Minerva: The S54 powered, better than new, E28

[tig]

RSs are the winner. I do like the Fikses though. Very surprised the RSs rub since they should work with unmodified arches. Something must be wrong.

No marks, but I heard it once. I think.

[foundlostart]

RS's, RZ's a close 2nd - I'm usually not a fan of two tone wheels but they look right on this car too.

[Ordnator]

If you do not smoke then there is a storage tray alternative, item 10 in the link.

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showpa ... Id=51_1089

I will take some photographs of this both in and out of the car and send them to you for comparison.

Plan B, the storage tray has the same orange plastic windows as the ashtray.

The ashtray is NLA whereas the storage tray is still listed as available from the main stealers.

I may also have an ashtray kicking around as I have fitted storage trays to two of my Eta's.

Best regards,

Mick

I've never seen the storage tray. Thanks!

E-mail with pictures inbound.

Best regards,

Mick

[boomvader]

I love looking at this car. I vote RS with RZ's a close 2nd. Like you, I prefer 16" wheels on an E28.

I second everything Adam says here. True candy for the eyes!

[Smileyboy]

This is an absolutely stunning build! I'm still working byway through all the pages.

What did you do about soundproofing? Anything?

[tig]

This is an absolutely stunning build! I'm still working byway through all the pages.

What did you do about soundproofing? Anything?

From a few posts back:

Charlie, Minerva is absolutely stunning. Bravo! I almost have a hard time peeling my eyes from the photos!

Question: How is the cabin noise compared to Vlad and Maytag? Not sure if you also used sound deadening materials on the other two cars, so my question might be moot.

I'm going to hold off making a call here. Without the center console in, it's not apples to apples.

Recall that on this car I used a spray on sound damping material (this). Plus some 80mil stick on mat in key places.

On Maytag I went all-in on the 80 mil mat. Vlad is basically stock.

I suspect I have more work to do on the firewall of this car.

[Kenny Blankenship]

Oooooo...that engine and exhaust system sounds nice!

Wheels, I prefer either the RZ or Fikse. Weight-wise, RZs aren't the lightest, which are why the Fikses are nearly the same weight as the RZs.

[tig]

On to the moonroof.

I purchased a BMW OE moonroof for this car way back, about the time I procured the chassis. When I got it, I opened the box (which was very well packed) and noted the frame had some surface rust, one corner was slightly dent and out of round, and the gasket was shot. I didn't really know enough about the mechanisms to dive in, and didn't have time then. So I packed it all back up and eventually just handed it to 425 "this goes in that hole in the roof". I now regret not taking the time to refurbish it way back then. It'll all be fine, but.

In the past year, I had multiple conversations with Dan at 425 about the seal. Because of being in Utah, I could not verify myself (and each time I visited the car I forgot to do so), but Dan kept insisting there was no way to remove the seal from the frame. Kohler and Ivo reassured me (multiple times, thanks for being patient guys) the moonroof seal is exactly the same parts as the sunroof seal. After removing the panel from the car Monday, I now understand why Dan didn't think it was removable: It was either glued in with gasket maker or the rubber had so baked in as to have the same effect. It almost wasn't removable.

Removing it reminded me of one of my first painful wrenching jobs: I had to get the oil pan gasket material off the engine block of Uglina (my FJ40). This was pre-lift. Toyota makes an amazing gasket material called FIPG (form in place gasket). It is unbelievably strong. It sticks to metal like you wouldn't believe.



Anyway, getting this cleaned up was a bitch. First was getting the bulk of the gasket material out. Then sanding and wire wheeling to knock back the surface rust. Thankfully it was just surface rust. More sanding and cleaning.


























I will paint today.

Along the way, I pulled the entire assembly apart. I discovered the overhead console in the car is my 2nd best one. It has the plastic clips for the upper screws in place (very nicely epoxied in place) but has "puffery" in the vinyl.



The other unit has perfect vinyl, but is missing those plastic clips, which is probably why it was not chosen by 425. Both had cracks where they all crack at the mirror hole. As I try to source a set of the clip pieces (anyone!?!?) I set about ensuring neither cracks further.


