Swapping in another G280 transmission
Swapping in another G280 transmission
So the G280 casing is damaged where the selector shaft seal is pressed in and leaks. I have this spare G280 from Bert Plaza that will go in so that 'leaky' can be repaired/rebuilt. Powerwashed it yesterday.
The replacement transmission went in his car as a replacement and has about 70k miles on it. I cleaned the outside yesterday and will arrange with a local shop to have it installed with fresh fluid.
So does one also replace seals and filters in one of these? Would you replace the throw-out bearing, slave cylinder and clutch at the same time? Just how far would you go to ensure smooth strong 'trouble free' operation for a a year or 10k mi?
The replacement transmission went in his car as a replacement and has about 70k miles on it. I cleaned the outside yesterday and will arrange with a local shop to have it installed with fresh fluid.
So does one also replace seals and filters in one of these? Would you replace the throw-out bearing, slave cylinder and clutch at the same time? Just how far would you go to ensure smooth strong 'trouble free' operation for a a year or 10k mi?
Last edited by Mab1957 on Jul 10, 2011 9:03 AM, edited 1 time in total.
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No filters,
replace the TO bearing as stated,
have the clutch plate evaluated but usually replace as it is cheaper than going back in,
evaluate the pressure plate and the flywheel for replacement and resurfacing, respectively,
Folks say to replace the clutch master and slave together so if you only want 10K, you might be able to get by without replacing either or just the slave, all I usually do, as the pedal bracket determines the master's life.
I would do the seals in the tranny if they are not fresh and as stated check the rear main seal.
Why are you looking for only 10k from this maintenance work? When I put in a clutch/tranny with all the extras I want 150K trouble free miles.
replace the TO bearing as stated,
have the clutch plate evaluated but usually replace as it is cheaper than going back in,
evaluate the pressure plate and the flywheel for replacement and resurfacing, respectively,
Folks say to replace the clutch master and slave together so if you only want 10K, you might be able to get by without replacing either or just the slave, all I usually do, as the pedal bracket determines the master's life.
I would do the seals in the tranny if they are not fresh and as stated check the rear main seal.
Why are you looking for only 10k from this maintenance work? When I put in a clutch/tranny with all the extras I want 150K trouble free miles.
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^^ Everything above ^^ and I'd add a pedal bracket to the clutch master replacement if and when you replace it. It's relatively inexpensive and a cracked or broken bracket will eat the replacement clutch master in short order.Blue Shadow wrote:No filters,
replace the TO bearing as stated,
have the clutch plate evaluated but usually replace as it is cheaper than going back in,
evaluate the pressure plate and the flywheel for replacement and resurfacing, respectively,
Folks say to replace the clutch master and slave together so if you only want 10K, you might be able to get by without replacing either or just the slave, all I usually do, as the pedal bracket determines the master's life.
I would do the seals in the tranny if they are not fresh and as stated check the rear main seal.
Why are you looking for only 10k from this maintenance work? When I put in a clutch/tranny with all the extras I want 150K trouble free miles.
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- Joined: Feb 12, 2006 12:00 PM
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Ok, since we are there, let's add the tranny bushing that get mushy with oil leaks.
Check the guibo and the CSB.
Since we got you looking at the shifter and replacing it with and ssk (for the 10k miles you want out of this operation), then check the back up light wiring harness for destruction at the kink where it goes into the passenger compartment.
We could go on...
Check the guibo and the CSB.
Since we got you looking at the shifter and replacing it with and ssk (for the 10k miles you want out of this operation), then check the back up light wiring harness for destruction at the kink where it goes into the passenger compartment.
We could go on...
I figured a year to have 'leaky' rebuilt then can put it back in the car. This G280 has mileage on it and was sitting for 3 years. I was told it worked fine when removed, but won't know until it is installed. If it functions well then I'll defer the 2nd swap further. I'll inspect the pedal bracket. My son and I did that bracket/CMC replacement on the 535is and it was a miserable job. I may try to get away with using the existing clutch cylinders for now if the bracket is OK.Blue Shadow wrote: Why are you looking for only 10k from this maintenance work? When I put in a clutch/tranny with all the extras I want 150K trouble free miles.
Thanks for the tips. I'll plan/perform accordingly to get the best possible results.
Blue Shadow wrote:Ok, since we are there, let's add the tranny bushing that get mushy with oil leaks.
Check the guibo and the CSB.
Since we got you looking at the shifter and replacing it with and ssk (for the 10k miles you want out of this operation), then check the back up light wiring harness for destruction at the kink where it goes into the passenger compartment.
We could go on...
OK, thanks Johnny, BS, Cold, Mark, and 1st 5er; I got there. After looking at what we pull out of the car I expect I'll "do it all". Unless it is obvious that Jeff had the clutch replaced right before I bought it from him (no receipts for that ) it is clear that it costs more in time and labor to get the transmission out than the sum total of all new parts [pedal bracket and hydraulics excepted]. So, reinstalling the replacement with new parts is the right thing to do.1st 5er wrote:I thought the clutch in my E12 was good 10,000 miles ago when I converted it from a 4 to a 5 speed.
I'd do it all.
BTW I shopped clutch kits and da parts pimp still has best or equal pricing.
I know someone that has installed one of these kits in their E28 ///M5 and is very happy with it.
Greg,
James did it in less than a day, 5.5 hours charged. I don't have the lifts/jacks to do it myself.
It is functioning very well so far including the drive to Pittsburgh and back, track time at BeaveRun Flat out day and the 5erFest events, all of which were a gas!
I'm looking at options to have 'leaky' rebuilt. Jim Blanton will do it for $3k. I haven't yet contacted a lead from RRT, but will try to get a couple of estimates before deciding how to proceed.
James did it in less than a day, 5.5 hours charged. I don't have the lifts/jacks to do it myself.
It is functioning very well so far including the drive to Pittsburgh and back, track time at BeaveRun Flat out day and the 5erFest events, all of which were a gas!
I'm looking at options to have 'leaky' rebuilt. Jim Blanton will do it for $3k. I haven't yet contacted a lead from RRT, but will try to get a couple of estimates before deciding how to proceed.
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- Beamter
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Contact Dan at diffsonline.com and see if he is interested (tell him I sent you.) Swell guy. I'd be interested to know the estimate as well since I have one that needs a shift fork and a couple of synchros and another that needs 3 synchros.Mab1957 wrote: I'm looking at options to have 'leaky' rebuilt. Jim Blanton will do it for $3k. I haven't yet contacted a lead from RRT, but will try to get a couple of estimates before deciding how to proceed.