MyE28.com

That looks more like a porn-viewing position to me.

Fascinating. As the light dims in the garage and this CCTV camera starts doing it's low-light compensation (with IR illumination) paint differences become visible.



I knew that part of the driver's side had been previously painted. It was disclosed by the PO. And when I did my initial paint correction on the car, I determined that it wasn't just the driver's door (where the dent was) but the front fender and both doors. This photo confirms it. No other photos of the car I've taken have shown this, and it is certainly not obvious even under very close inspection (except by paint experts like bkbimmer and Ken).

Never really thought that IR might be a good tool for inspecting a car to see if it's been painted.

That is really cool. I have a Seek Thermal IR cam for my iPhone that does some cool stuff, but it can't do a combo visible/ IR shot like you have there. It will do separate visible (from the phone camera) and IR and do an overlay, but that won't show what you are seeing.

I am envious of your garage.

-tammer

Update...

















Do the rear bumper brackets just get held on by nuts and washers to the sheet metal of the rear panel?!?! That's it??? Does anyone have a picture of the rear of a euro car with the rear panel removed?


What are these holes for in the rear panel? Ventilation? I've always been curious.

Vladlena

the bumpers are pretty lightweight and they really aren't going to anything for protection in the event of an accident, so yeah they are held on by nuts and washers. However on a US car that hasn't been cut out, there are support frames from the car that are almost directly in line with where they mount so it has good reinforcement in that area. The "mounting kit" that you should have ordered with the bumpers will have everything you need.

Does anyone have a picture of the rear of a euro car with the rear panel removed?

This might help - not sure if you're looking for one with the rear bumper/Mtech kit removed, or the middle metal panel as in your project. Pardon the dirt as this was "BC" (before cleaning):

5280 JB wrote:

anyone know where to get these license plate brackets?

E12s...

Is it these brackets Chris?

Yes. NLA, unfortunately.

Here's where I found things Thursday night. I didn't have time to post these until now.

Ken had gotten most of the spot welding on the rear panel done. In addition he took the front frame rail brackets to his shop and primered them and worked them over more.

He's being really careful to not have to paint the fender; keeping his work tight to the rear panel.








I've been contemplating pulling the trigger on a Magnaflow 16555 exhaust as I've never been happy with this IE exhaust. Given I have to cut the ends and get it straightened anyway, I figure I might as well (the poor fitting IE exhaust is going to look really obviously crooked now).

Friday Ken got the welding done and started with glass filler. He said he test fit the tail-lights just to make sure...

He also had obtained paint and created a sample card. It looks good to my eye. His eye is better and he agrees, so I think we're good to go...



































My job this weekend is to clean out the trunk seal gutter and remove the hood and clean the underside...I finally bought replacement sound deadening and front seal. I need to find someone to help me get the hood off though, because I don't think can do it alone. Damn my son for going to college .

You can easily remove the hood alone. I have only done it once with help. That said, it's probably better to have two people.

Is he going to remove the brackets for the bumper trim?

wkohler wrote:Is he going to remove the brackets for the bumper trim?

Sam came by today and helped me get the hood off. He's a good guy.

I was thinking of leaving the right bracket on (Ken already removed then left one). I figure it will add a little flair.

Thanks for documenting this part so well, and look forward to the results. Now that I've held on to my euro kit, I am soooooo temped...

I installed one of MagnaFlows cat back systems last week for a customer, it is pretty nice but too quiet for my taste. I think you might like it.

While I have the hood off I'm going to replace the wiper bushings per http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=132532



I also never really deep cleaned around the hood gasket; when I showed the car last summer at the Heritage BMW concours I realized how dirty that was. This will be an opportunity to get in there.

I tore into the hood tonight, getting the old heat shield off.



Used this stuff:



Un-fun, dirty job.





The plastic scraper I used started to mar the paint so I had to slow down. I am going to have Ken paint the underside anyway so it looks totally tits, since he's painting the top...



The washer hoses and stuff are all being replaced too.

wkohler wrote:There are lots of options out there for a bracket that allows you to mount a US plate. Ever heard of Volvos?

I'd appreciate a more specific pointer. On my FJ40 I used one from a 911:



How does the Volvo one compare?

It doesn't cost $500.03

wkohler wrote:It doesn't cost $500.03

$46.75: http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/Sup ... htm#item22

cek wrote:

Hey cek, I would appreciate it if upon completion of your euro bumper swap, you start your 911 backdate project, hehe...

Haha. Unlikely ill backdate my 37k mile, pristine 88 911, but a 914 is on my short list to restore...to a 914-6ish thing.

cek wrote:Couple more shots of the frame rail ends with the US bumper mounts and toe hooks removed. Pics like this would have helped me understand this, so I hope others can benefit.

Yes, Charlie, thank you! Your pictures are an invaluable resource.

Now given your attention to detail, I am curious, why you or your guy Ken felt it was not necessary to brace the quarters and trunk before removing the tail panel? https://sites.google.com/site/straights ... /1982-528e Given my total lack of knowledge on the subject I'd still would be inclined that bracing is a must.

joel323 wrote:Make sure you get some weld through primer on your bare metal areas that will be closed up.

What does accomplish what you recommended above? Pardon me as I don't understand and want to learn. Thank you.