MyE28.com

SmokeyJohn102 wrote: Apr 21, 2022 8:20 PM Just ordered mine. This is a wonderful retrofit! Cannot wait to install!

gwb72tii wrote: Apr 21, 2022 8:24 PM e28 kit ordered

Galahad wrote: Apr 21, 2022 8:25 PM ...

1st 5er wrote: May 15, 2022 3:33 PM

Galahad wrote: Apr 21, 2022 8:25 PM ...

Curious if you're coming to Vintage?

1st 5er wrote: May 15, 2022 3:33 PM

Galahad wrote: Apr 21, 2022 8:25 PM ...

Curious if you're coming to Vintage?

Galahad wrote: May 15, 2022 5:32 PM

1st 5er wrote: May 15, 2022 3:33 PM

Galahad wrote: Apr 21, 2022 8:25 PM ...

Curious if you're coming to Vintage?

Not this year - it didn't fit my work schedule unfortunately.

Galahad wrote: May 15, 2022 6:30 PM All single kits are 10% off for Vintage this weekend! Use code Vintage2022 at checkout.

1st 5er wrote: May 15, 2022 6:44 PM

Galahad wrote: May 15, 2022 6:30 PM All single kits are 10% off for Vintage this weekend! Use code Vintage2022 at checkout.

Chowder wrote: May 18, 2022 11:52 AM 𝙶𝚛𝚎𝚎𝚝𝚒𝚗𝚐𝚜, 𝙽𝚎𝚠 𝚝𝚘 𝚝𝚑𝚎 𝚏𝚘𝚛𝚞𝚖 𝚊𝚗𝚍 𝚗𝚎𝚠 𝚝𝚘 𝚝𝚑𝚎 𝚎𝟸𝟾 𝚌𝚑𝚊𝚜𝚒𝚜 (𝚎𝟹𝟶 𝚋𝚘𝚢 𝚕𝚘𝚕). 𝙸 𝚌𝚊𝚖𝚎 𝚊𝚌𝚛𝚘𝚜𝚜 𝚝𝚑𝚒𝚜 𝚝𝚛𝚢𝚒𝚗𝚐 𝚝𝚘 𝚛𝚎𝚌𝚝𝚒𝚏𝚢 𝚜𝚘𝚖𝚎 𝚎𝚕𝚎𝚌𝚝𝚛𝚒𝚌𝚊𝚕 𝚒𝚜𝚜𝚞𝚎𝚜 𝚠𝚒𝚝𝚑 𝚖𝚒𝚗𝚎. 𝙾𝚞𝚝 𝚘𝚏 𝚌𝚞𝚛𝚒𝚘𝚜𝚒𝚝𝚢 𝚠𝚘𝚞𝚕𝚍 𝚝𝚑𝚎𝚛𝚎 𝚋𝚎 𝚊𝚗𝚢𝚘𝚗𝚎 𝚠𝚑𝚘 𝚌𝚊𝚗 𝚒𝚗𝚜𝚝𝚊𝚕𝚕 𝚝𝚑𝚒𝚜 𝚏𝚘𝚛 𝚖𝚎 𝚒𝚗 𝙽𝚘𝚛𝙲𝚊𝚕? 𝚆𝚒𝚛𝚒𝚗𝚐 𝚒𝚜 𝚗𝚘𝚝 𝚖𝚢 𝚜𝚝𝚛𝚘𝚗𝚐𝚜𝚞𝚒𝚝 𝚘𝚗 𝚊𝚗𝚍 𝚍𝚎𝚏 𝚗𝚘𝚝 𝚜𝚘𝚖𝚎𝚝𝚑𝚒𝚗𝚐 𝚊𝚜 𝚖𝚊𝚓𝚘𝚛 𝚊𝚜 𝚊 𝚏𝚞𝚜𝚎𝚋𝚘𝚡 𝚕𝚘𝚕.

𝙰𝚕𝚜𝚘 𝚛𝚎𝚊𝚕𝚕𝚢 𝚌𝚘𝚘𝚕 𝚙𝚛𝚘𝚍𝚞𝚌𝚝 𝚍𝚞𝚍𝚎 𝚞𝚙𝚍𝚊𝚝𝚒𝚗𝚐 𝚊𝚗𝚢𝚝𝚑𝚒𝚗𝚐 𝚘𝚗 𝚝𝚑𝚎𝚜𝚎 𝚌𝚕𝚊𝚜𝚜𝚒𝚌𝚜 𝚍𝚎𝚜𝚎𝚛𝚟𝚎𝚜 𝚊𝚕𝚕 𝚝𝚑𝚎 𝚙𝚛𝚊𝚒𝚜𝚎.

virginpilot wrote: Jun 16, 2022 7:05 PM Wow! That is fantastic! I don’t suppose it would work with an e12 by any chance?

