front end problems

[kendogg1]

OK, I got my car on a lift today, finally, and while under there, I noticed that I have a drivers side lower ball joint thats loose, but there is something very, very loose. I can pull on either tire, and there is alot of movement, side to side. But, it moves the otehr tire too, but I know it's not right, almost like the idler arms are loose, and allowing the whole drag link, etc to move, or the steering box needs to be tightened up, and thast allowing the shaking? I also have a shake and a rattle in the steering wheel over 50 mpg, it's an audible rattle. Any idea's? It's wearing tires real fast, so I'd like to fix it within the next couple weeks.

Also, somebody told me that I canot replace just the balljoint, that I have to replace the whole control arm, is this true? If it is, is bavauto the best place to get it, or should I just go with a stock one, or is there an upgraded one out there? Thanks guys.

[Blue Shadow]

Use a big set of channel locks and compress each ball joint, replace any that move at all. Any movement-Replace. Actually the steering pieces last about 120K o these cars the left, right and center tie rods and the idler arm are all probably shot if you have a very bad ball joint. Steve haygood has the good stuff at good prices.

[kendogg1]

Well, I'm gonna hve my fellow E28 owner, and best friend, look at it for me this weekend, and tell me just what I need. Chances are, it's all original. He knows steering and suspension stuff very very well, he'll be able to tell whats bad. For some reason, I cna rebuild motors, but that front end stuff simply cannot sink into my head. I don't get it. lol. Thanks, though.

[Rich in Tupelo]

Also, keep in mind that while the channel lock is as good test (gold standard so to speak), it's not foolproof. I've seen ones that needed to go that passed the channel lock. Besure to also check your control arm bushings.

[kendogg1]

Can I replace just the balljoints on this car, or do I have to replace the whole control arm?

[Threeshifter]

As far as I understand, the ball joint is pressed into the control arm in such a way that the entire control arm must be replaced to replace the ball joint. All suppliers that I have seen offer a control arm with ball joint and/or bushing. The ball joint is part of the control arm and the bushing is replaceable with a press fit.

I replaced my entire front end recently. My experience is that when one ball joint goes that dynamic loading really accelerates the wear on other ball joints in the system. 80% of my system was shot. So, in my humble opinion, I would replace all front end stuff that you can afford at, or close to the same time (idle arm, tie rods, center link, etc.). The get an alignment and you will be set for 80K with regular alignments (hopefully).

From what I have read the original upper control arm bushings are not very good and polyurethane bushings are the way to go for the upper control arm. I bought upper control arms with polyurethane bushings from Bavarian Auto but there are other places that may have better deals. The polyurethane bushings are a rougher ride but really add stiffness that I like, and they last longer from reviews that I have read. Replaced my front end stuff in Dec 04 and I have been happy.

Get you wheels balanced often. I bought new tires recently and after 3.5K miles (and a vibe) had them rebalanced with very positive results

Good luck

[Rich in Tupelo]

I would say use the 750i bushing for the uppers rather than the poly's. Not as stiff and harsh and they won't completely fail like some have had thier poly's do.

Rich

[Guest]

do you have to do any modification to the 750i bushings to get em on?

[Shawn D.]

[QUOTE="88 535is south florida"]do you have to do any modification to the 750i bushings to get em on?[/QUOTE]

Yes, they must be machined. There is lots in the archives on the "old" board and on Roadfly about this. IIRC, Steve Haygood also sells the machined ones.

[QUOTE="Rich in Savannah"]I would say use the 750i bushing for the uppers rather than the poly's. Not as stiff and harsh and they won't completely fail like some have had thier poly's do. [/QUOTE]

Sorry, but I have to disagree on this one. The only poly failure I can recall was the one poster who vehemently and repeatedly posted the pics of his failed bushing -- which failed on the NON-THRUST SIDE! On the other hand, many folks have had the E32 bushings fail. It's only one anecdotal experience, but my E32 bushings failed within a year but my "Grunts" poly bushings have lasted nearly three and are still going strong.

[Threeshifter]

I would also suggest that you try to find a ball joint breaker like the one that Bavarian Auto offers rather than a pickle fork. This should enable you to brake the ball joints with out banging the hell out of everything with a hammer.
My job went much smoother with this tool.