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thanks Charlie

How cool is it that I'm on a plane flying to Romania, home of Vlad the Impaler? Several Vlad and Dracula books loaded on the Kindle...

kind of a crummy little monument....IMHO. You'd think it would be more impressive.

2 5's and a 7 wrote:kind of a crummy little monument....IMHO. You'd think it would be more impressive.

Frankly the whole history of Romania is pretty meh. Vlad is actually a bright spot and he was totally mis-represented and then got thrown in with a total bullshit Dracula story.

If you've been following along here and on my M30B35 thread you'll know that Vlad has always run lean.

The M30B34 showed lean in dyno runs. I've been struggling with the M30B35 tune as well with some odd pinging and no matter how much fuel I added to my maps I really couldn't make it go away. Also, when comparing my tune to another tune (thanks Tim!) for an identically built engine (10:1 compression, Paul Burke N21 cam, headers, ...) my fuel numbers were SIGNIFICANTLY higher (160-180 compared to 147 in the Miller WAR software).

I have been putting off replacing my fuel filter and pump because I wanted to drop my gas tank and put in a new one since it's bent. The fuel pump in this car was replaced by the PO at 100k and the filter at 158 (car has 180,800 now). In retrospect I should have replaced both when I first got the car, but I mistakenly thought the service interval for fuel filters was 30k. It looks like it's 20k.

Anyway, today I bit the bullet and replaced both. I used a new Bosch pump and a BMW OE fiter. I did not replace the in-tank pump yet.




I hooked up the Innovate wideband, tweaked one of my tunes for lower fuel (what Tim's tune used), and went for a longish drive (to buy a 3.25LSD for maytag from a guy).

With a lower-fuel tune, I didn't hear any pinging (except when really lugging under 1800 rpm). My WOT AFRs were RICH (10-12 instead of just close to 12.8). I need to do some more testing to be sure, but I think this really was my issue. I don't know if it was the pump or the filter.

Tomorrow I'm going to dial back my adjustable fuel regulator from 4.0 bar to 3.0 bar and see what happens. Brody from Miller insists that I should not need more than 3.0 bar for this build (even though Paul Burke said I probably would). Tim's engine runs fine with a 3.0 bar regulator. If it runs well I'm going to yank the adjustable unit off... I have a sneaking suspicion it may be causing ANOTHER problem I'm seeing with some slight hesitation at P/T under heavy load at about 4500 rpm.

If your in tank pump is old, I would go ahead and do it now and set your final tune. I found them for around 100 locally at either advanced or autozone. Did all mine at once and it resolved several issues.

Rich in Tupelo wrote:If your in tank pump is old, I would go ahead and do it now and set your final tune. I found them for around 100 locally at either advanced or autozone. Did all mine at once and it resolved several issues.

I have a replacement on hand already. I was planning on replacing my tank too (it's dented). Replacing the in-tank pump was behind that. Now I'm just going to lower the tank enough to get the hoses out (they need to be replaced too).

I've done a couple of tanks. Tricky but not too bad. If you're just doing the hoses, tie your new hose to the old stuff and pull thru from the bottom. Then cut at the top for appropriate length. At least, that's worked for me when I've done it in the past.

The problem is, I have this replacement tank I bought that I want to clean up and restore. I just don't really have the time (or motivation) to do it. New OE tanks are soooo expensive.

Last one I bought was under 300 shipped to the house from the dealer. But, that was 9 years ago.

Good luck.

Blunt says they are $560.

Price a new battery now versus 9 years ago.

The single high-pressure in-tank pump has been the best solution for 4 of my cars to date.
It was an easy swap and the future swap for failed pumps will be a 15 - 20 minute job as opposed to...

And Rich is right, it's fairly easy to pull the new hose in as you pull the old one out. BTDT too.

Anyone know, off hand, how long the fuel lines are that go from the in-tank-pump to the out-of-tank-pump are? I want to make sure I have enough.

One meter in each size is more than enough.

Thanks Kyle. Real OEM only shows 8x13 as used?!?

I'm thinking 8mm and 12mm are the sizes needed.

12x18mm for the feed hose, 8x13 for the return and from the main pump to filter and filter to hard line. Vent hoses are 6x11.

Charlie, I've got a question about your wideband setup - it looks like the IE headers have only one O2 bung, did you have a second one put in to install the wideband O2 sensor separately, or are you running the Motronic off of the wideband sensor only?

Still enjoying reading both builds over and over, and your garage is epic!

Stevo12 wrote:Charlie, I've got a question about your wideband setup - it looks like the IE headers have only one O2 bung, did you have a second one put in to install the wideband O2 sensor separately, or are you running the Motronic off of the wideband sensor only?

Still enjoying reading both builds over and over, and your garage is epic!

I had a second bung welded in.

Thanks!

I don't want to show my true maturity level by asking if a bung is placed on the surface or in a hole.

I refuse to ask.

Vlad now has a Walbro 255LPH in-tank fuel pump.

See, no standard pump:


Here's what it looks like; built around the OE carrier:



This is the most helpful thread on the subject, BTW: http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=101410

cek wrote: [/url]

It's dirty down there.

I know, and I don't need reminding.

You are not a nice person.