M5 engine work this week
M5 engine work this week
It took three full days, but I did manage to complete everything before the rain starts tomorrow.
I repalced all the cooling system components and every piece of rubber and plastic (fuel lines, vent lines, idle air lines, reservoirs, intake bellows, oil drain line, washer hose) under the hood.
The engine was so dirty that I really couldn't put it back together without cleaning it. I used a stainless steel brush on all the aluminum and painted the black pieces.
Devinder
BEFORE
DURING
AFTER
I repalced all the cooling system components and every piece of rubber and plastic (fuel lines, vent lines, idle air lines, reservoirs, intake bellows, oil drain line, washer hose) under the hood.
The engine was so dirty that I really couldn't put it back together without cleaning it. I used a stainless steel brush on all the aluminum and painted the black pieces.
Devinder
BEFORE
DURING
AFTER
Last edited by Devinder on Mar 28, 2010 6:11 PM, edited 1 time in total.
Shawn,
I used a plastic putty knife and brake cleaner, being careful not to get it on painted surfaces or plastic. Some places i used a toothbrush with brake cleaner. I used the stainless brush after that to remove the resude from the cleaner and the aluminum oxide. I replaced the hardware on the cooling system (water pump bolts, t-stat bolts) with stainless. I panted the steel water pipe and engine lift point. I didn't clean the block as much as I could have because it's hidden and I plan on rebuilding the engine soon. Removing the intake manifold, and everything in the front of the engine made it much easier.
Duke,
I blame you and Ron for the sickness.
Florida,
To me, the issue of replacing the coolant bottle has very little to do with its individual cost or even the cost of an engine rebuild. If you're going to change cooling system parts as they fail (which is not necessarily a bad idea), then it makes no sense to buy a new bottle until your's fails. I choose to replace cooling system parts as preventative maintenance, so to me a coolant bottle is a "wear part". The only parts I didn't change were the rad and heater core. I had paper showing that the rad was replaced recently, and the car is built around the heater core so that's going to get changed when I redo the dash.
Devinder
I used a plastic putty knife and brake cleaner, being careful not to get it on painted surfaces or plastic. Some places i used a toothbrush with brake cleaner. I used the stainless brush after that to remove the resude from the cleaner and the aluminum oxide. I replaced the hardware on the cooling system (water pump bolts, t-stat bolts) with stainless. I panted the steel water pipe and engine lift point. I didn't clean the block as much as I could have because it's hidden and I plan on rebuilding the engine soon. Removing the intake manifold, and everything in the front of the engine made it much easier.
Duke,
I blame you and Ron for the sickness.
Florida,
To me, the issue of replacing the coolant bottle has very little to do with its individual cost or even the cost of an engine rebuild. If you're going to change cooling system parts as they fail (which is not necessarily a bad idea), then it makes no sense to buy a new bottle until your's fails. I choose to replace cooling system parts as preventative maintenance, so to me a coolant bottle is a "wear part". The only parts I didn't change were the rad and heater core. I had paper showing that the rad was replaced recently, and the car is built around the heater core so that's going to get changed when I redo the dash.
Devinder