M30/B35 Rebuild
-
DangerWillRbnsn
- Posts: 442
- Joined: Sep 29, 2011 7:33 PM
- Location: Las Vegas, NV
Oil return fitting
Oil Return from turbo.
Engine Installation complete!
Alright!
The engine is in the car and purrs. So far 80 miles on the rebuilt engine/head and it feels, sounds, runs great. VERY TIGHT engine. Holds great vacuum! So proud of myself and all the time I took rebuilding the engine. Thanks to the machine shop too!
I had some unexpected expenses arise so the engine is NOT FI yet. However, she is ready for it!
I still have a lot of work to do with the car, mainly small nickle and dime things.
To Do:(Not prioritized)
-New Diff
-higher lb injectors
-figure out which turbo/manifold/intake piping
-engine mount(RH side)
-hook up "Hi-Beam" lighting
-install horns
-drop rear susp another .5 inch or .75 inch
-secure suede headliner
-degrease under chassis and engine bay!
-bypass "auto trans program error" - converted to 5 speed
-hook up back up lights
-left rear taillight intermittently inoperative
-thicker sway bar for the rear end- loosey-goosey
-body shop visit to fix the emblem delete.
In the mean time, I will enjoy this completely one of a kind E34.
The engine is in the car and purrs. So far 80 miles on the rebuilt engine/head and it feels, sounds, runs great. VERY TIGHT engine. Holds great vacuum! So proud of myself and all the time I took rebuilding the engine. Thanks to the machine shop too!
I had some unexpected expenses arise so the engine is NOT FI yet. However, she is ready for it!
I still have a lot of work to do with the car, mainly small nickle and dime things.
To Do:(Not prioritized)
-New Diff
-higher lb injectors
-figure out which turbo/manifold/intake piping
-engine mount(RH side)
-hook up "Hi-Beam" lighting
-install horns
-drop rear susp another .5 inch or .75 inch
-secure suede headliner
-degrease under chassis and engine bay!
-bypass "auto trans program error" - converted to 5 speed
-hook up back up lights
-left rear taillight intermittently inoperative
-thicker sway bar for the rear end- loosey-goosey
-body shop visit to fix the emblem delete.
In the mean time, I will enjoy this completely one of a kind E34.
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mooseheadm5
- Beamter
- Posts: 23035
- Joined: Apr 08, 2009 10:30 PM
- Location: Charlottesville, VA
- Contact:
No new updates besides needing the turbo parts. Hopefully I will be selling my 1979 Club Wagon soon.
If anyone is interested in it here it is...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1979-Ford-Club- ... 27d91e72bb
If anyone is interested in it here it is...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1979-Ford-Club- ... 27d91e72bb
Update
Engine Update:
The engine is running great. About 3000 miles on it so far.
Unfortunately it is leaking from the rear main seal!
I will have to drop the transmission and reseal. Plus I will have time to inspect the transmission and tighten up that sloppy gear selector. Maybe a short throw with new bushings?? My goal is to have it feel heavy and a direct connection from hand to gears.
Hope to get that turbo manifold soon and get it installed!
The engine is running great. About 3000 miles on it so far.
Unfortunately it is leaking from the rear main seal!
I will have to drop the transmission and reseal. Plus I will have time to inspect the transmission and tighten up that sloppy gear selector. Maybe a short throw with new bushings?? My goal is to have it feel heavy and a direct connection from hand to gears.
Hope to get that turbo manifold soon and get it installed!
Re: Update
did you put a new.seal in when you rebuilt it?!?RED89E34 wrote:Engine Update:
The engine is running great. About 3000 miles on it so far.
Unfortunately it is leaking from the rear main seal!
I will have to drop the transmission and reseal. Plus I will have time to inspect the transmission and tighten up that sloppy gear selector. Maybe a short throw with new bushings?? My goal is to have it feel heavy and a direct connection from hand to gears.
Hope to get that turbo manifold soon and get it installed!
Re: Update
Yes. All new seals. Pretty nice having the front of the engine nice and dry.did you put a new.seal in when you rebuilt it?!?
