Window trim/drip rail CLIP replacement info

[reesesboot]

My painter is removing all 10 anodized aluminum trim pieces to be powdercoated. He recommended I replace all the clips when reinstalling. My question is: are these metal clips prone to breaking/cracking when removing trim and if so, if someone can provide some info on which ones exactly and how many are needed.

Realoem is clear regarding the drip rail on which clips and how many total (8 clips pn: 51131863499)

The upper/lower window trim clips are a little harder to pinpoint however.

Front: https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showpa ... Id=41_0569

Is #13 for the trim or the window guide? How many of #6 would be needed for all 4 trim pieces?

Rear: https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showpa ... Id=41_0669

This diagram almost suggests that the rear does not use clips, or is #5 used? If used, does anyone know how many are used?

Thanks

[Mike W.]

You're talking about at the base of the window, kind of at elbow height or where you would put your elbow with the window down? I've had all those off and never had a clip fail. Unless you're so close to the ocean it's not the normal California level of rust/corrosion, I would be very surprised to see one fail. I might have lost a couple, but never break or whatever. That said, with what it appears you will have into the job it might be worth it just to keep the painter happy, a don't sweat the small stuff type of thing.

There are also 3 or 4 per side, sometimes, on the rain gutter. If available, they might be worthy of replacement. They don't always seem to be there but I did have a raingutter come loose one time. And the plastic clips holding the door/fender trim, kind of at knee level, definitely replace them.

[reesesboot]

I'm referring to the anodized aluminum trim right below and above the windows, including the drip rail. I've already bought new door mouldings clips since those are plastic and most broke or lost the pins.

Just not sure about these metal clips. May have to clarify if hemeantthe doormould clips.

[Pauly Walnuts]

I had several of mine break when I removed them. I ended up just ordering a bunch from Autohausaz, they're cheap and I had to place an order Anyway so I added them in.

[reesesboot]

I had several of mine break when I removed them. I ended up just ordering a bunch from Autohausaz, they're cheap and I had to place an order Anyway so I added them in.

Thanks to both for the replies. Are you referring to part number 51211867969 (#6 for front, #5 for rear in the realoem diagrams)? How many - like 20?

[Pauly Walnuts]

Around 16 I think (4 per door). This was back when they were in stock though. It seems most are backordered now. I'd wait to see if yours are in decent shape first. If they're removed carefully they can be reused but mine got bent to hell since they were stuck on a rusty chassis that I was going to use for my other restoration project.

Also look into seeing if you'll need to buy the other clips for the chrome window trim (51321874017). New ones are far easier to clip in than the 30+ year old ones.

[reesesboot]

Ah, I didn't even see those.

So from the looks of things, It seems like there are 3 different clips for the 3 types of trim: top drip rail, top window trim, and bottom window trim.

8 of 51131863499 for the drop rail


X (assuming around 16) amount of 51321874017 for the top window trim


Then 16 of 51211867969 for the bottom window trim


This is assuming all new hardware is being used. Does this seem right? Sorry for all the questions, but I'm not near the car at the moment so can't get a visual of what's needed.

[vinceg101]

I just pulled mine off (sans the drip rails as these were kept on when the car was last painted; didn't want to damage the paint).
If you remove them correctly, they will stay intact. In fact, I just had a whole bag full re-plated; specifically the yellow zinc ones in your middle picture,these are for the brite anodized trim around the perimeter of the door glass (top window trim). As long as you follow the right procedure in removing the trim, these clips will survive to be used again.
Same goes for the lower window trim clips.
You have to be extremely careful and delicate with the trim as it is surprisingly fragile and prone to deformation in both the removal & installation as well as refinishing.

I will have this process illustrated in my M535i Restoration thread as I just did this step a few weeks ago.

[Pauly Walnuts]

What he said ^ If your painter is pulling them off just ask him to be careful.

For 51321874017 I'd just buy new ones depending on where your E28 spent most of it's life they'll probably be worth changing. Definitely make sure whoever removes them knows the proper way otherwise your chrome trim will look wonky and bent up. I used more than 16 clips though. They are use for both the chrome trim around the doors as well as the B pillar trim. If I had to guess closer to 36? Four for each B-pillar trim and 5 per upper chrome trim.

The drip rail is questionable. I've pulled drip rails from two E28s, one had clips the other didn't both were on there snuggly.

Another thing you might want to look into is the hardware holding the C pillar vents. They've been known to loosen up and are easily replaced for peace of mind.

