Minerva: The S54 powered, better than new, E28

[tig]

The toolkit cover has a few mars on it the plastic, but the fact that I found one (two actually) brings me joy.

[tig]

The battery that was bought for this car in 2014 (Bosch) when we first fitted the S54 in the chassis won't hold a charge. Apparently 6+ years of sitting and being used only intermittently to test starts etc... has doomed it. We believe this is also the cause of the "Yo, your charging system ain't providing enough volts" gauge lights coming on after long drives.

I assumed said battery was a standard E28 battery. So I went to Costco. When I got there, Kohler reminded me there are two battery sizes that fit: "48 (H6) but 47 (H5) works and fits better".

Like a dummy I didn't bring the box that was fabricated for the battery in the trunk, and wasn't sure which of these would fit. So I bought both.

Then I got home and discovered neither would fit because my assumption (ass-you-me) was wrong and said 2014 battery was not an E28 battery. But an H7. So back to Costco again to return the H5 and H6 and get an H7 (I took the box with me this time!).



So now Minerva has a new battery. No data yet on whether it actually fixes the suspected problem. But I did verify (again) that I'm getting minimal parasitic drain (~2 milliamps) from the battery while the car is sitting.

[tig]

You'll recall that before I last took the car to 425 I had been working on the AC. I was missing some fittings and they didn't come before I had to drop off the car. Today I got the lines all built and hooked up.

I first test-fitted everything in the car and used a paint pen to ensure the orientation was right when I crimped.






The S54 compressor is a tight fit with the E46 high-side hose attachment being pretty bulky. But I was able to fab things such that it's all clean.




I'll get my guy to come by and test it and fill 'er up later this week I hope.

[Bonsaibacker]

The toolkit cover has a few mars on it the plastic, but the fact that I found one (two actually) brings me joy.

Been looking and not acting fast enough when I see them for sale, so if you're unloading one...

[tig]

After getting all the AC hoses sorted, I needed to ensure the right amount of PAG-46 oil (PAG-46 is what's specified for the E46 M3) is in the compressor. All other AC components are new, so there's no oil in any of them. I didn't know how much oil remained in the compressor since it's been on and off the engine several times since I acquired it.

I guessed that this port would allow for draining the oil, and I probably could have taken it off while the compressor was in the car, but decided to pull the compressor for the job.


I've never actually fondled belts/pullies on a car with a serpentine belt system before, so was a little unsure of the procedure. Turns out it's insanely easy: Just compress the appropriate belt tightener assembly and use a tool in the helpfully provided holes to keep it that way. The belt then comes off.

The compressor is attached with 3 bolts. Getting it off was cake. It turns out it was basically dry, with no oil remaining. This is actually good news as it means I could be more precise in ensuring the right amount of oil was added back (BMW specifies 3.30-4.70 Oz. of PAG-46).


The next job turned out to be fun. In a slightly insane way...

The early-style (9/84 and earlier) HVAC controls I sourced for this car had a broken pin where one of the slider knobs go. I was able to source a couple extra slider assemblies and yesterday I dug into fixing this.

I immediately discovered the unit I had sourced had been broken internally, fixed with epoxy, and that epoxy had failed. Each of these holes should have a brass insert for the screws that hold the 3 sliders assemblies in place. They were almost all broken off.


Damn. That sucks, because early style HVAC parts are hard to find.

I got out one of my old-style spares (I have a baker's dozen or so) and decided to see whether the underlying part was actually different. It turns out the plastic molding re-enforcements changes a bit over time, but the parts are identical! The only material difference is the late-style does not have the brass screw inserts.



Well... since I have the brass inserts still connected to the screws I could simply insert them. I found the best way to do this was to heat up the insert with a heat gun and tap them in. Then as they cool, the plastic grabs. Done.


I also disassembled and completely cleaned one of the good slider assemblies. After lubing it, it slides like new. I also tested the LED (which have recently gone NLA).

I took apart 3 other assemblies to find the silk-screen (prisms as realoem calls them) parts to find those with the brightest colors and whitest whites. I did find I could brighten up the white by cleaning with alcohol, but they'll never be as white as new (an they are NLA; I checked). Of course I broke the best one cleaning it, so will be using the 2nd best:




This is when I realized I have never seen the connector that connects to these things.


In looking at all the parts diagrams I came to realize that it must be part of the early-style harness. My car has an '85 harness in it, and thus that connector and wiring does not exist. Hence me posting this thread:

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=155390

I'll finish all this up today and pray I can find that connector/wire quick!

[tig]

I completed the restoration of the HVAC controls.

For reference, because as far as I can tell there's no way to tell by looking at the device, this is the proper orientation of the LEDs. Note these LEDs are NLA but if they did need to be replaced it would be easy to source them. I haven't tested their amperage yet but based on the resistor colors (Yellow - 4, Violet - 7, Brown - 1, Gold - +/5%) the resistors are 47KΩ.