Keep an eye out for that cover on the back of the cylinder head. Im not entirely sure if the B35's had them but the one on my B34 gave me a hell of a time. I thought it was my rear main seal leaking after I rebuilt my engine. Only to find it was the cover plate on the back of the cylinder head.
If the B35 doesn't have it, then this post was a waste of reading.
Good job on the rebuild. Hoping it runs good for years to come.
If the B35 doesn't have it, then this post was a waste of reading.
Good job on the rebuild. Hoping it runs good for years to come.
@ Jim. Thanks Jim. I did check it its dry.
The headgasket looks dry too which is great. Thank you ARP.
I am hoping it is just the rear main seal and that's it. My clutch is slipping under hard accel and fast shifting which is pointing me to that area.
UPDATE on turbo installation.
Well, I bought another vehicle I couldn't pass up which will finance more of this threads project.
1990 black on black 535 auto with blown headgasket and AC Schnizter Full kit. Very clean exterior and very clean interior.
Manual Swap and LSD Diff plus prep motor for turbo application, engage!
After the Black 90 E34 is gone back to the Red 89 E34.
RED is doing great. I do drive it like I stole it everyday but I don't abuse it. I hit 5500 RPM max but this is rare. The engine is sounding great and no other oil leaks are in the front of oil pan. Trans is great too.
The suspension and tires on the other hand are worked really hard. What remains for the suspension to be fine for another year would be front and rear stabilizer bars(larger), rear Koni Adj. shocks and that's it. The butt is pretty loosey goosey.
Thanks for checking out the progress people.
The headgasket looks dry too which is great. Thank you ARP.
I am hoping it is just the rear main seal and that's it. My clutch is slipping under hard accel and fast shifting which is pointing me to that area.
UPDATE on turbo installation.
Well, I bought another vehicle I couldn't pass up which will finance more of this threads project.
1990 black on black 535 auto with blown headgasket and AC Schnizter Full kit. Very clean exterior and very clean interior.
Manual Swap and LSD Diff plus prep motor for turbo application, engage!
After the Black 90 E34 is gone back to the Red 89 E34.
RED is doing great. I do drive it like I stole it everyday but I don't abuse it. I hit 5500 RPM max but this is rare. The engine is sounding great and no other oil leaks are in the front of oil pan.
Trans is great too.The suspension and tires on the other hand are worked really hard. What remains for the suspension to be fine for another year would be front and rear stabilizer bars(larger), rear Koni Adj. shocks and that's it. The butt is pretty loosey goosey.
Thanks for checking out the progress people.
Promo VIdeo
Happy New Year everyone.
I can knock this off my bucket list. NEXT.
Enjoy.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TF-kdWQw ... e=youtu.be
I can knock this off my bucket list. NEXT.
Enjoy.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TF-kdWQw ... e=youtu.be
Valve adjustment and AFM tune
I have been driving her hard for the past few weeks. I had to adjust the valves already which was way soon than regular maintenance calls for. Plus I calibrated my AFM.
I calibrated with a known good AFM and I am very pleased with results. Very smooth now.
I had a blast on the Ortega hwy last weekend during the day and night. Night driving was the most fun but most dangerous. Least amount of traffic too.
As for the MAF conversion out there, if someone has experience with the MAF conversion with stats I would love to see them and share.
I calibrated with a known good AFM and I am very pleased with results. Very smooth now.
I had a blast on the Ortega hwy last weekend during the day and night. Night driving was the most fun but most dangerous. Least amount of traffic too.
As for the MAF conversion out there, if someone has experience with the MAF conversion with stats I would love to see them and share.
April Update
The cause of that hard to locate oil leak was from the cam cover plate on back of head!
I couldn't believe it. I think due to using RTV on one side or using RTV in general caused it to leak. I replaced with a new paper gasket and heavy duty rtv sealer. No more leaks!
I started developing a hard starting, start and stumble issue recently. Fuel Pressure is okay. Pump was replaced two or three years ago. Fuel injectors are clean and I think original(320k miles) and the fuel pressure regulator is working properly. Need to change that fuel filter too, its due time. Once it does start, the idle surges for 30 seconds max.