• Compatible with standard / mini / low-profile blade fuses
• Lower total resistance and won't lose spring pressure over time
• LEDs show green for any circuit with power; red if the fuse is missing or blown
• LEDs can be disabled via a switch
• Includes sockets for four spare fuses
• Fits under the stock fuse box cover
• Includes a full set of blade-style fuses

virginpilot wrote: Jun 22, 2022 6:02 PM That’s a fantastic write up, thank you for posting it! I can’t wait until the e12 retro kit is available, I’ll get one straight away for my 528i

virginpilot wrote: Jun 23, 2022 8:13 PM Thank you everyone for your advice! I’ll definitely do that. My e12 is garaged and only goes out in fine weather and at the moment it’s cold and wet here in Melbourne, Australia so I definitely won’t be rushing it! I’ll order one later today. I don’t suppose there are any discount codes? I’m just being cheeky
Cheers Scott.

1. There are more pins underneath the conversion kit than there are on the original setup (at least on my car).
   Make sure to put holes in the plastic fusebox itself and the cardboard guide for these additional pins.
   It's worth noting which pins were the new ones, since they will be unused after reinstallation.
2. ATC fuses don't really seem to offer an 8A fuse, so this kit is populated with 7.5A fuses.
   My high-beams blew the 7.5A fuses shortly after installation, so those have now been changed to 10A fuses. (Possibly related to running to Euro low-beams?)
3. The Rearwindow defroster/sunroof fuse provided is 16A instead of 25A
   I am unsure why this is the case, but I will go back to 25A if(/when) the 16A fuse blows
4. To avoid degrading my fusebox grommets any more when passing through the grounding wire for the LEDs, I cut the cable, passed the wire through the lower (front of car) harness, then soldered it back together.
   I ended up using the fender grounding point for this cable; the bolt fits the ring terminal perfectly.
5. At the end of the day, installation is even more straightforwards than it seems.

TheYoungSir wrote: Jun 30, 2022 1:58 PM I just installed mine - this is an amazing piece of kit. I 100% recommend this to anyone who wants to eliminate a major source of gremlins, glitchy high-current circuits, and any of the other known issues with the torpedo-fuses (everyone).

I always think that there's never enough written down on a topic, so here are my detailed comments on the kit and the installation.

Comments (not complaints, just observations):

1. There are more pins underneath the conversion kit than there are on the original setup (at least on my car).
   Make sure to put holes in the plastic fusebox itself and the cardboard guide for these additional pins.
   It's worth noting which pins were the new ones, since they will be unused after reinstallation.
2. ATC fuses don't really seem to offer an 8A fuse, so this kit is populated with 7.5A fuses.
   My high-beams blew the 7.5A fuses shortly after installation, so those have now been changed to 10A fuses. (Possibly related to running to Euro low-beams?)
3. The Rearwindow defroster/sunroof fuse provided is 16A instead of 25A
   I am unsure why this is the case, but I will go back to 25A if(/when) the 16A fuse blows
4. To avoid degrading my fusebox grommets any more when passing through the grounding wire for the LEDs, I cut the cable, passed the wire through the lower (front of car) harness, then soldered it back together.
   I ended up using the fender grounding point for this cable; the bolt fits the ring terminal perfectly.
5. At the end of the day, installation is even more straightforwards than it seems.

For the lazy installation method, there is enough slack in the two main wiring bundles connected to the fusebox to avoid disconnecting anything.
I un-ziptied the harnesses and moved the cruise control module which gave enough room to rotate the upper-fuse box 90 degrees side to side.
If you're dextrous and take enough photographs, it's possible to re-wire the box in that state and avoid disconnecting anything else (C101, other relays, etc.).
Not sure I'd recommend it, but it went very well for me.

Additionally, my photo-taking strategy was as follows: Take picture of 2-3 connectors showing fusebox underside and wire colors. Disconnect the depicted connectors and loosely ziptie them together. Repeat until all connectors are removed.
Reinstallation is as simple as looking at the last photo, finding the bundle for that picture, connecting those, going to the next photo, then repeating the process until everything is connected.

1. I included a blade pin wherever there was a hole just in case there are slight harness differences between cars. I know the mid-frame casting never changed so this was the safest bet. The plastic shouldn't need holes cut, but the paper likely will.
2. At least one other person running euro lights in a US car has blown the 7.5A fuse, putting a 10A in is fine. (see this discussion about Fuse #5 and this general blog post for more details on why uprating is ok)
3. Some cars had 25A for fuse 13, some had 16A; I decided to spec conservatively. I haven't heard of anyone that has blown that fuse. If it lets go throw a 25A at it. Good catch, nobody else has commented on that.
4. The ground cable is designed to go to the fender ground, not the battery - not entirely sure if that's obvious in the instructions. I've gotten lazy and drilled a hole in the side of the fuse box before, passing it through the grommet is recommended for looks but doesn't matter for functionality.

Galahad wrote: Jun 30, 2022 5:04 PM <snip>

• I included a blade pin wherever there was a hole just in case there are slight harness differences between cars. I know the mid-frame casting never changed so this was the safest bet. The plastic shouldn't need holes cut, but the paper likely will.

<snip>