Spin on oil filteb adaptors

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bert poliakoff
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Spin on oil filteb adaptors

Post by bert poliakoff »

Brand new spin on oil filter adaptors. They will accept a Fram PH8A which is for a 460 Ford, or any other brand of spin on. It will also accept a large variety of different filters. A complete unit includes the adaptor plate, o ring and threaded bushing for attaching to your original filter head and attaching the spin on itself. I will sell these as follows. If 10 guys step up,I will do $105 shipped. If only 5 guys, $115 shipped anything less than that and the price will be $130 per shipped. I have this out on several other forums and will count all orders towards a group price. Shipping included is for the USA. I will ship anywhere with appropriate shipping charges being paid.

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mooseheadm5
Beamter
Beamter
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Post by mooseheadm5 »

You can email me the pictures. My email is my screen name here at gmail.

Edit: picture added to post.
Last edited by mooseheadm5 on Sep 06, 2013 5:09 PM, edited 1 time in total.
bert poliakoff
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Post by bert poliakoff »

Thank you and sent.
bert poliakoff
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Post by bert poliakoff »

thank you and picture sent
edmon59
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Post by edmon59 »

I'd go for it pending member endorsement. Guys?
-Ed
RonW
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Post by RonW »

So I'm guessing the O-ring goes between the plate and the existing head, and the bushing holds the whole thing together.

The dirty oil goes through the four slots into the base of the filter, through the filter media, then out of the filter down the middle of the bushing.

So what holds the bushing to the head? And how does the oil from the filter get out of it?
wkohler
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Post by wkohler »

What's so hard about using the canister? Spin on filters are messy and annoying.
bert poliakoff
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Post by bert poliakoff »

A matter of choice, or maybe even belief.
bert poliakoff
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Post by bert poliakoff »

RonW wrote:So I'm guessing the O-ring goes between the plate and the existing head, and the bushing holds the whole thing together.The dirty oil goes through the four slots into the base of the filter, through the filter media, then out of the filter down the middle of the bushing.So what holds the bushing to the head? And how does the oil from the filter get out of it?
The bushing is threaded at each end with the proper thread for the filter head and at the other end the spin on filter as well as being hollow as is the factory bushing(tube). So it simply screws into the filter head and replaces the threaded bushing(tube) that is in there now
Murfinator
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Post by Murfinator »

Interested. Do you have any reviews from users of this setup?

Canister filters, whether pointed up or down always seem to make a mess. Spin-on filters, if pointed straight, or nearly straight down seem to be a bit less messy. Plus, there's no need to wipe down the inside of the canister and replace crush washers and o-rings. A matter of preference. Besides, I'm more than a little averse to OE. :)
bert poliakoff
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Post by bert poliakoff »

No reviews. The last time these were available was around 4-5 years ago. Since than, it has been rare to see one available. I found one and just had them replicated. What motivated me was people randomly asking about them on various forums over the years, which made me go through the up front expense and aggravation of providing them again.There is not a logical reason why these will not be efficient as the design is very simple and provides for using the filter from a big block Ford
spinedocab
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Post by spinedocab »

Murfinator wrote: Canister filters, whether pointed up or down always seem to make a mess. Spin-on filters, if pointed straight, or nearly straight down seem to be a bit less messy. Plus, there's no need to wipe down the inside of the canister and replace crush washers and o-rings. A matter of preference. Besides, I'm more than a little averse to OE. :)
FWIW, I have yet to spill one drop from my OE canister filter. I'm about to go out and change the oil on the pretty blue car right now, so if that changes I will advise. But it's been 11 years and several M30-engined cars...

