Noob M30B35 Build

[miamibeamer]

I'm so glad to find you thread! I have a 1987 BMW 535is in red in completely original condition beautifully kept inside and out. I love my car except that's an automatic. Even though it drives very strong I'm going to install a manual transmission as soon as I can...I even bought a donor 1986 533i. I've done quite a lot of research and althou I've never done this type of job, I'm pretty confident I can pull it off. Thanks for taking the time to post your work! Awesome work!

[tig]

You'll recall I found this stuff to replace the firewall insulation:

UPDATE May 8, 2020: DO NOT USE THIS STUFF in an engine bay or where there's heat! Using this stuff as I did was a HORRIBLE MISTAKE as the rubber melts and drips making a mess.







Before anyone else goes and follows me down this path: This stuff has a big problem: the rubberized backing melts at high temperatures, turns to liquid and drips out the bottom of the car.



The good news is that it has enough oil content that it's easy to clean off.

[tig]

My knocking/pinging is back. It didn't happen yesterday. But it did the day before and today. Between 2000-4000rpm under partial/medium throttle & load.

Until I get a professional to help me with this I've put the OEM 179 ECU and AFM back in. Wants to stall at idle in this configuration, but it ain't pinging.

[foolish]

I have a nearly identical motor in my E30. I had an issue with cutting out under high load that was probably related to my original harness and/or my CPS. My idle would also vary a bit as when first starting out when cold. I probably didn't HAVE to ditch the WAR chip system but I felt it could have contributed to my issues and I realized there are better systems out there. I'm curious to see what you come up with? My car had 208 hp and 240 tq on a Dyno Dynamics machine FWIW but I felt like it wasn't optimized. I eventually went with megasquirt 3X and am still involved with wiring it up but I have no doubt it will operate like I want it to when all is said and done. Good luck and I appreciate all your documentation.

[Bav3.5]

How would you describe the performance difference from the Miller setup to the stock ecu/afm? How about the air/fuel ratios? This is interesting since the tunes you (and I) are running had less part-throttle timing than the stock 179 tune.

Tim

[tig]

ZMOG! I just spent about 2 hours on the phone with Paul Burke. My head is about to esplode from all the informations. I feel like an idiot for not trying to get a-hold of him months ago.

Here's what he wants me to do:

1. I gapped my plugs to .027" based on Bentley. He wants me to gap them at 0.32-0.35".
2. He's given me an ignition map that is linear to use as a starting position. See below. **
3. Get an AFR baseline at warm engine idle by adjusting fuel so that I'm doing 13.8 AFR (instead of the 14.7 I have now). Record what delta I had to apply (currently 137) because that will inform the magnitude of the changes I need to make in other parts of the map.
4. Block off the vacuum line to the AFR so that it is static. This will remove one variable.
5. Double check/test my TPS. He saw another car where the TPS was not signalling at all. I may test this at the ECU to ensure I didn't eff something up in building out the wiring harness.

Other stuff:

• I feel much smarter about the relationship between timing, fuel, vacuum, and air-flow. I still can't echo it back but I'm getting smarter about it.
• He expects me to see 218-220hp and 240trq from this motor.
• He's seen IE exhausts where they're causing too much back pressure. We will run a test using the MAF as a sensor to see how much air is actually flowing to determine this.
• My 22lbs injectors should be fine, but are just on the edge of flowing enough at peak power.

** New baseline map that I hope to try today:

[tig]

I spent about 2 hours with Dan Miller this evening. Turns out he lives near Seattle and Brody from Miller Performance put me in touch with him.

I'll document things more when I'm 100% sure, but after driving the car and saying "I know what's wrong" he fixed the ping with a few graceful strokes of his mouse pointer on my tune.

I've thought I've had this liked before so I'm not going to declare victory just yet but based on my spirited driving tonight I'm cautiously optimistic...

[tig]

You'll recall that the mounting tabs on main relay holder on the donor wiring harness was broken. I didn't notice this until after the motor was installed and up until today had not finished tidying up the wiring to the relays and C101.

I also hadn't figured out a way to secure the 1.3 diagnostics connector.

This is what it looked like before; note flopping main relay and diagnostics connector and unprotected wires:


A while back I bought a new set of wiring-harness connectors from a board member with the plan of splicing in the good main relay holder. I have been procrastinating doing this because I still didn't have a way to mount the diagnostic connector.

When I parted out the 88 528e I found my solution. See the bracket on the right side of this photo? That's the bracket used on Super-Etas.
DSC_1918 by t i g, on Flickr

I have no idea where it was mounted in that application, but here's where I put it:


I just bent it and used an M6 bolt with a big washer to mount it.

