M30/B35 Rebuild

[RED89E34]

Hello,

New to mye28.com, long time user on bimmerforums, and proud owner of a E34.

To keep it interesting I am finally back to my physical well being after neck surgery.

My rebuild of my stock m30 and a used b35 head are underway.

My ideal goal for my boost project is to obtain a fun daily driver. I am keeping the engine internals and head stock.

I am installing ARP studs and a MLS gasket though.

The engine block:
I am taking new measurements of cylinder bores, block deck, and deck height too. I want to make sure the bores are straight and the deck surface is level and figure out which headgasket I need.
Honed
Hot Tanked
New Freeze Plugs
Main Journal Bores Honed

Cylinder Head
New seals
Cam re ground
Journals Honed(Need to double check with shop)
Valve job.
Head Pressure tested
Mounting surfaced straighten

Crankshaft
Cleaned and cleaned resurfaced.

I installed new main journal bearings, crank, and torqued to 44 ft. lb.

Using plastigauge measurements of clearance were .0051in across the board. Spec is .0020-.0046in
I am a bit concerned that it is not within spec.

I have new main journal cap bolts for final install of caps.
I then want to install my connecting rods. Before I do though, I have checked the freeplay in the rod's top bushing area. They all are consistent in minimal free play.

Questions regarding connecting rods. While I was thoroughly cleaning the rods in a cleaning tank(not harsh solvent, easy on skin) I noticed one rod had what seemed like two hairline cracks. Each on opposite sides of rod making an "X". All others Okay. The machine shop took them all back and thoroughly inspected and Magnafluxed the one rod of concern. What are thoughts on shot peening rods, replacing the bushings at top of rods?

The piston rings are all new. Need some advice on alignment of rings. (e.g. 1st compression ring at 3 o'clock, 2nd compression ring at 9 o'clock< oil ring at 12 o'clock) I am aware not to align the gaps of rings inline with all.

Lastly I want to order my MLS headgasket appropriately. I would like to lower compression but in order to do so I need to know steps into doing so. Thank You.

Exterior paint for block. any recommendations? Ideal color would be grey, white, etc. Not black.

I should have some pictures up soon. Nothing spectacular though, just build process.


Thanks for reading and your input!

[RED89E34]

[T_C_D]

.120 MLS will lower CR to about 8.4

[RED89E34]

Thanks Todd.

The cylinder head and engine block deck have to be a certain RA for MLS H/G as I have read on the forum.

Once I figure out the RA needed and get those parts to that RA, I will then measure the height of engine block and cylinder head. I am not sure if they were machined down.

Shot Peen Rods - My friend who has been taking current engine rebuild/modification class/and into boosting says I should shot peen rods for sure. Also said that a cam that was re ground has lost the outer toughness metal. I have to confirm with the machine shop if that was carried out. Thoughts?

I am going to replace the C/R bushings too.
Regarding painting the block. I want it clean looking and not rusty and just naked cast. I know paint traps heat but it has to look clean. I was going for a grey color to match the head and oil pan.

My main concerns directed towards those of you with experience with the build are the connecting rods, measuring the cyl. head height, engine block height, and obtaining the correct RA for a MLS, and the Camshaft to be used again.

Thanks again!!! I will write back as soon as I am back from Montreal!

[RED89E34]

This is the B35 Head. All stock with fresh seals.


This is a B34 head with major scoring in a cam journal.





If anyone is interested in the B34 head, let me know. It will be scrap. I have the came for it also.

[RED89E34]

Well, I went through some more injury related delays but getting back to this engine build!

I am looking for sources of the following fellow experts...

-Connecting rod small bore bushings.
-.120 MLS head gasket
-Main crank cap bolts
-Connecting rod end cap bolts/nuts
-ARP studs/nuts

much appreciated!

[T_C_D]

I can supply the MLS and ARP.

[RED89E34]

Pm sent TCD

[RED89E34]

Todd, Thank You for supplying the Headgasket and ARP Studs.

Just main cap bolts, C/R bolts and nuts, plus the small end bore crank rod bushings and assembly will commence!



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[RED89E34]

Alright!
I have new main cap bolts, connecting rod bolts and nuts, plus connecting rod small bore bushings coming!

Total plus tax was only $195

[RED89E34]

I am back in town from my trip from Miami!

This weekend I will be putting the engine together!

As a creative art venture, I am going to record video of the process and edit it later on. This is a huge milestone for the car and myself. Looking forward to it!

[T_C_D]

I am back in town from my trip from Miami!

This weekend I will be putting the engine together!

As a creative art venture, I am going to record video of the process and edit it later on. This is a huge milestone for the car and myself. Looking forward to it!

Cool. Have fun.