The idea was to use epoxy with some thin but strong lateral reinforcement. Ages ago I bought 10,000 metal zip ties. A buddy had the brilliant idea that I could put them in the vise and pound them into mini angle irons. So that's what I did.




These won't crack any more!


A select few of you probably noticed this in the photos of the engine bay. I know I did. Details matter.


After:


Back to the moonroof. Because we knew the seal wasn't good, the moonroof installation was "temporary". This means mitch didn't take the time to really clean everything. I'm happy about that because I didn't get billed for it, and because it means I get to get intimate with it all and ensure it's all "tits".




While I was up there, i decided to verify the drains worked. This is where I discovered the first thing I've found on this car where the worksmanship was shoddy. I was so pissed to find the drain holes plugged with sand from sand blasting. The driver's side is still clogged. I let Dan at 425 know how pissed I was about this. It makes me worry about the rear holes! Ugh. I'm still trying to figure out how I'm going to unclog this. I got about 3" of sand out with various tools.


I added a quick-disconnect to the battery, given how much I'm working on this thing. BTDT on almost ruining electronics by not disconnecting the battery when wrenching.

[oldskool]

Outstanding. I can smell that beer and hear the Maroon5 playing while you're working. . .

[tig]

First, someone please give me some inspiration on how to clean out the driver's sunroof drain. I've tried the weed wacker/power drill thing. I've tried bore cleaners. Etc... I've moved from about 4" in to about 6" in. I even tried sucking. This did not suck enough:



This sucked more, but still didn't get the sand to cum out:


Sunroof motor R&R:





These are OK. I was tempted to just leave them. But then my OCD got the better of me. Never put a part that's rusting back on a car.





And the moon roof itself:

[muleskinner]

First, someone please give me some inspiration on how to clean out the driver's sunroof drain. I've tried the weed wacker/power drill thing. I've tried bore cleaners. Etc...

Karcher?

[boomvader]

Charlie, is it possible to force air from the bottom end up? Or snake something from the bottom?

[tig]

Charlie, is it possible to force air from the bottom end up? Or snake something from the bottom?

I believe I can get access to the bottom tube from the speaker hole. However, this will blow shit all over the interior if I don't put some thing to cover the moon roof hole. I'm also leery of high pressure air in those 35 year old tubes. In retrospect, I should have had them tested for pressure/leaks before paint; I thought about it but forgot and never did it.

[tig]

A little tab thing on the left sunroof mechanism was broke. It, apparently, tries to keep the cable from rotating. I don't think it's really needed.

I've never JB Welded anything before, so I figured I'd give it a try.





Of course, the JB Weld failed and broke off while I was installing the unit. I even let it try 24 hours. Like I said, I don't think it's really needed.

I got the mechanism in and was able to figure out how to adjust the motor/cables so the relays click at the right spots (thanks again @ahab), but the new seal hasn't arrived. I wasn't going to paint the outer edge of the moon roof, but then I noticed this.



That will not do. So out came the tape, sand paper, and our good friend, SEM Trim Black.


Today I'm going to 425 to collect parts off the parts car before it gets taken to the car cemetery.

[Smileyboy]

In the Bible book of Genesis, God makes the earth in 6 days, These days are referred to as “creative days” not literal days. God’s day is 1000 years roughly.. or 6000 years
Charlie?

I’m not calling you God... but where do you find the time?

Also, where are you finding crack free dashes??

[tig]

but where do you find the time?

You'll note that over the past year, I've not done much wrenching myself, so I think I struggle to find time just like everyone else. Because my kids are adults (supposedly) and I don't normally watch much TV I can find a few hours here and there.

Also, where are you finding crack free dashes??

I'm not. If I were I'd not be currently looking for one for Vlad.

This came:


The gen 2 remote display is not yet available, so I'll have to suffer through looking up for a bit. But I'm excited to give it a try.

I set about the wiring for this as well as the Blackvue 4K front/rear dashcam. This is the same dashcam I put in Maytag except 4k. One thing I like about it is the included "Power Magic Pro" that ensures the camera won't run the battery down as it records in "parking mode".