Here's a really exciting shot of wire splicing in progress.


Yay, nice and tidy:

[trevmmeister]

So clean. Goals....

Also, didnt you have the B35 airbox mounted?

[tig]

So clean. Goals....

Also, didnt you have the B35 airbox mounted?

Thanks.

No, not sure I'm going to either. I kinda like the way it is. I also bought a 924 Turbo air box that I might modify ala what Alpina did for the B7 Turbo.

E.g:

[trevmmeister]

Hm, must have been another thread I was thinking of. Anyway, the B34 look isnt bad, but with a cover that nice, i would want to flash it every time the hood was up. Just a personal preference.

Going FI one day, or just sticking to high comp? (Been a minute since I followed up this thread, i might have missed a few updates on your plans)

[tig]

Hm, must have been another thread I was thinking of. Anyway, the B34 look isnt bad, but with a cover that nice, i would want to flash it every time the hood was up. Just a personal preference.

Going FI one day, or just sticking to high comp? (Been a minute since I followed up this thread, i might have missed a few updates on your plans)

This engine will never be FI.

I will need to substantially modify that 924 Turbo air filter assembly to make it fit. There's really no reason to do it other than I think it would an interesting project and create something unique.

[shwaa]

What does a motor "wants more vacuum advance" mean?

Vacuum advance refers to the timing at part throttle, which is generally more advanced than at WOT. At part throttle there is a certain amount of vacuum in the intake, while at WOT there is essentially none. Cars that didn't get computer-controlled ignition timing often had a vacuum hose running to the distributor, so the vacuum would actuate a lever in the distributor resulting in more spark advance.

So for example, on this map they didn't bother to tune for part-throttle conditions at all. The downside to this would be subpar fuel mileage and throttle response.

Super helpful!

On our cars WOT is determined by the TPS, right? I mean you are either at WOT with the throttle or not, right?

FWIW, my throttle response has always felt fine (and still does with this latest tune) across the range.

However my fuel mileage has suckaged. I'm getting about 16mpg... I expected better with this motor.

This is my original tune from Miller. The car pulls hard and feels good but is very rich and is no where near optimal with this tune. I have been able to get it close but not where it needs to be. After looking at the other tunes, I can see why.

I am going to tune this month and going to try to start with a good base and go from there. My engine is Paul Burke 10.5:1 pistons, N31 cam, 24lbs injectors, ported b35 head and intake. Bav auto style headers, no cat, IE exhaust

Any input would be appreciated ... Sorry about the highjack CEK

[tig]

Any input would be appreciated ... Sorry about the highjack CEK

Email me and I'll send you my tune. Super happy with it as it is right now.

[shwaa]

Email me and I'll send you my tune. Super happy with it as it is right now.

Done ... Thank you very much.

[Neel]

From the back side

Bear with me. I am trying to re-create the "tube of wires and connector " because they got fragged pretty badly on my e34 (m30b35). So far I have used 2gauge wire from the starter to the alternator and plan on re-creating the connector wire with correct gauge wire. What is currently stumping me is the wire that seems to be coming from the wire that goes from the starter to the alternator or visa versa. Is it a ground, for the tube, or is it a ground for that "connector" from starter to alternator ?

Wires in question are bottom of page just left of center.

Any help would be appreciated.

[Neel]

another pic showing which wire im talking about... its the one to the left.

[tig]

Someone was asking about crank nuts on Facebook and someone else asserted they didn't think a crank nut could fly off on it's own if not tightened correctly. I went to find my posts where I talked about my own personal near-catesrophic disaster regarding this and realized that I never actually posted it to this thread. I get feedback from people all the time that this thread has been helpful to them, so I want it to be complete.

So, here's what happened (copied from Vlad's thread):

Went to start Vlad this morning and heard a loud CRACK.

Shut her down and opened the hood. Found this. My radiator fan detonated:


Does this just happen sometimes?

There's nothing (obvious) in there that it could have hit.

Ok, got a chance to look at the car. No dead animals or evidence of animal dismemberment apparent.



Seems to be a lack of blades. I only count the tips of 4 blades present. I found one down by the battery. Hmmm... I wonder where the other 5 went?

After moving the car I found one more blade and...

This washer.



OMFG.

You know what this means, right?

That I'm a hack mechanic who should't be building engines?

It also explains the oil leaking into the crank pulley. I sure hope that driving several thousand miles without a tight crank nut (which is nowhere to be found) didn't do any damage.

If the woodruff key isn't sheared, you should be fine.

