MyE28.com

sweet shot! Zinno really pops in lower light settings.

My wheel/suspension guy, Tru-Line of Bellevue, provides a check-up service ~1000miles after they do work. It's been a bit more than that since we put the new suspension bits on Vlad, but today I had them have a look-see.

Things have settled a little; there's a bit too much toe on the left rear and the rear camber is a tad much, but given the whole front suspension will be pulled out of the car when the engine is taken out in a few months there's no need to do a re-alignment now.

Shiny Alpina wheel bolts will complete the look of those Alpina wheels.

I am also on this project now...

black bolts for the win - IMHO

Such a great looking car. Black bolts only.

Oh, jeeze. Please no shiny/black bolt debate here please. Take it somewhere else.

cek wrote:Oh, jeeze. Please no shiny/black bolt debate here please. Take it somewhere else.

Yeah, shiny black works...good point CEK. Anyone else agree? Bwahahaha

BimmerSultan wrote:

cek wrote:Oh, jeeze. Please no shiny/black bolt debate here please. Take it somewhere else.

Yeah, shiny black works...good point CEK. Anyone else agree? Bwahahaha

I like my bolts like I likes my women . . .

oldskool wrote:

BimmerSultan wrote:

cek wrote:Oh, jeeze. Please no shiny/black bolt debate here please. Take it somewhere else.

Yeah, shiny black works...good point CEK. Anyone else agree? Bwahahaha

I like my bolts like I likes my women . . .

Stripped?

oldskool wrote:

BimmerSultan wrote:

cek wrote:Oh, jeeze. Please no shiny/black bolt debate here please. Take it somewhere else.

Yeah, shiny black works...good point CEK. Anyone else agree? Bwahahaha

I like my bolts like I likes my women . . .

Loose?

Mike in Seattle wrote:

oldskool wrote:

BimmerSultan wrote:

cek wrote:Oh, jeeze. Please no shiny/black bolt debate here please. Take it somewhere else.

Yeah, shiny black works...good point CEK. Anyone else agree? Bwahahaha

I like my bolts like I likes my women . . .

Loose?

tight!

Strewn about on the garage floor?

now you've done it! you've defiled cek's pristine, ocd thread with your loose, black women that you keep strewn across your dirty whore floor.

Latest Status:

• 1987 BMW 535is - Built September 9, 1986
• WBADC7401H0964420
• Zinnoberrot (Cinnabar) on black
• Delivered to first owner in Orange, CA February 27, 1988
• Sold to 2nd owner in Santa Barbara, CA October 6, 2000 @ 87,525 miles
• Sold to 3rd owner (me) in Bellevue, WA April 5, 2013 @ 171,000 miles
• Now just shy of 177,000 miles.

Updates/Tweaks:

• Conforti chip
• 740iL calipers (painted red), ATE power rotors, 740iL master cylinder, Akebono ceramic pads, stainless hoses
• 3.23 limited slip differential (from a 2003 M Coupe)
• Summer tires: Alpina open lug (16x7 ET11, 16x8 ET24) wheels - Continental Extreme Contact DW 205/55-R16, 225/50-R16 tires
• Summer tires #2: BBS RS Staggered 005s and 006s (16x7 ET11 /16x8 ET24). Not mounted yet.
• Winter tires: BBS RX223 (16x8" ET15) wheels - Nokian Hakapelittas R2s in 205/55R16 (currently on Maytag)
• Rolled rear fenders
• Tinted windows
• Cibie headlights, H4 80/100w, H1 100w, with upgraded wiring, relays and fuses
• Upgraded tail-lights (E28+4 light adaptation kit from MisterFixit)
• Motorsport Series strut brace
• H&R Springs
• Bilstein Sport shocks
• K-MAC Stage 1 street front adjustable camber kit
• K-MAC Rear camber & toe kit
• Powerflex rear subframe bushings
• Custom installed 2-port USB power plugs
• Custom hard-wired Valentine 1 radar detector install
• JVC KD-AHD75BT CD/MP3/Bluetooth head unit, big ass amplifier, and subwoofer (PO)
• Shadowline conversion (in progress)
• Bavarian Auto ceramic coated headers
• Ireland Engineering exhaust
• E34 Sport seats
• Black with red dots Cocomats.
• Aux fuse box modified so that on-in-accy is now wired through to head-unit.
• Lighted //M shift knob

In progress or planned upgrades (in rough priority order):

• I have a Miller MAF I want to install for funzies. I plan on using it with the M30B35 engine, but want to test it out on the B34 first as part of the 'baseline' dyno testing I will do before the engine swap.
• 10:1 compression, Paul Burke cam'd, M30B35 motor from an '88 735i (currently rebuilding for funzies).
• Pelican Parts clutch kit (incl. Sachs clutch; acquired; will go in with M30B35)
• Lightweight flywheel (acquired)
• Upgrade of dash, center console, etc... with black leather and some red highlights.
• Shadowline kit (faux vinyl tape based kit installed, real kit acquired, just not installed)
• Euro bumper conversion (WTB)

