14, 2011 3:52 AM
by ealoken
Murfinator wrote:
Q-ship wrote:Link above is no good, Sachs won't let you link from their PDF catalog.

http://en.sachsperformance.com/sachs-ra ... 1088-0592/

Unfortunately, that pressure plate seems to be unobtainium in the states. Good for you guys in Europe, though. Does anyone have a source in the states?
Thanks for the link. Does anyone know whether this PP would bolt to an E28 M5 flywheel?

I've suffered Sach's 'availability' issues in the past having ordered the Sport PP only wait four months for it to be manufactured and shipped from Germany. This was especially annoying since the car was on jacks with the old slushbox removed and sold.

Why would I not be able to order the linked PP and just wait a few months for it to arrive?
If you want, i can send it down to you, only 3 weeks deliver time in Norway :)


Nice uppgrade :)

Posted: Sep 26, 2011 3:06 AM
by ealoken
Hi, i just got these parts since im doing a S50 swap in my e28.



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Posted: Sep 26, 2011 9:52 AM
by turbodan
What kind of S50 would require a clutch like that?

Posted: Sep 26, 2011 10:32 AM
by ealoken
the clutch is for s38b36\38 and m30bxx ;)

Posted: Sep 29, 2011 10:30 PM
by Das_Prachtstrasse
That clutch is ricockulous.

Awesome build OP, following with envy.

Posted: Oct 06, 2011 1:49 AM
by ealoken
Das_Prachtstraße wrote:That clutch is ricockulous.

Awesome build OP, following with envy.
overkill?

Posted: Oct 07, 2011 6:44 AM
by HiNick
I'm loving this build, looking forward to see more.

Posted: Oct 07, 2011 6:44 AM
by HiNick
Edit: double post!

Posted: Nov 04, 2011 11:44 PM
by Murfinator
Where's the rings?!?! :brickwall:
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Figured I'd post the eye candy first for the ADDr's.

The motor assembly got off to a shaky start when it was discovered the piston rings walked off sometime during the 11 months they sat in a box at the machine shop. Oh well. Paul has come through with another set and talked me into going gapless. Those are all new Kolbenschmidt (KS) main and rod bearings and bushings.

Since my build has some similarities with Ken's Lucifer's Hammer build I've started getting some excellent insight into various aspects I hadn't fully considered:

Use of log exhaust manifold: a 666 Fabrication tubular manifold would be nice but I'll stick with the iron TCD log for now. Besides, I'd like to break the 500hp threshold prior to an expensive upgrade. It's not as if I haven't spent enough money on this sucker already.

GT-35R Turbo: This may be an ideal setup for a stock M30 but that's not what we're dealing with. May be looking at an upgrade later on. For now, it will have to do. Tuning and road/track time will bear out which direction to go for a more ideal component choice.

Dogleg - Sport Transmission: I have it on good authority that there is little chance of destroying this tranny unless I get in the habit of dropping the clutch in first at 4k RPM's. First gear in the sport transmission is intended as a 'pit' gear. Between the shift pattern and gearing I expect it to function admirably.

Fuel Supply: Lots of great advice has been flowing in lately regarding this aspect of the build. We've hatched some interesting plans which will likely involve: in-tank aftermarket pump, Aeroquip fittings, larger diameter feed & return hardlines, floating pick-up and several modifications to the OE fuel tank. The tank is being disassembled, cleaned and epoxied.

Water>Air Intercooler: In addition to a bigger & better coolant pump for the intercooler I'll be adding a larger reservoir and more efficient heat exchangers. May use the Hartge airdam's brake cooling inlets to force air flow across the heat exchangers.

Engine Management: Rethinking going with an MS-3 setup. Considering a Haltech Platinum Sport 2000 or Electromotive TEC-3R.

Clutch: CNS offers a clutch kit which appears ideal for my purposes:
"- CNS Racing only offers a full face carbon semi-metallic clutch disk which has proven longevity and OEM streetability. This in turn eliminates the chance of premature failure due to clutch disk glazing which occurs in OEM and competitor kits that have an Organic disk lining.

- Identical if not better OEM pedal feel.

- Completely plug and play just like the OEM kit.

- 700+ rear wheel torque capacity. Great streetability and Racing use.

- It is a complete kit including the streetable high clamp pressure plate, full face carbon semi-metallic disc and OEM release bearing."
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Posted: Nov 05, 2011 10:16 AM
by skip535i
:alright: :alright:

I have a friend who swears by Haltec engine mgt....

Posted: Nov 05, 2011 1:47 PM
by Pedi
The enginework is like porn to me.. Very nice!

What brand are those sideskirts that you have on your car? I cannot recall seeing something similar before. The front is Zender, right?

Posted: Nov 05, 2011 2:31 PM
by Jeremy
turbodan wrote:What kind of S50 would require a clutch like that?
One with a snail on the exhaust side would be my guess.

Posted: Nov 05, 2011 3:19 PM
by T_C_D
Michael,

I would caution you to believe the claims of CNS racing. Similar to cheap and turbo, 700rwhp capacity and OEM drivability just do not equate.

Also the GT35R will support your HP goals. The more efficient you make the engine the happier the GT35R will be. It has supported 600+rwhp in efficient 3L engines. You will need to consider a bigger exh housing. .69 or .81

Todd

Posted: Nov 06, 2011 7:15 PM
by marc79euro645
nice build!
I had a dogleg trans,& hated it.
1st is too low,2nd is too close,finally in third you get to stay in gear long enough to feel the boost, of course, final drive ratio plays an important role as well.
I'm running 255/40/17 on 3.45 diff.
I plan on going to 255/45/17 in the future, a little taller as the motor has plenty of torque
good luck
marc

Posted: Nov 06, 2011 9:51 PM
by Murfinator
Pedi wrote:What brand are those sideskirts that you have on your car? I cannot recall seeing something similar before. The front is Zender, right?
The front, rear and side skirts are all Hartge pieces.

