Fuel injector removal

[Machtig]

After 36 years and 133k miles of use (the last 7 of which the car has just been sitting in my garage) i figured it was time to pull the injectors and have them serviced. As you may or may not be aware, there is little on the web that I could find that discuss the correct procedure for pulling them. However i have a garage full of tools and have been working on cars since my early teens so I feel like I know my way around an engine, or so I thought This was by far the worst automotive maintenance experience I’ve ever subjected myself to and I’d like to have a discussion with the engineers that designed the fuel rail and associated wiring because I have a few suggestions I think some of my struggles getting these things out were due to them being in there damn near 40 years. But most of the issues stemmed from their use of those spawn of satan injector electrical connectors that require 3 hands and a lot of cursing to remove and then they decided to rigidly mount the connectors in a metal and plastic housing that prevents you from removing each individual connector and setting it aside. Given that I erroneously thought the electrical connectors and housing were physically attached to the fuel rail I pulled the rail, injectors, and electrical connector assembly free from the intake manifold as one unit. Bad, bad plan! This required me to pull the individual injectors from the fuel rail and disconnect the electrical connector simultaneously. Miraculously I got it done but my knuckles took a beating. Also equally miraculously i didnt break any injector connectors, so I’ll take that as a win. However the two electrical connectors on the firewall above the intake manifold did get bumped somehow and turned to dust I think I have a plan to fix those, but am open to suggestions.
For those of you doing this in the future dont take the black cover off the injector wiring, its not necessary and you’ll just break and/or lose the 6 little plastic pins (3 of mine broke on removal), all you need to do is remove the vent tube between the manifold and valve cover, and then disconnect each electrical connector from the injector, working back to front (or front to back) and then you can lay the whole wiring apparatus aside and focus only on the fuel rail and injectors. Theres a trick I used for the injector connectors using baby zip ties that will simplify removal and minimize risk of breaking them, but I’ll have to take a photo later tonight to show how its done as it’d be tough to explain.

[Machtig]

This is the easiest method I found to remove the injector electrical connectors; it is still a pain in the ass, but once you get the hang of opening up the springs (from the side nearest the fuel rail) you then slide in the small zip ties (pointy end down). If you don't use something to keep the springs "open" all you have to do is breathe on them wrong and they'll spring back and lock back onto the injector.


I also finally found a "procedure" over on big coupe forum that google had cached. I'll post it here for the group.

1. Remove Vent pipe - just in the way, block head end.
2. Remove the injector connector spring clips ( tricky bit #1) (I don't recommend fully remove springs, you risk breaking the connector IMO. Just use the zip tie method)
3. Remove connector channel, plus wire to TPS. Fold out of way.
4. Remove start valve pipe, pressure regulator tube and flow/return pipes ( depressurize?) (not sure what the start valve pipe is, might be M6 specific? I just removed the supply and return fuel hoses from the fuel rail)
5. Remove 2 10mm bolts holding fuel rail. Remove injector flat clips (tricky bit #2). Pull off fuel rail - pull hard and straight up?
6. Remove all except No 1 spark plug. Paper in plug holes as usual precaution
7. Turn over until No 1 compression felt at TDC.
8. Now it's safe to pull out injector on cylinder 1. Any bits at least do not fall into the cylinder. Presumably, if they do, then would have to remove the airbox, throttle bodies and manifold. Question, should I just remove the whole intake system, including the injectors and do it on the bench?
9. Assuming the answer is no, then after removing cyl 1 injector turn in firing order 153624 till each piston is at tdc. ( clean plastic rod down plughole) and remove injectors in that order.
10. All out and nothing fell into the cylinders, have a large drink.
11. Like it says - assembly is the reverse.

[Fanclutchnut]

The same thing happened to our car with the sensors on the back wall. Ours is also missing the bracket. I may try to fabricate one. I tried to find the male plugs for the sensors but unless you find someone with a bad sensor/good plug, you’re out of luck. The sensors are only about $50 new though.

[Machtig]

The same thing happened to our car with the sensors on the back wall. Ours is also missing the bracket. I may try to fabricate one. I tried to find the male plugs for the sensors but unless you find someone with a bad sensor/good plug, you’re out of luck. The sensors are only about $50 new though.

I’m going to go ahead and replace both sensors and then once I get the old sensors out I am confident I can replace the old crumbling connectors with the new bosch EV1 connectors I got. It’ll be much easier on the work bench. Then I’ll have two spares.

[Fanclutchnut]

I came across this post again as I am about to remove our injectors. One seems to be stuck open and we are going to send them out for a rebuild at cruzin or five0 unless someone recommends otherwise.

So with regard to position and speed sensor plugs. I was able to find Bosch EV1 2 connector male plugs to replace the brittle connectors on the functional sensors we had. I did this for 2 reasons. One the stock position and speed sensors are now over $200. Second, because the wires the new ones come with are too short to run through the stock wire channels and connector bracket.

[Aldo525]

I came across this post again as I am about to remove our injectors. One seems to be stuck open and we are going to send them out for a rebuild at cruzin or five0 unless someone recommends otherwise.

So with regard to position and speed sensor plugs. I was able to find Bosch EV1 2 connector male plugs to replace the brittle connectors on the functional sensors we had. I did this for 2 reasons. One the stock position and speed sensors are now over $200. Second, because the wires the new ones come with are too short to run through the stock wire channels and connector bracket.

Engine is M30B34???...bought from an US seller what it is supposed the right sensors (position and speed, confirmed by the seller using my VIN) but they was too short as you say. BOSCH part was 0986280799, usd 80 each, lenght was 19".....not useful so returned to seller. Tried again this time from Spain!!!...only usd 40 each, Bosch part 0986280797 and this time lenght is 25", perfect fitment.

[Fanclutchnut]

No our engine is S38b35. That’s great to know about the alternate Bosch number with the correct length and price!

I came across this post again as I am about to remove our injectors. One seems to be stuck open and we are going to send them out for a rebuild at cruzin or five0 unless someone recommends otherwise.

So with regard to position and speed sensor plugs. I was able to find Bosch EV1 2 connector male plugs to replace the brittle connectors on the functional sensors we had. I did this for 2 reasons. One the stock position and speed sensors are now over $200. Second, because the wires the new ones come with are too short to run through the stock wire channels and connector bracket.

Engine is M30B34???...bought from an US seller what it is supposed the right sensors (position and speed, confirmed by the seller using my VIN) but they was too short as you say. BOSCH part was 0986280799, usd 80 each, lenght was 19".....not useful so returned to seller. Tried again this time from Spain!!!...only usd 40 each, Bosch part 0986280797 and this time lenght is 25", perfect fitment.