Noob M30B35 Build

[Mike W.]

That's an awfully damn clean engine to be pulling out. Looks like you really keep up on it, usually only the new one going in is nice and shiny.

[tig]

Yea. I have a big ?? about what I'm going to do with the old engine. Current plan is to store it and find an chassis that would love a high mileage turbo and use it as an excuse to learn forced induction, of which I know nothing except general principles.

[tig]

Not a ton of time to wrench today...

I freed the AC compressor and used zip ties to hold it in a place where the hoses aren't being strained and it'll be out of the way.



I've never done transmission work before so I'm just kinda plodding along. I read Bentley on how to remove the shift linkage and that's coming along. The rubber boot had a rip in it already and basically fell apart in my hand as I pushed the wire for the backup sensor through.



I'll be ordering a new one. While I'm at ordering parts, what other shifter related parts are worth replacing while in there? I have half a mind to do a short shift kit. I liked the one that was on my 540 M-Sport (UUC) but don't have any issues with the way this car shifts either.

Recall that I do have a new clutch and clutch kit...

[tig]

I'm still contemplating the drop or out the top plan.

While under the car today I planned on taking off the tie rod arms. Then I realized my rod end puller really won't fit in there easily. I also don't have a 17mm spanner for loosening the bolts on the drag links. What originally seemed like a straight forward task became harder.

Since my son is off reffing lacrosse today I'm solo so I can't really pull the engine anyway I figured I'd toy around with how the hoist would work with the car on the lift in the garage.

I can def make it fit in front of the car, and assuming I could lift the engine & transmission high enough to clear the top of the AC condenser I could maneuver the hoist around the front of the car (or lift the car all the way up on the lift and just go under).




However, my hoist has poor "reach" when set for 1/2 ton and the engine will want to come forward ~6" once there's tension on it and the mounts are undone. The engine/transmission are about 500lbs, right? That's 1/4 ton... maybe I can put the hoist at 1/4 ton still be w/in safety margins?



If I did that then there'd not be a reach problem, but it might be more tricky maneuvering the hoist w/ engine hanging on it around the front of the car.

[elcrazon]

I pulled a m30 from my e24 using that hoist, presuming it's the one from harbor freight, in the 1/4ton position and it worked fine, though I had the bumpers off and it was still a bit tight. I'd guess you probably have about the same clearances due to the much deeper front clip on the e24. Use of a load leveler was pretty much essential to get the right angles, but I had mine much closer to the boom since the hook wasn't attached by a length of chain. When I put it back I used a Torin hoist that had ~5" more reach on the arm, and that made it a bit easier to maneuver.

[Nanajoth]

I suggest pulling the hood, I pulled mine by myself and rubbed the underside of the hood which was no big deal since I am doing a repaint. I was not using a leveler, which would help you out. I also had the front jacked up on the lowest setting on a pair of jack stands.

[mitch5]

From my experience, the best way for pulling the m30 with trans attached was to just undo the hood shocks(where they attach to the car) and just stick the hood straight up. I would suggest pulling the engine in the drive way where you have lots of open space. By time you extend the boom and lift the engine to clear the core, you will have very little room in a garage.

[wkohler]

Yeah, get the car off the lift. That's not helping. Get everything unbolted using the lift, roll the car outside, put the hood straight up and go from there. I didn't put the hood straight up when I did it, but I pulled just the engine. Reason being, I was going to leave it in the car when I sent it to the yard but a friend needed a motor. Otherwise, I'd have done motor and trans together. Here I was with a car that had no suspension on it and couldn't move facing outward in my garage. I soon discovered that the garage door was in the way, so I had to put the floor jack under the front subframe, remove the stands and lower the car as far as it would go. It was tricky but it went like butter.

I did everything myself.

[John McA]

Load leveler closer to engine, is better, up to a point. Jack stands? Check.

I pulled m30 and 5sp tranny w/o messing with hood this way and solo too - I think this really is a better single person deal to do..
Just take it slow, check it out multiple times, stay focused and, don't imbibe. With the trans it's likely close 1 kip (1000lbs) and, has value. Have an engine stand ready. I first mounted it (the stand) on the side of the block and, found it more stable plus able to do the work on the flyw side.

Good Luck,
Great pics,
John McA

[tig]

Woo-hoo!!!!!

With the help of CJ and his buddy we dropped the engine out today. It went pretty much as I planned.









I'll do it through the bottom again, but next time I'm removing the headers first.

I plan on putting the new engine in through top though without the transmission attached.

[wkohler]

What happened to your firewall insulation? Did that happen during the removal? Before you put the new motor in, you might want to address that!

Glad the motor came out without issue.

[tig]

What happened to your firewall insulation? Did that happen during the removal? Before you put the new motor in, you might want to address that!

Glad the motor came out without issue.

It was already damaged some. We had to rotate the engine a little when dropping..
I should have removed the headers first... the hook caught it.

[tig]

I've searched the forums for info on replacement firewall insulation. The OEM stuff is apparently NLA. None of the threads were very helpful on what alternatives to use.