[reesesboot]

Thanks for the replies. The painter has removed the 8 pieces of window trim and they are on their way to powdercoating. No way to tell if there are dings or bends from the removal but only time will tell when we get them back. I took a look at how many clips are necessary and it's about 20-22 for each sans the drip rail clips.

Regarding the drip rail, the painter said it's highly recommended to not remove it which seems to be the sentiment on the board here. He said he'll just mask and paint before the car goes into paint. Seems kind of unfortunate as the rest of the door trim will be powdercoated and this trim will just be painted - I was under the impression this could be removed like the rest of the trim. Any thoughts on this? Think I should push to have him remove it or just paint?

[Mike W.]

Thanks for the replies. The painter has removed the 8 pieces of window trim and they are on their way to powdercoating. No way to tell if there are dings or bends from the removal but only time will tell when we get them back. I took a look at how many clips are necessary and it's about 20-22 for each sans the drip rail clips.

Regarding the drip rail, the painter said it's highly recommended to not remove it which seems to be the sentiment on the board here. He said he'll just mask and paint before the car goes into paint. Seems kind of unfortunate as the rest of the door trim will be powdercoated and this trim will just be painted - I was under the impression this could be removed like the rest of the trim. Any thoughts on this? Think I should push to have him remove it or just paint?

I have removed several on E12/28s, same part. No big deal at all. There is that thing about them being no longer available, but if they aren't removed for a repaint it doesn't get sanded up there and you get peeling paint after the respray. Caution, absolutely, and it might be a little touchy, but not bad. Now E23s are difficult and E24s a full pain, but E28s no big deal.

[reesesboot]

I have removed several on E12/28s, same part. No big deal at all. There is that thing about them being no longer available, but if they aren't removed for a repaint it doesn't get sanded up there and you get peeling paint after the respray. Caution, absolutely, and it might be a little touchy, but not bad. Now E23s are difficult and E24s a full pain, but E28s no big deal.

This is what I'm most concerned about. They seem hesitant to do it, but at this point, I'd be more comfortable with them messing up a piece a trim for the peace of mind that there are no breaks in the paint. I did notice that they are not available new, but can wait on sourcing a good drip rail to powdercoat. Sigh, looks like another call to the shop tomorrow.

[jhh925]

I just went through all this with my re-paint. I'd removed all the trim and all the clips. I agree with the comments above that it's best to get these clips off to get the best results on the paint job.

If you haven't done so already, there are some tricks I found to getting the upper door trim chrome off ... the last clip on the back door (furthest aft) and the first clip on the front door (furthest forward) can be tricky. I made a tool that made it a lot easier to pop the trim off the clips without bending the trim or clips, and that tool came in particularly handy with those last two clips (furthest aft and furthest forward).

I have a handful of the the 51321874017 clips left-over if you need spares.

[Pauly Walnuts]

For reasons mentioned above, you'd be better off removing the rail and either attempting to salvage it or wait for a replacement. Depending on the color of the car it isn't an eyesore or anything to not have it installed. I just had my E28 re-painted Diamond Schwartz and haven't put the driprail back on yet due to laziness. It just looks like a regular old roof/drip rail without the trim.

[reesesboot]

Called the body shop and gave him the green light to attempt to remove the drip rail in spite of the risk of being ruined. Gave some tips gather from a couple board members on how to proceed, but something tells me he's going to do it his way. I'd rather have solid paint and worry about replacing the trim later.

Thanks for offering up clips jhh925, but I've already order new ones from the local dealer. Sadly, the 969 clips have to come from Germany, so will take 2 weeks. Not worried though, plenty of time to get this bitch together before the St. Paddy's Day event.

[jhh925]

Not worried though, plenty of time to get this bitch together before the St. Paddy's Day event.

Yeah, that's what I keep telling myself also about my project.

My painter is removing all 10 anodized aluminum trim pieces to be powdercoated.

I'm curious, is that a common method used to refinish these parts? I'd be concerned that the parts may get bent or distorted by the powder coating place (my place blasted all parts before powder coating). The parts also tend to flex a fair amount as you're putting them back on, which I'd think could cause the powder coating to crack. Is any of that a concern for you? Of course, if it turns out well, I may explore that myself.

[reesesboot]

I'm curious, is that a common method used to refinish these parts? I'd be concerned that the parts may get bent or distorted by the powder coating place (my place blasted all parts before powder coating). The parts also tend to flex a fair amount as you're putting them back on, which I'd think could cause the powder coating to crack. Is any of that a concern for you? Of course, if it turns out well, I may explore that myself.

