E28 Alpina B7 Turbo/1 #0083
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Eric helped me pull the auxiliary tank out of the trunk. Not sure how you'd do it alone since they used a bolt and nut and it comes in front of the spare tire well, so he was very helpful.
Anyway, tonight, I finished replacing all of the fuel hoses. I installed a new fuel filter (the one in the car has a BMW roundel and was made in W. Germany, so you know it's good...) and used a couple of barbed fittings and an NPT coupler to join the 12mm hose and the 8mm hose since I'll only be using a single 255lph pump in the tank. That said, I cut everything to the correct lengths (which is what I do). That will help if I decide to add an external pump (which I have). The pump/filter bracket wasn't the prettiest piece and the bolt sheared off. I was planning to use the one from my 535is anyway, as it's in excellent condition.
Once that was squared away, I moved up front. The fuel rail is backwards from a normal M30 car. Supply hose goes to the front and the return comes off the rear. The FPR is located next to the firewall as well. Both hoses had pulse dampers in them. I decided to delete them - at least for the time being. Nothing is being thrown out - not even the old fuel hose. Replacing the CSV hose in an M30 car is a chore, but this one is just a PITA. The placement of the CSV at the top rear of the manifold makes the job appear easy, but given you cannot see the clamp on the fuel rail, it's a real pain. I ended up using a combination of wobble extensions, a 3/8" to 1/4" adapter and a deep 6mm socket to undo the nut by hand. Once I figured all of that out, it wasn't bad. Damn good thing I changed that hose, though. It had already ruptured. Everything else looked and felt pretty good - just a bit stiff, but no signs of cracking, etc.
I also cut off the bolt added to hang the US Strömung rear muffler, so that's no longer an issue.
Tomorrow, I am going to pick up the pieces (without the Average White Band) I need to replicate the three pads that go atop the fuel tank and I'll hopefully get that back into the car.
Anyway, tonight, I finished replacing all of the fuel hoses. I installed a new fuel filter (the one in the car has a BMW roundel and was made in W. Germany, so you know it's good...) and used a couple of barbed fittings and an NPT coupler to join the 12mm hose and the 8mm hose since I'll only be using a single 255lph pump in the tank. That said, I cut everything to the correct lengths (which is what I do). That will help if I decide to add an external pump (which I have). The pump/filter bracket wasn't the prettiest piece and the bolt sheared off. I was planning to use the one from my 535is anyway, as it's in excellent condition.
Once that was squared away, I moved up front. The fuel rail is backwards from a normal M30 car. Supply hose goes to the front and the return comes off the rear. The FPR is located next to the firewall as well. Both hoses had pulse dampers in them. I decided to delete them - at least for the time being. Nothing is being thrown out - not even the old fuel hose. Replacing the CSV hose in an M30 car is a chore, but this one is just a PITA. The placement of the CSV at the top rear of the manifold makes the job appear easy, but given you cannot see the clamp on the fuel rail, it's a real pain. I ended up using a combination of wobble extensions, a 3/8" to 1/4" adapter and a deep 6mm socket to undo the nut by hand. Once I figured all of that out, it wasn't bad. Damn good thing I changed that hose, though. It had already ruptured. Everything else looked and felt pretty good - just a bit stiff, but no signs of cracking, etc.
I also cut off the bolt added to hang the US Strömung rear muffler, so that's no longer an issue.
Tomorrow, I am going to pick up the pieces (without the Average White Band) I need to replicate the three pads that go atop the fuel tank and I'll hopefully get that back into the car.
Main tank is back in. Took longer to get it back in than to get it out. I covered all of the vulnerable areas with masking tape - multiple layers in a couple spots, but still managed to nick it in one spot. All vapor hoses replaced, etc. The auxiliary tank is ready to be secured, but I have to put the carpeting back in the trunk first. I also thought I had to go find a hose to go between the two tanks since it was pretty stiff, but turns out I got a nice, "fresh" one with the car.