Oh, and don't touch my engine.

CJ asks "if the woodruff key is sheared, what do we do? Crush the car?"

Dig the sheared piece out of the crank snout with a pick and install a new key. They are cheap.

http://www.autohausaz.com/search/produc ... 7119951485

It also explains the oil leaking into the crank pulley. I sure hope that driving several thousand miles without a tight crank nut (which is nowhere to be found) didn't do any damage.

Holy crap. You mean you never tightened that nut? Don't you have a checklist or something?

Me, I don't do checklists but whenever I install something I make sure to finish that particular process. Less chance of forgetting something.

Oh, I tightened it. I did it on the stand though and just to about 200lbs. It's supposed to be 325. I also didn't put locktite on it.

I'm not the first to do this, which sorta makes me feel better.

200ft/lb and it still came loose

Or, my memory is wrong and I actually failed to tighten it. Someone above asked "don't you have a checklist? you fucking idiot!"

No and yes.

Next time I will.

Thank you Blunt:


Thank you Strictly BMW:


But, as it turns out I probably didn't need that nut because, I just happened to see this:


I just assumed it had previously fallen out and was lost. But now it's clear that it was the nut that destroyed the fan, not just the washer. I'm glad it didn't dent the underside of the hood!

Regardless, I'm using the new one. I actually should have another used one somewhere (two donor motors) but I can't find it among all my parts.

I have now convinced myself that I never REALLY torqued this nut down. I would have remembered having to use something to prevent the engine from turning, because that much torque turns the motor even if the motor is in gear and the brakes are on. It is also enough to break the 3/8" to 1/2" socket adapter I have. I tried using the shorter 3/8" socket today because the longer one won't fit with the radiator in.


For now I got to 180ft/lbs before the adapter broke. I won't be driving the car before Tuesday and I've ordered a shorter 36mm socket from Amazon that will allow the torque wrench in there.

Ah, yes. I got the right socket and torqued the nut to 325ftlbs.

I have been driving Vlad this week. His PO is in town, and we're trying to get together so he can see what I've done to his baby.

I have not have not had a chance to put him up on the lift to double check, but I'm confident its still leaking at the rear. But now I don't think I'll have to pull the engine, just the transmission.

[tig]

And, for the record, the engine now has 11,256 miles on it since I put it in and is running flawlessly. No leaks either.

If it esploded tomorrow I'd still be pretty damn proud of myself.

[foolish]

Nice work. I have a similar engine I built but with the N21 cam, electric only fan, and megasquirt tuning in slow progress. How do you like that cam? FWIW I torqued the crank nut to like 270 ft lbs. If I recall correctly for whatever reason Paul Burke recommended and I haven't had an issue with it.

[tig]

Nice work. I have a similar engine I built but with the N21 cam, electric only fan, and megasquirt tuning in slow progress. How do you like that cam? FWIW I torqued the crank nut to like 270 ft lbs. If I recall correctly for whatever reason Paul Burke recommended and I haven't had an issue with it.

The engine is awesome. So torquey and smooth. Sounds great too. Really glad i went with the N21 cam. Just enough 'lope' at idle without being annoying for a daily driver. I spend a fair amount of time stopped some days during my commute.

[tig]

It's been exactly 3 years (and just shy of 19k miles) since first start. My wife had posted this video on Facebook and it popped up today reminding me of the event.

https://youtu.be/kD7mkVpJHA0

I was clearly excited that the damn thing started on the first attempt.

I'm clearly still excited that it has still not esploded on me.

[jhall]

Maybe I missed it, but I'm curious about the throttle body assembly after the powder coat. Did you have any pics that documented this process? Maybe just link to what you used to re assemble yours? I want to PC mine also.

Also, a genuine thank you to you for your documentation, it's been so incredibly helpful on my own b35 stuff. You've provided a great resource here.

[harrypalmer]

It's been exactly 3 years (and just shy of 19k miles) since first start. My wife had posted this video on Facebook and it popped up today reminding me of the event.

https://youtu.be/kD7mkVpJHA0

I was clearly excited that the damn thing started on the first attempt.

I'm clearly still excited that it has still not esploded on me.

[tig]

Maybe I missed it, but I'm curious about the throttle body assembly after the powder coat. Did you have any pics that documented this process? Maybe just link to what you used to re assemble yours? I want to PC mine also.

Also, a genuine thank you to you for your documentation, it's been so incredibly helpful on my own b35 stuff. You've provided a great resource here.

I just disassembled it and put it back together in reverse order. It's not hard, or I would have gotten it wrong, which I didn't.