Did the search, checked the faQ.
Found this drilling solution - does it work?
"although it does involve drilling a 1/16 inch or so hole.
There is a rectangular black surround piece around the trunk push button lock cylinder. Drill a small hole just at the junction of the top of this surround piece with the sheet metal. Drill parallel to the push button, and exactly above it, in the midline of the car. The drill will penetrate outer sheet metal, then drop through a space, and hit the thicker metal of the lock assembly. Drill through this. The drill bit should penetrate through this a a depth of 2 7/8 inches (measured from the outher surface of the push button. Then just advance the bit (without drilling) another half-inch or so. It will hit the lock's opening mechanism. Give it a small push, and the trunk lid will pop open.
The hole will not be visible unless you kneel down and look for it. It can be sealed with a small dab of silicone, and you can use the hole again if you are ever locked out of the trunk."
Thanks,
John McA
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Stuck trunk
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unt0uchable
- Posts: 2265
- Joined: Jul 21, 2011 8:05 PM
- Location: Rochester Hills, Michigan
- Contact:
John, I know this might sound ridiculous but here is my story:
I couldn't get into my trunk for months. I let it go by forever before I finally pursued my problem one day. I found that the keys I received from the PO did not operate the trunk! He had given me another key that I put away as my "spare" and that happened to be my trunk key!
Moral of the story: Make sure you don't have two different keys!
Other than that, I've read that the drilling of the hole will work if done correctly and could be painted and plugged for access later...
I couldn't get into my trunk for months. I let it go by forever before I finally pursued my problem one day. I found that the keys I received from the PO did not operate the trunk! He had given me another key that I put away as my "spare" and that happened to be my trunk key!
Moral of the story: Make sure you don't have two different keys!
Other than that, I've read that the drilling of the hole will work if done correctly and could be painted and plugged for access later...
I have had this car since 2000, bought used, with the key to the ignition and, one that fit the driver door. Trunk has never been locked, don't have a key. Car has served me well. Really don't want to tear her a new asshole. No matter how tiny...
I have been squirting it with PB Blaster and knocking on it a little. The black surround was a little loose. Will fix that, when I make it open.
I figured I would wait a while before I start drilling. Probably the next hour, or two. Have a brand new Ti 1/8" dia. chucked, and ready.
Thx.
John McA
I have been squirting it with PB Blaster and knocking on it a little. The black surround was a little loose. Will fix that, when I make it open.
I figured I would wait a while before I start drilling. Probably the next hour, or two. Have a brand new Ti 1/8" dia. chucked, and ready.
Thx.
John McA
Did your search result come up with this one ?
http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=118073
Might be worth a good try before drilling any holes.
http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=118073
Might be worth a good try before drilling any holes.
Good thread however, he had a trunk lid that was already slightly raised.
Before drilling anything, I think I am going get someone to press down more on the trunk than I can, while working the button. The mechanism is loose.
I have another taillight assembly for one side but, seem a little over the top to smash one up. Yet.
Thanks,
John McA
Before drilling anything, I think I am going get someone to press down more on the trunk than I can, while working the button. The mechanism is loose.
I have another taillight assembly for one side but, seem a little over the top to smash one up. Yet.
Thanks,
John McA
Went the drill route.
1/8 dia. aircraft bit.
Drilled thru the sheet metal. Drilled thru the deeper piece described in the thread..
Didn't open yet. I am still optimistic. But reality is looming. Seemed too clever.
Since now I have new hole in my car - should I make it larger so I can stick something like a scratch awl, or punch - so I can press harder or position it differently?
Anybody have a photo (or three) showing the latch? Suggestions appreciated!
I think maybe a trip to dead e28 land (pick a part?) might be the next step. I could gaze (with envy) at some open trunks and, plan the attack.
I do have a right-hand taillight assembly. It looks stout. I really don't wish to start smashing. Or sawsall? Worried about cutting the wiring.
If I cut a hole in the back between the seats it would need to be large enough to fit my shoulders, correct? - if I went that route, It looks like a long reach. Even, after removing the upholstery.
John McA
1/8 dia. aircraft bit.
Drilled thru the sheet metal. Drilled thru the deeper piece described in the thread..
Didn't open yet. I am still optimistic. But reality is looming. Seemed too clever.
Since now I have new hole in my car - should I make it larger so I can stick something like a scratch awl, or punch - so I can press harder or position it differently?
Anybody have a photo (or three) showing the latch? Suggestions appreciated!
I think maybe a trip to dead e28 land (pick a part?) might be the next step. I could gaze (with envy) at some open trunks and, plan the attack.
I do have a right-hand taillight assembly. It looks stout. I really don't wish to start smashing. Or sawsall? Worried about cutting the wiring.
If I cut a hole in the back between the seats it would need to be large enough to fit my shoulders, correct? - if I went that route, It looks like a long reach. Even, after removing the upholstery.
John McA
I did the drill through thing. My car was a parts car I bought, it had been hit in the back & the back panel was pushed in about half a foot. The trunk lid was not pushed in at all, although it was bent some. Once I got the hole drilled, I used welding rod to push through the hole. Then I felt a spring resistance. Realized it was also the same spring resistance I was feeling as I pushed the button for the trunk. So then what really helped was I pulled the tail light lamp on one side, used a pry bar against the bumper up into the now empty tail lamp opening & pulled the tail panel back as far as I could, it was flexing the tail panel only. It took a few attempts, but that was what opened it, along with another hand pushing on the welding rod & trunk button. At that point, both the button and the welding rod were both pushing on the same latch part.
