New keys?

[C.J.]

When I bought my 5er the P.O. gave me a copy of the original key. Is there any way that I could get a set of keys made by the dealer, and how much would they cost me? Thanks.

[Brian in TN]

Dude. Call me. I can help seeing how I am in Chattanooga myself.
Wadya think guys? Can I help?

[BKCowGod3]

I dunno... Der Pimpinator may send you a churchkey by accident. (Shouldn't I be too young to know what a churchkey is?)

[C.J.]

Thanks Brian, I'll call you as soon as I'm down there again.

[bobs]

Any BMW dealer can use your VIN to look up your key code in the database back in Munich. Then any competent locksmith can make you a new key on an Ilco "X144 BMW3" blank. You can get either main keys or valet keys cut from the same code.

The new keys won't be BMW branded, but they'll be a lot cheaper ($4-5 rather than $20+). They'll be flat metal so they'll fit in your pocket easier than the giant plastic blob with a battery and bulb inside.

[BMWCCA2]

Any BMW dealer can use your VIN to look up your key code in the database back in Munich. Then any competent locksmith can make you a new key on an Ilco "X144 BMW3" blank. You can get either main keys or valet keys cut from the same code.

The new keys won't be BMW branded, but they'll be a lot cheaper ($4-5 rather than $20+). They'll be flat metal so they'll fit in your pocket easier than the giant plastic blob with a battery and bulb inside.

You forgot the part about getting what you pay for. I don't know what a BMW cut-to-code key costs these days from BMW but if you don't have at least one, it's worth it. BMW blanks are steel. As such they resist bending when they're not all the way in the lock and get turned. They also don't wear down as fast. Locksmiths hate cutting steel blanks because their cheap wheels for cutting the brass ones get eaten up to quickly by cutting steel. Consequently, a machine dedicated to cutting steel blanks such as those used by BMW will offer a more exact cut.

Since all of us are smart and sensitive enough to have chosen a BMW in the first place, part of that tactile experience involves frequent handling of the key. Why not make that experience as good as it can be with a BMW OE part? You can buy lots of gearshift knobs that can be made to fit a BMW, but for something you touch constantly while driving your car, you want it to be BMW quality. If you're ordering one from the Parts Pimp, go whole-hog and get the lighted one with the ///M logo!

[bobs]

I don't like having a giant keyring lump in my pocket. BMW has no slim keys, they all have some sort of plastic structure around the handle. So I get new (soft- and slim+) brass keys cut from the code every couple of years.

[Ed]

I got two plain black plastic head keys cut at the dealer with nothing more than a VIN and proof of ownership (my registration card) for $11 total.

[Rick_R]

Dude. Call me. I can help seeing how I am in Chattanooga myself.
Wadya think guys? Can I help?

I sent you email!

[BKCowGod3]

Also on the brass keys, once they wear down they can actually mess up the tumblers in your ignition. Or so I've heard.

[a]

On a whim, I got a new VIN cut key mit flashlight from Brian PP. Its pissah.

[BKCowGod3]

how much would I have to pay to attain pissah status, BderPP?

[C.J.]

Yeah, I think I'd rather have OEM keys than my current brass one. My keys are always clipped to my wallet chain, so they spent most of their time outside my pockets and I'd rather not have my car keys bend.

[GrFa]

I ordered a new set of factory keys (walet, master key, master key with flashlight) and I believe the flashlight key was $15 and the other two were both $10 from the dealer. WAAAAYYY better than the shitty keys that came with the car (which were bent and used exclusively by the previous owner for 7 years straight). On the plus side my car came with an original valet key so I used that in the meantime. When I was picking up the car at the po's house he couldnt understand why the doors wouldn't lock/unlock with the key he was using (brass copy bent like a pretzel). Remember a new ignition is more than a $15 key....

[Karl Heinz]

Explain something to me, guys. Everytime I have had keys made at the local dealer here in Central Florida, I have gotten keys that do not work. This is for both of the BMW's I own. I have not gotten a key that works from my dealer ever. I have gotten the small blanks that can be cut and then installed with a small screw in a housing with light, but never the original, BMW keys. Brian, is this unusual, especially with two different BMW's (same year, different series)? I have come to the conclusion that my local BMW stealer has a bunch of retarded ex-Sea Ray employees masquerading as parts monkeys. And, yes, I do work at the Ray, so I know from experience the level we are discussing.

The local Ace Hardware store cut them for me and they work beautifully. Of course, the guy behind the counter had been doing keys for years and had the "touch", thank goodness.

[Edit by Karl Heinz on [TIME]1123122562[/TIME]]


[Edit by Karl Heinz on [TIME]1123124786[/TIME]]

[Brian in TN]

Guyz., pLeaz kall me about orderin keeyz. it will coooohd take 2 longa 2 tipe tha dee-tales. Pulleez call mei

[BKCowGod3]

Mr Heinz - I would suspect that at some point your vehicle had the lock and ignition cylinders replaced. That's why copies of your key worked but VIN based copies did not. Happened to me in my Audi...

[BMWCCA2]

Explain something to me, guys. Everytime I have had keys made at the local dealer here in Central Florida, I have gotten keys that do not work. This is for both of the BMW's I own. I have not gotten a key that works from my dealer ever. I have gotten the small blanks that can be cut and then installed with a small screw in a housing with light, but never the original, BMW keys.

I'm not really sure what you're describing about the small blank and the screw and all. Sounds like you may not be getting the master key blank at all or maybe the wallet key or who knows. It also sounds like you're getting the blank from the dealer and the dealer is cutting them there rather than ordering them cut from BMW NA by the VIN. IIRC, any key ordered by VIN will come back with the key code on the parts label so maybe your locksmith could compare the code to what you're using that actually starts the car to see if they match.

FWIW, I just pick up the blanks at my local dealer and cut them on my own manual machine. Works much better for Isettas and 2002s which don't seem to be in the NA code database, unless I need a Pebra key for a Senior Six 'cause I don't have a drill press!

[Karl Heinz]

Let me clarify. I know that the two cars I own have not had the locks changed on them, as the L6 was bought from a broker in 1990 and the original keys were with the car. As for Karl, my 535is, I believe that Tim In N Florida can vouch for it that it has not had the locks changed. The keys included work in all locks and one of the keys is the original master key. Usually, when a lock goes south and is rekeyed, most people don't change out every lock, especially the glove box, because it is too expensive.

The local dealer here has tried several times with both VIN's to get the right keys cut in Germany with no success. What I eventually settled on were the BMW blanks that come in a package with a housing that has the push button light. Here are photos for clarification.



And another view.



That is why my comment about the intelligence of my dealer here in Florida.

After the third time on Karl and being stuck with the bill because the dealer would not order any more for "free", I said to hell with it and got the blanks. Still would love to find out what the heck happened, as BMW seems to usually have their crap together in regards to keeping accurate records. That is the reasoning behind my original questioning.

Well, now that this particular horse has been beaten to death, how about them Vols?

Seriously, Brian, if you can get me the "real" lighted keys, it would tickle me pink, but I am curious if I will be running into the same thing again? As before, any input or insight?

[BMWCCA2]

yeah, what you get is the "wallet" key which were included originally with each new car. The accessory lighted head for it came later. But it should work! I'm not sure if you can get the key code off the car's locks but I don't think it's on the glovebox lock, the easiest one to check. It may be on the door locks or trunk lock cylinder though, at least they used ot do it that way. I suspect also that your locks may have been changed at some point or someone's reading your VIN wrong...

[BKCowGod3]

I picture a warranty repair within a month of purchase (or straight off the boat) in which case they would have to change the glovebox lock too...