Noob M30B35 Build

Post by **tig** » May 26, 2014 1:17 PM

Thanks for asking the question I asked guys. Sheesh. I'm not asking if I should replace the transmission seals, I'm asking for instructions on HOW to replace the seals.

I finished yesterday up by doing an initial clean of the engine bay. Just a bit of degreaser, water, and some elbow grease.

Today I started digging into the firewall. Step one is to take lots of pictures so when I put the replacement firewall insulation on (assuming I can find something suitable...) I can place it correctly. I'm only going to replace the insulation to the right (left in these pics) of the heater core inlet/outlet. I'm also cleaning the aluminum shielding pieces.

Der Brake Bomb will be replaced while I'm in here too.

Now I'm going to pull off the heater fan cover and pull the heater fan and refurbish it...

Post by **tig** » May 26, 2014 1:48 PM

wkohler wrote:You also better change the pivot pin for the clutch fork.

My clutch kit came with one.

I had ordered the clutch kit last summer and the parts had been distributed around. I just collected everything into one place, along with my UUC shift kit.

Post by **tig** » May 26, 2014 2:56 PM

I was able to pull the shiny part of the insulation off mostly in-tact so that I'll be able to use it as a template for the new material.

27+ years of crap.

Never had any noise issues with this blower, so i'm just going to put some oil on the spindles and call it good.

Question: Any R&R necessary on the wiper motor/mechanism while I'm in there? I was going to put some white lithium grease on the mechanism.

Post by **tig** » May 26, 2014 3:25 PM

This is the coolant tank overflow hose. Where does it drain on the bottom of the car? I can't find it. I don't want to pull it out if I don't know where to route the replacement.

When one replaces the brake bomb, does one just unscrew it and replace just it?

Note the brake master was replaced by the PO at 164k with one from a 740.

wkohler · Post by **wkohler** » May 26, 2014 3:39 PM

cek wrote:Thanks for asking the question I asked guys. Sheesh. I'm not asking if I should replace the transmission seals, I'm asking for instructions on HOW to replace the seals.

I didn't realize that people cannot function without a Wiki.

https://www.bmwtechinfo.com/repair/main ... tm/351.htm
https://www.bmwtechinfo.com/repair/main ... tm/352.htm

All of your questions are easily answered by searching. It's easier to remove the bomb from the regulator out of the car, but it can be done in the car. Hardest part is loosening it up. Don't forget about the o-ring. Ideally, you should take this opportunity to replace all of your power steering return hoses, the filter in the canister and the pressure switches in the regulator. Perhaps someone parting out a car can sell you a good piece of insulation. The overflow hose just goes down next to the frame rail.

Post by **tig** » May 26, 2014 4:41 PM

Thanks Chris. Can you point me to a wiki or something that will teach me the searches you used to find those guides?

Serious cleaning has been done.

Post by **Justin_FL** » May 26, 2014 6:12 PM

I was going a little OCD myself, too. Just a quick clean and then some tar remover for the dark stuff righti front of the tire. Couldn't find a toothbrush to get the little bits.

Post by **tig** » May 26, 2014 6:17 PM

Justin, nice work!

Some bling.

wkohler · Post by **wkohler** » May 26, 2014 6:57 PM

It's not easy work but I think once it's done, maintenance won't be so bad. It's certainly overwhelming at first.

Post by **tig** » May 26, 2014 7:11 PM

I get a sort of perverse pleasure out of cleaning wheel wells. The cosmoline on my 911 was horrific. After:

CJ hasn't been able to help me all day because he's been at lacrosse practice. But he did just bring me sustenance. Chipotle FTW.

Brake regulator/bomb out. I think i'm now at the point where everything that can be deconstructed has been. I even put the heater blower back in...

Post by **tig** » May 26, 2014 10:11 PM

Had a coupon for HF and bought one of these little dollys.

Now tucked away until I decide what I want to do with it...with my growing collection of E28 stuff.

Boom!

I hate painting things, but I guess I really gotta paint the steering box or it's just gonna look like shit.

Subframe reinforcement kit ordered from Ed. The nut/bolt was loose, but the welds still look fine. Once I get the reinforcement dowel welded in this goes to the powder coater.

trevmmeister · Post by **trevmmeister** » May 27, 2014 5:45 AM

It is uhh... 5:45 AM. I started reading this thread at about 11 PM. I have very much enjoyed that time.

Post by **tig** » May 27, 2014 4:26 PM

Glad I could pleasure you.

dsmith · Post by **dsmith** » May 27, 2014 11:57 PM

I feel like I just did that over the weekend. Oh yea, cuz I did. Pulled it from the top. I couldn't be bothered with all of that powder coating and plating and such, though. Just cleaned everything and replaced seals, gaskets, hoses, shifter stuff etc. I have belts, radiator, driveshaft and exhaust left to install. Hopefully, will have my 533is running this weekend.

Keep up the good work! It's gonna be purteeeee!

