gray635 wrote:This is just incredible. I get frustrated trying to clean brake dust off my wheels. The skill level and attention to detail by Charles and others like him on this board just astound me.
Thanks, but to be clear, this is not about skill. Skill implies mastery that comes from thousands of repetitions. I have no idea what I'm doing.
Stopped by the shop to pick up the suspension bits, the parts from the '88 doors, and doors we won't be using. I gotta get those front strut assemblies disassembled, clean up the mounting tabs, and then get them off for powder coat. I think once they are ready, I'll have one massive powder coat job ready...which is the way to go because my guy generally just charges me about $300-400 for every job, no matter how many parts there are.
I now know for certain that this car WAS an ABS car, and a PO removed the ABS. The VIN indicated ABS, but there were NO ABS parts anywhere, and the tabs for the ABS pump were missing. I never looked closely at the struts to see if they were ABS struts until I picked these up. They are. In fact, the ABS sensors are there, with the wires cut off of them.
Anyone want these? I'm not shipping them, but will happily give them to someone local who can come get 'em. I may put them on CL and then off to recycle they'll go if no one gets em. The skins are in great shape, but there's a little butchering where a PO installed speakers. Also they have the federalization bars welded in.
Anyone know where I should lay down some re-enforcement plate/welds on the subframe (it won't actually be THIS subframe as I've got another I've already put adjustable camber/toe plates on)?
I've been going through doors. All my life. I also started going through all the door hardware. There's a lot of it. I think, actually, the doors are the most complex part of these cars other than the drive train.
Note the window regulator design is the same between '85 and '88 but a different finish was used in the older cars (dark, not galvenized). Also note the buffers that stop the regulator when the window is all the way up are mushed/missing. These are NLA, so I will do some transplanting. I will test all motors and assemblies and use the best of everything. It's nice having two or three sets of everything. I'm realizing that the '88 car had a lot of miles (365k) and the '85 had more age. So bits from both are 'challenged' and it's not always obvious which will work best in this build.
Does anyone know what kind of grease should be used here? I'm thinking a modern silicon grease like Molylube?
The door lock mechanisms are messy. The only part that will ever be visible is the actual striker/receiver (not visible here). I will clean these up, but won't be getting them plated, because there's a mix of metal types that are riveted together. The striker/receiver bits show wear, which bugs me. We shall see whether I can clean them up such that they look new...
I have a matching set of locks with keys I bought from Kohler. I also have locks from several other cars. Getting all the visible bits to be perfect is going to be hard. But I dove in and am getting the hang of how all these parts go together.
Using the cylinder from the matched-key set, I scavenged the best other bits from the others. This one is ready to go. The chrome looks marred in the photo, but that's just some grease. It's tits.
The surrounds are aluminium and I've picked the best two for refinishing. One I will add to the powder coat pile, the other I will refinish with SEM Trim Black paint an determine which I like best. The problem is that little gasket that's deteriorating is toast on all of them and is not listed as a separate part. I need to find some sort of equivalent gasket/grommet that will work instead. Ideas?
By the way, that's another quandary I have: For exterior trim pieces, should I powder coat or paint? I know there were concerns with powder coat not holding up to UV as well. Is this still true?
It's hard to stay focused. I'll pull a part out and immediately want to dive into restoring it, getting distracted from whatever other part I was just working on. Here's an example:
With this, I'm trying different tape techniques. Here I'm using OE-like fabric tape (I failed to take an 'after photo'). I also love F4 tape, but it is over-kill for hidden harnesses like this, and tends to make the OD of the harness bigger that a light application of fabric tape.
For harnesses like this, I need to test every single one for continuity. Writing this made me realize I didn't do this. I'm going to start tagging each one with a note saying "tested" when done. Then, when I get to assembly, I'll have confidence in the parts. The last thing I want to have happen is to find out after the fact that I missed some bad connector (I do carefully inspect each wire for nicks and cuts when cleaning).
Door straps/stops highlight another quandary. There's no way of telling how worn these are. They could be fine, or they could be loosey-goosey. They are available new for ~$65 each. This is the quandry: When a new part is $1.25 it's a no brainier to just order new...although that adds up. But when the parts are $50-200 each new, it REALLY starts to add up.
I will need to decide and have the parts in hand before paint because they need to be installed before paint. I know this because I have proof sitting in the garage with me:
I'm hoping all these images will come in handy later. For, now they help me get organized with parts orders from Blunt. Those striker plates are NLA but all 8 of the ones i have look like shit. Maybe I can get them re-plated silver?