wet trunk
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KKinGateway
- Posts: 13
- Joined: Feb 12, 2006 12:00 PM
Old one should be very easy to remove. I use bare hands, and then maybe some adhesive remover if there is residue left behind. If it is really bad, it can be scraped with a plastic or wood stick.
I recently replaced the seal on my 535i, along with the tail light gaskets. There was less water in there, but not dry yet. It is now wet between the shock towers, under the rear window. My glass guy is dropping by my shop tomorrow to re & re the rear window with a new seal and lock strip. Sunroof drains are clear, so I'm hoping the rear window is the last of the leaks.
I buy a lot of parts from Steve Haygood, including all the afforementioned rubber seals. His price was better than anyone's, and it is nice to support a contributing member of this community.
Al
I recently replaced the seal on my 535i, along with the tail light gaskets. There was less water in there, but not dry yet. It is now wet between the shock towers, under the rear window. My glass guy is dropping by my shop tomorrow to re & re the rear window with a new seal and lock strip. Sunroof drains are clear, so I'm hoping the rear window is the last of the leaks.
I buy a lot of parts from Steve Haygood, including all the afforementioned rubber seals. His price was better than anyone's, and it is nice to support a contributing member of this community.
Al
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Threeshifter
- Posts: 704
- Joined: Feb 12, 2006 12:00 PM
Recently replaced my trunk seal. I used Bavarian Autosports as the supplier but there are others that may have a better deal, they are around $60.
Hard to remove?
I pulled as much of the old seal off as I could by hand. I spent a good amount of time using 3m wax and adhesive remover (bought at auto parts store in the wax/polish area) to get down to the paint.
Dry fit the new seal so that you know it works.
I used 3m weather striping adhesive to attach the new seal. Read the directions on the tube. This was a little tough. 3m weather stripping adhesive is contact cement (like rubber cement). You apply it to both surfaces and let it dry then press the two pieces together. I did not have a good surface to lay the new seal out on while applying the new cement so I got a little messy.
If I were to do it again I might use a black silicone adhesive caulk that would allow you to caulk the trough, set the seal in, work the seal into the correct position and then let it cure over a couple of hours.
I too do not quite have a dry trunk after this. I still need to do the taillight seals and I suspect the window seal also.
I also endorse Haygood.
Hard to remove?
I pulled as much of the old seal off as I could by hand. I spent a good amount of time using 3m wax and adhesive remover (bought at auto parts store in the wax/polish area) to get down to the paint.
Dry fit the new seal so that you know it works.
I used 3m weather striping adhesive to attach the new seal. Read the directions on the tube. This was a little tough. 3m weather stripping adhesive is contact cement (like rubber cement). You apply it to both surfaces and let it dry then press the two pieces together. I did not have a good surface to lay the new seal out on while applying the new cement so I got a little messy.
If I were to do it again I might use a black silicone adhesive caulk that would allow you to caulk the trough, set the seal in, work the seal into the correct position and then let it cure over a couple of hours.
I too do not quite have a dry trunk after this. I still need to do the taillight seals and I suspect the window seal also.
I also endorse Haygood.
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RetiredDoc
- Posts: 1316
- Joined: Feb 12, 2006 12:00 PM
- Location: Aiken SC
http://www.firstfives.org/faq/trunkgask ... asket.html
For the e12, but e28 is almost identiical. HTH
For the e12, but e28 is almost identiical. HTH