M30B35 Swap FAQ

[1st 5er]

High-speed, low-drag way of mounting the 179 ECU in an E28:

That's purdy.

[ducklordthefirst]

Hi there,due to photobucket I can’t see the last two pics in your original post,any chance you could pm them to me please?
I’ve swapped my B34 to motronic 1.3 and have a few problems I’m trying to sort out,cheers

[ducklordthefirst]

Hi folks from across the pond
I’m looking for a bit of help with this swap
I have a M30B34 and have swapped to motronic 1.3,but have used a manual loom and have a switchable slush box!
To solve this I’ve now got a high line loom from an auto,I also have the 6 pin TPS to put on
My question is how to mate my original E28 box loom to my motronic 1.3 loom?
There are 12 pins on the engine loom and only 10 on my box loom
The car is running at the mo with the manual loom,albeit stuck in limp mode as the engine and box aren’t communicating
I also have no rev counter or temp gauge although this seems to have been covered in the post somewhere
Any help with this is much appreciated

Cheers,Jason

/\_/\

[BuzzBomb]

Hey, i remember you from the 5er UK board. You're doing it wrong. I'll help you by PM.

[euroshark90]

I have a b35 harness from an e32 I'm converting to a 1985 635csi. Im making an adapter from the round x20 connector to the sqaure c101 connector to the fuse box. As I studied the ETM I found only 4 wires match the plug which was:
Alternator pin 1
Ignition coil pin 7
Tachometer pin 9
Start pin 18

Do i need any other wires to make the b35 swap run? Ive been sitting here for hours pulling my hair out!

[BuzzBomb]

I have a b35 harness from an e32 I'm converting to a 1985 635csi. Im making an adapter from the round x20 connector to the sqaure c101 connector to the fuse box. As I studied the ETM I found only 4 wires match the plug which was:
Alternator pin 1
Ignition coil pin 7
Tachometer pin 9
Start pin 18

Do i need any other wires to make the b35 swap run? Ive been sitting here for hours pulling my hair out!

You need to connect at the fusebox side:
Alternator (BL)
Coil (Both larger and smaller GN from the b35 harness to the GN)
Tach (Easier to intercept the tach-SW and econometer-WS/SW at the wiring as it enters the DME plug)
Starter trigger (SW/GE)
Oil pressure (GN/BN)
Fuel pump (GN/VI)
Water temp (BN/WS)
Oil level (BL/RD)
Most of the b35 wires are the same color, I think the temp sender on the b35 side is stripped with VI sometimes, you'll have to check.

[euroshark90]

Are these connections on the engine side of the harness, or the other side of the x20 connector going to the fuse box?

[BuzzBomb]

Are these connections on the engine side of the harness, or the other side of the x20 connector going to the fuse box?

The latter.

[josepilove]

I've re-hosted the ever-valuable diagram that Brad D. made that isn't showing up on the first page.

[Smileyboy]

Wow. So much good info in this thread.

I need a little clarification.

if I get all the items needed for a conversion to Motronic 1.3 and install the wiring now. Would that make the install of the actual motor less time consuming when I decide to install the B35?

Also, any recommendations for someone in Portland, OR that has done a swap like this? I’d like to do as much of the install myself and it seems the few shops I’ve called don’t want to work on an e28. Thanks.

[BuzzBomb]

Wow. So much good info in this thread.

I need a little clarification.

if I get all the items needed for a conversion to Motronic 1.3 and install the wiring now. Would that make the install of the actual motor less time consuming when I decide to install the B35?

Also, any recommendations for someone in Portland, OR that has done a swap like this? I’d like to do as much of the install myself and it seems the few shops I’ve called don’t want to work on an e28. Thanks.

There is no benefit to installing the harnes ahead of the engine, in fact it’s more work. The harness routes between the head and intake manifold (done correctly) and that is far easier done before installing the engine. If you want to do something ahead of time, make the small adapter harness between the fuse box and the 1.3 harness, and make any changes to the 1.3 harness necessary to connect to the battery and adapter harness, depending on what chassis version your harness came from.

[Smileyboy]

Wow. So much good info in this thread.

I need a little clarification.

if I get all the items needed for a conversion to Motronic 1.3 and install the wiring now. Would that make the install of the actual motor less time consuming when I decide to install the B35?

Also, any recommendations for someone in Portland, OR that has done a swap like this? I’d like to do as much of the install myself and it seems the few shops I’ve called don’t want to work on an e28. Thanks.