Just waiting on the pump assembly and we should be good to go. The pump assembly should be installed before the aux tank gets secured just because it really limits access to the access hole in the trunk.
Just waiting on the pump assembly and we should be good to go. The pump assembly should be installed before the aux tank gets secured just because it really limits access to the access hole in the trunk.
I bought a TRE 255lph pump based upon reviews by other members here and a few other things I've read. It appears very similar to the Walbro. The issue that I ran into is that the inlet on the pickup is 12mm OD and the outlet on the pump is 8mm OD. It appears the pump is more suited to installation on an E30 pickup, though some modification is still required for that. Paul (mooseheadm5) is fast-approaching a solution for the issues and I look forward to putting his idea in practice.
Yeah, he held a wrench to keep a bolt from turning while he was over looking at the car back in July or something. I guess it qualifies as helping "with the fuel issue." That has been the extent of his involvement in the project, so I guess his hand should be okay.SD45T-2 wrote:cddallara wrote:Thanks for the updates!
Make sure Eric has gloves on, or a big ass bandage or something, he needs to heal up and get back to his real job!
Wednesday, I did a basic clean under the hood - just a few areas I could get to. Vacuumed the larger debris, and that turned into removing the hood insulation. Vacuumed it off the hood, then used 3M adhesive remover to remove the adhesive. Huge difference when you open the hood and I won't have chunks of foam falling on the motor all the time. Makes it a bit more pleasant working under there, that's for sure.
Yesterday, I washed it, did my initial cleaning on the interior, wiped a few things down under the hood and put some rejuvenating oil on the steering wheel.
Today, I stole the battery out of the white E12 and decided to see if the motor would crank. It turns quickly and smoothly. Looking forward to getting the fuel pump in, some fuel in the tank and getting this thing started!
Today, I stole the battery out of the white E12 and decided to see if the motor would crank. It turns quickly and smoothly. Looking forward to getting the fuel pump in, some fuel in the tank and getting this thing started!
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Sorry for the lack of detail in the post. I was just sitting down to eat dinner.
Friday morning, my case of Knecht AG164 air filters showed up. I've got enough for the next 40 years. NOS. I changed that out. The filter is for a 924 Turbo. I guess stock air filters are so popular with those guys that they don't make them any longer.
Anyway, yesterday morning my fuel pump assembly arrived from Moosehead Engineering. I had to make a couple adjustments to the pump attachmentto get it through the hole in the tank which is considerably smaller than the US one for some reason. He did a fantastic job on it. We ended up going with a Walbro GSS-340 instead of the TRE pump.
I discovered I had routed the hoses incorrectly (I didn't have the pickup in front of me when I did that). Alpina put a funky bend and added some material to the return line, so I guess it's a good thing I decided to reuse this piece. So, I dropped the tank enough to get the hose through from one side of the elbow to the other. I was hoping to not have to put the car in the air again, but whatever.
I got that straightened out and ran the pump. At first, there wasn't anything getting up to the rail in the supply line, so I swapped stuff around in the rear. That pressurized the return. Swapped them back and it worked. Weird. So, knowing I had fuel, I pulled the relay and cranked the car for about 10-15 seconds. Pulled the oil cap and oil was getting to the top, so I put the relays back in and fired it up. It took a while of feathering the throttle to keep it running, but after a few seconds, it settled into a nice, smooth 750rpm idle. I let it run for a few minutes in the driveway, bled the cooling system (I had to remove the bottle to change the fuel hoses). Then, I decided it was time to drive it. I took it easy. Knob was all the way on the lowest setting. It still did a good job moving, though I didn't want to get on the boost. I will gradually work on that once the car is sorted mechanically. I just wanted to make sure things functioned. I have to say it sounded pretty cool without the rear muffler. Just two gigantic cats(one for each pipe - which will be removed) and a resonator.
I will post up a few photos later now that the car is a bit cleaner and the trunk is back together.
