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The M7 needs stitches. And a question...

General conversations about BMW E28s and the people who own them.
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Kenny Blankenship
Posts: 4926
Joined: Feb 12, 2006 12:00 PM
Location: NNV

The M7 needs stitches. And a question...

Post by Kenny Blankenship »

I did a trial run with the new trailer I bought. This is it:

http://www.carsontrailer.com/subs/trail ... auler.html

If you look at the picture you will notice there is a piece of metal about two inches high on the inside and outside of the ramp "platform" which the car rides on. To make a long story short, the two inside pieces of metal ripped a nice hole in the floor pan on the driver's side and passenger side.

My question is this...what do you think it would cost to repair the damage by welding in a piece to replace the gash? I'm guessing it would have to be about a foot wide by a couple of feet long on both sides.

Don't worry, this won't affect plans for 5er Fest...there will be a temporary fix...
Coldswede
Posts: 6859
Joined: Oct 10, 2008 1:48 PM
Location: Back U.P. North,. Where the water's blue, the wind is free and seasons four.

Post by Coldswede »

:shock:
Holy Hell Batman! That's a big hole!

If your just wanting to close it up semi permanently and affect a proper patch later it wouldn't be much, depends on access. A fitted butt welded patch would be more.
Mike W.
Posts: 27362
Joined: Feb 12, 2006 12:00 PM
Location: California Whine Country

Post by Mike W. »

:pics!:

Sorry Eric, I couldn't help it. But seriously, it depends on what it looks like. If it can be straightened out so it's just a cut and not a jagged tear with holes in it, you might be able to mig it pretty quick and not tear into the car to remove the very flamable tarpaper and carpeting. Still some prep and R and R of the undercoating, but while I don't particularly like MIG it is quick and good on thin areas so you wouldn't get too much heat in there and set too much on fire. Actually you might be able to do that with a patch too, you can sometimes weld sheetmetal almost like you're just drawing a line. It will get much more expensive if you have to remove the interior, carpet, soundproofing etc to get to a nice clean non-flamable area. Actual dollars? I can't say, maybe as little as a few hundred or as much as a few thousand.
BDK
Posts: 5291
Joined: Feb 12, 2006 12:00 PM

Post by BDK »

That sucks big time...
to me it sounds like it would be easier to replace each pan on each side...
at what speed did you trailer the M7?
obviously, you didn't have a spotter to help...
if you did you need to fire him/her...

Are you able to get out of the car once you have it trailered?
Remember 03 when someone trailered their car and then had to climb out the window or did we push the car back enough for him to get out? I forget...

That sucks but I think doing the complete pan would be easier than doing a patch...
M. Holtmeier
Posts: 3036
Joined: Mar 11, 2007 3:06 AM
Location: Josephine, Texas

Post by M. Holtmeier »

Oh no!


What about cutting some panels from a donor car and using some Evercoat panel bonding adhesive instead of welding?
1st 5er
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Post by 1st 5er »

Sorry to hear that.
After repair, can it be loaded again without repeating the incident?

For a temporary fix, I might try some sheet aluminum cut to size and riveted in place.

Good luck with the rest of the journey, wish I were joining you guys...
Mike W.
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Joined: Feb 12, 2006 12:00 PM
Location: California Whine Country

Post by Mike W. »

grsmonkey wrote:Oh no!


What about cutting some panels from a donor car and using some Evercoat panel bonding adhesive instead of welding?
Something like that may be the ticket. I know there are some very good structural adhesives out these days, though I'm not sure which are good and which aren't, but that looks like a nice, non invasive way of making repairs. Probably cheaper too.
tsmall07
Beamter
Beamter
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Post by tsmall07 »

grsmonkey wrote:What about cutting some panels from a donor car and using some Evercoat panel bonding adhesive instead of welding?
That is a better plan.
535is-pa
Posts: 1944
Joined: Feb 12, 2006 12:00 PM
Location: south central PA

Post by 535is-pa »

i riveted in a aluminum sheet from home depot when i bought my rusty 535, sealed it up with jb weld. worked great and held my body weight when i stood on it.

I got creative with the rest of the holes. ....
Image
GilliamII
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Location: Northern IL, USA
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Post by GilliamII »

535is-pa wrote:i riveted in a aluminum sheet from home depot when i bought my rusty 535, sealed it up with jb weld. worked great and held my body weight when i stood on it.

I got creative with the rest of the holes. ....
Image
Love your creativity! :banana:
a
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Joined: Feb 12, 2006 12:00 PM
Location: Marshfield ,MA

Post by a »

I recommend a piece of steel , pop riveted with steel rivets. Less destructive than welding. Just watch out for wiring and hard lines.
graphite
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Location: Worcester, MA

Post by graphite »

Andy you're not allowed to say the word rivet unless you post along a picture of why you love rivets so much =)
a
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Location: Marshfield ,MA

Post by a »

graphite wrote:Andy you're not allowed to say the word rivet unless you post along a picture of why you love rivets so much =)
i dont do pictures. Matt, I dont own a welder, I suck at welding, The only welding repair I did on B6II was to fix a rotted spot of sub frame where the UCA is mounted to the frame rail.
Welding require you to strip the area of flammable stuff, Then you must totally cover the burned area or rust sets in immediately. Welds are strong, but the metal adjacent to weld becomes the fatigue area. because that is where the metal can flex. Rivets allow flex. Welding is used primarily because it is quick and machines can do it. If rivets were good enough for Ettore Bugatti, they are good enough for me.
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