There is no benefit to installing the harnes ahead of the engine, in fact it’s more work. The harness routes between the head and intake manifold (done correctly) and that is far easier done before installing the engine. If you want to do something ahead of time, make the small adapter harness between the fuse box and the 1.3 harness, and make any changes to the 1.3 harness necessary to connect to the battery and adapter harness, depending on what chassis version your harness came from.

Makes sense. Thank you for explaining that.

Hopefully I’ll be able to get the engine in the next week or 2 and get started on the rebuild.

[Nick1984]

This toppic helped me alot for fitting The E32 3.5 Alpina engine in my E28.
Thanks for all the helpful posts here!!
Regars Nick

[Smileyboy]

Dumb question... I’d like to find out what I should be looking for as far as picking an engine...
I seem to keep finding engines at the car recyclers anywhere from $300-800. Some with 250k-132 miles stated.
Is there a more informative way of finding the engine history instead of asking at the places that trying to convince me their products are top notch?

I’m planning for the worst, as in a full rebuild. I’d love to get one with 132k, reseal it and put it in.

I’ve downloaded the Sreadsheet to help me sort out parts and such.

Thanks in advance for the answers.

[BuzzBomb]

Dumb question... I’d like to find out what I should be looking for as far as picking an engine...
I seem to keep finding engines at the car recyclers anywhere from $300-800. Some with 250k-132 miles stated.
Is there a more informative way of finding the engine history instead of asking at the places that trying to convince me their products are top notch?

I’m planning for the worst, as in a full rebuild. I’d love to get one with 132k, reseal it and put it in.

I’ve downloaded the Sreadsheet to help me sort out parts and such.

Thanks in advance for the answers.

Regardless of claimed mileage, pull spark plugs, pull the valve cover. Catastrophic failure is rare, so everything you need to know will be told by what you see there. If both are clean enough, you might be able to run it as is. If it looks neglected, keep looking or assume that you’ll spend some cash to go through it. If it was well cared for, 250k still has plenty of life left in it. Also, if you do end up getting something that has to be gone through, use your old engine as a parts donor. You’ll need things like your old oil pan and oil pump pickup, all the ancillary bracketry, and preferably your old block. That way you won’t have to deal with adapter plates for the engine mounts.

[Smileyboy]

Dumb question... I’d like to find out what I should be looking for as far as picking an engine...
I seem to keep finding engines at the car recyclers anywhere from $300-800. Some with 250k-132 miles stated.
Is there a more informative way of finding the engine history instead of asking at the places that trying to convince me their products are top notch?

I’m planning for the worst, as in a full rebuild. I’d love to get one with 132k, reseal it and put it in.

I’ve downloaded the Sreadsheet to help me sort out parts and such.

Thanks in advance for the answers.

Regardless of claimed mileage, pull spark plugs, pull the valve cover. Catastrophic failure is rare, so everything you need to know will be told by what you see there. If both are clean enough, you might be able to run it as is. If it looks neglected, keep looking or assume that you’ll spend some cash to go through it. If it was well cared for, 250k still has plenty of life left in it. Also, if you do end up getting something that has to be gone through, use your old engine as a parts donor. You’ll need things like your old oil pan and oil pump pickup, all the ancillary bracketry, and preferably your old block. That way you won’t have to deal with adapter plates for the engine mounts.

Thank you so much!!!

[Smileyboy]

Sorry If I missed this earlier. But is there a recommended venders list? Looking to buy seals, oil pump and chain for my motor refresh. Thanks

[wickz80]

Hey Brad, thanks for putting this thread together.

I picked up a 1988 735i as a donor car, and I'd like to confirm it has the old AND new style engine mounts.

Build date of 06/1987.

[BuzzBomb]

I'd like to confirm it has the old AND new style engine mounts.

Build date of 06/1987.

Yes, it does. Lucky you.

[Mdreamer]

All,

Is there a vendor in the U.S. that makes mounting arms for this swap? The only ones I have been able to find are from e28 Goodies.

[6finger]

Link below for Koala Motorsports.. their plates let you move your mounts. I used .25 inch hot rolled steel to make my own, cost $12.00 for a local vendors remnants.

Good luck!

http://www.bmw-stuff.com/proddetail.asp?prod=m30r

[6finger]

Anyone know where I should connect the speed and location sensors from the manual transmission's bell housing on my new e34 wire loom?

Thanks!

[6finger]

Looks very nice! did your harness have a couple relays on it?

[6finger]

IMG_20190920_103402 by Tom Wolfinger, on Flickr

IMG_20190920_103249 by Tom Wolfinger, on Flickr

IMG_20190920_103142 by Tom Wolfinger, on Flickr

IMG_20190920_103057 by Tom Wolfinger, on Flickr

IMG_20190920_102755 by Tom Wolfinger, on Flickr

IMG_20190920_102658 by Tom Wolfinger, on Flickr

Above are the areas I would like to address before I start splicing things.. Thanks!!