I found a few references to a Dynamat product as well as JC Whitney. The Dynamat stuff is apparently intended as a hood liner:
http://www.dynamat.com/automotive-and-t ... hoodliner/

The JC Whitney stuff looks like it will work, but it's hard to tell from the website.
http://www.jcwhitney.com/bonded-logic-h ... terid=u0j1

Can someone who's replaced theirs please chime in with what you used and suggestions.

[tig]

This big piece just came off. Is it supposed to do that?







I don't have to take the old clutch off right? My new Sachs clutch kit should have everything I need, and I have a new flywheel...

Now I gotta figure out where I'm going to store the old engine.

[kzolee]

The kit includes everything, what You will need. You can leave the clutch and flywheel on the old engine.

[tig]

The kit includes everything, what You will need. You can leave the clutch and flywheel on the old engine.

Thanks!

I cleaned that thing that came off the back of the engine and discovered it was a 5 speed transmission. Who knew?











I'm putting in a UUC short shift kit BTW.

Someone said I should replace the transmission seals. I looked in Bentley's and it is not clear what seals should be replaced. In fact it basically says "if you don't know what you are doing, don't even begin taking the transmission apart." Well that would be me.

I'm getting to the point in this job that I'm tempted to get my check-wrench out for things like this. I assume any competent Euro transmission shop could do the seals for me if I dropped it off? Or is it just super easy and there's some great FAQ (or wiki!) somewhere that will help me? Of course I searched, but all I found were references to people saying they either were going to replace their seals or had done so.

[muz]

Amazing what a cleanup can reveal! You could also use a Z3 shifter, not very expensive and they feel great to use, in between a short shifter kit and standard. IMHO a short shifter is great for the track but soon becomes tedious on the road.

[Rav335uk]

Nice work...

[Kyle in NO]

Change the shifter seal, input shaft seal, and output shaft seal.

[wkohler]

You also better change the pivot pin for the clutch fork.

If you don't already have one, I've got a new UUC lever. I will never use it.

[tig]

Thanks for asking the question I asked guys. Sheesh. I'm not asking if I should replace the transmission seals, I'm asking for instructions on HOW to replace the seals.

I finished yesterday up by doing an initial clean of the engine bay. Just a bit of degreaser, water, and some elbow grease.



Today I started digging into the firewall. Step one is to take lots of pictures so when I put the replacement firewall insulation on (assuming I can find something suitable...) I can place it correctly. I'm only going to replace the insulation to the right (left in these pics) of the heater core inlet/outlet. I'm also cleaning the aluminum shielding pieces.







Der Brake Bomb will be replaced while I'm in here too.



Now I'm going to pull off the heater fan cover and pull the heater fan and refurbish it...

[tig]

You also better change the pivot pin for the clutch fork.

My clutch kit came with one.

I had ordered the clutch kit last summer and the parts had been distributed around. I just collected everything into one place, along with my UUC shift kit.

[tig]

I was able to pull the shiny part of the insulation off mostly in-tact so that I'll be able to use it as a template for the new material.





27+ years of crap.


Never had any noise issues with this blower, so i'm just going to put some oil on the spindles and call it good.



Question: Any R&R necessary on the wiper motor/mechanism while I'm in there? I was going to put some white lithium grease on the mechanism.

[tig]

This is the coolant tank overflow hose. Where does it drain on the bottom of the car? I can't find it. I don't want to pull it out if I don't know where to route the replacement.



When one replaces the brake bomb, does one just unscrew it and replace just it?

Note the brake master was replaced by the PO at 164k with one from a 740.

[wkohler]

Thanks for asking the question I asked guys. Sheesh. I'm not asking if I should replace the transmission seals, I'm asking for instructions on HOW to replace the seals.

I didn't realize that people cannot function without a Wiki.

https://www.bmwtechinfo.com/repair/main ... tm/351.htm
https://www.bmwtechinfo.com/repair/main ... tm/352.htm

All of your questions are easily answered by searching. It's easier to remove the bomb from the regulator out of the car, but it can be done in the car. Hardest part is loosening it up. Don't forget about the o-ring. Ideally, you should take this opportunity to replace all of your power steering return hoses, the filter in the canister and the pressure switches in the regulator. Perhaps someone parting out a car can sell you a good piece of insulation. The overflow hose just goes down next to the frame rail.

[tig]

Thanks Chris. Can you point me to a wiki or something that will teach me the searches you used to find those guides?

Serious cleaning has been done.

[Justin_FL]

I was going a little OCD myself, too. Just a quick clean and then some tar remover for the dark stuff righti front of the tire. Couldn't find a toothbrush to get the little bits.

[tig]

Justin, nice work!

Some bling.

[wkohler]

It's not easy work but I think once it's done, maintenance won't be so bad. It's certainly overwhelming at first.

[tig]

I get a sort of perverse pleasure out of cleaning wheel wells. The cosmoline on my 911 was horrific. After:



CJ hasn't been able to help me all day because he's been at lacrosse practice. But he did just bring me sustenance. Chipotle FTW.



Brake regulator/bomb out. I think i'm now at the point where everything that can be deconstructed has been. I even put the heater blower back in...