MyE28.com

I'll pull a bunch of them from the local place and see which fits the best.

Cut and threaded the rod on the hydroboost...testing it all in there.


Fitting up to the pedal...pin is in but not pushed in all the way as it will have to come back out.




sound deadening on the firewall


covered with some heat reflection stuff


Still need to add a little bit over on the drivers side.

The list is getting pretty short. Engine can go back in soon.

How I left the garage today...
Brought my 2002 home today...been in storage sense last fall...who knows why. Driving it home made me remember how fun it is. I like driving it the most during the fall anyway.

Waiting on a couple things before the engine can go back in....also went back to my day job this past week...well sorta. K-12 band teacher...kids start next Tuesday. Hard to go back every year.

Got a belt for the new belt routing...and I only got one belt at the auto store and it was right the first time around. Tensioner still have a lot of adjustment if the belt stretches a bit.



Alignment of the belt. I rolled the engine over about 5 times and it seems to track straight.


Tensioner bolts to the waterpump and then two threaded standoffs that are welded to a plate that bolts to the drivers side head.



idler


The mount off the head will be replaced with a threaded stand off. What is there was just to mock this. You can see the two spacers that go from the plate to the waterpump.






The reason for moving the alternator was a couple reasons. One to be able to gain space down low for exhaust on the drivers side and second to be able to reuse the truck accessories.

Btw this will have AC....AC fittings and new crossflow condenser came this week.

The e12 uses flare fittings on everything so I had to get adapters to go from flare to the new O-ring style.


Coming off the drier (new one waiting) will be the GM AC pressure switch and the high side port.

Condenser mounted using the stock e12 mounts up top and a couple small brackets on each side near the bottom. You can sorta see the brackets down low.



Started on the engine harness.

I took all the split loom off a couple weeks ago...looks like this.


Then go through and take off most of the tape so everything can be split apart.


Then I de-pin both PCM connectors.
First the blue.


Then the red


All the wires that will get rehooked to the connectors are labeled with the connector color, pin number, and function. Removed wires are just pulled out.

Next step is to pull all the wires apart...remove unneeded circuits. Reroute it...on and on. More pics and details to come.

jakeb wrote: Started on the engine harness.

I took all the split loom off a couple weeks ago...looks like this.


Then go through and take off most of the tape so everything can be split apart.


Then I de-pin both PCM connectors.
First the blue.


Then the red


All the wires that will get rehooked to the connectors are labeled with the connector color, pin number, and function. Removed wires are just pulled out.

Next step is to pull all the wires apart...remove unneeded circuits. Reroute it...on and on. More pics and details to come.

Now I remember why I don't take on these kind of projects.

haha it's a few wires. But really I like the wiring stage..it is pretty relaxing for me actually.

jakeb wrote:haha it's a few wires. But really I like the wiring stage..it is pretty relaxing for me actually.

For me it would be rewarding, if I could complete it, but I'm sure not relaxing.

jakeb wrote:haha it's a few wires. But really I like the wiring stage..it is pretty relaxing for me actually.

I thought I was the only weird one that enjoyed wiring.

I'll post up a thread on the current rewiring project....a 52 Packard 200...a new harness was hacked in, half the stuff doesn't work, there's a parasitic draw, an electric fuel pump , and a battery cutoff switch mounted to the floor . I pushed on a few wires to move them slightly and one came out of the poorly crimped terminal

The belt routing seems a bit off to me though. I think the original routing had the belt wrapping around 2/3 of the crank, 1/2 of the water pump and then onto the P/S. Your solution should be adequate, my only "maybe" scenario would be P/S related belt squeal, doubtful, but just a maybe. Doesn't look like there's much choice either way, would the belt interfere with anything if it went from the tensioner straight over to the alternator? Regardless, millions of vehicles with vbelts ran the accessories with far less contact area. When comparing the contact surface area between a 1 inch section of vbelt versus a 6 rib serpentine, you have roughly twice the surface area making contact.

How is the tensioner sprung? Is the index mark on the arm between the marks on the base? I like the idea of the idler pulley to increase the belt wrap on the crank.

Love the work so far....

Thanks guys...not sure why I like wiring so much. I think it still gives me that puzzle research part but is a lot less dirty.