This list should clear up just about every question of which parts you need, after using realoem and autohausaz for picture references, there should be no more excuses not to know which parts you need.



Air box-you can use the factory elbow going from the air flow meter, and the factory air box with valve cover support from the e28 535i if you do not wish to use the longer m30b35 air box (part number13711707727) and elbow (part number 13711707767) from the air flow meter to air box.
You can still use the boot that goes from the air box to the headlamp ducting (part number 12311710514) but you must cut it, and make a bracket for the air box to mount to the inner fender.

Air flow meter elbow-from m30b35 (part number 13711707767)

Air flow meter-same as the m30b34 air flow meter (part number 0280203027)

Air flow meter rubber isolators-m30b35 only (part number (13621707790) and clips.

Intake boot-m30b35 intake boot, non EML (part number 13541722847)

Valve cover breather hose-same as the m30b34 (part number 11151276485) with nipple on the side

Valve cover breather hose to intake bellows plastic elbow-same as m30b34 (part number13541272473)

Idle control valve-same as m30b34 (part number 0280140509)

Idle control valve vacuum tube-same as m30b34 (part number 13411710793). Use only the BMW brand hose, and not the contitech brand aftermarket hose since it is not reinforced.

Throttle body-the m30b35 throttle body (part number 13541726609) is the same as the m30b34 throttle body, the only difference is that there is

no nipple on the bottom of the throttle body. You cannot use the fly-by-wire throttle body from cars with EML.

Throttle position switch-if using an automatic m30b35 harness, use 6 pin variable TPS (part number 0280120406) from E34/E32, if using a manual harness, use m30b34 manual TPS or manual E34 TPS (part number 0280120302).

Intake manifold-from any m30b35 (part number11611717405), there are a few differences however, one being the big vacuum port for a brake booster vacuum hose, you will need to cap that off if the car you are putting it into was a 535i, and leave it alone for a 528e that runs with a vacuum booster. Also there were manifolds with one less vacuum nipple on the bottom, one goes to the valve cover breather tube, cabin temp sensor, fuel pressure regulator, the medium sized one is the purge valve, and big one is idle control valve.

Valve cover-the m30 valve covers are interchangeable but the b35 one (part number11121710974) is cleaned up quite a bit and has a designated bracket for the air flow meter.

Cylinder head-use any m30b35 cylinder head (part number 11121707150), but use the water neck at the back of the head (part number 11121253208) from the m30b34 instead of the block off cap.

Block-any m30b35 bottom end (part number 11111720650), preferrably one from a E24 with the b35, since they have the dual mounting bosses, or the earlier E32/E34 with the dual mounting bosses. Its not that big of a deal because Koala makes the mounts you need, and affordable too.
http://www.koalamotorsport.com/proddetail.asp?prod=m30l
http://www.koalamotorsport.com/proddetail.asp?prod=m30r

Oil pan-from b35 (part number 11131708345), since both b34 (part number 11131278878) and b35 pans fit, no reason to change them, unless you want to use the b34 alternator and power steering pump with mounting bracket. If you do want to change the pan to the m30b34 pan, then you will need the b34 oil pump pickup (part number 11411286468) instead of the m30b35's pump (part number 11411317100)

Motor mount arms-all from m30b34 (part number 11811175990 and 11811175591).

Motor mounts-m30b34 only (part number 11811175735)

Fuel injectors-same bosch19 lb/hr as m30b34 (part number 13641726988) or m30b35 lucas (part number 13641730292)

Fuel rail-m30b35 only (part number 13531719916). The FPR side uses a molded hose (part number 13311748689) which you must use or you have a kinked hose, you can just use a longer BMW line instead if you choose.

Fuel pressure regulator-same as m30b34, 3.0 bar FPR (part number 13531722040)

Purge valve-m30b35 only valve (part number 13901726705) that goes between the charcoal canister and intake manifold vacuum lines for emissions, which is held on by a rubber mount (part number 13901717292) and bracket (part number 13901717023).

Exhaust-you can use the stock e28 b35 exhaust, but the better choice is the b35 manifolds (part number 11621289275) and downpipes (part number 18301437358) which will need to be cut and welded at a different angle to clear the frame and sway bar. You can slip the b35 exhaust over the b34 exhaust once you get it under the car and bolted up.

Starter-the small case m30b35starter (part number 12411720664)is about half the weight of the large case m30b34 starter (part number 12411272150) and has the proper terminal connector for the 1.3 harness. The b34 starter will work, but the b35 starter is much easier to take out since you have a straight shot to the bolts.