Friday morning, my case of Knecht AG164 air filters showed up. I've got enough for the next 40 years. NOS. I changed that out. The filter is for a 924 Turbo. I guess stock air filters are so popular with those guys that they don't make them any longer.
Anyway, yesterday morning my fuel pump assembly arrived from Moosehead Engineering. I had to make a couple adjustments to the pump attachmentto get it through the hole in the tank which is considerably smaller than the US one for some reason. He did a fantastic job on it. We ended up going with a Walbro GSS-340 instead of the TRE pump.
I discovered I had routed the hoses incorrectly (I didn't have the pickup in front of me when I did that). Alpina put a funky bend and added some material to the return line, so I guess it's a good thing I decided to reuse this piece. So, I dropped the tank enough to get the hose through from one side of the elbow to the other. I was hoping to not have to put the car in the air again, but whatever.
I got that straightened out and ran the pump. At first, there wasn't anything getting up to the rail in the supply line, so I swapped stuff around in the rear. That pressurized the return. Swapped them back and it worked. Weird. So, knowing I had fuel, I pulled the relay and cranked the car for about 10-15 seconds. Pulled the oil cap and oil was getting to the top, so I put the relays back in and fired it up. It took a while of feathering the throttle to keep it running, but after a few seconds, it settled into a nice, smooth 750rpm idle. I let it run for a few minutes in the driveway, bled the cooling system (I had to remove the bottle to change the fuel hoses). Then, I decided it was time to drive it. I took it easy. Knob was all the way on the lowest setting. It still did a good job moving, though I didn't want to get on the boost. I will gradually work on that once the car is sorted mechanically. I just wanted to make sure things functioned. I have to say it sounded pretty cool without the rear muffler. Just two gigantic cats(one for each pipe - which will be removed) and a resonator.
I will post up a few photos later now that the car is a bit cleaner and the trunk is back together.
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I am not quite with you.wkohler wrote: I have to say it sounded pretty cool without the rear muffler. Just two gigantic cats(one for each pipe - which will be removed) and a resonator.
Are you sure they are Cats, and not just ordinary silencers? As you have the #083, you were not supposed to have catalysts - they did not come until the TurboKat-edition from serial #237...
Anyway, I am glad you got it running - it is about to be my turn soon. I just have "some" electrical issues first.....
Most likely when it was federalized a shop in the US added the catalytic converters.Pedi wrote:I am not quite with you.wkohler wrote: I have to say it sounded pretty cool without the rear muffler. Just two gigantic cats(one for each pipe - which will be removed) and a resonator.
Are you sure they are Cats, and not just ordinary silencers? As you have the #083, you were not supposed to have catalysts - they did not come until the TurboKat-edition from serial #237...
anyway, I am glad you got it running - it is about to be my turn soon. I just have "some" electrical issues first.....
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- Location: Nasty Orleans------> Batten-Rooehjch------>More Souther LA
Over the last two weeks, some progress has been made on the car.
-Valve adjustment (two exhaust valves were a little tight, but everything else about dead-on)
-Oil change (Castrol TWS 10w60)
-New plugs (Bosch WR6DP0)
-New plug wires, cap, rotor
-Complete cooling system sans lower radiator hose (honestly, the original looks and feels like new, though I'm working on sourcing a new one)
-New brake booster
-25mm master cylinder
-replaced front calipers with a good set of M5 calipers (the originals are actually M5 calipers, which I'll rebuild)
-stainless brake lines
-changed the alternator
-reattached the rear muffler for the time being to keep it from sounding like a WRX and blowing exhaust at the fuel tank.
-mounted some Continental Extreme Contact DWs
I drove the car to a local CCA show in Scottsdale today. It got some positive reception from a few people. Many people had no idea what it was (despite my sheet explaining that). I learned that a 1995 M3 is considered a "classic" as well, though a 1996 M3 is not because it's OBDII.
