You should be able to figure out all the part numbers you need from what is described above, and order them from autohausaz.com, pelicanparts.com or bavauto.com (or even your local dealer if you want to pay dealer prices).BigMac wrote:Is there a place to purchase all the items needed for the Z3 shifter upgrade?
Friend of mine mentioned that when he did it he called up Steve Haygood and he knew everything needed, but apparently he's no longer in business.
E28 Shifter FAQ
Thanks.WVe28 wrote:You should be able to figure out all the part numbers you need from what is described above, and order them from autohausaz.com, pelicanparts.com or bavauto.com (or even your local dealer if you want to pay dealer prices).BigMac wrote:Is there a place to purchase all the items needed for the Z3 shifter upgrade?
Friend of mine mentioned that when he did it he called up Steve Haygood and he knew everything needed, but apparently he's no longer in business.
I actually feel like an idiot right about now. When I originally looked at the diagram I didn't even realize that it specifically told me which parts I should replace.
There's a lot of good info in that thread. Also, do a search on something like shifter rebuild and you'll find a lot of great answers to dumb (and otherwise) questions that I and others have asked about the rebuild process.BigMac wrote:Thanks.WVe28 wrote:You should be able to figure out all the part numbers you need from what is described above, and order them from autohausaz.com, pelicanparts.com or bavauto.com (or even your local dealer if you want to pay dealer prices).BigMac wrote:Is there a place to purchase all the items needed for the Z3 shifter upgrade?
Friend of mine mentioned that when he did it he called up Steve Haygood and he knew everything needed, but apparently he's no longer in business.
I actually feel like an idiot right about now. When I originally looked at the diagram I didn't even realize that it specifically told me which parts I should replace.
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sennasixty8
- Posts: 266
- Joined: Feb 03, 2009 1:12 AM
- Location: SF-East Bay Area
I have a thread that I refer back to when I have a question about mine and it has been alot of help.
Thought this might be a good contribution.
http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=68339&highlight=
Thought this might be a good contribution.
http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=68339&highlight=
Just wanted to give people a heads up that Understeer.com has what appears to be the Z3 shifter in their SSK for $90.
http://www.understeer.com/onlinestore-shifters.shtml
I ordered mine today.
I also added on the Delrin carrier bushings they offer.
$130 shipped seemed like a pretty good deal for everything to me.
And to top it off, I ordered a ZHP weighted shift knob from Tischer BMW for $60 shipped. Another fantastic deal which can be found here:
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/ ... logid=4462
http://www.understeer.com/onlinestore-shifters.shtml
I ordered mine today.
I also added on the Delrin carrier bushings they offer.
$130 shipped seemed like a pretty good deal for everything to me.
And to top it off, I ordered a ZHP weighted shift knob from Tischer BMW for $60 shipped. Another fantastic deal which can be found here:
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/ ... logid=4462
I love my ZHP knob. You can see my photo comparison here.
Understeer SSK installed.
Works great, but I'm curious if others have experienced what I'm experiencing.
On the 4-5 shift something is making contact with something that has to be spinning or something.
When stopped and at idle, there is no vibration in the shifter if I hold it all the way to the right.
When moving or shifting into 5th, there's a vibration that occurs as I slide it into gear. Once in gear, there is no vibration.
Any ideas?
Works great, but I'm curious if others have experienced what I'm experiencing.
On the 4-5 shift something is making contact with something that has to be spinning or something.
When stopped and at idle, there is no vibration in the shifter if I hold it all the way to the right.
When moving or shifting into 5th, there's a vibration that occurs as I slide it into gear. Once in gear, there is no vibration.
Any ideas?
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chunnertyme
- Posts: 7
- Joined: Sep 28, 2009 10:42 PM
- Location: SoCal - Mpls
- Contact:
UUC EVO 3 Short Shifter Installed!
Hello everyone. I've researched short shifters for quite some time and UUC came up a lot. The goal of this post is to help those who have any sort of uncertainty or are just curious of the UUC shifter.
Fortunately, UUC was having an online sale and I just pulled the trigger and ordered one. I personally installed the shifter this past weekend and there's good news and bad news.