Flywheel-use a single mass 19 lb 535i flywheel (part number 11221289244), or the 14 lb 533i/M5 flywheel (part number 11221271463)

Clutch-use e28 535i from sachs (part number 1861931033)

Pressure plate-use e28 535i from sachs (part number 3082147032)

Throwout bearing-use e28 535i from sachs (part number 3151231031)

Ignition wires-from m30b35 (part number 12121722253)

Ignition coil-you can use the m30b34/early m30b35 coil (part number 12131286087), but the m30b35 coil (part number 12131742925) is better

Distributor rotor-same as m30b34 (part number 12111734110)

Distributor cap-same as m30b34 (part number 12111725070)

Distributor dust shield-same as m30b34 (part number 12111288167)

Oxygen sensor-m30b35 oxygen sensor (part number 11781720537) if using the m30b35 wiring harness, super eta oxygen sensor (part number

11781714772) with an extension if using a super eta wiring harness.

Wiring harness-you can use a super eta harness (part number 12511714294) and just extend the 4 AFM wires, 3 TPS wires, 3 ICV wires, and oil pressure switch wire. The other option is to use a m30b35 1.3 harness (part number 12511724670) and use an adapter If you use the super eta harness, you must use the m30b34 oil level sender (part number 12611276183) since the m30b35's sender (part number 11131708345) uses a different connector.

ECU-179 dme from E32 and E34 (part number 12141748258)

Cooling hoses-use every hose from the e28 535i:
coolant hose: water pump to thermostat housing (part number 11531266459)
coolant hose: thermostat housing to water tee (part number 11531274210)
upper radiator hose (part number 11531276647)
lower radiator hose (part number 11531289859)
expansion tank hose to tee (part number 11531278529)
coolant hose: expansion tank breather (part number 17121119294)
coolant hose: breather hoe from expansion tank to breather pipe (part number 17121712136)
heater hose: inlet from cylinder head/heater core to heater valve (part number 64211363470)
heater hose: inlet from cylinder head to heater valve (part number 64211368714)
heater hose: outlet from heater core to thermostat housing/water tee (part number 64211368715

Water tee: distribution tee for cooling system, same as m30b34 (part number 11531272866)

Water pump: same as m30b34 (part number 11519070761)

Water pump pulley: m30b34 and later m30b35 share the same pulley (part number 11511706781) the early pulley (part number 11511271423) on the b35 is 14mm bigger

Thermostat housing-same as m30b34 (part number 11531268650 and 11531710959)

Thermostat-80C thermostat, same as m30b34 (part number 11531713040)

Fan clutch-use m30b34 only (part number 11521740962)

Clutch driven fan-use m30b34 only (part number 11521271846)

Engine temperature sensor to ECU-same as m30b34 (part number 13621709966)

Temperature sender to cluster-use 88 528e(part number 12621710512 )

Harmonic balancer-m30b35 only (part number 11231722723)

Crank trigger bracket-m30b35 only (part number 11141717127)

Crank trigger sensor-from m30b35 (part number 12141720853)

Crankshaft pulley-see accessories below

AC, power steering, and alternator-You can use your m30b34 power steering pump (part number 32411133969), 90A alternator (part number 12311466087), and AC compressor if you use the m30b34 mounting brackets (part number 12311708343 and 64521284953), adjusters, crankshaft pulley (part number 11211258274), and power steering belt (part number ), alternator belt (part number 11221706788), and AC belt (part number 64521711056).
You can use the m30b35 power steering pump (part number 32411141058), 140A alternator (part number 12311735706), AC compressor, mounting brackets (part number 12311707194 and 64521284953), adjusters, crankshaft pulley (part number 11231716270), and power steering belt (part number 11231709636), alternator belt (part number 11231706668), AC belt (part number 64521722371) from the m30b35, but you will have to do something to the lines for the AC, everything else will work and bolt up however.

[SlickDizzy]

Your Motronic 1.0 flywheel sensors are not used on Motronic 1.3. They will not plug in anywhere. Remove them. That is one of the best parts about M1.3, ditching those failure-prone things.

2-wire connector in general vicinity of alternator is for the oil level sensor, IIRC. The B35 one is different and you will want to use it.

Round 4-wire twist-lock connector is for oxygen sensor. You will need a B35 oxygen sensor. It is different. What you say is your oil level sensor wiring is NOT your oil level sensor wiring, that looks like the sub-harness connector that meets the main harness. Other connector in pic is possibly for emissions purge valve which is in same area.

Eyelet connectors are not all grounds. You will have 2 grounds and the other 2 wires are for ignition coil.