Added OEM Oil Cooler System, Now Low Pressure Under 1800 RPM
Added OEM Oil Cooler System, Now Low Pressure Under 1800 RPM
So I test fitted an oil cooler setup from a Euro 535. Now, the oil light stays on below around 1800 RPM.
Were there any modifications done to Euro M30B34 engine blocks to maintain oil pressure at idle while using an oil cooler? Any other ideas?
Were there any modifications done to Euro M30B34 engine blocks to maintain oil pressure at idle while using an oil cooler? Any other ideas?
Don't forget to fill the cooler by pouring oil into the hoses before connecting it. In most cases during street driving, it's unlikely you will get the oil hot enough to open the thermostat. I forgot to fill the cooler when I installed mine and a few thousand miles later it was still empty, indicating the thermostat had never opened. Thankfully. I don't think any of this relates to your low oil pressure however. It sounds like some kind of bypass valve problem, like using a B34 canister on a B35 block.
I'm not aware of any problems using a US B34 block with a cooler, mine was a Euro block but I did mount one to a US block the other day and should be able to start the engine in another couple of days.
I'm not aware of any problems using a US B34 block with a cooler, mine was a Euro block but I did mount one to a US block the other day and should be able to start the engine in another couple of days.
I'm guilty of both of these. I didn't fill the cooler. It did take over 6 quarts finally though, so I'm pretty sure it's full now. As far as the filter head issue, I'm thinking that is more likely the problem. The block is a transitional B35. Feb 89 e24, so originally a B34 style filter head, but I don't know if it was different internally. The block casting uses the #12 gasket. This cooler head is completely open, and uses the #2 gasket.ahab wrote:Don't forget to fill the cooler by pouring oil into the hoses before connecting it. In most cases during street driving, it's unlikely you will get the oil hot enough to open the thermostat. I forgot to fill the cooler when I installed mine and a few thousand miles later it was still empty, indicating the thermostat had never opened. Thankfully. I don't think any of this relates to your low oil pressure however. It sounds like some kind of bypass valve problem, like using a B34 canister on a B35 block.
I'm not aware of any problems using a US B34 block with a cooler, mine was a Euro block but I did mount one to a US block the other day and should be able to start the engine in another couple of days.
The cooler will only fill when the oil is hot enough to open the thermostat and allow the oil to flow into it. If that didn't happen then there is no oil in it. An M30 with a filter will take nearly 6 quarts on its own. You might want to pull a cooler line and check for copious amounts of oil. As for the block, a B34 housing on a B35 block (which an 89 E24 has) will result in low oil pressure at idle. Search for demetk's post on the issue.
Yes, that was my fix, although you do have me concerned enough about the type of gasket in there now for me to revisit that fix.BuzzBomb wrote:In his thread, he just used the e34 upright housing to solve his issue. Is there a mod/fix to run a B34 oil cooler on a B35 block?ahab wrote:As for the block, a B34 housing on a B35 block (which an 89 E24 has) will result in low oil pressure at idle. Search for demetk's post on the issue.
There is a b35 oil filter housing that has oil cooler ports.
To run the B34 housing on a b35 block, you need to plug a hole in one of the chambers. It should already be threaded.
The plug is a DIN 908 screw plug. M10x1. Just thread it into the hole. It will tighten and seal like an NPT fitting. Done.
If you have to have BMW parts, the part number is 11 12 7 539 543.
The plug is a DIN 908 screw plug. M10x1. Just thread it into the hole. It will tighten and seal like an NPT fitting. Done.
If you have to have BMW parts, the part number is 11 12 7 539 543.
I will be checking it this weekend. Thanks for the info on the plug. I'm assuming this info is in the archives somewhere?BuzzBomb wrote:If your casting looks like mine, deeply consider getting gasket #12.demetk wrote: Yes, that was my fix, although you do have me concerned enough about the type of gasket in there now for me to revisit that fix.
Don't know. I looked briefly but nothing came up that was as helpful as Chris' comment in this case.demetk wrote:I will be checking it this weekend. Thanks for the info on the plug. I'm assuming this info is in the archives somewhere?BuzzBomb wrote:If your casting looks like mine, deeply consider getting gasket #12.demetk wrote: Yes, that was my fix, although you do have me concerned enough about the type of gasket in there now for me to revisit that fix.
Same here. It's amazing how he retains all of this information. Deep respect Chris!BuzzBomb wrote:Don't know. I looked briefly but nothing came up that was as helpful as Chris' comment in this case.demetk wrote:I will be checking it this weekend. Thanks for the info on the plug. I'm assuming this info is in the archives somewhere?BuzzBomb wrote:If your casting looks like mine, deeply consider getting gasket #12.demetk wrote: Yes, that was my fix, although you do have me concerned enough about the type of gasket in there now for me to revisit that fix.
No deference to Chris, Shawn D posted the plug info a while back. I had forgotten its significance in this situation. Anyway, as usual, Chris did not and and even pulled out some part numbers!
I would take a cooler line off and fill the cooler manually (and, it was actually Chris who brought that to my attention when I installed mine too!). I suspect that the cooler will fill as oil exits the journals and re-enters the sump, however the last thing I would want when the temps are good and hot is an interruption of flow as oil is diverted to the cooler via the now open thermostat.
I would take a cooler line off and fill the cooler manually (and, it was actually Chris who brought that to my attention when I installed mine too!). I suspect that the cooler will fill as oil exits the journals and re-enters the sump, however the last thing I would want when the temps are good and hot is an interruption of flow as oil is diverted to the cooler via the now open thermostat.