Circled it with a sharpie.
Maytag: The Alpine '87 529i
Got it. Mine is stamped "W+P 1 86" and thus is not one of the really bad ones. My car was made 7/86 so must have JUST missed getting one of the recalled "W+P 2 86" sprockets. I'm sure there's a risk that this sprocket could fail, but there's no way I'm getting one of those newfangled ones in time, so will just risk it...waynet1 wrote:Here ya go.
Done for the day.
- Timing belt off
- New water pump on
- New timing belt tensioner on
- AFM, boot, etc... off
- In-engine bay alarm crap pulled
- Heater control valve out
- Temporary heater control valve bypass ready
Tomorrow
- Install heater valve bypass
- R&R heater fan
- Pull valve cover
- Adjust valves (got all the parts today!)
- Clean injectors (if I can to it without removing intake)
- Re-assemble everything
- Replace wheel bearing
- Replace dog-bones
- Rip out alarm
- Fix stereo
Monday night (assuming heater valve rebuild kit comes as promised)
- Rebuild heater valve
- Pull AFM again and install rebuilt heater valve
- Timing belt off
- New water pump on
- New timing belt tensioner on
- AFM, boot, etc... off
- In-engine bay alarm crap pulled
- Heater control valve out
- Temporary heater control valve bypass ready
Tomorrow
- Install heater valve bypass
- R&R heater fan
- Pull valve cover
- Adjust valves (got all the parts today!)
- Clean injectors (if I can to it without removing intake)
- Re-assemble everything
- Replace wheel bearing
- Replace dog-bones
- Rip out alarm
- Fix stereo
Monday night (assuming heater valve rebuild kit comes as promised)
- Rebuild heater valve
- Pull AFM again and install rebuilt heater valve
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Kyle in NO
- Posts: 17638
- Joined: Feb 12, 2006 12:00 PM
- Location: Nasty Orleans------> Batten-Rooehjch------>More Souther LA
They are easier to take out on that M20 than the later ones.. I use a Stanley pry-bar to start the injectors out of the intake. Lube the O-rings with gear oil when installing them.Kyle in NO wrote:Yes, the fuel rail and injectors can be pulled without removing the intake manifold. Pop injectors and rail out, then roll the whole assembly over the valve cover area and out.
Thanks guys.a wrote:They are easier to take out on that M20 than the later ones.. I use a Stanley pry-bar to start the injectors out of the intake. Lube the O-rings with gear oil when installing them.Kyle in NO wrote:Yes, the fuel rail and injectors can be pulled without removing the intake manifold. Pop injectors and rail out, then roll the whole assembly over the valve cover area and out.
I take it that the valve adjustment should be done AFTER I've installed the new timing belt, otherwise I won't be able to move the crank/pistons.
I'm not finding any instructions on replacing the camshaft seal, other than in Bentley's under head disassembly (3.4.1). Is that the proceedure?
There was some RTV on the tops of the old blind plugs, should I do the same?
Can valve cover gaskets be re-used. The one I pulled off looks fine.
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Kyle in NO
- Posts: 17638
- Joined: Feb 12, 2006 12:00 PM
- Location: Nasty Orleans------> Batten-Rooehjch------>More Souther LA
-
Coldswede
- Posts: 6859
- Joined: Oct 10, 2008 1:48 PM
- Location: Back U.P. North,. Where the water's blue, the wind is free and seasons four.
No RTV on the blind plugs, they are under compression from the valve cover and need no sealer.
I just followed Mr Bentleys instruction for the cam seal and it worked perfectly. It is pretty simple anyway. Do note the sentence about setting the seal slightly deeper to let the lip ride on an unworn area.
I just followed Mr Bentleys instruction for the cam seal and it worked perfectly. It is pretty simple anyway. Do note the sentence about setting the seal slightly deeper to let the lip ride on an unworn area.
Roger that. I have a VR gasket and will use it. THanks.Kyle in NO wrote:The valve cover gasket will leak, trust me. The newer Victor Reinz gaskets have a bead of silicone already imbedded for better sealing. You can smear a small amount of RTV over the blind plug to head joint to ensure a good seal.
There's this resistor inline for the coolant temp sensor.
I've read that this is a common fix for something, but I've never found anything that describes precisely WHAT.
The solder joint is horrible. It is going to break, likely when I next plug it in. I want to re-do it. However, the wires are super short.
Any downsides, other than some it being the wrong color & future owner being confused, by me using this connector I pulled off a ratty B34 harness I had? I can then do the resistor correctly with shrink wrap and everything.
I've read that this is a common fix for something, but I've never found anything that describes precisely WHAT.
The solder joint is horrible. It is going to break, likely when I next plug it in. I want to re-do it. However, the wires are super short.
Any downsides, other than some it being the wrong color & future owner being confused, by me using this connector I pulled off a ratty B34 harness I had? I can then do the resistor correctly with shrink wrap and everything.
Last edited by tig on Nov 24, 2013 3:22 PM, edited 1 time in total.
It richens the mixture, which when the engine is cold, improved driveability for the whiners. This was usually performed in conjunction with adjusting the AFM wiper, so if you decide to remove it and find the car runs less than stupendously, look at the AFM. The resistor can very well be a source of a No-start if the solder joints break, as the CTS signal is necessary to operation of the vehicle.
Makes sense. Thanks. Of course this begs the question: in which direction was the afm wiper adjusted. I've been told never to eff with the wiper.wkohler wrote:It richens the mixture, which when the engine is cold, improved driveability for the whiners. This was usually performed in conjunction with adjusting the AFM wiper, so if you decide to remove it and find the car runs less than stupendously, look at the AFM. The resistor can very well be a source of a No-start if the solder joints break, as the CTS signal is necessary to operation of the vehicle.