[Nebraska_e28]

Looking forward to the results! It can be a long road but well worth it. I'm still traveling it.

[RED89E34]

Rod bolts are on back order and will take 5-10 business days.

I will get the crank to crank bearing clearance within spec tomorrow though!

[RED89E34]

Crankshaft is in for good now.

I will post up the video later tonight on youtube.

In the meantime I am checking connecting rod bearing to crank journal clearances.

I am at a stopping point due to the c/r's not having any designation for specific journal.

The only unique numbers found on the big bore end/side are number codes (x68, x69, x72, x76, x92, x97).

I would like to install them in original spot. I will be checking all clearances however.

Any input is appreciated!

[RED89E34]

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[RED89E34]

Video of crank install from 9 minutes crunched and smashed to 1 minute with some Drum n Bass chaos.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PtUwRLgg ... e=youtu.be

[shocka]

Nice progress, gotta love Sigma.

[RED89E34]

Thanks everyone.

I am still waiting for parts from Germany. Apparently on back order.

Juggling a lot over here to be brief.

Looking for 42 lb fuel injectors and reading up on megasquirt.

[RED89E34]

BMW just got back to me about piston wrist pins. Not available separately.

Would anyone know of sources for the piston-connecting rod wrist pin?

Thank You.

[RED89E34]

I am super busy so if anyone here can spare some of their time, most appreciated.

Here is what I am in search for. connecting rod bolts for m30 engine out of 1989 535.



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Best Regards,

[tig]

Subscribed as I'm doing the same thing. Love the video (not the music so much).

[Shadow]

You're going to max out those 42lb injectors quick.

Also, can you make a rounded out price list?
Just wondering how much something like a rebuild costs, at a shop.

[unt0uchable]

You're going to max out those 42lb injectors quick.

Also, can you make a rounded out price list?
Just wondering how much something like a rebuild costs, at a shop.

This would be great for reference!

Keep it up. Looking forward to the final product.

[Rav335uk]

Sub'd

[RED89E34]

Thanks for checking it out and I will answer all eplies when I have some spare time.

I finally received the connecting rod bolts a couple days ago from Germany! 2+ Months I have been waiting and looking for other sources.

I started installing the pistons and rods today. Everything was going well until I broke an oil ring and determining orientation of connecting rods.
The connecting rods seem to be symmetrical except for the top bore where the piston pin goes through the connecting rod.

If anyone has insight or any pictures of orientation of rods installed in a M30B35(1989) 5 series I would greatly appreciate it. The oil hole at the top of the connecting rod seems to be dead center.

Best Regards,

-Scott

[RED89E34]

I found a web page with great information on crankshaft installation which lead me to emailing the person who documented the process. This was his response to my inquiry about connecting rod orientation in relation to crank/pistons.

"When I took the engine apart, I wasn’t familiar with that engine. So I documented (wrote down and photographed) especially the engine quite extensively. When I started to remove the piston+conrod assemblies I was looking for signs or clues on how I would be able to get them back in exactly the same way the went out.

So I noticed a pattern. On the top of the pistons you have an arrow. Notice how that arrow is slightly off-center from the guideon pin, it’s more towards one side of the piston. The cutout for the locking tab in the conrod should be on the same side.



Last picture is an actual shot of the first conrod cap I removed.
To the left is the front of engine, to the right is the rear.


I have marked the cutout in the conrod for the locking tab.
As you can see this should always end up on the side closest to the intake side.

Also note that all my conrod caps had an off-centered punch mark in them.
All my conrod caps were mounted in such way that this punch mark was on the side closest to the rear of the engine". -henrik.johannisson@telia.com

This guy really helped out! Huge Thank You!

[RED89E34]

After measuring, checking, cleaning, applying oil and assembly lube I installed the pistons and rod assemblies.
The video below has been compressed down to 2 minutes from 15 minutes.I added some house music as an effort to not scare off people with Drum n Bass.
M30 Pistons and Rod Assemblies Installation

[RED89E34]

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[RED89E34]

After Installing the pistons and rods I then continued with the journey.

-cleaned up and rebuilt Oil Pump, Installed.
-Installed ARP studs hand tight with lube.
-Installed Cosmetic .120" headgasket
-Installed ARP nuts to studs and torqued stage 1 and stage 2 process of torque of head procedure. Stage three requires 25 minutes of car running and then re-torque head nuts.
-The timing has been set(The time chain is newer with less than 40k on it.)
-Added the rear main seal, misc . parts on head, and cleaned up the cam cover.(Thanks Jeremy!) I am going to have the lines and "BMW" on the cam cover painted black. Picture posted is a teaser.

I am waiting for the oil pump tensioner. I couldn't find it in my box-o-parts. Maybe it was broken when I disassembled it. I should have this engine in pretty soon!