After some discussion over at BF.c I changed the belt routing a bit. Some guys over there said that the tensioner should be the last thing in the line of accessories. After looking at a bunch of other setups I couldn't find any with the tensioner not at the end of the line.

Also the tensioner was sprung in a way that the engine could actually possibly un tension it.

So....new routing it was. Belt is a lot shorter. The bracket on the alternator is just temporary as the tension is only held with one bolt right now. Waiting on a new one from the waterjet.



Also worked a bit more on the wiring...I pull the harness all apart to reroute it. Pull out circuits I do not need and also make sure all the wires are in good shape.

So after labeling all the pins as I did before. Next step is to just start pulling out each circuit. Putting ones I keep in one pile and ones not needed in another pile...

Keep pile...the rats nest over to the right is the injector and coil harness. No reason to pull that all apart



The unneeded pile...there are a few other stray wires not needed but this is most of them.

The e12 uses a mechanical speedometer where the t56 trans does not. I was going back and forth of either getting a electric to mechanical speedo driver or converting to an electric speedo.

Going with the electric speedo....better accuracy...and a odo that can't stop working because of old gears.

VDO speedo and e12 speedo/ VDO speedo has already been pulled out of its housing and the glass has been removed.


Remove both needles of the gauges


The needle on the e12 happens to be the same size shaft as on the new electric vdo


I will scan both faces into the computer and edit the e12 face to match the swing on the new vdo gauge.

I know Blunt is at vintagefest in Chicago...wish I was there as well but other commitments wouldn't allow this year.

Haven't had an update in a bit...I am back to my day job now so time is a little limited. We were also waiting for the trans to be gone through. New syncos, fork pads, keys, realigned, and a steel 3-4 shift fork.

Engine should be going back in in the next couple days...

a few pictures of little things getting done

New slave cylinder/release bearing with remote bleeder and hydro line






Removed the wire connector off the skip shift solenoid. The skip shift gets shut off in the software, connector was close to the trans tunnel. It needs to stay now just as a plug.


Ford t56 backup light switch...again for tunnel clearance


Modified hydro boost....also now with an6 fittings


e12 temp sensor rethreaded from m14 to m12 to fit in the passenger side head


Oil dummy light sensor...adapter from m16 to npt and then a sensor from a 89 s10


truck dipstick location plug


Debating if I should jig up the mounts to reproduce.....Keep going back and forth. if anyone is even remotely thinking of wanting a set of mounts for an lsx e12 please let me know....
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Ended up making jigs for engine mounts, trans mount, and drivers side exhaust manifold.

Engine is back in....


A couple close spots in the trans tunnel that had to be opened up.




I did run into one issue...I mocked up the motor mounts with the stock sway bars. We upgraded to ST bars and the ST bar has a slightly different path than the stock bar. So the bar is hitting the oil pan. The engine really couldn't go back any further anyway so we either have to go back to the stock bar or move the ST bar.

The two bars stacked...


So if I push the bar forward just a bit everything will clear the pan. I will make some mounts sorta like the e28 m5 off the frame rail.


I may have to get some different end links to keep everything lined up correctly.

Cut open the hole in the trans tunnel for the shifter. I will make an adapter to allow the screw on BMW knob to go back on and be centered in the surround.


Can anyone guess what this is? It's new...


The list is getting shorter

So because of the sway bar situation I have been working on moving it so it clears the oil pan and exhaust. Here are some pictures and I have a couple questions if anyone has suggestions....

Ok so here is what I am thinking for the new mount. It is a 2" square that will get welded to the frame rail.




So becasue I have to push the bar forward about 3" from the stock location the bar arms and end link mounting holes are not lined up with the holes in the control arm.





So I am trying to figure out how to connect everything. I have a few different ideas/options. If anyone has another idea let me know or if one over the other would be better again let me know.

First idea is to use some heavy duty swing fittings on both the sway bar and the control arm with a rod in between.

The swivel would be like this...

and then setup like this...


The second idea is to put a solid rod end in the control arm, a spacer, and then a swivel heim joint with a bolt and spacer up to the control arm.

Solid rod end like this.


Setup like this...


