MyE28.com

That rear window rust is a bummer, I would not have expected that from this car.

I can't believe you haven't sourced new Euro frame horns.

bkbimmer wrote:That rear window rust is a bummer, I would not have expected that from this car.

Been there since I bought it.

Kyle in NO wrote:I can't believe you haven't sourced new Euro frame horns.

Trust me, I've tried.

Glad I bought mine before Obama outlawed them.

My naughty bits are all tingly.

cek wrote:

bkbimmer wrote:That rear window rust is a bummer, I would not have expected that from this car.

Been there since I bought it.

I wasn't suggesting you had a corrosive personality.

Ken came by this afternoon and we discussed.

First, we're going with Glasurit 22 line single stage paint http://www.refinish.basf.us/glasurit_paintsystems.

Still a big debate on whether I repaint the hood or not. It doesn't *really* need it but it sort of does. If you know what I mean.

I showed him pics of various other jobs including Paul & Joel Daniel's and the M535i photos Chris shared. We now know exactly where to cut the donor frame rail ends and so-forth. He's going to make the beat up donors look purdy.

He's going to come by tomorrow and start the metal work. He's going to do the rough body work in my garage, which is damn cool because if I'm lucky I can be home when he's doing it and watch!

This means I had to complete my part of the prep tonight. Starting with pulling everything off the rear panel.

The PO had a failed attempt to install a remote trunk release. After he replaced the trunk gasket the release didn't work...it wasn't strong enough. I disconnected all the wiring when I baselined the car, but didn't pull out the actuator. Here's what one looks like.



Ready to go. I noticed that the Euro rear panel only has two holes (centered vertically) for the license plate. Glad I noticed. Ken will fill these and drill 4 holes as in the US panel.



I really don't want to do it, because of the waste, but I think I have to crack open the AC to get this line out of the way. We've got to cut and weld all around that frame rail end, and I just don't see any way to get the line out of the way without opening the circuit. Bleh.



Got the PS cooling loop off...I was able to minimize the mess created through creative application of paper towels and a bucket. Had a little rubber cap that fits just right to keep more from pooping out. Will have to warn Ken about this since I believe ATF is flammable and that cap will likely melt if he's not careful.

cek wrote:
Ready to go. I noticed that the Euro rear panel only has two holes (centered vertically) for the license plate. Glad I noticed. Ken will fill these and drill 4 holes as in the US panel.

Don't make more work for yourself or K-K-K-K-Ken. There are lots of options out there for a bracket that allows you to mount a US plate. Ever heard of Volvos? They are probably the single greatest source for these since it's a nice, flat unobtrusive bracket and it has four studs on it and you can use nice-looking acorn nuts. There are also the E12 brackets if you're all about using BMW parts.

If you're going to drill four holes in it, you may as well just do it the way most people do it and just use the bottom.

Also, if you plan to drive that car or run it, you'll be in for a surprise with your cap system. The idea of the cooling loop is that it's a loop. It essentially turns your return line into a gigantic return line that happens to pop by the front of the car for some air on it's way back. It needs to be a loop. In other words, those two pipes need to be connected. Even the Stereo MC's had this figured out. The writing is definitely on the wall.

You sure don't waste any time. I hope one day I can revisit this thread for the sole purpose to use it as a guide for my future improvements.

Can't wait to see the final outcome.

Also, it doesn't sound like you are having him spray the entire car? I'm just curious why? The cost savings? To keep the originality? It seems like you care a lot about your paint and body work to NOT have it completely refreshed when the chance is there and it's all torn down the way it is. Just curious is all. Either way, the car is going to look fuggin fantastic when it's done.

wkohler wrote:

cek wrote:
Ready to go. I noticed that the Euro rear panel only has two holes (centered vertically) for the license plate. Glad I noticed. Ken will fill these and drill 4 holes as in the US panel.

Don't make more work for yourself or K-K-K-K-Ken. There are lots of options out there for a bracket that allows you to mount a US plate. Ever heard of Volvos? They are probably the single greatest source for these since it's a nice, flat unobtrusive bracket and it has four studs on it and you can use nice-looking acorn nuts. There are also the E12 brackets if you're all about using BMW parts.

If you're going to drill four holes in it, you may as well just do it the way most people do it and just use the bottom.

