Great to know- now I don't have to make that mistake.Jeremy wrote:The Bosch ones used to be decent and lasted a few years at least. Bosch stopped selling the insert as a repair kit though, and the repair kit brand available now is shit. If it works at all, it doesn't seem to stay that way longer than a year. Most of the time it fails sooner.cek wrote:Everybody says the rebuild kits don't last for shit. I certainly was not impressed with the quality/feel of the rubber in the one I bought for Maytag. Vlad's a keeper so I don't mind paying for a part that I know will last in a situation like this.rmiddendorf wrote: Why do you dislike the rebuild kit? I haven't done one ever but am interested in knowing why so if I have to I can make an educated decision on how to proceed.
What did you do to your E28 today?
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Do you use clip on weights or stick on? Did you find out what they charge to do that from the start? Never seen that as an option.BuzzBomb wrote:I've had a mystery vibration for a while now. It seems like it started about eight months after getting my tires mounted. I've had them rebalanced a few times now, and it hasn't helped(my rotors are fine).
I have a whole new respect for America's Tire store. I bought my tires there originally and got the lifetime balance option. After the third time back with the same issue, they finally offered to "balance match" my wheels and tires. What this means is they find the heaviest side of both the tire and wheel, and oppose them. Then they do their standard balance. It solved everything. You'd think that balance is balance, but it seems not. It's more work, so I get it that they don't offer it on every install, but in my case, it did the trick. I'll always get this done from the beginning now.
They used clip on at first. I was sure that I asked for tape weights the first time, but I guess they knew better.wkohler wrote:Do you use clip on weights or stick on? Did you find out what they charge to do that from the start? Never seen that as an option.BuzzBomb wrote:I've had a mystery vibration for a while now. It seems like it started about eight months after getting my tires mounted. I've had them rebalanced a few times now, and it hasn't helped(my rotors are fine).
I have a whole new respect for America's Tire store. I bought my tires there originally and got the lifetime balance option. After the third time back with the same issue, they finally offered to "balance match" my wheels and tires. What this means is they find the heaviest side of both the tire and wheel, and oppose them. Then they do their standard balance. It solved everything. You'd think that balance is balance, but it seems not. It's more work, so I get it that they don't offer it on every install, but in my case, it did the trick. I'll always get this done from the beginning now.
What they had was a whole lot of weights on a couple of the wheels on the inside and nothing on the outside, which allowed for balance of the assy as a whole, but no balance latitudinally across the wheels. I suppose by the looks of it I had a weight mass on the outside of a few of them causing the unhappiness. Now, between the balancing both unmounted then mounted, plus the tape weights, all is very good.
I was never given that matched balance option, it was only offered as a last resort by the looks of it, by a manager who knew his shit and wanted this resolved as much as I did. I didn't ask what the retail price of the service was, but depending on where you go, you might have it done by just asking, or they might make some excuse not to offer it.
Going forward, it's what I'll ask for.
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Look into the Hunter GSP9700 and Road Force Balancing.BuzzBomb wrote:I was never given that matched balance option, it was only offered as a last resort by the looks of it, by a manager who knew his shit and wanted this resolved as much as I did. I didn't ask what the retail price of the service was, but depending on where you go, you might have it done by just asking, or they might make some excuse not to offer it.
Going forward, it's what I'll ask for.
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/ ... ?techid=40
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I must be lucky, I installed a known good used Heater Valve from the Parts for Sale board and my heat has been great ever since without issue.cek wrote:Everybody says the rebuild kits don't last for shit. I certainly was not impressed with the quality/feel of the rubber in the one I bought for Maytag. Vlad's a keeper so I don't mind paying for a part that I know will last in a situation like this.rmiddendorf wrote: Why do you dislike the rebuild kit? I haven't done one ever but am interested in knowing why so if I have to I can make an educated decision on how to proceed.
Knocking on wood hopefully it stays that way.
If you spend the money for the full heater valve replacement (not just insert), they seem to hold up the best. EXPENSIVE though.Acid House wrote:I must be lucky, I installed a known good used Heater Valve from the Parts for Sale board and my heat has been great ever since without issue.cek wrote:Everybody says the rebuild kits don't last for shit. I certainly was not impressed with the quality/feel of the rubber in the one I bought for Maytag. Vlad's a keeper so I don't mind paying for a part that I know will last in a situation like this.rmiddendorf wrote: Why do you dislike the rebuild kit? I haven't done one ever but am interested in knowing why so if I have to I can make an educated decision on how to proceed.