I did started noticing my temp gauge would flicker intermittently. Finally, I saw the needle flat line to cold while I was just idling at a stop light.
After some quick research on the forums I am going to check the wiring to sensor/cluster and sensor. If it is sending a faulty signal to the ECM for fueling, it could be sending wrong a/f ratio when cranking engine.
On top of that concern, I inspected the rest of the drive train. 4 out of 6 drive shaft bolts sheared clean off! Installed grade 8 bolts and nuts.
Looking forward to getting it boosted! My black E34 is all done and man, that thing is pretty quick. It just goes and goes.
To be continued.
I couldn't believe it. I think due to using RTV on one side or using RTV in general caused it to leak. I replaced with a new paper gasket and heavy duty rtv sealer. No more leaks!
I started developing a hard starting, start and stumble issue recently. Fuel Pressure is okay. Pump was replaced two or three years ago. Fuel injectors are clean and I think original(320k miles) and the fuel pressure regulator is working properly. Need to change that fuel filter too, its due time. Once it does start, the idle surges for 30 seconds max.
I did started noticing my temp gauge would flicker intermittently. Finally, I saw the needle flat line to cold while I was just idling at a stop light.
After some quick research on the forums I am going to check the wiring to sensor/cluster and sensor. If it is sending a faulty signal to the ECM for fueling, it could be sending wrong a/f ratio when cranking engine.
On top of that concern, I inspected the rest of the drive train. 4 out of 6 drive shaft bolts sheared clean off! Installed grade 8 bolts and nuts.
Looking forward to getting it boosted!
My black E34 is all done and man, that thing is pretty quick. It just goes and goes. To be continued.
Last edited by RED89E34 on Jun 05, 2017 4:12 AM, edited 1 time in total.
Re: M30/B35 Rebuild
Quick Update:
The engine is running great!
Fuel Leak: Rubber fuel lines had to be replaced from sending unit to filter to hard lines. The lines started spraying when I took it to the muffler shop for a hanger repair.
Temp Gauge Erratic: Still flickers. Now the needles of fuel gauge, speedo, RPM, temp flat line and all numerical and alpha values disappear. Illumination of cluster is only visible. Never seen this before on the E34. I am shooting for a Inst. Pack assembly. 324k miles on chassis and the I-Pack.
Sold the black 535i so the turbo project will continue in the weeks to come.
The engine is running great!
Fuel Leak: Rubber fuel lines had to be replaced from sending unit to filter to hard lines. The lines started spraying when I took it to the muffler shop for a hanger repair.
Temp Gauge Erratic: Still flickers. Now the needles of fuel gauge, speedo, RPM, temp flat line and all numerical and alpha values disappear. Illumination of cluster is only visible. Never seen this before on the E34. I am shooting for a Inst. Pack assembly. 324k miles on chassis and the I-Pack.
Sold the black 535i so the turbo project will continue in the weeks to come.
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Nebraska_e28
- Beamter
- Posts: 9062
- Joined: Apr 13, 2006 11:18 PM
- Location: Council Bluffs, IA
- Contact:
Re: M30/B35 Rebuild
\subscribed
I'm thinking about replacing my b34 with a b35 when it comes time to rebuild over the winter.
I'm thinking about replacing my b34 with a b35 when it comes time to rebuild over the winter.
Update:
>Temp Gauge flicker: This was due to a faulty instrument cluster. The cluster would also flat line needles and center display box would blank out intermittently while driving. I replaced with a used Inst. Cluster from a doner car. The driveability has increased and no more hard starting/stumble.
When we had some wet streets here in Cali I was having fun sliding around with the manual transmission and keeping the revs high. This caused the oil pressure sensor to break and dump oil past the casing. Easy fix but I was surprised it broke! Symptom was oil leakage, oil burning and oil pressure light coming on at idle.
I had to replace the fuel regulator rubber hose(return line) because it was kinked and not allowing fuel return. The symptoms: Poor fuel economy, low power, stalling, and at idle, oil pressure light flickering. At first I thought it was just low oil pump pressure.
rockers need adjustment due to mileage too, maybe this weekend! Need to recover from having kidney stones though.