Since your car doesn’t have damaged tail panel, it may not matter, but if you don’t feel any resistance or “springy” feel when you push in with a drill bit, then the latch is not moving.
Does the key turn the lock button 180 at all ? Try that & push the drill bit again.
Since your car doesn’t have damaged tail panel, it may not matter, but if you don’t feel any resistance or “springy” feel when you push in with a drill bit, then the latch is not moving.
Does the key turn the lock button 180 at all ? Try that & push the drill bit again.
Thanks Dan,
I'll give your ideas a try.
Since I bought the car 16yrs ago, I haven't bothered to replace the lost trunk key! No, I am not lazy. More out of foolishness, I never expected a need to lock the trunk!
Maybe I just think all others are like minded and, respect each others personal property. Ha!
The joke is on me - not being able to break into my own (and unlocked!) trunk! Ok. Its a boot. Das boot. hehehe.
I think I am off to the Junk yard. AM tomorrow.
With almost new tires there is little risk of a flat tire.
John McA
I'll give your ideas a try.
Since I bought the car 16yrs ago, I haven't bothered to replace the lost trunk key! No, I am not lazy. More out of foolishness, I never expected a need to lock the trunk!
Maybe I just think all others are like minded and, respect each others personal property. Ha!
The joke is on me - not being able to break into my own (and unlocked!) trunk! Ok. Its a boot. Das boot. hehehe.
I think I am off to the Junk yard. AM tomorrow.
With almost new tires there is little risk of a flat tire.
John McA
Now Unstuck.
I took some time until I found working trunk latch at the junk yard in good condition - seems like all these trunks had issues and it wasn't until I walked into the last row that I found a good e28 trunk.
Once I had looked at the mechanism I knew where, and how much pressure to apply.
Just in case: Grabbed two excellent taillight assemblies to make the trip worth it. :alright:
If you have to go the smashing taillight route, I would suggest the left side as the access to the lever seems easier.
The drill method 1/8" dia. and, using a bent piano steel wire (.0400" dia.) I tried a week of just advancing the drill bit. BTW, I used an aircraft bit, which is longer..
the wire was just the ticket. The paddle is slightly on the right, looking forward. I worked a little bit of bend into the small dia. wire and fiddled for a bit until the trunk moved a little- VOILA!
I will learn how to take pix at some point. Don't really wish to share with the world exactly how to open the e28 trunk with minimal damage..
Good Luck,
John McA
I took some time until I found working trunk latch at the junk yard in good condition - seems like all these trunks had issues and it wasn't until I walked into the last row that I found a good e28 trunk.
Once I had looked at the mechanism I knew where, and how much pressure to apply.
Just in case: Grabbed two excellent taillight assemblies to make the trip worth it. :alright:
If you have to go the smashing taillight route, I would suggest the left side as the access to the lever seems easier.
The drill method 1/8" dia. and, using a bent piano steel wire (.0400" dia.) I tried a week of just advancing the drill bit. BTW, I used an aircraft bit, which is longer..
the wire was just the ticket. The paddle is slightly on the right, looking forward. I worked a little bit of bend into the small dia. wire and fiddled for a bit until the trunk moved a little- VOILA!
I will learn how to take pix at some point. Don't really wish to share with the world exactly how to open the e28 trunk with minimal damage..
Good Luck,
John McA
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Dortmunder28
- Posts: 16
- Joined: Nov 01, 2013 10:14 AM
- Location: Upstate NY
Re: Stuck trunk
Reviving this thread as I am in a similar predicament although I have to say, I am dumbfounded.
The car was rear-ended and the lock mechanism no longer functions. Key goes in and turns, it sounds like it engages and moves inside, but when I push the button in to release the lid nothing happens. I've already tried the drilling method previously suggested with no luck
, and have moved on to busting out the tail light. After doing so I was able to reach around inside and have successfully unscrewed the two 10mm bolts holding the locking barrel assembly in place and was able to remove the whole lock.
So now I am staring at an open hole where the lock mechanism once was, but still cannot get the stupid thing to unlatch. I'm thinking something might have gotten bent out of whack when it was rear-ended because I thought from here it should be as easy as just pushing the latch forward and having it open, but... nope, can't figure it out. I don't have a good view of what is going on in there, can anyone tell me how the actual upper catch and lower latch part go together? Anyone have a close up picture of the front side of the lower latch or can tell me how it operates? Someone please tell me I'm making a bonehead move and just need to.........
The car was rear-ended and the lock mechanism no longer functions. Key goes in and turns, it sounds like it engages and moves inside, but when I push the button in to release the lid nothing happens. I've already tried the drilling method previously suggested with no luck
, and have moved on to busting out the tail light. After doing so I was able to reach around inside and have successfully unscrewed the two 10mm bolts holding the locking barrel assembly in place and was able to remove the whole lock. So now I am staring at an open hole where the lock mechanism once was, but still cannot get the stupid thing to unlatch.
I'm thinking something might have gotten bent out of whack when it was rear-ended because I thought from here it should be as easy as just pushing the latch forward and having it open, but... nope, can't figure it out. I don't have a good view of what is going on in there, can anyone tell me how the actual upper catch and lower latch part go together? Anyone have a close up picture of the front side of the lower latch or can tell me how it operates? Someone please tell me I'm making a bonehead move and just need to.........