Knocking on wood hopefully it stays that way.
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Commonly known as "roadforce balanced"- tech's usually never want it do it unless they have too- they have to move the tire around the rim after it is mounted ( not easy)BuzzBomb wrote:They used clip on at first. I was sure that I asked for tape weights the first time, but I guess they knew better.wkohler wrote:Do you use clip on weights or stick on? Did you find out what they charge to do that from the start? Never seen that as an option.BuzzBomb wrote:I've had a mystery vibration for a while now. It seems like it started about eight months after getting my tires mounted. I've had them rebalanced a few times now, and it hasn't helped(my rotors are fine).
I have a whole new respect for America's Tire store. I bought my tires there originally and got the lifetime balance option. After the third time back with the same issue, they finally offered to "balance match" my wheels and tires. What this means is they find the heaviest side of both the tire and wheel, and oppose them. Then they do their standard balance. It solved everything. You'd think that balance is balance, but it seems not. It's more work, so I get it that they don't offer it on every install, but in my case, it did the trick. I'll always get this done from the beginning now.
What they had was a whole lot of weights on a couple of the wheels on the inside and nothing on the outside, which allowed for balance of the assy as a whole, but no balance latitudinally across the wheels. I suppose by the looks of it I had a weight mass on the outside of a few of them causing the unhappiness. Now, between the balancing both unmounted then mounted, plus the tape weights, all is very good.
I was never given that matched balance option, it was only offered as a last resort by the looks of it, by a manager who knew his shit and wanted this resolved as much as I did. I didn't ask what the retail price of the service was, but depending on where you go, you might have it done by just asking, or they might make some excuse not to offer it.
Going forward, it's what I'll ask for.
Did they give you the roadforce spec on your wheels? Lower the number the better the balance....
I purchased one from Matt (Bimmerguy2002) about 4 or 5 years ago and it's still working in my winter DD. If it were to fail and I could not source used I would buy an new one. Heat in Wisconsin this winter is critical! We had temps as low as -25 here.Acid House wrote:I must be lucky, I installed a known good used Heater Valve from the Parts for Sale board and my heat has been great ever since without issue.cek wrote:Everybody says the rebuild kits don't last for shit. I certainly was not impressed with the quality/feel of the rubber in the one I bought for Maytag. Vlad's a keeper so I don't mind paying for a part that I know will last in a situation like this.rmiddendorf wrote: Why do you dislike the rebuild kit? I haven't done one ever but am interested in knowing why so if I have to I can make an educated decision on how to proceed.
Knocking on wood hopefully it stays that way.
On another note I removed my grill, and front bumper trim for cleaning and painting on my 533i. Pics will follow when done.
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Oil change. I was surprised by how clean the oil still looked as it came out after 4k miles. Found a small coolant leak. The clamp on the small line to the coolant tank wasn't tight enough and it was bleeding pressure. Tried to adjust the idle down and found the ICV was already adjusted as far as it would go. Cumulative wear and age vacuum leaks I'm guessing, maybe it needs new intake manifold seals. It idles at 900 rpm warm, so I'm not terribly concerned.
Ordered fog light lenses for the air dam. I'm glad I did some searching and found the numbers off RealOEM based on the E30 M3's air dam. No more cracked lenses with silicone or worn out reflectors for me anymore! Hope they were the correct ones.
Part numbers: 63171385067/68 As listed on RealOEM
Also ordered a catback exhaust from IE. Resonator's cracked, and a smog inspection is needed by March. Can't wait to hear that once it's on. Have to get it welded together at the muffler shop though, since my dad doesn't have a welder.
Part numbers: 63171385067/68 As listed on RealOEM
Also ordered a catback exhaust from IE. Resonator's cracked, and a smog inspection is needed by March. Can't wait to hear that once it's on. Have to get it welded together at the muffler shop though, since my dad doesn't have a welder.
Fog light lenses came in today, so I installed them.
You can view the pictures here: Fog Lights Album
You can view the pictures here: Fog Lights Album
Fixed the power headrests
...using the 8mm fuel line hose trick. Took less than a half hour for both seats and worked like a charm.
Also took out a couple more useless wires from an old alarm system that a PO had installed and subsequently disabled because it was draining the battery. Seems like every time I open the hood I find another wire that literally "goes nowhere" .
Also took out a couple more useless wires from an old alarm system that a PO had installed and subsequently disabled because it was draining the battery. Seems like every time I open the hood I find another wire that literally "goes nowhere" .
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Replaced the windshield wiper linkage after I had the broken one welded. I've got a good one coming, just in case the welding job doesn't work.
While I was at it I soaked the blower bushings, but I didn't literally submerge them in oil, as has been suggested. All I did was put a few drops on them every day until I put everything back together. I don't see how the bushings can know the difference. But the blower was working anyway, so we'll see how long this puts off the dreaded squeak.
While I was at it I soaked the blower bushings, but I didn't literally submerge them in oil, as has been suggested. All I did was put a few drops on them every day until I put everything back together. I don't see how the bushings can know the difference. But the blower was working anyway, so we'll see how long this puts off the dreaded squeak.
Installed a set of ST sway bars that I bought used off a forum member, then had powder coated a pretty shade of blue. Used new poly bushings with lube from Energy Suspensions.
Now I'm trying to decide if I should keep going with the suspension upgrades (MTech springs and shocks) or just enjoy it the way it is for awhile. It actually handles pretty well with the stock "is" suspension.
Also received the two steering bracket reinforcements I just purchased from MWrench (Ed Raether)...one for my E28 and one for my E24. I'll be installing those this week, and looking for a shop to weld them in place.
Now I'm trying to decide if I should keep going with the suspension upgrades (MTech springs and shocks) or just enjoy it the way it is for awhile. It actually handles pretty well with the stock "is" suspension.
Also received the two steering bracket reinforcements I just purchased from MWrench (Ed Raether)...one for my E28 and one for my E24. I'll be installing those this week, and looking for a shop to weld them in place.
What sort of warranty did you get on the coating? AFAIK, powder coatings have no flex at all. I'm guessing that the coating will crack and start to flake off shortly after installation.LarryM wrote:Installed a set of ST sway bars that I bought used off a forum member, then had powder coated a pretty shade of blue.
I've read about this concern, but ST bars are powder coated from the factory when new, as were the RD bars on my E24 (over 10 years old and still looking good). However, I don't stress them too much since neither car is tracked (or for that matter driven through road salt, gravel roads, etc.). With enough abuse I suppose any finish would deteriorate.Jeremy wrote:What sort of warranty did you get on the coating? AFAIK, powder coatings have no flex at all. I'm guessing that the coating will crack and start to flake off shortly after installation.LarryM wrote:Installed a set of ST sway bars that I bought used off a forum member, then had powder coated a pretty shade of blue.
Time will tell, I guess. Maybe I'll wait another 10 years and see what happens.
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Did the rear brakes with new rotors, pads, and ebrakes. All in my parking lot, using only the car's jack and a wheel chock. Is it just me, or does the bently manual's torque specs for the the calipers and carriers seem awfully light. 25ish for the calipers and less than 50 for the carriers... I know i probably put 150+ ftlbs to get the carrier bolts off. But hey, the rotor set screws came out easy
Installed an MWrench (Ed Raether) steering box bracket reinforcement on both the E24 and E28 yesterday, and had them welded up today.
For the welding I decided to take the cars to a reputable local shop that specializes in installing heavy-duty trailer hitches, assuming they were pretty proficient welders; I wasn't disappointed. The weld on these dowels isn't critical, but I wanted some nicely-laid beads rather than something done by a recent grad from a vocational training program (or worse).
Finished up at home with some black spray paint and the installation on both cars looks factory.
For the welding I decided to take the cars to a reputable local shop that specializes in installing heavy-duty trailer hitches, assuming they were pretty proficient welders; I wasn't disappointed. The weld on these dowels isn't critical, but I wanted some nicely-laid beads rather than something done by a recent grad from a vocational training program (or worse).
Finished up at home with some black spray paint and the installation on both cars looks factory.