Frankly, I was not aware of how tedious and difficult it was to remove/reinstall the trim going into the painting process. I'm letting professionals do this, but even they may have had trouble. I removed pretty much everything off the car except the chrome trim and windows. I told him that I wanted all chrome pieces able to withstand powdercoating to be powdercoated. I bought new e30 shadowline lockstrips for the F/R windows, so only the corner pieces and lower front window trim pieces will be powdercoated. This has been a learning process for me, but I'm willing to shell out some dough to see if the trim comes out right before exploring other avenues like buying used trim and just painting it myself with SEM or Wurth.

[Mike W.]

The lower front/rear windshield trim and the raingutters are the only ones that flex much, but I wouldn't worry about it on installation. I shadowlined my E12, jeez, 9 years ago now. It was a very slow and time consuming process to strip the anodizing off with oven cleaner, then prime and paint with SEM. Looked good but I've got lots of little chips in it now, it needs a comprehensive touch up. It wasn't a disaster by a long shot, but I think powdercoating is the way to go, and I hear the way BMW did it on the M5. Which is why that black still looks pretty good but the domestic stuff where they just painted over is typically peeling off in sheets in a decade. Really installing it is easier than removing it.

[reesesboot]

The lower front/rear windshield trim and the raingutters are the only ones that flex much, but I wouldn't worry about it on installation. I shadowlined my E12, jeez, 9 years ago now. It was a very slow and time consuming process to strip the anodizing off with oven cleaner, then prime and paint with SEM. Looked good but I've got lots of little chips in it now, it needs a comprehensive touch up. It wasn't a disaster by a long shot, but I think powdercoating is the way to go, and I hear the way BMW did it on the M5. Which is why that black still looks pretty good but the domestic stuff where they just painted over is typically peeling off in sheets in a decade. Really installing it is easier than removing it.

Good to hear. I'll report back when I get more information. Interested, scared, and excited to see how it turns out. To clarify, I thought only the lower-front windshield trim was anodized aluminum while the other pieces were plastic. Is the rear lower piece also annodized aluminum? Will one e30 lockstrip be enough for the entire rear?

[Mike W.]

Yes, the back, lower is aluminum too. And yes on one front E30 doing the rear. I'm almost sure I bought 2, E30 fronts when I did mine years ago and I had lots left over. Would only have been a couple of inches, but I should have cut it as long as I could, I've got ends showing now from shrinkage.

[Pauly Walnuts]

I had all of my chrome trim powdercoated (including the windshield trim) in satin black. No bends or anything, looks fantastic. The only problem is they have to drill a hole in the trim to hang it. Just make sure they drill in a hidden spot, my drill holes aren't noticeable at all.

[reesesboot]

I had all of my chrome trim powdercoated (including the windshield trim) in satin black. No bends or anything, looks fantastic. The only problem is they have to drill a hole in the trim to hang it. Just make sure they drill in a hidden spot, my drill holes aren't noticeable at all.

Sounds nice. Did you just paint the existing plastic lockstrips and powdercoat the aluminum pieces bottom pieces?

Are those lower aluminum e28 pieces necessary in addition to the e30 lockstrips for both front/rear windshields, or are the e30 lockstrips long enough replace those lower pieces? Sorry for all the questions - it's hard to visualize this without the car in front of me.

[Pauly Walnuts]

I had all of my chrome trim powdercoated (including the windshield trim) in satin black. No bends or anything, looks fantastic. The only problem is they have to drill a hole in the trim to hang it. Just make sure they drill in a hidden spot, my drill holes aren't noticeable at all.

Sounds nice. Did you just paint the existing plastic lockstrips and powdercoat the aluminum pieces bottom pieces?

Are those lower aluminum e28 pieces necessary in addition to the e30 lockstrips for both front/rear windshields, or are the e30 lockstrips long enough replace those lower pieces? Sorry for all the questions - it's hard to visualize this without the car in front of me.

I used new black E30 lock strips all around except the bottom where the chrome goes. The bottom of the seal is designed for the chrome trim and not a lockstrip, the trim sort of acts as a lockstrip of sorrts. I had it powdercoated and satin black rattle canned the the L-trim pieces for the corners. As mentioned, they need to drill holes to hang the pieces for blasting and coating. There's no way to drill the L-brackets without it being an eyesore so I just rattled it. I'm sure you COULD be fine without putting the bottom pieces in, might look ok to the untrained eye, it probably won't leak or anything.