That was my new year day wake up call at 9:40am. lol.
Other than this, the engine is great! Such a great chassis...love this car I want to get the turbo parts installed before summertime, priorities, priorities.
When we had some wet streets here in Cali I was having fun sliding around with the manual transmission and keeping the revs high. This caused the oil pressure sensor to break and dump oil past the casing. Easy fix but I was surprised it broke! Symptom was oil leakage, oil burning and oil pressure light coming on at idle.
I had to replace the fuel regulator rubber hose(return line) because it was kinked and not allowing fuel return. The symptoms: Poor fuel economy, low power, stalling, and at idle, oil pressure light flickering. At first I thought it was just low oil pump pressure.
rockers need adjustment due to mileage too, maybe this weekend! Need to recover from having kidney stones though.
That was my new year day wake up call at 9:40am. lol.Other than this, the engine is great! Such a great chassis...love this car
I want to get the turbo parts installed before summertime, priorities, priorities.Re: Update:
Thanks for updating us!RED89E34 wrote: When we had some wet streets here in Cali I was having fun sliding around with the manual transmission and keeping the revs high. This caused the oil pressure sensor to break and dump oil past the casing. Easy fix but I was surprised it broke! Symptom was oil leakage, oil burning and oil pressure light coming on at idle.
I found it interesting that you inferred high-revs caused the oil pressure sensor to break. Is that really something that can fail due to high-revs? I figured they just get old. Just curious.
Re: M30/B35 Rebuild
>Cek:
It could be due to age. Maybe Vibrations, pressure, or something else caused it to crack. The "enthusiastic" driving was what led me to think the casing broke.
Thanks for asking. I wish I had a definite answer.
It could be due to age. Maybe Vibrations, pressure, or something else caused it to crack. The "enthusiastic" driving was what led me to think the casing broke.
Thanks for asking. I wish I had a definite answer.
Oil Light Flickering Consistent with Engine RPM
CONCERN/ISSUE:
After that one day my oil pressure sensor broke I have had the red oil light flickering when fully warm and at idle only. The flickering light is consistent with the engine RPM. Intermittently the car will bog down and stall out. The engine turns but will not start. It seems that something needs to cool down before it can start again. As for now I have the engine idling at 1000-1100 RPM to keep light off and from stalling out. I checked codes but nothing stored. The Oil Level Sensor message displayed today too. The stalling at idle is becoming more frequent.
The only way of duplicating this is by disconnecting the Crank Position Sensor and disconnecting AFM. I am going to add two new overlay harnesses for this circuit.
CHECKED AREAS:
Checked main relay at Engine Box - Had dirty contacts/cleaned.
Checked the wires from engine speed sensor and cyl. ID sensor to DME - not shorted to ground and .2ohms
Installed a ground overlay harness for Temp Sensors on housing and the Throttle Position Switch to a new ground.
CPS measured .530 ohms and with a 1mm gap installed. Replaced due to thinking it creates an open circuit when hot and had some dirt on it.
Coolant temp sensors resistance value identical cold(not checked hot).
Tested oil pressure switch with engine running and light flickering - No continuity/sound when testing. With engine off and testing sensor switch to ground continuity/sound heard.
Removed DME and inspected PCB for broken solder joints.
Wiggle test with engine running and hot. The engine bogged and rev'd ONCE but could not duplicate since.
Ignition coil Pri/Sec - .5 ohm and 9k ohms.
2.26.15 Update:
With concern present, removed cap from oil canister and oil drained down in a few seconds.
Replaced Oil Canister with used oil canister, concern persists when hot.
Drove vehicle and as RPM fell below 1k, engine stalled.
RECENTLY REPLACED:
Used Ipack because the analog gauges and display would flat line/blank out intermittently.
New fuel pump assembly(Separate concern)
New FPR(separate concern)
Replaced DME with one out of a 89 635i today. No change and after replaced, the flickering continued. I am trying to relate the consistency of the flickering to engine rpm. Thoughts? Ignition Coil? Oil Pressure sensor circuit, Oil Level Sensor Circuit, GEM, Ipack, AFM, Ground Circuits, Power Circuits?
