MyE28.com

Thanks Adam-

Yes- looks like everything should line up- The USA is about 2 gal smaller than the EU tank, Here is the difference


I took the opportunity to do some under carriage cleaning while the tank and pumps are out. Not a fun job in the driveway with just jack stands and a garden hose, but the results were nice.


before:

Tank went in pretty smoothly, You can see the gap that is left with the USA tank in there. Ended up with new evap hoses while I was there ( found some nice oem style braided ones at Bel Metric)

Also blew some compressed air through the hard lines to make sure nothing was blocking. Did the fuse 1 and 4 jump to test and not only could I hear the pumps and fuel rail filling, but could here the bladder in the pressure regulator squealing as the pressure built up. Tried the fire party again, and still could hear and feel that CYL 1 was not firing....After checking voltage at the wiring, and impedance of the injector and both were good I decided to replace the injector- Quick delivery of the 24lb injector from Five-O, popped that in yesterday and sure enough- all were firing and warming up. Stoked. Now moving on to the drive line.





evap action:



New Voltage regulator also in for good measure.

Little sound with the story:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IFY6AZCVbuc


Just long tube headers on, and higher flow afe filter...

Working on the rear end... I traded the 3.46s to Sammy for a 3.07s that Pavel was nice enough to bring to the Vintage for me. 3.07's are what the Europe Hartge H5S cars came with, in the USA they had 3.25's and some had 3.46's.

This one sounds like it is also out of an 82 Euro 635CSI- The rear cover has a center mount, not side-and cover like to be an inch or so longer than the one I had, and also extra cover that Jim offered me for it. After a little cleaning and painting, went to line up new cover and it lines up except for the bottom two holes.

So this body is an (early, coarse spline column) 1985 528, anyone know if can use the center mount rear cover that came on it, or is there a larger size, side mount cover that I should look for? Sounds like the standard is a 185 size gear, and the 3.7 sounds like it might be large case or 210 gear size.

Oil covered one is original to the diff:

You had a bit of bad luck. Really early 188 diffs have a bigger case than the later more well known 188 diffs. All type 188 diffs till ~ 9/82 have the older bigger case. From 9/82 the little bit smaller well known type 188 diff case was used.

The bigger 188 diffs were only used in e24 and e28 till ~9/82, as to my knowledge.

The problem is, there is only a cover with a center mount for the older, bigger 188 diff. There was never a left mount cover for the old big 188 case.

e28s till 9/84 used the center mount, from 9/84 the left mount was used.

greetings from bavaria,
Wolfgang

Very good intel Wolfgang, Thank you for posting.

My production date was July 3, 1985 so I need a side mount. A 3.25s has become available, and likely going that route. I could possibly swap the gears over from the larger med case to the regular med case, but the path of least resistance is calling. Thank you Jim, Ben, Sammy, and Pavel regarding-

So, even though there is much to do, I felt like giving it a bath for the first time in years- I guess it was looking more off white. I was so excited to see a cleaner car ( still more nooks and cranny cleaning to do) I went ahead and replaced the pass fender- I'm ditching the federalized markers, and that one had two dents plus transport damage- so adios. Also busted out the Lemon Simple Green, brush, and hottest water out of the tap for some wheel well cleaning while it was opened up. New fender line up pretty good for just with two bolts in it. I still want to do some sort of preventative coating on inside of fender while its off.

And to my dogs, and neighbor's with a newborn's joy- I warmed her up a bit, and let the temp build in the motor. Needle went over middle, then lower hose finally got hot and then the needle settled back to middle. Thinking about exhaust options, but happy with the sound of this high comp motor.

"Drive that Bitch!"

I'm looking at that LBK and see that the rotors are screaming for a drive to clean them off. You can see that the painted hats are holding up well to the NE weather abuse but the braking surface is supposed to be shiny and that is done with regular buffing with brake pads. Those pads need to be rubbing that rotor so the smooth comes back to replace the rust.

Little steps, coming along and it will be nice. Good work.

Thanks to Motronic, and BenGerman- I secured this 3.25S - did a bunch of cleaning up on it, and Jim let me use this shiny rear cover that he cleaned up- Gracias!

before:





after:





Yesterday was able to install the driveshaft, differential, axles with new hardware- and threw on the Type A wheels. It was pretty cool to fire it up, and actually move it back and forth under its own power.

Trunk seal time. This car has a small ( typical) corrosion spot below the rear glass, and a very tired trunk seal. Between that, the hole, and weak light seals- water was getting in the trunk.





Was able to get the old seal off, and spent alot of time removing what looked like gorilla glue in the seal track. Given this being a weak area on these cars- i am trying to do this once ( for now) and go for as close to frog's behind as possible.

I decided to spray the channel with Eastwood's rust preventative spray too, which comes in White which is nice. Removing the trunk lid sure makes things easier for glue removal and prep:






















New seal on! Next day, secured rear of seal and corners with Black Silacone:



and besides the new seal- registered and insured this Bish! Transferred my old school (rear only) MA plate to it, and used a e46 plate bracket to attach it to the euro rear mount holes ( thanks Chris K for idea)



Time to tighten up the suspension and steering, was able to borrow some Carrera GT blocks from work, and bought some 70 pound sand bags from Lowe's to weight the car down:



Also started playing with exhaust a little, added the connector pipes to the headers- this shows the different lengths they are- will try to make up the difference with the connecting pipes before the resonator

Switching over to words and dollar amounts

Trunk is in very good condition compared to handful of cars I have seen so far.