The car drives quite nicely. I've put about 80 miles on it since getting it running. I'm very surprised at how tight it is. There is virtually no play in the steering box, no creaks, moans, etc. No shimmy, either. It's actually a pleasant car to drive. I've been driving it quite conservatively.
I'm going to take some more photos of the car showing it's cleaner demeanor and post those soon.
-Valve adjustment (two exhaust valves were a little tight, but everything else about dead-on)
-Oil change (Castrol TWS 10w60)
-New plugs (Bosch WR6DP0)
-New plug wires, cap, rotor
-Complete cooling system sans lower radiator hose (honestly, the original looks and feels like new, though I'm working on sourcing a new one)
-New brake booster
-25mm master cylinder
-replaced front calipers with a good set of M5 calipers (the originals are actually M5 calipers, which I'll rebuild)
-stainless brake lines
-changed the alternator
-reattached the rear muffler for the time being to keep it from sounding like a WRX and blowing exhaust at the fuel tank.
-mounted some Continental Extreme Contact DWs
I drove the car to a local CCA show in Scottsdale today. It got some positive reception from a few people. Many people had no idea what it was (despite my sheet explaining that). I learned that a 1995 M3 is considered a "classic" as well, though a 1996 M3 is not because it's OBDII.
The car drives quite nicely. I've put about 80 miles on it since getting it running. I'm very surprised at how tight it is. There is virtually no play in the steering box, no creaks, moans, etc. No shimmy, either. It's actually a pleasant car to drive. I've been driving it quite conservatively.
I'm going to take some more photos of the car showing it's cleaner demeanor and post those soon.
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- Joined: Feb 12, 2006 12:00 PM
- Location: Atlanta Georgia USA
Looking forward to see more pics.
How much difference did you actually feel from changing to the 25mm sylinder?
And yeah, you are totally right about the exhaust also - my bad. Only the B9 was given an option, I read wrong long time ago, and I have been convinced about it ever after.
Could you do me an favor if possible?
Could you take a picture of the ECUs in the glovebox, I cannot remember the exact location of the installation...??
How much difference did you actually feel from changing to the 25mm sylinder?
And yeah, you are totally right about the exhaust also - my bad. Only the B9 was given an option, I read wrong long time ago, and I have been convinced about it ever after.
Could you do me an favor if possible?
Could you take a picture of the ECUs in the glovebox, I cannot remember the exact location of the installation...??
I don't see this car at 5erWest. It's just too many miles.
As far as changing the master cylinder, the brakes work now, so there was a pretty big difference from before where you'd push the pedal to the floor because the fluid boiled. I have to say it's a definite improvement over using the handbrake.
In all seriousness, it makes a difference. Some say that it makes the pedal harder to modulate, but I find that to be a non-issue with 4-piston calipers. I used a 25mm unit on my 535is with E31 Brembos, so I'm very used to it. My other E28s have stock brakes and a stock master. I don't notice any real difference in pedal between those and this car. The car stops well, though.
There's no difference between this car or any of the others with how the ECU is situated compared to a 535i. The ECU is an 061 with a sticker over it and an Alpina chip inside. I imagine your car might run an 059 since you have a kat. I can get photos next time I pull the car out.
As far as changing the master cylinder, the brakes work now, so there was a pretty big difference from before where you'd push the pedal to the floor because the fluid boiled. I have to say it's a definite improvement over using the handbrake.
In all seriousness, it makes a difference. Some say that it makes the pedal harder to modulate, but I find that to be a non-issue with 4-piston calipers. I used a 25mm unit on my 535is with E31 Brembos, so I'm very used to it. My other E28s have stock brakes and a stock master. I don't notice any real difference in pedal between those and this car. The car stops well, though.
There's no difference between this car or any of the others with how the ECU is situated compared to a 535i. The ECU is an 061 with a sticker over it and an Alpina chip inside. I imagine your car might run an 059 since you have a kat. I can get photos next time I pull the car out.