All cleaned and lubed.








I'm missing a knob, but they are NOT NLA so I've ordered new.

Thanks to @south26 the appropriate early-style wires are inbound.

[vinceg101]

Bravo, Charlie! Keep fighting the good fight.

On batteries, I just had to replace the 2 year old Bosch (I think it was an H4?) I had in the M535; it too couldn't hold a charge anymore. I do have a parasitic drain (likely in the audio system amp board but could also be a bad relay I replaced also) that I am trying to isolate but with the weak battery it was hard to pin-point. It died while it was on a tender recently and kept testing "weak" no matter how much I charged it. I replaced it with a Champion H6 AGM (Johnson Controls) that PepBoys seems to be pushing instead of the Bosch these days. The old one was under warranty so the AGM was an upgrade for only pocket change. It did require me to upgrade my battery tender also (CTEK-40-206 MXS with AGM settings) which I wasn't accounting for but necessary.
We'll see how well it does.

Can't wait to see this car in person. Someday. Soon...

[tig]

Bravo, Charlie! Keep fighting the good fight.

On batteries, I just had to replace the 2 year old Bosch (I think it was an H5?) I had in the M535; it too couldn't hold a charge anymore. I do have a parasitic drain (likely in the audio system amp board but could also be a bad relay I replaced also) that I am trying to isolate but with the weak battery it was hard to pin-point. It died while it was on a tender recently and kept testing "weak" no matter how much I charged it. I replaced it with a Champion H7 AGM (Johnson Controls) that PepBoys seems to be pushing instead of the Bosch these days. The old one was under warranty so the AGM was an upgrade for only pocket change. It did require me to upgrade my battery tender also (CTEK-40-206 MXS with AGM settings) which I wasn't accounting for but necessary.
We'll see how well it does.

Can't wait to see this car in person. Someday. Soon...

I did not know AGM required different battery tenders! Is this true of big chargers too? E.g. can my old Craftsman correctly charge an AGM battery?!?

[vinceg101]

Bravo, Charlie! Keep fighting the good fight.

On batteries, I just had to replace the 2 year old Bosch (I think it was an H5?) I had in the M535; it too couldn't hold a charge anymore. I do have a parasitic drain (likely in the audio system amp board but could also be a bad relay I replaced also) that I am trying to isolate but with the weak battery it was hard to pin-point. It died while it was on a tender recently and kept testing "weak" no matter how much I charged it. I replaced it with a Champion H7 AGM (Johnson Controls) that PepBoys seems to be pushing instead of the Bosch these days. The old one was under warranty so the AGM was an upgrade for only pocket change. It did require me to upgrade my battery tender also (CTEK-40-206 MXS with AGM settings) which I wasn't accounting for but necessary.
We'll see how well it does.

Can't wait to see this car in person. Someday. Soon...

I did not know AGM required different battery tenders! Is this true of big chargers too? E.g. can my old Craftsman correctly charge an AGM battery?!?

Unknown. Heading to the Great God Google...

[tig]

Shocking that it took the whole weekend to put the center console and glove box in. Of course, it's never that easy and this is the first time those parts have been fitted on this chassis in anger. I only had to redo everything twice, which is a record for me. I made sure all the grommets behind the glove box were sealed up as I was getting a l lot of engine noise through them.

Along the way I updated the firmware on Blaupunkt SQR 46 and was very pleased to find out that the new FW remembers what input the unit was on, so my biggest gripe has been addressed. I'm now planning on keeping it.


See this thread for more deets: viewtopic.php?p=1492943#p1492943

New Jay Stratton horse hair on the e-brake console, and I fitted the handle correctly (the button wasn't fully extended; you need to whack the handle on pretty solidly with a rubber mallet).


Still debating whether I like the non-smoker version:




This was my favorite cig-lighter USB-C adapter, but it's NLA, apparently. I liked it because it fit tighter than the Aukey version.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07M8 ... =ceklog-20

Gonna try one of these instead:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089R67JV4?tag=ceklog-20


Of course I broke this. Two steps forward, one back.


I used the better glove box on Maytag and kinda forgot. So now ISO another glove box, because this will not do.


Finally, I guess the S54/G420 transmission sits a little further back as the standard boot stretches when in 2, 4, or 6. This boot is in pretty good shape so I have sad. It doesn't pop out so I may leave it as is.


After a few shakedown drives, with everything in the interior installed except the driver's kick panel, I can now comment authoritatively on interior noise levels: this car is no more nosier to drive than Vlad. All the work I did on the spray-on sound insulation, and buttoning up the firewall paid off. Very nice!

[Ordnator]

New old stock E28 Glove Box anthracite LHD for sale in Greece.

https://www.ebay.de/itm/BMW-E28-Glove-B ... SwjZJZ937y

Best regards,

Mick

[thugginrobby]

Ooo now I want that ashtray, never seen that before

[tig]

Ooo now I want that ashtray, never seen that before

Not NLA.

