What did you do to your other car(s) today?

[TSMacNeil]

Freshly built S52 as a plug and play in the e34.



Probably break it in for 5-10k miles and then decide on a power-adder of some kind.

[SPF2006]

Pulled the head unit from my wife's e46 to repair the ever-present loose volume knob problem. Had to tear the entire thing apart, including removing the CD deck and disassembling the faceplate, to replace this one part:



Eight thousand tiny, impossible-to-reach recessed screws later, back in with trim reinstalled and now the knob works like new.

[gadget73]

Finished the stereo upgrade in the Continental. It now has 1986 JBL stuff with a 40 watt per channel amp instead of the 10 per channel amp it had originally. Still fairly pedestrian stuff, but it sounds a whole lot better and I managed to do it without modifying the wire harness any.

[Karl Grau]

Started removing the stupid 'clear bra'. It's not quite as big of a pain as window tint but it's close. I now officially hate clear bra people as much as I hate front window tint people.

use wd40 and a plastic razor blade. I wouldnt have survived removing the bra from my texas lived subaru if i wouldnt have discovered that. heat gun if it helps but its kinda depends if its gonna help or hurt you.

Thanks for the plastic razor blade tip, it is a yuge help. I take back my comment about it not being as bad as window tint. It is ONE MILLION times more of a PITA.
I'm too scared to use WD40 so I ordered some 3M "Specialty Adhesive Remover" that the internet seems to think highly of.

After an hour's work, I had a ~8" x 8" aera done with a bunch of residual adhesive still to remove. The only good news is that the paint is staying put and appears to be in great shape.

[Mike W.]

I'm sure there's an easy way to remove that stuff, but I don't have a clue what it is.

On to my stuff I found out it's not a good idea to wax a car in the rain. Not outside while it's raining, but even after it's been in the garage a day or two. Even with the garage door closed it's still too humid and damp, the wax doesn't want to dry. Seemed like such a good idea, it just wasn't.

[Bonsaibacker]

Started hunting down a fuel delivery issue in the E21. Kjet knowledge is as useful as learning Latin...

[Mike W.]

Started hunting down a fuel delivery issue in the E21. Kjet knowledge is as useful as learning Latin...

Biggest fuel delivery problem I had with them was leaky hoses and loose clamps, all on the suction side. It would run ok once it was running, but if it had been sitting for a few days or longer it seemed impossible to start. Since K jet works off fuel pressure, and I was sucking air into the system, it wasn't happy. Fuel pumps don't pump air very well.

[dsmith]

Started hunting down a fuel delivery issue in the E21. Kjet knowledge is as useful as learning Latin...

I thought I would never have to deal with it again, but then I just bought an old MB. Start with Control, System and Residual pressures. Then air leaks and appendages (AAV, etc). I assume you have the correct fuel pressure tester.

[Bonsaibacker]

Started hunting down a fuel delivery issue in the E21. Kjet knowledge is as useful as learning Latin...

I thought I would never have to deal with it again, but then I just bought an old MB. Start with Control, System and Residual pressures. Then air leaks and appendages (AAV, etc). I assume you have the correct fuel pressure tester.

Thank you both for your suggestions!

Mike-
I have smoke tested and carb sprayed the engine down 20+ times to look for any vacuum leaks (over the course of the past year and a half hunting). I adjusted the WUR and got it running smooth above 3,000, but had intermittent issue below that. As this is the easiest test, I will GLADLY hope I find something this time!

DSmith-
Congrats on the MB purchase- another project???

I follow the Bosch manual to the letter when testing for pressure (using the pressure gauge) and fine tuned the WUR to correct most of my previous issues. This morning's tests will involve hooking up the pressure gauge, testing compression (need to rule out a head issue) and then reviewing the results. Last time it was that the WUR had softened to not generate enough pressure. This time the symptoms came on and progressed faster. Possibly the same issue, but the symptoms are more severe. Thought it was dirty filters, but I have a new filter in stream and after pulling the in tank pump it is clear the filters are not the issue. Fires up fine then coughs and sputters under load and opening the throttle. Finding the issue will be very gratifying.

[Bonsaibacker]

Solved the KJet issue on my E21! It was the fuel relay.