Having said that, it would be nice to have more choices in filtration media than the Mann or Mahle one is likely to find available. I think there are probably some great depth-style media filters available in a spin on design, and THAT might be worth the price of admission.
RonW
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Post by RonW »

RonW wrote:So I'm guessing the O-ring goes between the plate and the existing head, and the bushing holds the whole thing together.The dirty oil goes through the four slots into the base of the filter, through the filter media, then out of the filter down the middle of the bushing.So what holds the bushing to the head? And how does the oil from the filter get out of it?
bert poliakoff wrote:The bushing is threaded at each end with the proper thread for the filter head and at the other end the spin on filter as well as being hollow as is the factory bushing(tube). So it simply screws into the filter head and replaces the threaded bushing(tube) that is in there now
OK, I get that the filter head lets the filtered oil out through the hollow shaft in the center, but in the few pictures I can find online, I don't see any thread on that shaft.
wkohler
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Post by wkohler »

Looks threaded in the original post.
RonW
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Post by RonW »

Murfinator wrote:Canister filters, whether pointed up or down always seem to make a mess. Spin-on filters, if pointed straight, or nearly straight down seem to be a bit less messy. Plus, there's no need to wipe down the inside of the canister and replace crush washers and o-rings. A matter of preference. Besides, I'm more than a little averse to OE. :)
I never wipe the inside of the canister. The canister wall is on the dirty side of the filter, so I don't see the point.
bert poliakoff
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Post by bert poliakoff »

RonW wrote:
RonW wrote:, but in the few pictures I can find online, I don't see any thread on that shaft.
I am sorry the threads don't show up better in the picture, but as I said, the bushing is fully threaded with a different thread at each end. One to screw into the filter head and the other for the filter to thread onto.
RonW
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Post by RonW »

RonW wrote:OK, I get that the filter head lets the filtered oil out through the hollow shaft in the center, but in the few pictures I can find online, I don't see any thread on that shaft.
wkohler wrote:Looks threaded in the original post.
I was referring to the M30 filter head – it doesn't look like it has any threads for the bushing to screw into.
bert poliakoff
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Post by bert poliakoff »

Ron, sticking out from the bottom of the m30 filter head is the factory bushing about an inch or so long. It just looks like a metal tube with a cross hole drilled in it. If you stick a screwdriver into the cross hole you can then turn the "tube" out. You will then see it is threaded on the exterior of one end where it threads into the filter head. The threaded bushing with my adaptor just threads into there and replaces the factory bushing. It is all very simple as all you are actually doing is replacing one part and adding another. This is not a very difficult modification and shouldn't take 10 minutes to do, 20 if you clean everything up while it's apart
Frybrid 524td
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Post by Frybrid 524td »

I'd love something like this for the M21.
RonW
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Post by RonW »

bert poliakoff wrote:Ron, sticking out from the bottom of the m30 filter head is the factory bushing about an inch or so long. It just looks like a metal tube with a cross hole drilled in it. If you stick a screwdriver into the cross hole you can then turn the "tube" out. You will then see it is threaded on the exterior of one end where it threads into the filter head. The threaded bushing with my adaptor just threads into there and replaces the factory bushing. It is all very simple as all you are actually doing is replacing one part and adding another. This is not a very difficult modification and shouldn't take 10 minutes to do, 20 if you clean everything up while it's apart
Ah, I see. So:
• How do you tighten the new bushing? Does it have a cross hole like the old one?
• How do you ensure the new bushing stays in the head instead of unscrewing when you remove an old filter?

(I should say at this point that I have no problem with the regular M30 filter scheme and intend to stick with it – I'm only asking about this stuff because I'm curious.)
bert poliakoff
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Post by bert poliakoff »

Curiosity is good, but logic works also. Try to figure your way through it for a while and if you can't figure something satisfactory out ,I will give you a,reasonable solution
JW in VaBeach
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Post by JW in VaBeach »

How do flow rates and bypass settings compare?
bert poliakoff
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Post by bert poliakoff »

JW ! Easiest way to answer your question is as follows. In a stock filter there is not a bypass provision that I am aware of. If there is one it is in the filter head which is not to be changed, on my adaptor, in any way from original, except the ports are larger . As to flow characteristics, do your research on a Fram HP8a filter, or any brand filter suitable for a Ford 460 engine, and you will be able to get an answer far more sophisticated than I can give you.
///Mflossin
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Post by ///Mflossin »

I can appreciate this piece and it's replication but I see no reason why anybody would choose this configuration. The OE cannister is actually the perfect solution as it contains any dripping oil. If you use a PH8 filter, or any other spin on...they are going to make a MESS.
demetk
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Post by demetk »

I like my b35 filter canister upgrade on the 88'535. I even get oil drain back into the pan when I undo the bolt, making filter removal a dripless process.
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