Also, if you plan to drive that car or run it, you'll be in for a surprise with your cap system. The idea of the cooling loop is that it's a loop. It essentially turns your return line into a gigantic return line that happens to pop by the front of the car for some air on it's way back. It needs to be a loop. In other words, those two pipes need to be connected. Even the Stereo MC's had this figured out. The writing is definitely on the wall.

I put a temporary rubber hose loop in place this morning. I had this same thought last night. At about 2am.

Roger on the license plate. Good advice.

unt0uchable wrote:You sure don't waste any time. I hope one day I can revisit this thread for the sole purpose to use it as a guide for my future improvements.

Can't wait to see the final outcome.

Also, it doesn't sound like you are having him spray the entire car? I'm just curious why? The cost savings? To keep the originality? It seems like you care a lot about your paint and body work to NOT have it completely refreshed when the chance is there and it's all torn down the way it is. Just curious is all. Either way, the car is going to look fuggin fantastic when it's done.

The cost of a whole repaint will be A LOT more than just what we're doing. Plus I want to keep it as original as possible.

cek wrote:The cost of a whole repaint will be A LOT more than just what we're doing. Plus I want to keep it as original as possible.

Understood. I didn't read back far enough to see what WAS getting fresh paint, so I assume it's just the facelift items, ie: nose panel, rear panel, etc. Afterall, your paint is extraordinary as is. But as good as you like it to look, I figured you'd want more to paint to buff on. lol

Can't wait!!

Hopefully the new SS paint comes close to matching without re-spraying the whole car. Keep up the good work.

bkbimmer wrote:Hopefully the new SS paint comes close to matching without re-spraying the whole car. Keep up the good work.

I think we're going to do some testing first. One nice thing about pulling the rear panel is that it can be used to test, right?

I came home to a lot of metal filings. Yay!













I contributed by firing up the blast cabinet. Just got part of one done. Ken did an initial straightening and has some more pounding out to do.



While I was blasting, Ken was doing more cutting. Test fit. I think we're on the right track.



I'll see if I can sneak up to the garage later tonight and do more blasting, but time to show the boss some love.

What a great thread, fun to watch the progress.

cek wrote:

bkbimmer wrote:Hopefully the new SS paint comes close to matching without re-spraying the whole car. Keep up the good work.

I think we're going to do some testing first. One nice thing about pulling the rear panel is that it can be used to test, right?

Yes, but it is still tough to match original paint. I'm sure he will do a fine job though.

Couple more shots of the frame rail ends with the US bumper mounts and toe hooks removed. Pics like this would have helped me understand this, so I hope others can benefit.





Got the euro frame rail ends and toe hooks all media blasted.





Test fit. Per Paul Daniel's suggestions we will just just screw them into place first and test that everything is aligned, then remove and weld.

As mentioned above Ken will also straighten them so they are like new.









Kinda bummed I have to work late tomorrow. I'm going to miss a lot of Ken's doings. I suspect by the time I get home he'll have the new rear panel tacked in...

Sometimes it's good not watching sausage being made. Especially if your sausage-maker doesn't like being watched.

wkohler wrote:Sometimes it's good not watching sausage being made. Especially if your sausage-maker doesn't like being watched.

Yea, well *I'm* different and not annoying. I'm sure he LOVES my company. Haha.

I upgraded my CCTV cameras in the garage with a PTZ version. It's almost like I'm there.

cek wrote:I upgraded my CCTV cameras in the garage with a PTZ version. It's almost like I'm there.

Do us a favor and post up the web feed link, and we can all be there!

Make sure you get some weld through primer on your bare metal areas that will be closed up.

joel323 wrote:Make sure you get some weld through primer on your bare metal areas that will be closed up.

Given Ken's experience, I'm pretty sure he'll do this, but I will politely ask him to make sure.

Adam W in MN wrote:

cek wrote:I upgraded my CCTV cameras in the garage with a PTZ version. It's almost like I'm there.

Do us a favor and post up the web feed link, and we can all be there!

Now that would be cool!

unt0uchable wrote:

Adam W in MN wrote:

cek wrote:I upgraded my CCTV cameras in the garage with a PTZ version. It's almost like I'm there.

Do us a favor and post up the web feed link, and we can all be there!

Now that would be cool!

Theoretically the camera in question can have a public streaming link, but the way my home network is configured makes It hard to setup.

Here's what was going on about 2 minutes ago. Looks like he's using my grinder or wire wheel...



He also texted me this: