miller War chip questions

[Afelice]

been looking around to turbo the m30b35 and was looking at the war chip I did some searching and see that mostly people are having issues with this setup has anyone used the miller war chip and had good results.

Thx

[euroshark90]

I would stay away from war chips if it were me. I'm going with a megasquirt pnp for my B35 turbo. The ECU plugs right into the stock harness, and is very adjustable.

[cressida_slide]

I too was planning on going the WAR chip route. I hadn’t seen any problems, but then again I haven’t been looking yet. To partially jack this thread, what about running Miller’s MAF with a turbo project, for instance, with MS PNP? I like the simplicity and the increase in flow, but is there a simpler solution if not going with the WAR chip?

[Afelice]

I was told when I called that the war chip offers full adjustability as well as you can set 4 tunes and change from a dial inside the car Literally the flip of a switch. They also told me you can set a base value for afr and it will maintain that afr even under WOT

[athayer187]

The biggest limitation that I have found with a WAR chip is that you can't do any live tuning/datalogging. You have to do a run, look at the wideband info, make changes with the car off, reflash, and then turn the car back on and do another run.

[Shadow]

I was told when I called that the war chip offers full adjustability as well as you can set 4 tunes and change from a dial inside the car Literally the flip of a switch. They also told me you can set a base value for afr and it will maintain that afr even under WOT

so how does that work with the wideband i'm assuming they mean the stock narrow band will target afr but no way..

[Shadow]

those milller war chips it's rare to see people have them on the forums.

check this one.
for a stock m20b25 they have a cai and a chip/maf they gained 25hp/tq.
dyno proven. 25 "+" fucking hp on a cold air intake and a chip.
every e30 guy should be running this 25hp is A LOT but they don't for some reason.
it's dyno proven by miller. the guys trying to sell this stuff.

https://www.millerperformancecars.com/s ... sik-detail

[Afelice]

I was told when I called that with a wideband sensor, you wire it into the ecu and the chip will read the value and tune accordingly I will call again and see if they can elaborate on it further but again he told me that it would tune in this manner under wide open throttle, that's why I wanted to use this set up, ive used megasquirt with the turbo Miata I built and this seems a lot easier. also I like the ability to switch between tunes if you could set it up with a boost controller you could set one tune to run 15# of boost and make 400hp and then the second could be a 300hp tune set for fuel economy with an afr of something like 13.1 to get better fuel economy

and 25 hp is huge they were trying to sell me hard on the m30 tuning package which is the maf the war chip and injectors. they told me that people were seeing 25-35 hp gains from just the maf and the chip. they also will help tune as long as you can provide detalogs

[Afelice]

Just found this
https://www.millerperformancecars.com/s ... ecu-detail

We have developed a standalone-like air-fuel ratio targeting system for boosted M30 and M20 engines using the factory ECU! The Miller Variable Closed Loop Control System allows the factory ECU to target two different air fuel ratios for on and off boost conditions. Just like factory, when you are at idle or part throttle without boost, your WAR Chip powered factory ECU will target 14.7:1 for maximum fuel efficeincy. Under boost though, we have programmed our VCLC system to change the target air fuel ratio so that the ECU is always able to manage and maintain a safe fuel curve regardless of temperature, heat soak, or boost ramp.

The VCLC system uses the AEM built wideband/boost gauge combo to interact with the WAR Chip. This trigger is set at 4 PSI . The Air fuel ratio under boost is user programmable. The system does such a good job at maintaining in boost air fuel ratios that it is almost like a standalone self tuning feature.

On top of that, we have also be able to bring a useable boost signal to the factory ECU for the first time! We have recalibrated aspects of the engines operating code to use a boost signal input to help maintain safe operation with different boost ramps. Boost will come on differently in every gear and at different engine loads. Now, the VCLC system makes the factory ECU seem like it was intended for a boosted setup!

Features

Allows dual AFR targets to be possible with the factory ECU
Accurate to 0.1 AFR
Enables a boost input into the factory ECU
Special .ECU file for the Miller WAR Chip
Easy to follow Instructions on how to install this system
Displays boost/vacuum and AFR or Lambda simultaneously on the same gauge
Bosch Wideband UEGO sensor and weld-in bung included
On-Board 3+ hour Datalogging capability at 20hz per parameter
PC Software to set AFR switch points
Dimmer input included
No free air calibration required—ever

[T_C_D]

Dyno magic.

[Afelice]

Dyno magic.

Do you know anything about this??
I’d like to run this system but it’s expensive and if it would be better to run a different setup I want to know

[George]

I've got a few things that I want to chime in with:


You shouldn't be switching tunes unless your changing the chemical combustion properties of what is inside the cylinder. I.e. higher octane gasoline, nitrous, ethanol, etc. Your may have a manual or electronic boost controller that will allow the waste gate spring crack pressure to be manipulated but the fundemental tune beteeen boost settings shouldn't be any different. On an engine without knock sensing or adjustable cam timing, there is no such thing as a "performance" tune or an "ecomomy" tune. It's either tuned correctly or it is not. EGT is also an effective tool for a proper tune on a dyno tuned engjne when it's measured upstream of the turbo.

I'm not going to shit on whatever product is bring slung - I know what has worked for me and others but exploration and feedback is a good thing. I generally think it's cool that someone (anyone really) is still supporting software these platforms. I just think there needs to be a fundamental understanding of what it offers.

[Afelice]

The reason I want the ability to switch between tunes is so I can run a street tune with something like 8-10# of boost and a tune with something like 12-15# so I would definitely need to adjust fueling for something like that. You could also switch tunes to have launch control on one tune and something like anti lag on another I want one tune for 300whp and another for something like 450

[Shadow]

what's he's saying if it's tuned it's tuned there's no need for map switching unless it's for race gas.
doesn't matter what pressure you put through 5psi or 20psi it should be one map.

[Afelice]

what's he's saying if it's tuned it's tuned there's no need for map switching unless it's for race gas.
doesn't matter what pressure you put through 5psi or 20psi it should be one map.

That doesn’t make sense. If you run 5psi you will need substantialu less fuel than if you were to run 20# to maintain the same air fuel ratio. The ratio won’t change but the tune absolutely will. If you don’t change the tune when increasing boost pressure you will run lean and blow your motor

[Kyle in NO]

You really need to do some more learning about the dynamics of a forced induction engine, as it is apparent you don’t really know what you need or how to achieve it.

[George]

what's he's saying if it's tuned it's tuned there's no need for map switching unless it's for race gas.
doesn't matter what pressure you put through 5psi or 20psi it should be one map.

Thank you Mr. Shadow.

That doesn’t make sense. If you run 5psi you will need substantialu less fuel than if you were to run 20# to maintain the same air fuel ratio. The ratio won’t change but the tune absolutely will. If you don’t change the tune when increasing boost pressure you will run lean and blow your motor

I'm not sure you understand how EFI tuning works. I'm not trying to be a dick - just trying to help you understand. The point I was making is that a tune for 5 psi should look identical to a 10psi (or 15psi or 20 psi) tune up to that load point in your fuel and ignition curve. This principle holds true regardless if you are on MAF or MAP. If you are getting a hung up on the fuel aspect of this, PM me and I can recommend a few good books on the principles behind this.

It would make sense to have multiple "tunes" if there as a physical change to warrant it. I.e. race gas vs premium or running a catalytic converter vs catless - These examples would result in different ideal fuel and ignition curves.

I will say that in theory if you had one tune that was rated to 300 hp and one to 400 hp you can in theory have better resolution with the 300 hp as your load map is spread across fewer cells. The stock 179 ecu doesn't have much to work with as I recall (its been over a decade since I messed with eprom burning on these).

If all you are after is a higher wastegate setting (high boost, medium boost, low boost) I would recommend an electronic boost controller with an in cab adjustment knob.

[Shadow]

you are thinking at WOT it is a set "tune".
like a basic carburetor with fixed timing something.
Every 1psi u put in needs to be re-tuned and even when it's cold vs hot it needs to be retuned yet again.
This is incorrect.


how it actually works is the maf/map measures the pressure or air mass
then puts it in area of the map that already had been tuned for it.
plus all sorts of compensations using temp and o2 readings.

Think about this. my engine is 20psi. afr is spot on at WOT.
if it worked the way you're thinking why isn't my car falling on it's face driving around at 1-5-10psi??
because it's all tuned. 1 map. 1 fuel type.

i'm going to be honest i don't think you should get the miller chip. get a plug and play megasquirt.

[Shadow]

or a begi and timing retard chip.
very outdated way of tuning but it works.
people will talk shit but it works fantastic.

24# injectors
begi fpr
retard ship.

all you have to do is setup afr turning some screws and it's SUUUUPPPER ez to do.
good for like 13psi on an m20. idles perfect. set it forget it type noobs.

all that stuff like $450 at most.