I went to the vintage 2 years ago and my starter went out. Anyone who has done a starter on a M10 knows that this is not a job you tackled without a garage, all of your tools and a couple of days (so that you can kill some bourbon after you are half way through the project).
I had the car towed to a local shop where they replaced the starter and then (with my permission) sorted a vacuum leak they found while in the car (boot on the afm). In the process, they rerouted the amp for the fuel pump and unbeknownst to me, replaced the fuel pump relay. When I picked up the car a month later (they acknowledged that the car wasn't't running correctly, but I could hobble it home- 4 hours) I was frustrated, out some cash, but happy to get the car home.
I tested and worked on the system never looking at the relay- was using the FAQ in the E21 section on bimmerforums and there was a diagram on how to jumper your pumps that showed the plug and not the relay and although I was using the book on how to tune and modify, I never read their angle. Got it running well enough, but decided to go MS and screw the KJet. I was still driving the car and the problem resurfaced. I convinced myself that changing the injection was the wimp way out and that I needed to figure it out- I mean it is a primitive system!!!
Yesterday I dove back into the forum and the book, but approached it from the box this time (unintentionally) and noticed the posts on the relay were numbered differently, so I pulled the plug and look at the bottom and the posts didn't hit all of the wires. I had already set up for the pressure tests, so I resumed them (results were within range) and afterwards popped in a relay from a stashed wire harness. Of course the car fired right up (it ran well during the pressure test too).

Happy day!

5 plug relay that was in the car. Generic non-OEM POS.


Side by side:


Sorry for the long post, but I cannot express how pleased I am to have FINALLY settled the bug and have the garage available for the E28!

[Mike W.]

Solved the KJet issue on my E21! It was the fuel relay.

IIRC there were at least 2 different FP relays depending on the year, and they tended to be problematic. I had to replace at least one and it seems they were rare in the yards when the cars were common there, they got harvested quickly. Glad you got it figured out though!

[vinceg101]

Two weekends ago it was the E39 530i:


Valve Cover & Gasket replacement.
I noticed that wonderful acrid smell of burning oil come wafting into the car and saw the smoke rising up from under the hood every time I stopped at a traffic light (not to mention some pretty concerned looks from the folks next to me).
Pulled the Coils & Plugs and found the spark plug wells for cylinders 1 & 2 kind of full of oil also:


At 185+K miles, it was time again for a new gasket and this time I hedged my bets and replaced the plastic Valve Cover also.

Tomorrow is the Cooling System...

[SPF2006]

We have been noticing a sporadic loss of power on my wife's E46, happens around 2K RPM and it is starting to get worse. Finally set lean codes for both banks and triggered a CEL the other week. Doing some diagnostics and today swapped the the known-working MAF from the X3 onto the car, cleared the codes and test drove. If they come back I will hunt for vacuum leaks and start checking actual fuel delivery.

[Karl Grau]

Removed the tint from the front door windows. I can now see through them.

[1st 5er]

Topped off ElJeepo's fluids and drove that bish to Fredneck Acres.

[Mike W.]

Oil and filter for the Datsun. 5K on the oil change, I'd already put 2+ quarts in and you could barely see it on the end of the dipstick. Put in the magic stuff (Liqui-Moly 5-40, LL-01) I've been using in the 02 touring that cut it's consumption from 2 quarts a change down to nothing. Crossing my fingers although they are apparently known to be heavy drinkers.

[SPF2006]

Oil and filter for the Datsun. 5K on the oil change, I'd already put 2+ quarts in and you could barely see it on the end of the dipstick. Put in the magic stuff (Liqui-Moly 5-40, LL-01) I've been using in the 02 touring that cut it's consumption from 2 quarts a change down to nothing. Crossing my fingers although they are apparently known to be heavy drinkers.

Precisely the problem on the X3 (and that's after dealing with a bunch of leaky seals). Using LiquiMoly at next oil change and will see if it makes any appreciable difference.

[davintosh]

Got a random act of custom body work done to the Lexus at some parking lot in Omaha this weekend, and started in with the insurance company wrangling today.

[Mike W.]

Oil and filter for the Datsun. 5K on the oil change, I'd already put 2+ quarts in and you could barely see it on the end of the dipstick. Put in the magic stuff (Liqui-Moly 5-40, LL-01) I've been using in the 02 touring that cut it's consumption from 2 quarts a change down to nothing. Crossing my fingers although they are apparently known to be heavy drinkers.

Precisely the problem on the X3 (and that's after dealing with a bunch of leaky seals). Using LiquiMoly at next oil change and will see if it makes any appreciable difference.

It worked wonders on mine. I first used some Liqui Moly 5-40 LL-98 and that didn't seem to make much difference. Next I used the LL-01 and that's when the change happened. I don't know if it took a change to free up rings or if the LL01 was the critical factor, but I've got 5K on the current change and the dipstick is down maybe an eighth of an inch from full. First time any engine oil I've used has made any noticeable difference on anything I've owned.

[jca]

Bit of diy body work on my 84 325e. Car has good mechanicals and interior, but the paint was shot when I bought it. Have lost count of the number and shades of rattle can silver I've used to make it more presentable.