I hope this helps others with similar concerns and thanks for the input!
After that one day my oil pressure sensor broke I have had the red oil light flickering when fully warm and at idle only. The flickering light is consistent with the engine RPM. Intermittently the car will bog down and stall out. The engine turns but will not start. It seems that something needs to cool down before it can start again. As for now I have the engine idling at 1000-1100 RPM to keep light off and from stalling out. I checked codes but nothing stored. The Oil Level Sensor message displayed today too. The stalling at idle is becoming more frequent.
The only way of duplicating this is by disconnecting the Crank Position Sensor and disconnecting AFM. I am going to add two new overlay harnesses for this circuit.
CHECKED AREAS:
Checked main relay at Engine Box - Had dirty contacts/cleaned.
Checked the wires from engine speed sensor and cyl. ID sensor to DME - not shorted to ground and .2ohms
Installed a ground overlay harness for Temp Sensors on housing and the Throttle Position Switch to a new ground.
CPS measured .530 ohms and with a 1mm gap installed. Replaced due to thinking it creates an open circuit when hot and had some dirt on it.
Coolant temp sensors resistance value identical cold(not checked hot).
Tested oil pressure switch with engine running and light flickering - No continuity/sound when testing. With engine off and testing sensor switch to ground continuity/sound heard.
Removed DME and inspected PCB for broken solder joints.
Wiggle test with engine running and hot. The engine bogged and rev'd ONCE but could not duplicate since.
Ignition coil Pri/Sec - .5 ohm and 9k ohms.
2.26.15 Update:
With concern present, removed cap from oil canister and oil drained down in a few seconds.
Replaced Oil Canister with used oil canister, concern persists when hot.
Drove vehicle and as RPM fell below 1k, engine stalled.
RECENTLY REPLACED:
Used Ipack because the analog gauges and display would flat line/blank out intermittently.
New fuel pump assembly(Separate concern)
New FPR(separate concern)
Replaced DME with one out of a 89 635i today. No change and after replaced, the flickering continued. I am trying to relate the consistency of the flickering to engine rpm. Thoughts? Ignition Coil? Oil Pressure sensor circuit, Oil Level Sensor Circuit, GEM, Ipack, AFM, Ground Circuits, Power Circuits?
I hope this helps others with similar concerns and thanks for the input!
Reference Video: Oil Pump Flow Check
Found a usual video that is showing a fault pressure relief valve in oil pump.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pfASyeoiNcE
Useful! However, what is the bottom of the relief valve is submerged in oil? Aeration will diminish but volume still low?
More to come this weekend.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pfASyeoiNcE
Useful! However, what is the bottom of the relief valve is submerged in oil? Aeration will diminish but volume still low?
More to come this weekend.
Reference Video: Oil Pump Flow Check
Found a useful video that is showing a faulty pressure relief valve in oil pump.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pfASyeoiNcE
Useful! However, what is the bottom of the relief valve is submerged in oil? Aeration will diminish but volume still low?
More to come this weekend.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pfASyeoiNcE
Useful! However, what is the bottom of the relief valve is submerged in oil? Aeration will diminish but volume still low?
More to come this weekend.
Last edited by RED89E34 on Feb 27, 2015 6:21 AM, edited 1 time in total.
Re: M30/B35 Rebuild
have you checked that the oil filter is seating properly in the housing?
i had a situation of the filter collapsing and had no pressure at low revs
i had a situation of the filter collapsing and had no pressure at low revs
Re: M30/B35 Rebuild
I received the adapter for the cylinder head to oil pressure fitting and installed an analog gauge.
Oil pressure at idle and normal operating temperature = <5psi.
Oil pressure at 2-3k RPM and normal operating temperature = <25psi.
I removed the oil pan and found one bolt missing from the oil pump housing. The bolt was for the pressure cirucit, needless to say, that is why the oil light was flickering.
I have a spare M30 and I removed that pump and compared the bolt lengths. The bolt in the car was shorter by maybe 1/4 inch. I installed the longer bolt with loctite after cleaning the bore with parts cleaner. Reinstalled everything and refilled the engine with oil. Started engine...