Current gremlins & annoyances:

• Hesitation/stall right after cold start (for 8-10 seconds). Minor but annoying. ***
• Starter solenoid fails to engage 1/3 of the time. ***
• Rear main seal leaks like the Exxon Valdez. ***
• Exhaust tips are slightly crooked. ***
• PS pump/lines have slight leak. ***
• Annoying rattle coming from sunroof, right above passenger's right shoulder.
• Left rear window barely works. Need to pull door cards and lube regulators and lock mechanisms..
• E34 sport seats heat not hooked up. Will fix this next time I have a chance to pull the seats out of the car.
• Breaks squeal/squeak after sitting/drying/rusting
• Rear window defroster inop

All items marked with *** will be addressed with the M30B35 transplant.

As I mentioned in the thread about oil analysis I put off changing the oil in Vlad because the B34 was going to come out "soon" and there was no point in wasting good oil in it.

However, as work on Maytag has delayed getting the M30B35 together the miles on Vlad have racked up. It now has 177404 miles on it. I last changed the oil at 171791 (right after I got it). I'm embarrassed that I let 5600 miles go, when I'm normally a 3000 mile guy.

Tonight I changed the oil because waiting any longer would just be stupid and will put this perfectly fine M30B34 at risk

Under the car I noted that what I had previously thought was a rear main seal leak was doing a nice job of keeping the rust at bay.



I now believe that the rear main seal may be a partial culprit, the real villain is the rear of the head as I can see shiny oil back there. Just more motivation to get this engine out of the car and the M30B35 in.

Because I have a lift, I pulled the oil filter out from the bottom. Super easy to do that way.

But putting it back on is easier from above.

Except when you discover that the rubber boot on the positive terminal to the alternator is missing and you touch the oil filter housing to it and the block at the same time. You discover the boot is missing only after you do this. And you just about shit your pants from the sparks that erupt. And you are glad you are wearing gloves.



Next time I'll disconnect the ground from the battery first.

I'm sending this 6500 mile, run hard and put away wet, oil off to Blackstone Labs for analysis. It will be interesting to see what the results say!

Check you oil pressure sending unit for leakage.

1st 5er wrote:Check you oil pressure sending unit for leakage.

Ah, good call. It is right there where I can feel wetness below where the head & block meet on the left side of the motor. I'll take a closer look when I get a chance.

Off hand, do you know if it can be removed/tightened with the intake in the way?

R&R can be done with the intake in place.

One more question:

What is the common cause of a leak with the oil pressure switch?

- Do they fail and need to be replaced?
- The they come loose?
- Does the seal/washer fail?

Thanks.

cek wrote:One more question:

What is the common cause of a leak with the oil pressure switch?

- Do they fail and need to be replaced?
- The they come loose?
- Does the seal/washer fail?

Thanks.

My experience has been the plastic to metal separating and leaking.

I'm glad I'm not the only late night grammar challenged one on the board getting quoted.

1st 5er wrote:

cek wrote:One more question:

What is the common cause of a leak with the oil pressure switch?

- Do they fail and need to be replaced?
- The they come loose?
- Does the seal/washer fail?

Thanks.

My experience has been the plastic to metal separating and leaking.

I'm glad I'm not the only late night grammar challenged one on the board getting quoted.

Bastard. I was going to fix that but you HAD to quote it.

cek wrote:

1st 5er wrote:

cek wrote:One more question:

What is the common cause of a leak with the oil pressure switch?

- Do they fail and need to be replaced?
- The they come loose?
- Does the seal/washer fail?

Thanks.

My experience has been the plastic to metal separating and leaking.

I'm glad I'm not the only late night grammar challenged one on the board getting quoted.

Bastard. I was going to fix that but you HAD to quote it.

Payback is hell.

I pulled the oil pressure switch and, sure enough, the boot that covers the connector was full of oil.



I should have another B34 oil pressure switch around here, but I can't find it. I did find a B35 switch and while the connector is different I'm assuming they work the same. I put it in and I think things are still leaking...so back to it being the rear main seal.

The head unit in the 911 is pretty ancient and does not have Bluetooth. I put a BT adapter in that connected to the aux input, but I really don't like the fact that I have another device and set of wires in my baby. So I decided to use this as an excuse to buy a new head unit for Vlad...I'm putting the JVC into the 911.

I got a new for 2014 model from Kenwood, KDC-X798. So far I like it except it does not have a dimmer input (the specs on Crutchfield said it does).

Realized I never took or posted a pic of how the amp and subwoofer were installed by the PO.



FWIW, the stereo in this car sounds great.

What is the size of that woofer and how much power is going to it..? Also, Do you know what size hole was cut in the rear package tray for that woofer to work..?

I meant to ask you about this a long time ago but I got side tracked and I keep going back and forth on ideas of how to introducing more base to my current set up... Thanks for posting the pic.