Euro 535i LS Turbo Build Thread - 7/10/19 Dyno update
today I had to work on some Vette ZR something with 325 wide tires in the back , the car had only 10k miles .
took it for a test drive and I was surprised to find out that it can easily brake the tires loose in second - no boost under the hood . after the test drive I thought about this build and I asked my self these simple questions
- how much more power does a man need ?
- how can you make an e28 with boosted LScrap hook up to the ground ?
and last - what kind of use you can find for it outside the race track ?
but hey that is just me
more power to you guys
good luck
took it for a test drive and I was surprised to find out that it can easily brake the tires loose in second - no boost under the hood . after the test drive I thought about this build and I asked my self these simple questions
- how much more power does a man need ?
- how can you make an e28 with boosted LScrap hook up to the ground ?
and last - what kind of use you can find for it outside the race track ?
but hey that is just me
more power to you guys
good luck
I think what is lost on some people is that I don't drive my car WOT every second. The v8 is going to provide outstanding drivability and very good HWY MPG. I have a set of slicks for the track and am making mods to the rear trailing arms to fit 275 drag radials. Granted the car will be traction limited with the 245 tires but it just takes some skill with the right foot and hands to have huge fun.fukoa wrote:today I had to work on some Vette ZR something with 325 wide tires in the back , the car had only 10k miles .
took it for a test drive and I was surprised to find out that it can easily brake the tires loose in second - no boost under the hood . after the test drive I thought about this build and I asked my self these simple questions
- how much more power does a man need ?
- how can you make an e28 with boosted LScrap hook up to the ground ?
and last - what kind of use you can find for it outside the race track ?
but hey that is just me
more power to you guys
good luck
Took the trip up this weekend. Did some more cutting on the car to make room for the intake air filter and charge piping. Also did some trimming to make room for the 2" radiator! Very happy about that.
Before/after pics of sheet metal removed (although opposite sides)
Sweeney had to start over on the downpipe (need access to #7 spark plug). WG piping is nearly complete. Remainder of the exhaust is nearly finished as well.
Before/after pics of sheet metal removed (although opposite sides)
Sweeney had to start over on the downpipe (need access to #7 spark plug). WG piping is nearly complete. Remainder of the exhaust is nearly finished as well.
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Sweeney and worked all day on the car yesterday. I think we are finally done cutting out sheet metal. This is the partial pile.
The downpipe is ready to be dropped at the coaters. Waiting on the driveshaft before completing the rest of the exhaust.
The radiator is hanging on it's own although an second set of brackets will be added. The plumbing for the intercooler is sorted out so it is being sent back to Bell to have the tanks completed.
We are started to weld in some struts to support sheet metal that has been removed.
Needed to tie the valance to the body since it's missing the center section that used to connect it.
I may be a while now before there is an update. Need to wait for the intercooler, downpipe and driveshaft to proceed.[/img]
The downpipe is ready to be dropped at the coaters. Waiting on the driveshaft before completing the rest of the exhaust.
The radiator is hanging on it's own although an second set of brackets will be added. The plumbing for the intercooler is sorted out so it is being sent back to Bell to have the tanks completed.
We are started to weld in some struts to support sheet metal that has been removed.
Needed to tie the valance to the body since it's missing the center section that used to connect it.
I may be a while now before there is an update. Need to wait for the intercooler, downpipe and driveshaft to proceed.[/img]
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I am using a t56 which use a slip yoke not a fixed flange like a getrag. The yoke can move up to one inch fore/aft. Remember we made the trannyount. We should be able to an acceptable angle.wkohler wrote:Bill in MN's experience comes to mind. I thought at the time that happened it was determined that the angle being slightly off puts an excessive load on certain areas, which is what allowed his shaft to get twisted and split. Perhaps my reading comprehension and retention is poor.
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Also with the extra length of your motor/tranny combo I'd imagine this shortens things quite a bit. I'm no math expert, but I vaguely recall a formula to calculate the length vs. DS thickness when compared against resonant frequencies given an rpm range.T_C_D wrote:I am using a t56 which use a slip yoke not a fixed flange like a getrag. The yoke can move up to one inch fore/aft. Remember we made the trannyount. We should be able to an acceptable angle.wkohler wrote:Bill in MN's experience comes to mind. I thought at the time that happened it was determined that the angle being slightly off puts an excessive load on certain areas, which is what allowed his shaft to get twisted and split. Perhaps my reading comprehension and retention is poor.
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Finally got to work on the car after 4 weeks. We removed the tranny,attached the slave lines, made some fitment mods and reinstalled it. Installed the driveshaft and mocked up the exhaust. Sweeney is working on the tip this week.
A really important part of an engine swap is checking the driveline angles. Since we are using a single piece driveshaft with u joints the pitch of the engine/tranny and differential should be as close as possible. 3 degrees difference is the max acceptable.
We went to great lengths positioning the drivetrain in a position that is as flat as possible. As it turns out we were rewarded with near perfect angles.
The engine/tranny sits at 5 degrees and the diff is at 4.5 degrees.
A really important part of an engine swap is checking the driveline angles. Since we are using a single piece driveshaft with u joints the pitch of the engine/tranny and differential should be as close as possible. 3 degrees difference is the max acceptable.
We went to great lengths positioning the drivetrain in a position that is as flat as possible. As it turns out we were rewarded with near perfect angles.
The engine/tranny sits at 5 degrees and the diff is at 4.5 degrees.
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Had an abbreviated work day at Sweeney's on Sunday but still got some things accomplished. Buttoned up the driveshaft and halfshafts. Filled the tranny, adjusted the stops on the shifter and installed it. I also installed a 7.25psi WG spring and did the final tightening of the WG, turbo and downpipe. It's so good to tighten a nut down with hopes that it is the last time before driving the car.
Meanwhile Sweeney made the brackets for the intercooler and we decided on a strategy for the intake, intercooler and radiator piping.
Still so much to do but each weekend we get a little closer. I have to say that siting in the car and shifting through the gears was exciting.
Meanwhile Sweeney made the brackets for the intercooler and we decided on a strategy for the intake, intercooler and radiator piping.
Still so much to do but each weekend we get a little closer. I have to say that siting in the car and shifting through the gears was exciting.
Last edited by T_C_D on Aug 13, 2012 12:39 PM, edited 2 times in total.