Oil pressure at idle and cold/normal operating temperature = 25-55psi.
Oil pressure at 1k and above and normal operating temperature = <75psi.
I also discovered the A/C compressor and P/S mounting bolts loose while I was removing everything.
So excited to drive this car around town again!
Oil pressure at idle and normal operating temperature = <5psi.
Oil pressure at 2-3k RPM and normal operating temperature = <25psi.
I removed the oil pan and found one bolt missing from the oil pump housing. The bolt was for the pressure cirucit, needless to say, that is why the oil light was flickering.
I have a spare M30 and I removed that pump and compared the bolt lengths. The bolt in the car was shorter by maybe 1/4 inch. I installed the longer bolt with loctite after cleaning the bore with parts cleaner. Reinstalled everything and refilled the engine with oil. Started engine...
Oil pressure at idle and cold/normal operating temperature = 25-55psi.
Oil pressure at 1k and above and normal operating temperature = <75psi.
I also discovered the A/C compressor and P/S mounting bolts loose while I was removing everything.
So excited to drive this car around town again!
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trevmmeister
- Posts: 847
- Joined: Mar 02, 2014 9:20 PM
- Location: Newnan, GA
Re: M30/B35 Rebuild
Does it SERIOUSLY run up to ~75 psi? Like damn.
Also, thanks for the updates on fixing oil pressure. My M30B34 is flickering the oil pressure light in the cluster at idle right now, so I am looking for tips to tightening up the oil circuit for when i do my partial rebuild in a few weeks.
Great thread so far and I have enjoyed following all the progress.
Also, thanks for the updates on fixing oil pressure. My M30B34 is flickering the oil pressure light in the cluster at idle right now, so I am looking for tips to tightening up the oil circuit for when i do my partial rebuild in a few weeks.
Great thread so far and I have enjoyed following all the progress.
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marc79euro645
- Posts: 513
- Joined: Dec 08, 2008 11:33 PM
Re: M30/B35 Rebuild
My 84 m106 will easily go past 120 psi when cold (50f). I have to be careful not to go past about 3000 rpm until it warms up. Then it will idle at 20 psi and go to about 60psi.
Re: M30/B35 Rebuild
Thanks for reading everyone. I try to get to all relevant messages...
Oil Pump Access M30 Engine:
This isn't step by step but a brief collection of tips from other members from mulitple forums.
Tips:
Raise Engine 2-4 inches.
Remove front anti-sway bar and center link from disconnecting idler arm.
Set engine to TDC cyl. #6 (allows more room for pan to maneuver out).
Have vehicle level but at a comfortable working height if a shop lift isn't available.
Buy the $20 adapter with washer, manual oil pressure gauge and install that bad boy.
To be, I want to install the oil pressure circuit from the oil canister to the turbo. Not a priority as the car needs maintenance over upgrades. Fresh rubber on all four, Moose Engineering control arm bearings, fresh anti sway bar mount bushings.
The tires are great for cruising around town and on the performance side. Once below 3-4/3nds the tires loose performance, survive wet conditions with a cold sweat from the driver and become noisier. We are talking pushing it to the limits. High speed is still responsive.
...
Oil Pump Access M30 Engine:
This isn't step by step but a brief collection of tips from other members from mulitple forums.
Tips:
Raise Engine 2-4 inches.
Remove front anti-sway bar and center link from disconnecting idler arm.
Set engine to TDC cyl. #6 (allows more room for pan to maneuver out).
Have vehicle level but at a comfortable working height if a shop lift isn't available.
Buy the $20 adapter with washer, manual oil pressure gauge and install that bad boy.
To be, I want to install the oil pressure circuit from the oil canister to the turbo. Not a priority as the car needs maintenance over upgrades. Fresh rubber on all four, Moose Engineering control arm bearings, fresh anti sway bar mount bushings.
The tires are great for cruising around town and on the performance side. Once below 3-4/3nds the tires loose performance, survive wet conditions with a cold sweat from the driver and become noisier. We are talking pushing it to the limits. High speed is still responsive.
...