MyE28.com

demetk wrote:

cek wrote:It also explains the oil leaking into the crank pulley. I sure hope that driving several thousand miles without a tight crank nut (which is nowhere to be found) didn't do any damage.

Holy crap. You mean you never tightened that nut? Don't you have a checklist or something?

Me, I don't do checklists but whenever I install something I make sure to finish that particular process. Less chance of forgetting something.

Oh, I tightened it. I did it on the stand though and just to about 200lbs. It's supposed to be 325. I also didn't put locktite on it.

I'm not the first to do this, which sorta makes me feel better.

cek wrote:Oh, I tightened it. I did it on the stand though and just to about 200lbs. It's supposed to be 325. I also didn't put locktite on it.

I'm not the first to do this, which sorta makes me feel better.

Probably won't be the last either. How important is the locktite? Doesn't look like it had any when I removed t.

demetk wrote:

cek wrote:Oh, I tightened it. I did it on the stand though and just to about 200lbs. It's supposed to be 325. I also didn't put locktite on it.

I'm not the first to do this, which sorta makes me feel better.

Probably won't be the last either. How important is the locktite? Doesn't look like it had any when I removed t.

Seems like ANYTHING you can do, in addition to torquing to 325 ft/lbs, is worth while. Can't hurt. None of the instructions I've read (Bentleys and BMW) say use Locktite though.

I have quite a bit of experience with doing crank hub removal M62 V8 BMW motors. Hondas, other vehicles, etc. On the M63 V8 ithe crank bolt is referred to as the Jesus Bolt on the forums. The 27mm crank hub bolt. I have had one pop pop pop (audible popping noise) when it came off. I have also had it completely bend a half inch 24'' breaker bar of mine easily with a cheater on it. When breaking them, I use a 3/4 socket and ratchet with a cheater bar over the top of it. I have had my mechanical mentor, when re-assembling them, say be careful to not break the crank shaft upon re-installation, he has said it is PLENTY tight after 2 passes after the initial torque. 15 years experience talking and many fixed cars from basics to engine rebuilds. I/We basically torque it to spec for the first round and let the bolt cool between passes. However 100nm + 60* angle + 60* angle + 30* angle seems excessive. Usually we do 60* and 60* and forget the 30*. I am surprised CEK's bolt came loose truthfully. I just can't see how it happened... if it was 200 ft/lb, I am pretty certain most veteran mechanics would say WTF. Because 200 is a lot of torque. I also do think loctite is fine to use on the bolt on re-installation. This is simply my experience.

200ft/lb and it still came loose

jodystevens wrote:200ft/lb and it still came loose

Or, my memory is wrong and I actually failed to tighten it. Someone above asked "don't you have a checklist? you fucking idiot!"

No and yes.

Next time I will.

The reason I asked bout a checklist is because, if memory serves, I saw you had some sort of checklist or todo list.

Anyway don't beat yourself up over this. We all make some interesting booboos. I remember working on the front brakes once and was installing all new rotors and pads and somehow, on one side, I put the pads on backwards. For one week before I finally revisited the brakes, I was hearing all sorts of interesting sounds coming from the brakes. I distinctly remember the words "Holy crap, what an idiot." coming to mind.

demetk wrote:The reason I asked bout a checklist is because, if memory serves, I saw you had some sort of checklist or todo list.

Anyway don't beat yourself up over this. We all make some interesting booboos. I remember working on the front brakes once and was installing all new rotors and pads and somehow, on one side, I put the pads on backwards. For one week before I finally revisited the brakes, I was hearing all sorts of interesting sounds coming from the brakes. I distinctly remember the words "Holy crap, what an idiot." coming to mind.

Thanks for the support demetk. Just in case any one is really wondering about my mental state, I am not that upset. The primary reason we built that engine was to learn. Some learn by reading. Some learn by listening. Some learn by watching. I learn by doing.

cek wrote:...Just in case any one is really wondering about my mental state...

i think we already have an idea.

Thank you Blunt:


Thank you Strictly BMW:


But, as it turns out I probably didn't need that nut because, I just happened to see this:


I just assumed it had previously fallen out and was lost. But now it's clear that it was the nut that destroyed the fan, not just the washer. I'm glad it didn't dent the underside of the hood!

Regardless, I'm using the new one. I actually should have another used one somewhere (two donor motors) but I can't find it among all my parts.

I have now convinced myself that I never REALLY torqued this nut down. I would have remembered having to use something to prevent the engine from turning, because that much torque turns the motor even if the motor is in gear and the brakes are on. It is also enough to break the 3/8" to 1/2" socket adapter I have. I tried using the shorter 3/8" socket today because the longer one won't fit with the radiator in.


For now I got to 180ft/lbs before the adapter broke. I won't be driving the car before Tuesday and I've ordered a shorter 36mm socket from Amazon that will allow the torque wrench in there.

I am kinda suprised that the radiator does not have a hole in it from the fan shrapnel.

didn't you have a checklist?

leadphut wrote:didn't you have a checklist?

Checklist this.

Charlie.

Just spent the better part of the afternoon reading this from beginning to end.

First, your garage is pure tits, I would give my left nut for that lift.

Second, kudos on the engine build. Crank nut issue pretty minor in my mind. Did my first engine build in 1968. Try leaving out a retaining c-clip for a wrist pin.

I bought a 1987 535is new and had it for about 5 years. Lachsilber, otherwise like yours. My all time favorite BMW. Had a 528e at the same time that my wife drove. This brings back some really good memories, thanks for your posts.

BTW, recently helped a buddy reassemble his 3.2 Carrera engine. Valve guides were toast also, about 80k miles.

After dinner, going to read about your B35 build.

dlearl wrote:First, your garage is pure tits, I would give my left nut for that lift.

I have lost several left nuts in my garage. Or maybe they were collar nuts, I am not sure I know the difference.

Thanks for the kind words. Enjoy your dinner.

On this day in 1986 the BMW plant in Dingolfing Germany gave birth to Vlad. Please wish him a happy birthday.

He's probably pissed I didn't drive him today.

Happy Birthday Vlad!! I'm sure he's okay with getting a little attention under the hood instead.

cek wrote: He's probably pissed I didn't drive him today.

You are so cruel.

So curious minds want to know. Did you get the the crank nut issue addressed and are the oil leaks squared away?

Ah, yes. I got the right socket and torqued the nut to 325ftlbs.

I have been driving Vlad this week. His PO is in town, and we're trying to get together so he can see what I've done to his baby.

I
have not have not had a chance to put him up on the lift to double check, but I'm confident its still leaking at the rear. But now I don't think I'll have to pull the engine, just the transmission.

Does the jack on your lift run on a "trolley" so that it can be moved for and aft? If so, can it provide assistance with pulling the transmission?

Course you could plan on pulling it when your son is home for Christmas break

dlearl wrote:Does the jack on your lift run on a "trolley" so that it can be moved for and aft? If so, can it provide assistance with pulling the transmission?

Course you could plan on pulling it when your son is home for Christmas break

It does, but I also have a tall transmission jack. My real motivation for getting it done is the shifter though. I really hate the UUC. I don't know if I can stand to wait until Thanksgiving for help from CJ. :-\

What brand is the lift? I really want one and I really like that jack option.

dlearl wrote:What brand is the lift? I really want one and I really like that jack option.

Lift is Backyard Buddy. Jack is BendPak. Gory details here: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/show ... hp?t=91428

Even more here: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/show ... hp?t=91146

Just met with Vlad's PO. He was on his way to the airport to head back to Santa Barbara and I was able to sneak out of work just long enough to meet with him and show him Vlad.

It was fun having him oogle over all I've done to the car. Even better that we've kept in touch. Such a great hobby.