First, the bad news: Installation
On the front of the Shifting Arm or Aluminum Carrier there is a clip that needs to be pried up and removed. Once this clip is removed, the aluminum carrier can be removed so the new components can be easily installed that house the shifter. UUC supplies new carrier bushings and a clip so I wasn't worried about destroying this damn clip. This task seems really simple but, it was an absolute bitch to 'try' and remove. I had the car on jack stands and access to it is very difficult. The instructions say pry the clip up with a flat head screwdriver. Then it says, if it doesn't come off, pry, pry again. Well, screw that. I tried for hours to get that damn clip off and was unsuccessful. So, I ended up just leaving it alone. By not removing the aluminum carrier, it makes the installation a lot more challenging because you have to tighten small allen screws into the sides of the carrier. Anyway, I left the dreaded 'clip' alone and ended up getting everything else all installed and tight. So...
The good news: This shifter rocks! It feels stable, solid, and definitely short. I think the throw is only like 4 inches from 3rd to 4th. I have a bit of resistance from 1st to 2nd but, It's all good. The driving experience is completely transformed while the shifter feels a lot more like a modern BMW. UUC components are top-notch and they did their homework. The height is adjustable as well. Visually, i'm trying to get used to the position of the shifter... When I'm in 4th gear with the UUC, it looks like i'm in neutral on my stock setup. I think it'll just take a bit of getting used to. Anyway, very happy with the purchase (I know it's a lot of money but, well worth it!) If there's any more specific questions, please PM me.
Thanks,
Kevin
Fortunately, UUC was having an online sale and I just pulled the trigger and ordered one. I personally installed the shifter this past weekend and there's good news and bad news.
First, the bad news: Installation
On the front of the Shifting Arm or Aluminum Carrier there is a clip that needs to be pried up and removed. Once this clip is removed, the aluminum carrier can be removed so the new components can be easily installed that house the shifter. UUC supplies new carrier bushings and a clip so I wasn't worried about destroying this damn clip. This task seems really simple but, it was an absolute bitch to 'try' and remove. I had the car on jack stands and access to it is very difficult. The instructions say pry the clip up with a flat head screwdriver. Then it says, if it doesn't come off, pry, pry again. Well, screw that. I tried for hours to get that damn clip off and was unsuccessful. So, I ended up just leaving it alone. By not removing the aluminum carrier, it makes the installation a lot more challenging because you have to tighten small allen screws into the sides of the carrier. Anyway, I left the dreaded 'clip' alone and ended up getting everything else all installed and tight. So...
The good news: This shifter rocks! It feels stable, solid, and definitely short. I think the throw is only like 4 inches from 3rd to 4th. I have a bit of resistance from 1st to 2nd but, It's all good. The driving experience is completely transformed while the shifter feels a lot more like a modern BMW. UUC components are top-notch and they did their homework. The height is adjustable as well. Visually, i'm trying to get used to the position of the shifter... When I'm in 4th gear with the UUC, it looks like i'm in neutral on my stock setup. I think it'll just take a bit of getting used to. Anyway, very happy with the purchase (I know it's a lot of money but, well worth it!) If there's any more specific questions, please PM me.
Thanks,
Kevin
I believe my friend that did my SSK install had issues with that clip as well, but he got it out.
A quick update on my SSK...
At this point, I've removed the harmonic balancer for the driveshaft. When the SSK from Understeer was first installed, the selector rod rubbed against the balancer when shifting to 5th. It wouldn't rub once in 5th. I was originally going to bend it like the e30 guys do, but the spot it was rubbing wasn't a spot that could be bent. Since the driveshaft is balanced on it's own, and the balancer is a backup so to speak, it was deemed that it isn't necessary currently. I've had no issues since removing it.
At this point I've also replaced the bearing on the top of the transmission along with the selector rod joint. I added some extra bushings to the selector rod joint to tighten it up a bit as well. Currently, the only part of the shifter linkage I haven't replaced is the selector rod itself, which there is no point in doing.
The shifter now feels very solid and tight, and while I'm still having my 3rd gear hard shift issues, every other gear feels great. I've got MT-90 going in today and am hoping that will help the 3rd gear engagement a bit.
A quick update on my SSK...
At this point, I've removed the harmonic balancer for the driveshaft. When the SSK from Understeer was first installed, the selector rod rubbed against the balancer when shifting to 5th. It wouldn't rub once in 5th. I was originally going to bend it like the e30 guys do, but the spot it was rubbing wasn't a spot that could be bent. Since the driveshaft is balanced on it's own, and the balancer is a backup so to speak, it was deemed that it isn't necessary currently. I've had no issues since removing it.