Did some more fender cleaning, replaced the valve cover gasket with the reinz style gasket- these seem to seal the valve cover a little better.









After running the motor a bit, and decided to change the oil to have fresh oil sitting until spring, glad I did. The oil was pretty dark in the motor. i will do it again in the spring and add break-in additives back in...



Yesterday was able to pull the dash, and the federalized door beams out:




I had no idea these were added, but did notice they seemed like the only things rusting on the car... Thanks Wolf for the heads up! Three came out OK, one had to eventually be cut out. These total 16.8 pounds:







With dash out, found this old fair ticket from one of the previous owners:

Nice progress. Thanks for sharing the pictures. What are you using to clean the underbody and wheel wells, in terms of cleaning tools and chemicals?

Thanks! I am limited to the driveway, and with pets in the yard I was hesitant to use harsh chemicals.

So, I used Simple Green lemon flavor, and the hottest water that would come out of my sink in a wash bucket. Some plastic scrub tools helped out, too.

Looking great!

Curious what you're doing for antenna since the hole was filled?

Hey LJ!

It's actually still a hole! Low on the list, but not sure if I'm going to run a standard antenna- or the front roof mount setup like this on the slicktop:



looking into removing the headliner, anyone know the trick to removing from these side inserts?

You rotate the Rods downward and they will come out. You don't remove the rubber grommet. Als the front and rear glass have to come out for the headliner.

Happy New Year to all! This new year has come with some serious weather that will slow me down a bit, but progress will be made anywhere I can. Next up will be suspension, starting with the easier rear. Also organizing the basement is in order- starting to get messy with trim pieces. And as soon as I can, pulling the brake booster for a JCS treatment.



The Hartge Santa came! Thank you again to those who have helped acquire parts.



It was a little warmer yesterday ( Blizzard today), so I test fit the exhaust pipes, header to resonator. I asked Tubualr to make the standard S to straight pipes ala cat delete like I had on my other car. I ended up having one side about 4" longer ( just like the header pipes) and one side was way short. New pipe made ( this one floating flange) and checking them together- looks like still need to trim about an 1" off each. Makes sense to do that off the straight end of the S pipes me thinks.





Original rear units out:



For now, installing Billy Sport shocks with RD Green Springs. Keeping an eye out for Hartge Springs- But the RD Green ones should be a suitable.

Edit: Drop is 32mm and rate 275 lb/in. Hartge is 35mm drop and 220-240. Sounding like the firmest spring set out there- I might like having these in this one. Thoughts are welcome.

Removing brake booster for JCS rebuild, those top nuts on the booster will take me a little more to remove. Do most remove the rubber hose off the nipple on the M/C side?



Good time to install a Roth bracket too while I am up in here:



Dream material:



Checking the gears the small one is fried- I'd like to replace just that one so I don't hear any clicking.





New pipe made. $40 bucks from Tubular, and now trimmed. Hope this fits:



Car corner re organized- well enough to make it easier to get to things:

Chimi-Changa wrote:
For now, installing Billy Sport shocks with RD Green Springs. Keeping an eye out for Hartge Springs- But the RD Green ones should be a suitable.

Edit: Drop is 32mm and rate 275 lb/in. Hartge is 35mm drop and 220-240. Sounding like the firmest spring set out there- I might like having these in this one. Thoughts are welcome.

If RD doesn't suite your needs, try Spax. I ran them at undisclosed locations in TX & TN at speeds I'd rather not mention. I couldn't ask for any better & wouldn't want any firmer. A tad stiff for a DD with my tastes, but still way milder than 500# coilovers.

I've heard vacuum is the way to go, but in the essence of time rebuilding my booster for now. Big shout out to Jay Stratton, amazing service level. Thank you. I was able to find a NOS non-abs master- so using that with the freshly rebuilt booster. This was a good time to install a Roth bracket on the pedal box- so that went in too. Alot easier with the interior and dash/console out.











Next up, rear suspension. Went with the lower middle perch on the B8 Sports. The ghetto HF open socket helped, and using a Park three way allen wrench was able to get a good hold on things.







Motronic came over last week and helped with the new heater core, made sense to replace this at this point- Thanks for the help Jim!





This car has a Sofica box, and fan- We had some spare boxes, but not Sofica ones. No issues with the core fitting, with the insulation tape around it









Pulled the wiper linkage while there for the mono-conversion-



Also busted out the soldering gun and re-connected some euro connectors back on to the harness- this way I can use the factory caps, and rubber cover.

Nice!

Did you replace the heater resistor pack too?

cek wrote:Nice!

Did you replace the heater resistor pack too?

We did not, is that one in the housing on the other side of plug? Recommended? Thanks

side note- Interior is coming from Ivo and should be here next month... Thanks Ivo!

sneak preview:

Chimi-Changa wrote:

cek wrote:Nice!

Did you replace the heater resistor pack too?

We did not, is that one in the housing on the other side of plug? Recommended? Thanks

http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=130884