To do this I need both an always-on 12V source as well as one that's hot in run only. I could tap into the stereo wiring, but then I'd need to splice into an existing wire. I have long wondered what all those extra pins on the C302 accessory connector were for, and if they could be used as a source of power for things like this. Using a spare harness, I dove in.









Turns out 3 & 6 are ideal. I just needed a connector. So I made one out of plugs from the spare harness. A little plastic shaving and zip ties to hold it together ensures I always plug it in correctly. I've labeled the wires too.



Hopefully I can find some time today to give it all a try 'in anger'.

Meanwhile, puppies:

[kzolee]

Vote for Minerva's shoes. But remember this is not a democracy.

Maybe you could try RS with black centers...

Anyway: amazing work and a 4 year gigabuild. The result is fantastic, I hope you will enjoy it for a long-long period of time without problems.

[CYoung]

Whats the source of the wiring diagram? Great work as always.

[tig]

Whats the source of the wiring diagram? Great work as always.

Page 8500-2 from the ETM:


+ Some Sluthing + MS Paint:



Got it wrapped up this afternoon. Slick. As an added bonus both the radar detector and dashcams work.


All my fondling with the C302 connector gave me the idea that it had extra slide-on connectors. I went through the junk wiring harnesses looking for something I could butcher, originally looking for a relay holder. But then I found the connector that holds some HVAC relay thing in place next to the heater box. I butchered it nicely, keeping just the slotty part that slips in into the slide-on connector (technical, official terms):


Some carefully crafted wire crimps and some double sided tape judiciously applied:


I learned in Maytag that I have no need/desire to turn the switch on/off. It's always on (record after parking car for 12 hours or until the battery gets below 12v), so I'm not worried about it not being accessible.

[davintosh]

Dang, Charlie, this thing is turning out great! I've been kind of away for a while, and last I remember it was still in for paint. I need to come back here more often!

[tig]

Dang, Charlie, this thing is turning out great! I've been kind of away for a while, and last I remember it was still in for paint. I need to come back here more often!

Finally got parole, eh? Great to hear from you.

[BoogerEater]

Another beautiful car cek, just finished reading all three posts, whew...

As far as the drip lines and removal of said sand obstruction, maybe try to hot glue a 4-6” section of the black suction hose with a tee fitting to the weep hole, then reconnect the suction hose so it’s 90 degrees from the 4-6” section, now you can run a thin piece of bailing wire or even aluminum dry wall wire while vacuuming at the same time. Just a thought...

[tig]

Another beautiful car cek, just finished reading all three posts, whew...

As far as the drip lines and removal of said sand obstruction, maybe try to hot glue a 4-6” section of the black suction hose with a tee fitting to the weep hole, then reconnect the suction hose so it’s 90 degrees from the 4-6” section, now you can run a thin piece of bailing wire or even aluminum dry wall wire while vacuuming at the same time. Just a thought...

Thanks. Sorry you had to read all that

I was able to get the fronts cleared out. This was the trick (thanks Jaimie!).


But, I finally tested the rears and have really bad news. The left drain hose was apparently jarred out of position after headliner install and is now draining down inside of the C pillar instead of out of the vent. When I first inspected the headliner, I complained that it was too tight with the ceiling and the drain tubes etc... were 'imprinting' on it. I think they tried fixing this by pushing up on the drain hoses and the left one popped up and out of that spot.

Here it is before paint, and the curvature of the hose indicates it's in the right spot.


But, now, when looking from the outside with the vent cover removed, the hose is not visible as it should be.

Here's the right side. See tube.


Here's the left side. No see tube. But see paint shadow proving it was there at paint time.


So, the good news is this is on the upholstery shop to fix. I'm still not happy with headliner fitment given what it cost, so I'm going to ask them to do it all over again. That's the bad news as it means the rear glass needs to come out. But this needs to be done right.

Other progress:

Got the refurbished moonroof done and in. It looks and operates fantastically. I really struggled to get the actuator relay to stop at the right spots. No matter what I did to adjust it, the motor would stop the roof ~1" short of close when going forward. I pulled my hair out on this one. Eventually I tried the motor I took off the parts car instead of the one I rebuilt above. Low and behold, it turns out you can put these motors together wrong, and I'm apparently an expert at doing so. Still not sure what I did wrong. Anyway, the parts car only had 160k on it and that motor was in better shape.