At this point I've also replaced the bearing on the top of the transmission along with the selector rod joint. I added some extra bushings to the selector rod joint to tighten it up a bit as well. Currently, the only part of the shifter linkage I haven't replaced is the selector rod itself, which there is no point in doing.
The shifter now feels very solid and tight, and while I'm still having my 3rd gear hard shift issues, every other gear feels great. I've got MT-90 going in today and am hoping that will help the 3rd gear engagement a bit.
Just noticed something with the order of parts for the Aluminum console.
The RealOEM diagrams are not consistant, but normally the list of parts is correct.
To connect the selector rod, the parts list and the diagram shown here, show 2 yellow plastic washers at one end, and 2 orings with a steel washer at the other end.
But the photograph, shows yellow washers at both ends without the Orings.
I am a little pissed because I paid a suposedly decent shop to fix up my shifter a couple of years ago, and it was never really any better. Today I am taking it apart, and there was only ONE yellow plastic washer at each end, no o-rings, no washers...... I dont know what they really did for the $$ all the parts look old.
The RealOEM diagrams are not consistant, but normally the list of parts is correct.
To connect the selector rod, the parts list and the diagram shown here, show 2 yellow plastic washers at one end, and 2 orings with a steel washer at the other end.
But the photograph, shows yellow washers at both ends without the Orings.
I am a little pissed because I paid a suposedly decent shop to fix up my shifter a couple of years ago, and it was never really any better. Today I am taking it apart, and there was only ONE yellow plastic washer at each end, no o-rings, no washers...... I dont know what they really did for the $$ all the parts look old.
Selector rod
I have used the M/Z3 shifter on 2 cars now, and really like it.
One thing I do is shorten a new selector rod to move the shift handle back about an inch and a half. You can apply the ratios above to determine how much to take out. The weld can be sloppy and even a bit crooked. Perhaps there is a OEM rod that is the right length.
One thing I do is shorten a new selector rod to move the shift handle back about an inch and a half. You can apply the ratios above to determine how much to take out. The weld can be sloppy and even a bit crooked. Perhaps there is a OEM rod that is the right length.
I buy from this site:
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/ ... eid=214760
Pelican, unfortunately, is one of the highest around.
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/ ... eid=214760
Pelican, unfortunately, is one of the highest around.
Tyler: Are you talking about the dowel pin #17 in this diagram?tsmall07 wrote:Has anyone mentioned that part #17 should be replaced with the metal pin found in the 8-series cars? That adds a little longevity to the linkage.
That would be #11 in this diagram from the e31...
If so, that's part #23411466134, which cross-references to the same part on the e28 (and what looks to be every other model sporting a manual trans..)
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mooseheadm5
- Beamter
- Posts: 23035
- Joined: Apr 08, 2009 10:30 PM
- Location: Charlottesville, VA
- Contact:
Jody Goodwill used some skateboard part. I don't know enough about skateboards to recall what part, though.derrith wrote:I've found with my sheet metal consoles that if you use one of the rubber bushings that hold the airbox (part number 13711259818) instead of part number 15 (stop buffer) it is much easier to install and far less likely to fail than that silly little rubber piece. I've also used transmission mounts if I've had one lying around. They work well.Big Bronze Rim wrote:I have added clarification to the sheet metal console info as well as added some of the information from Ron Stygar's excellent research on shift levers.
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abdielhiram
- Posts: 316
- Joined: Oct 30, 2011 2:05 PM
- Location: Costa Rica
Quick question on this topic...
I am trying to get the gear linkage back to a normal state, as is real loose.. however while looking at the diagram posted here, i like to make sure this also applies to an Alpina B9 3.5s from Europe...
I am entering the VIN into Real OEM and matches with the exact diagram posted here, but while browsing trough the part numbers realoem says the parts listed are not compatible with the VIN given...
any ideas?
Thanks,
Abdiel
I am trying to get the gear linkage back to a normal state, as is real loose.. however while looking at the diagram posted here, i like to make sure this also applies to an Alpina B9 3.5s from Europe...
I am entering the VIN into Real OEM and matches with the exact diagram posted here, but while browsing trough the part numbers realoem says the parts listed are not compatible with the VIN given...
any ideas?
Thanks,
Abdiel