Mike W. · Post by **Mike W.** » May 28, 2014 9:56 AM

Looks good! Yeah, sometimes doing an engine or the like I swear I spend more time cleaning and painting than I do wrenching. But in the future it's so much nicer dealing with clean parts not 30 years of grime and leaks and cosmoline and road grit.

tn535i · Post by **tn535i** » May 29, 2014 6:03 PM

Mike W. wrote:Looks good! Yeah, sometimes doing an engine or the like I swear I spend more time cleaning and painting than I do wrenching. But in the future it's so much nicer dealing with clean parts not 30 years of grime and leaks and cosmoline and road grit.

It seems like everything I do I spend more time hunting for tools and such, cleaning, overthinking, double checking, putting things back or sometimes NOT (which is why I spend so much time hunting), cleaning myself up, and so on... then I ever actually spend working on the thing itself.

Anyway, nice work and enjoy following the progress...

Post by **tig** » May 29, 2014 11:21 PM

Took the tranny to a local shop. They can't get the output/prop nut off. Claim they even soaked it with PB blaster and borrowed a 3/4" impact from next door after their 1/2" wouldn't do the trick.

Glad I didn't try it myself, but this basically means, i think that once this transmission runs out of steam...its done.

Is it typical for these to be next to impossible to take off? These guys come recommended by local BMW (e30) dudes so I have no choice but to believe them.

It was not leaking through rear seal so I'm not too bummed about this, but still...

Mike W. · Post by **Mike W.** » May 29, 2014 11:52 PM

There have been a couple of guys here that couldn't get that nut off. I've done a few and it was no big deal, maybe 100 foot pounds? Nothing, absolutely nothing like the nut on the front end of the crank. My only guess is salt and rust. Oh, while it is out I would emphatically replace the selector shaft seal. Those always seem to leak at 50K plus. The new technique, which I haven't tried yet, is to just pound the new one in on top of the old one. That's not really my style, but I can see where it might work better, the outer just has to stop what gets by the inner.

wkohler · Post by **wkohler** » May 30, 2014 2:58 AM

Just did my selector shaft seal in the 260/5 today while putting in my super old old old old old old old old old stock (asbestos lining) clutch. It seriously takes like 5 minutes to get the old one out with a pick and a screwdriver. Fixed. Done. Easy peasy. Never had a problem with the output flange, but it's easier to really put torque on it in the car. Same with the flange on the diff. We had a hell of a time getting the old pilot bearing out though. Wow.

Post by **tig** » May 30, 2014 10:29 AM

Got this.

Now off to get it welded into place...

slammin_e28 · Post by **slammin_e28** » May 30, 2014 10:41 AM

Mike W. wrote:The new technique, which I haven't tried yet, is to just pound the new one in on top of the old one. That's not really my style, but I can see where it might work better, the outer just has to stop what gets by the inner.

Works like a cha-cha-charm. Did mine that way when I put the B35 in the touring. It was leaking badly too.

Fun part is when the new seal wears out and you have to get it out to replace it.

vinceg101 · Post by **vinceg101** » May 30, 2014 2:04 PM

Yeah, I too got a little clean-crazy this past weekend when doing the rear end replacement on the M535:

I couldn't put in all this new shiny stuff on top of all that grime, could I?

(Apologies for the less the desirable photo quality)

Post by **tig** » May 30, 2014 8:42 PM

Exciting stuff: Picked tranny up from shop. All seals but output shaft seal replaced.

Dropped subframe off a favorite muffler shop to have the re-enforcement dowel welded in. Should be ready Monday.

foolish · Post by **foolish** » May 30, 2014 9:41 PM

I've used a plumbers torch on the output flange nut followed by impact gun with success. I think its easy enough to remove and replace a leaky seal rather than doubling em up. The car is looking super clean.

Post by **tig** » May 31, 2014 1:52 PM

New brake bomb & hoses installed.

Mike W. · Post by **Mike W.** » Jun 01, 2014 12:15 AM

foolish wrote:I've used a plumbers torch on the output flange nut followed by impact gun with success. I think its easy enough to remove and replace a leaky seal rather than doubling em up. The car is looking super clean.

The problem with that is if it's not successful you have now trashed the existing seal. I'd rather drill it and split it.

Post by **tig** » Jun 01, 2014 3:40 PM

The flange on the bav auto headers is thinner than the original exhaust manifolds (about 9mm compared to ~15mm).

I plan on putting the headers on AFTER the engine is in the car, to ease installation (I'm also going to be putting the tranny on after).

Even if I weren't going to do this, several of the nuts are very challenging to get a wrench around.

I'd like to use shorter studs. The stock studs are M8 & 40mm long. Any issue with me using these 35mm studs from McMaster? Is stainless a good or bad idea for this?

http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-threaded-rods/=s80ha5

muz · Post by **muz** » Jun 01, 2014 5:21 PM

I would use the standard studs, stainless is not necessary however copper washers and nuts are: so as the nuts do not seize on the studs down the track. Shorter studs are fine but they need to be long enough so that all the thread of the nut is used.