Or finally extend the bar with some steel and use a straight connection down to the control arm.
like this...


I know if the arm length is longer that the stiffness of the bar goes down.
I found a calculator and the stock bar is around 216 in/lbs rate, new bar is 443 in/lbs
If I were to extend the arm length by about 3" the rate goes down to 310 in/lbs


Any suggestions / help would be great

It looks like rotating the bar ends down toward the lower control arm would also gain you some room in the center section and allow you to move the bar back/up. They don't need to be that far away from the control arm, in fact some cars mount the ends directly to the lower arm. You might try that...just flip the bar over and the ends would be mounted under the control arms. Either way a universal sway bar link kit (bolt, spacer, washers and bushings) could make the connection. Be sure to check any planned installation at ride height and compressed for clearance.

I will give that a try...I think it might run into the exhaust then though....

Small update...
Here is the difference between an LS1 intake and LS6 intake. The LS6 is on the left. They look the same on the top but on bottom the LS6 is flat...it is bigger on the inside and good for 15-20hp on it's own.



On the engine


Power steering/hydroboost lines are made


Other things done or at least figured out but no pictures of...
throttle cable
power steering/hydroboost return lines (they have to T into each other)
Drivers side exhaust manifold bolted on for the last time (I love putting things on for the last time)

Saturday lunchtime update.

Hard to really get pictures of this..but it all the high pressure lines from the power steering pump to the steering rack and the hydroboost. The T you see here is the return from the steering box and then from the hydroboost.



Lines coming off steering box


Connection at the pump


Oxygen sensor bungs tacked in...just need to fully weld
Drivers side..


Passenger side...added an extra here in case I want to log some data with my wideband and HP tuners.


Shifter coming up through...using the stock camaro stuff for now.

Plugging away...

O2 bungs fully welded and the remainder of the exhaust is painted with high temp paint.



Throttle cable bracket


Where it connects to the e12 lever. The throttle lever on the e12 normally is much lower and pointing down. It actually pushes when you push down on the pedal and uses a bunch of linkages up to the throttle body. For it to work with a cable it needed to pull... I was able to rotate it so the arm was pointing up and make it into a puller.



Then it loops around the intake.


Where it hooks to the throttle body


The coil for cylinder #7 had to be moved a little bit


GTO engine covers...they will need a little trimming on the drivers side to fit but they should work nicely

Looking slick as usual. Can't wait to see a video of this beast tearing through some gears. Keep it up Jake!

thanks man!

Started on putting the engine harness back together.

Lay it back on the engine and start plugging wires in.



Pull them together and tape every time a wire goes in or out of the loom.


Just keep going along


That's a lot of wires....


Looking better....

Took today to try to wrap it up....wiring is taking longer than I expected. But progress none the less.

I laid the harness back out on the engine....now off the engine and repinned to the connectors. Looking like the PCM will reach into the glovebox.



Rewrapping the harness


Laying it back out on the engine








Still more to clean up...wires can be tied into the e12 harness now..


The extra fuse/relay box.



Intake is coming together


Now I wasn't expecting that filter was going to be that big....

Both of these filters have a 3.5" inlet.... The one on the right really isn't that small either.


The filter I ordered is just about the same size as my head.

More wiring....engine side is done and all wrapped up for the most part. Still need to connect the grounds. Next up I can tie the LSx harness into the BMW harness. The e12 has some weird wiring so I am trying to track down where the fuel pump feeds from.

Some pictures....

Made the hole bigger going into the car


PCM connectors reach without extending wires!! very good
You can also see the wires separated coming from the extra fuse box.


You can't really see but where the wires turn towards the inside of the car I make some little marks with a marker so I can keep things lined up.



Then just like a cooking show...20 minutes in the oven and we are done


OBDII Port and other wires that will go into the cabin, CEL, VSS signal for speedo, power/ground for speedo, and one extra power line. (wideband for tuning if needed)


Wires over at the drivers side where they will tie into the fuse box. coolant temp, oil psi, tach, fuel pump, 12v switched, start signal


Just another angle showing the routing.

Looks like its almost ready to run!

jakeb wrote: That's a lot of wires....

I think I'd rather have a tooth pulled.

Yes it is getting really close to being able to fire it up