[Hffvdbl]

Thanks for the update as always. I need to do that update to my headunit, i've got it in my e24. I've got the same gripes as Kohler with it but I ultimately feel like it looks the best and sounds fine. It does look better in the e28 than in the e24. The e28 trim panel makes it look flush mount. On the e24 it sticks out, which I hate.

[thugginrobby]

Do you know the part number? Or what year/model e28?

Ooo now I want that ashtray, never seen that before

Not NLA.

[Ordnator]

Storing Partition 72.60.1.942.786

Best regards,

Mick

[tig]

Minerva has an oil leak.

It is coming from the back-right of the head and is either the exhaust cam sensor o-ring or the valve cover gasket. My initial inspection (and I think optimism) made me believe it was the exhaust cam sensor.

I noted that the sensor has the wrong style bolt holding it in. Pic I took of donor motor way back, clearly shows a hex/allen bolt:


Sensor in car:


Not that this could cause a leak, but annoying. The sensors (and valve cover) were put on by 425 after the motor came back from being built by Steve Dinan's crew at Carbahn.

New o-ring came next day via Amazon and I had the proper hex bolt in my stash.

Old.


New.


Will check today to see if it's still leaking after driving to dinner last night. If it is, then it's the valve cover gasket. I talked to Steve Dinan and he says the OE gasket is the best but even it sucks and they all leak eventually. But no reason it should be leaking this bad right after being built.

Because the car has an E46 AC system in it, I procured the E46 AC sticker which goes on the hood of the E46. I decided to put it here:

[tig]

Makes a great burrito fetching vehicle.




Tried on some new shoes. I like.









Moved AC sticker to correct spot and fixed wiper fluid hose routing.


A little music.
https://youtu.be/IZnW1Pis6ss

[Philo]

Wow, that blue against the fall colors, very beautiful.

[topher800]

Any chance you can tell me the cable holder part you used to secure the washer fluid lines, mine are shattered...

Anything on this page?

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showpa ... Id=12_1306

[vinceg101]

Any chance you can tell me the cable holder part you used to secure the washer fluid lines, mine are shattered...

Anything on this page?

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showpa ... Id=12_1306

I'll let Charlie answer, but I think they are #2 on this page:
https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showpa ... Id=61_0538
Here's a better picture:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-bmw ... 131369507/
Which are unfortunately NLA. They must be recently NLA'd because I could have sworn I bought some not that long ago.
These are nifty little ties as they hook onto the studs on the fenders.

[hunneman]

[/quote]

Very impressive workmanship on Minerva..Great job!.
I have a question, how did you remove the cosmoline from the heat shields..I am in the process of installing mine.
I can't get them to come out like new like you did....The heat shield under the passenger side I powder coated mine..
if you can share any tips..

If I could remove one person from history, it would be the idiot that decided to spray these cars with cosmoline before shipping them across the Atlantic. I hate that stuff, but I have to say it's pretty rewarding once it's all off.

[tig]

Very impressive workmanship on Minerva..Great job!.
I have a question, how did you remove the cosmoline from the heat shields..I am in the process of installing mine.
I can't get them to come out like new like you did....The heat shield under the passenger side I powder coated mine..
if you can share any tips..

The trick is:

1) Oil Eater
2) Scotchbrite sponges
3) Elbow grease
4) Rinse and repeat

Opinions differ on what product to use, but I swear by Oil Eater:


https://www.amazon.com/Oil-Eater-Origin ... =ceklog-20

Get the parts wet.

Spray diluted Oil Eater on them.

Let it sit for a few minutes.

Use your Scotchbrite pads to scrub-a-dub-dub. It is hard work.

Once you've made progress stop, rinse it all off with water and repeat the above until done.

Some of the cosmoline will be very hard to get off. In the past I've had success using either a heat gun or a steam cleaner to warm it up to soften it.

I've also had some success letting it with diesel fuel.

A brass wire brush can be used, but be very careful as that's very aggressive and will leave scratches which you'll then have to remove (if you are as anal as I am).

I didn't have to resort to anything but Oil Eater for these.

[Crazy_Canuck]

resistor colors (Yellow - 4, Violet - 7, Brown - 1, Gold - +/5%) the resistors are 47KΩ.

Brown = x10 multiplier, which would make the resistor 470Ω.

I concur with Oil eater, it works awesome on cleaning up oily messes.

I love the hounds tooth interior.

[Galahad]

Brown = x10 multiplier, which would make the resistor 470Ω.

470Ω 5% is the correct value.
In case anyone was wondering why that number specifically: you generally want somewhere between 10-30mA through an indicating LED like this one; 470Ω puts this right around 27mA if the alternator is running. The exact value you pick isn't critical as long as you take voltage drop across the LED and current rating into account (which is why they can get away with the 5% resistors instead of a tighter spec).