Post by **tig** » Jun 01, 2014 5:34 PM

muz wrote:I would use the standard studs, stainless is not necessary however copper washers and nuts are: so as the nuts do not seize on the studs down the track. Shorter studs are fine but they need to be long enough so that all the thread of the nut is used.

I've measured and taking 5mm off will still allow plenty of thread to still stick out of nut.

Post by **tig** » Jun 01, 2014 5:55 PM

I got the steering box painted.

I will be taking my strut bar and subframe to be powder coated. I really want the strut bar to be the same aluminum as the intake manifold, but I want the subframe to be standard black. Once you pick a color the cost of additional pieces is small so I decided I would go ahead and coat a bunch of other stuff that I wasn't originally planning on.

This includes the alternator housing.

I figured if I took the alternator apart and something broke (since I don't know what I'm doing), it wouldn't be the end of the world as I still have the 115A unit that's been on the M30B34 from Vlad. I had to use an easy-out to get two of the small screws on the front cover off; they stripped immediately wen I tried removing them even though I had soaked them in PB blaster. Besides that the alternator came apart as expected.

After cleaning the housing with the soda blaster and the insides with parts cleaner and a scrub brush, I could see that all connections look strong and there's not a ton of wear.

I had some orange high-temp engine paint and decided the orange highlight, instead of the original rusty red, would look interesting, so i painted the outside of the stator. It's going to look pretty neat with the casing powder coated brilliant aluminum. It won't satisfy OCCoupe, but oh, well.

Post by **tig** » Jun 02, 2014 8:56 PM

I now have everything I need for the trip to the powder coat place tomorrow...I hope.

msam1911 · Post by **msam1911** » Jun 03, 2014 11:05 AM

I'm living my Zinno rebuild vicariously through this awesome thread - great inspiration! Question: You mentioned you wanted an exhaust with a different tone than the IE... Did you find it to be obnoxiously loud? My 535is somehow came with a single pipe exhaust so I need to replace it. I was between stock and IE, but I don't want my car to sound like somebody's Civic.

I appreciate your/everyone's input.

Thanks

Post by **tig** » Jun 03, 2014 11:20 AM

msam1911 wrote:I'm living my Zinno rebuild vicariously through this awesome thread - great inspiration! Question: You mentioned you wanted an exhaust with a different tone than the IE... Did you find it to be obnoxiously loud? My 535is somehow came with a single pipe exhaust so I need to replace it. I was between stock and IE, but I don't want my car to sound like somebody's Civic.

I appreciate your/everyone's input.

Thanks

When I first installed the exhaust I loved it. Over time I realized what people meant by a drone at 2500 rpm. My goal is to get rid of the drone. The exhaust note is great. Not too loud.

Post by **tig** » Jun 04, 2014 9:50 PM

I'm toying with different replacement firewall insulation options.

Option 1: Try to find a replacement OE piece from a parts car. I am skeptical I can find something in good enough shape. But I'm looking.
Option 2: The stuff below from JC Whitney. It's good good thickness, but the fact that it's fiber and not rubber concerns me a little. It will look great and will probably insulate just fine. But will it last?
Option 3: I've found some, apparently, good neophene rubber that appears to be about the thickness of the OE rubber. Combining that with some insulation that's just the thin shiny/reflective aluminum might work.

Would love more opinions and thoughts from others on what they've done.

muz · Post by **muz** » Jun 07, 2014 6:05 AM

I think that the fibre insulation will be just fine, what about spraying it with black body deadener prior to application, this could be the glue to stick it on, mask up the shinny bit. I would experiment first.

I'm interested to know what you pay for powder coating. I was quoted $320 AU for rocker cover and inlet manifold. Seems excessive IMO.

Crazy_Canuck · Post by **Crazy_Canuck** » Jun 07, 2014 3:56 PM

Do not use that fiber insulation, it will get wet and not dry out.

That fiber insulation, from JC Whitney, is ment to be used inside the car.

slimdevil27 · Post by **slimdevil27** » Jun 08, 2014 5:13 AM

Look to the original purpose.....sound deadener and radiant heat reflector. Most sound deadeners, like dynamat, have the reflective facing. The printed name on the reflective surface will most often come off with green brake parts cleaner. Peel and stick, simple as that.

trevmmeister · Post by **trevmmeister** » Jun 09, 2014 10:57 PM

Moar updatz pleez cek. I am starting to lose interest in life due to lack of pictures of your engine/overall project.

Post by **tig** » Jun 09, 2014 11:09 PM

My son graduating from high school has taken priority the last few weeks. But that is done.

We are now empty nesters and our kids are now simply house guests. Hahahaha.

Powder coater says parts will be ready tomorrow.

trevmmeister · Post by **trevmmeister** » Jun 09, 2014 11:49 PM

Oh awesome! Congratulations to him, I just graduated high school myself last month. Good to hear, where is the list of parts that are being coated again? Forget what page that was on.