I've recently completed refinishing of a set of 17x8.5 ET13 and 17x9.5 ET21 Hartge Design C wheels. The BBS's fell through and in a way I'm glad they did because I feel they are played out. The Hartges are a better match to the other vehicle modifications and I've lusted after a set of Design C's since seeing them in the flesh and the '09 BMWCCA West Coast Concurs on Ron's H5S masterpiece. During the rebuild the barrels, centers and lips were blasted. The barrels and centers were powder coated. The lips were polished and given a micro-ceramic finish at Specialty Coatings in Santa Ana, CA. This finish gives a mirror-like glow yet none of the regular polishing because it doesn't oxidize. The plastic center caps are wet paint that was matched to the centers plus a clear coat. Everything was bolted together with authentic OZ 10-point bolts and nuts from Claus of Felgen-Garage in Germany (http://www.felgen-man.de/english/indexenglish.html). Those bolts are $2.55 EACH! :cry:

Researching tires now. Reconsidering using tires intended for strictly track use on the road. I intend the car to never see rain and heaven forbid snow but you can't predict mother nature. Perhaps some Dunlop Star Specs in 225/45 and 265/40's.
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Posted: Nov 06, 2011 9:54 PM
by Mark 88/M5 Houston
Murfinator wrote:
Pedi wrote:What brand are those sideskirts that you have on your car? I cannot recall seeing something similar before. The front is Zender, right?
The front, rear and side skirts are all Hartge pieces.

I've recently completed refinishing of a set of 17x8.5 ET13 and 17x9.5 ET21 Hartge Design C wheels. The BBS's fell through and in a way I'm glad they did because I feel they are played out. The Hartges are a better match to the other vehicle modifications and I've lusted after a set of Design C's since seeing them in the flesh and the '09 BMWCCA West Coast Concurs on Ron's H5S masterpiece. During the rebuild the barrels, centers and lips were blasted. The barrels and centers were powder coated. The lips were polished and given a micro-ceramic finish at Specialty Coatings in Santa Ana, CA. This finish gives a mirror-like glow yet none of the regular polishing because it doesn't oxidize. The plastic center caps are wet paint that was matched to the centers plus a clear coat. Everything was bolted together with authentic OZ 10-point bolts and nuts from Claus of Felgen-Garage in Germany (http://www.felgen-man.de/english/indexenglish.html). Those bolts are $2.55 EACH! :cry:

Researching tires now. Reconsidering using tires intended for strictly track use on the road. I intend the car to never see rain and heaven forbid snow but you can't predict mother nature. Perhaps some Dunlop Star Specs in 225/45 and 265/40's.
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Beautiful job on the wheels!

Posted: Nov 13, 2011 11:04 PM
by Murfinator
During the past week or so I've done more research and have gotten excellent feedback from professionals and enthusiasts. There has been a re-evaluation of the entire build which has resulted in some mission-creep. Here are the basics:
  • - Fabricate a stainless tubular, equal length, top-mount exhaust manifold and downpipe

    - Air to air intercooler

    - Customize OE fuel tank retaining sending unit and adding a gerotor pump (Holley 12-1400) in-tank in a separate access hatch with a floating pick-up. Supply and return bungs will be welded in the side of the tank and attach to hardlines attaching the fuel tank to an Imagineering fuel rail feeding the 65# low-z injectors. Fueling requirements for the motor require a minimum of 70 gph at 43 psi. The spec'd fuel pump will deliver 122 gph at 43 psi. That gives me 42% overhead capacity.

    - Upsize all fuel lines to -10 AN, 5/8 OD. Pointless to upgrade the pump and try to push the fuel through a straw.
I have two fuel tanks which between them should supply the material for the custom fuel cell. The idea is to remove the lift pump while retaining the sending unit. A second opening will be made in the existing circular indent to the rear of the sending unit which will allow the pump and 100 micron pre-filter to be accessible/serviceable from the trunk without needing to drop the tank. A 10 micron post filter will help keep the injectors functioning. Once the modifications have been made the tank will go back to the radiator shop and sealed inside and out with epoxy.

All fuel lines have been removed.

Posted: Nov 13, 2011 11:10 PM
by Xenocide
Hadn't seen the new wheels yet. Those will most certainly suit the car better.

In for more engine pornography, I mean pictures.

Posted: Nov 13, 2011 11:31 PM
by wkohler
Wheels look great. Let me know if you ever decide to let them go. ;)

In the meantime, I'll sit amongst my played out wheels and watch your build. :D

Posted: Nov 14, 2011 6:24 AM
by Good & Tight
Wheels look amazing.!!! Great choice on going tubular manifold :cool:

Posted: Nov 14, 2011 6:38 AM
by Das_Prachtstrasse
Great wheel choice, the only ones i'd sell my current ones for. Good choice of turbine, you're setup is going to be very similar to my own. Not sold on the dogleg, but it will be interesting to see how it fares. What ratio rear end?

Posted: Nov 20, 2011 8:44 PM
by Murfinator
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Progress: balanced and polished the crank. Installed it along with the rods and pistons. Total Seal rings and new rear main also. All new hardware to include piston oilers. Cylinder head is being flow tested and should be available Monday so we may complete the engine build by turkey day.

Posted: Nov 20, 2011 9:30 PM
by mooseheadm5
:banana:

Posted: Nov 22, 2011 12:45 AM
by Murfinator
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Fitting refurbished MM oil pump. Note the smaller sprocket and shims.

Posted: Nov 22, 2011 7:11 AM
by FirstFives Dictator
Oil restrictors in the block?