Discovered this. Duh. Now ISO an anthracite version. Let me know...


Love the mic that comes with the Blaupunkt head unit. Much better than what I did in Vlad & Maytag. It's not taped in place yet.


Who noticed the trim pieces were missing from the scoops? I did.


It's neat these "no smoker option" ash tray inserts are available new. I sorta think I prefer being able to close it, but I'll live with this for a while and report back.


Got all the sport mode wiring nailed, with just one little detail left. I wired the actuator side to the blinker stalk. Normally when you push the stalk it cycles the OBC display. I've NEVER used that on any BMW I've owned. So now if I press it, I toggle sport mode on MSS54HP DME. I figured out which pin on the DME signals sport mode is on, and discovered, contrary to Internet knowledge, it is 4V and not 12V. This means I need to build a circuit to switch a 12V line. I'm going to use the bulb that goes behind the unused green indicator on the left side of the cluster. I plan to figure out a way to etch/sticker that indicator with either the word "sport" or an icon of Minerva. TBD.


This all led me down the rabbit hole of seeing what Mitch really did behind the center console and for the DME mounting. All in all he did a really nice job and I don't feel I need to rework anything, just reroute some wires.


The nice thing about how he hung the DME is I can actually pull all the connectors off easily without removing the DME! It was trivial to add wires to pins 15 & 16 on X60004 to get the sport mode stuff.


Originally I was going to restore the wiper/cruise/blinker stalks with a decal set I had sourced. Then I discovered all those stalks are still available new. No brainer to just buy them. They've arrived and should go in this week.

Next up: AC

We had sourced the same parallel flow condenser that Austin is using in his AC conversion kits and Mitch had fabricated a slick mounting system for it and the aux fan.



I am using some of the lines from Austin's kit (very well done BTW), but those that go to the compressor wont work for me because my compressor is the S54/E46 compressor (Denso). The high and low side connections are in the wrong place for his hoses, and have the wrong connections.


I found an adapter kit for Denso compressors that converts the press-fittings to the older style. Unfortunately that kit is for some OTHER Denso compressor that has a #8 high and #10 low side. The E46 Denso unit has a #1500 or something on the low side. Nothing I could find online would work. So I sourced a used E46 low-side line and am in the process of modifying it to adapt.

The high-side line into the compressor that Austin provides is designed for the connection to be on the bottom/back of the Sanden. On the E46 unit is on the top/front. Thus I need to modify that line to change the orientation of the connector. I'm going to put a hard 90 in it as well to ensure it routes without any binding.


Turns out:

1) Auto repair shops no longer have these tools and refuse to work on older AC systems.
2) Chinese knockoffs are available at 1/3 the cost.
3) I can't stand Chinese knockoffs.


Made some test fittings to ensure I knew the technique:


I'm now waiting for parts to arrive so I can finish this. I am now pretty confident I know what I'm doing which is a victory because two weeks ago I freaking out about how this would all work.

New seatbelt receptacles came and they work (third try is a charm). Now I can put Maytag's back in her.


Please see this thread and offer your thoughts: viewtopic.php?f=3&t=154641

The pups say hi (when awake):

[BoogerEater]

Great to hear the fronts are clear and that the rear will be sorted will the headliner... looks like you are getting your list knocked out, it must feel awesome to be nearing the proverbial finish line.

Also thanks you for taking the time to share your journey with these amazing cars... I’m searching for my first e28 535is or 535i, your threads have already helped by learning what to look for on these cars, but I digress... Vlad, Maytag and Minerva are amazing builds and all the fabulous information shared will benefit all who read it. You are definitely a man on a mission and I just want to say thanks for taking us along for the ride!

[objectgroup]

First, someone please give me some inspiration on how to clean out the driver's sunroof drain. I've tried the weed wacker/power drill thing. I've tried bore cleaners. Etc... I've moved from about 4" in to about 6" in.

Cleared mine with craft store 1/8" aluminum armature wire folded in half (to avoid a sharp point). I see you got it clear though.