[Karl Grau]

Still plugging away at removing the clear bra. It is without doubt the most PITA, tedious job I've ever undertaken. I would say 90% comes off in dime sized pieces and if I get a few quarter sized pieces once in a while, it's cause for celebration.






My guesstimate is that I've only removed around 20% but progress IS progress.

[gadget73]

Sounds like tedious misery.

Oil change and hopefully the power steering leak on the Continental fixed. The one piece of return line that had not been changed is now gone.

[doug]

Finally finished fixing three of the window regulators on my e34 525i, and replaced the thermostat (which had fallen apart). Two had bad guides, and one had a stripped gear, which I could only find a replacement for from one ebay seller in Germany -- maybe I should buy another just in case. Now just gotta replace the AC compressor and it will be good as new, more or less. Also, used some Sylvania UV protection stuff on the headlights on both e39s and my Tacoma. They usually look great after sanding and polishing, but now hopefully they'll stay that way for a while.

[SeattleGuy]

I drove it sloshed some gas around before it started separating and such.... and thought about washing it. I will be ordering two car covers next week. A wise thing to do in Seattle winter.

[jhh925]

Got it rear-ended. Frick. This is the 2012 X5. We bought it to serve a number of specific purposes, including giving us AWD capability for two or three trips up to the snow every year. So, of course, I'd just ordered a new set of tires and got rear-ended five days before we were supposed to head up to Tahoe.

[Mike W.]

Got it rear-ended. Frick. This is the 2012 X5. We bought it to serve a number of specific purposes, including giving us AWD capability for two or three trips up to the snow every year. So, of course, I'd just ordered a new set of tires and got rear-ended five days before we were supposed to head up to Tahoe.

Grrrr. How bad? Still driveable with the hatch still working or just caved in? We took a trip up to Reno years ago in the first E39 with the rear bumper cover held on with a bungee cord. Took forever dicking around with insurance and I didn't want to do anything while it was pending, but did want to use the car. A little tobacco road like, but it worked as an interim measure.

[e28Sean]

Added a bit of bling. Swapped the battery cover on the AMG's key from the default blank one to an AMG-crested one.

[Mike W.]

Swapped out the radiator on the Granddaughters Ford Escape. What a job, I'd rather do a head on an M30 car, including lapping in the valves and replacing the seals.

Had to pull the front bumper cover among other things, the radiator and fans are tucked in there pretty tight, and the damned spring band hose clamps cost me 2 or 3 more hours total than if they'd had screw type. The 5 I had decent access to were no big deal, one was difficult and 2 were an unholy bitch due to lack of working room. Flushing out the cooling system was no easy feat, the A/T cooler inside the radiator had failed, but only allowing ATF into the coolant, not coolant into the tranny, which was a very good thing. I probably had 13-15 hours into it total. It was a big mess though with oil and water mixed together and spread out some. A second time would surely be quicker, but still not fast, dealer wanted over a grand to do it, including a new radiator and I've got to say that wasn't a rip off price. However the dealer also wanted $200 plus for a new oil drain pan since they'd stripped the threads on the drain plug hole. Apparently the $5.50 oversize drain plug I bought at the local chain auto parts store wasn't in their vocabulary, nor apparently was an Helicoil.

Overall it wasn't bad to work on, excepting the aforementioned hose clamps. More work to replace a radiator than I've ever done before, but as I keep reminding myself, they build cars to make money, not to be easily and efficiently worked on years later.

[winmag4582001]

My son brought over his 2015 X5 50i that he just picked up in Albuquerque NM. He was looking at one here in Denver at a dealership that had 4 owners, 50k miles and accidents, he drove down to NM and bought a newer one, one owner, 30k miles, no accidents and it was over $10k cheaper than what he was looking at here. I have no clue how dealers sell vehicles in Denver, way overpriced!
But the X5 is seriously badazz! The v8tt is crazy fast. My son has a slight passion for BMW's. LOL

[url=https://flic.kr/p/2cmS4w2][img]htt ... .jpg[/img]x5 by https://www.flickr.com/photos/166688426@N06/

[SPF2006]

Picked up a pretty solid 1995 740i for daily use, since I am clocking in more miles these days. Sailed through state inspection and pretty much good to go as-is.

Meantime:

Swapped out the radiator on the Granddaughters Ford Escape. What a job, I'd rather do a head on an M30 car, including lapping in the valves and replacing the seals...I probably had 13-15 hours into it total..A second time would surely be quicker, but still not fast, dealer wanted over a grand to do it, including a new radiator and I've got to say that wasn't a rip off price.