What do I need for a low boost setup?

[Beemernut]

I'm on a budget and I want to start with 280-300whp with an HX40 on a b34; before I build a crazy Otis style turbo setup, can I:

--run stock/some kind of budget injectors
--run without an intercooler
--use the stock clutch of unknown mileage with a rattly throwout bearing
--run an RRFPR in lieu of "proper" engine management (maybe I need education on RRFPRs)
--(edit) torque down stock head bolts instead of head studs
--do this budget setup for <$1500, considering I already have the turbo?

[George]

Why not save and build the car properly as funds allow?

I've been there done that with a budget build. I've always wished I'd done it right the first time around.

[T_C_D]

The "I already have an improperly sized turbo" so I'll boost my car is the worst scenario ever. The answer to almost all of your questions is no.

[demetk]

I'm on a budget and I want to start with 280-300whp with an HX40 on a b34; before I build a crazy Otis style turbo setup, can I:

--run stock/some kind of budget injectors
--run without an intercooler
--use the stock clutch of unknown mileage with a rattly throwout bearing
--run an RRFPR in lieu of "proper" engine management (maybe I need education on RRFPRs)
--(edit) torque down stock head bolts instead of head studs
--do this budget setup for <$1500, considering I already have the turbo?

Lots of us have done just that. Except the clutch thing. You're not going to get power to the ground with a used up clutch.

[Beemernut]

The "I already have an improperly sized turbo" so I'll boost my car is the worst scenario ever. The answer to almost all of your questions is no.

Hey Todd! First off I have yuge respect for you, I know that you're a veteran to boosted 12 valves. But a common pattern I see in these turbo threads is a clash of ideas between the "full spool at 3000rpm" and "full boost in first gear" crowds. I wanted a budget turbo, talked to Otis, and on his recommendation found an hx40 because that's the turbo I can use to maximize potential of the motor's stock internals. I'm happy spooling a Holset between 3-3.5k rpm. Otis took a junkyard m30b34, slapped on an hx40, and made 550whp on e85. We all know that.

Most of you guys have the money/time to overbuild stuff just like the Germans that originally built our cars. Thank God, it keeps our cars on the road. But I'm on the fringe where I don't have the money, time or garage to leave my car on blocks for months at a time, and if I can do a low boost setup without breaking the bank and drive it a little while before upgrading to make serious power, I'll do just that.

I'm not trying to pick an argument with you experienced guys, I value your advice. But I'd prefer at least a simple explanation of why I can't, for example, run an rrfpr in lieu of fuel management in low boost. My budget has its limits, and I know ultimately, I should "do it right," but too often that's how you end up with a "barn find" old car on Craigslist 20 years later that's halfway done and the owner now drives a Hyundai-with-a-1.4-turbo-that's-pretty-wicked.

[Nebraska_e28]

You can do whatever you put your mind to, provided you've done your homework to accomplish it. Don't get me wrong, all of us love a budget as long as you've done enough research to ask questions that don't require spoon-feeding. Some of us are opposed to a budget build or have a bitter taste in our mouth with using sub-par parts. Let a used turbo fail on you in the middle of nowhere & you'll know exactly what I mean. Even the best used parts can provide mixed results or critical failure so long as you're ok with the risk involved. Having been down this road myself, my best advice is take your time & plot your course. If not, later down the road you'll find yourself tweaking/changing/buying things that could've been planned for in the beginning. Serious mission creep.

There's enough info out there to do a budget build with your eyes shut, provided you have the patience to jump hurdles sure to ensue.

[tschultz]

I did RRFPR with 24# injectors, 80's turbo, and piping with TCD turbo chip. Ran fine at 10psi but didn't have the reliability in the fueling method to have good drivability when temperatures got cold. Also didn't have great response and was slower off the line than a 90's oldsmobile. Also always fought with too rich a mixture on WOT and disconnected o2 feedback for forced induction.

Clutch is critical along with TO bearing. Don't even bother buying parts for turbo if you can't fix that to begin with. Some don't use an intercooler, but if you are using budget parts, the intercooler and piping really give you safety margin in the event that your fueling method, octane, air temps or other means aren't quite up to it.

Budget method turbo doesn't really make sense because you will have to continue revising your system to make it work reliably. That, or you will run out of money and scrap the project after spending $$ on a hodge-podge of parts. The most expensive parts are the turbo and the manifold, followed by clutch, RRFPR and exhaust system. No need for head studs if you keep boost below ~10psi.
If you want budget parts, M20 & e30 might be better for you due to the cheap and plentiful manifolds, exhausts and other parts. Still you won't likely be at 300whp with this type of setup on the e28, and if you are, it won't last very long. There is just a much better parts offering for e30's and e36's.

Speaking from experience now after 3 years of going down the budget system and revisiting different aspects of the project along the way. You can read my build thread, but I wanted 'a bit more performance from my car' and here we are years later with what I consider a mild/safe setup that is IMO pretty impressive, but also not wheelspin crazy like most.

[Shadow]

for only 300hp that old turbo is not what you want even if it's the 58mm
but you got it and you'll need to floor it to get it to wake up. on the freeway, it's ok.

i started with the begi/chip combo as well. i like it. it's great for a broke noob kid there's no hate for it.
you MUST get a begi though the ebay FMUs will drive like shit.
Clutch will slip like 7psi if ur lucky and i don't think that's even 300hp
When you get your ebay wastegate it'll probably come with like a 30psi spring so you'll need to buy the authentic version so
be prepared for that too.

just prepare to keep dumping money into it because you are adding on / replacing a shit setup as time goes by.
Which is fine.


1,500 absolutely not. but keep dreaming and buying parts. i wish u good luck.