Installed a Summit Racing aluminum radiator today.

[Skeen]

Here's the radiator: Clicky
PN: SUM-380325
Total with shipping: $180.90 (came in 2 days)

Here are pics: Clicky. I will refer to these as numbered left to right then down (as you would read).

Because this had a radiator cap requirement, I had to do a little rigging to keep the stock expansion tank. I bought a $5 cap and took the spring off, used a 1/8 NPT Male X 1/4" barb, and a length of hose to run it to the tank.

The radiator output was angled and a little long, so I cut off about 3/4" to get more clearance on the the A/C compressor. (pics 1 & 7)

When I first put the rad in, I was a bit worried about the cap-to-hood clearance. I dabbed some grease on the cap and closed the hood to learn that it does touch the pad a little bit, but I didn't think it would really touch the hood. To be sure, I cut the bottom "fins" (pic 2) and the rubber grommets a bit so that I could drop it down about 3/8". If I had just cut the grommets, there would've been metal to metal contact on the bottom.

Then I just made some brackets out of aluminum flat bar I found in the garage to use the stock upper mount holes. The brackets wrap around the tanks a bit make sure they won't slip off. There are also pads b/t the brackets and the tanks on the back side and I used a few pieces of rubber hose to pad the front against the body. (pics 3-6 & 10)

I'm pretty sure a mechanical fan will not fit (I wasn't running one before, just my electric fan), but if you want to measure compared to your own car, it's 80mm from the radiator to the BACK of the water pump/alternator belt.

The hoses. The lower rad hose I currently have on there without any changes. Because the output is a tad higher than the stock rad, the hose is slightly bent at the upper bend (but not fully kinked by any means). I may trim some off the top to see if I can get it better. The upper hose needs to be trimmed an inch or two on each end. When I did this, I couldn't get the hose back on the thermostat housing because mine was old and wouldn't stretch I guess. I went to Autozone and just looked around for something with about the right bends and found one that I could cut to get what I needed. This hose didn't have a PN on it (so I can't tell you what to look for), but I got it for free because the guy was too lazy to figure it out.

I can't really think of anything else to tell you guys at this point. I haven't driven it yet and today is pretty cool Anyway, but I'll give a report when I have some data. Of course, you guys are welcome to check it out and get the extended report at 5er Fest.

[Duke]

Good stuff.............way to blaze the trail. I can't see your pictures at work so excuse me if these questions are obvious.

How much thicker is it compared to the OEM rad?

[Skeen]

Stock rad:
Core: 1.375" thick X 18.125" tall X 22.5" wide
Overall: 2.25" X 19.25" X 26.25" (not including brackets)

Summit rad:
Core: 2.5" X 18" X 20.75"
Overall: 3.125" X 20" X 25.5"

So, the Summit rad is a lot thicker, not quite as wide.

[Ken H.]

A quick note for all my FI friends. The stock M30 US spec cars (186 hp) came with a 13 psi cap. My M535i (218 hp) came with a 14.5 PSI cap. The Euro Spec E28 M5 (286 HP) has a 1.4 bar (20 psi ) cap.


Why would we FI guys with easily over 300 HP have a 13 psi cap installed?

To keep you from breaking engine & tranny mounts?

[Jeremy]

Stock rad:
Core: 1.375" thick X 18.125" tall X 22.5" wide
Overall: 2.25" X 19.25" X 26.25" (not including brackets)

Summit rad:
Core: 2.5" X 18" X 20.75"
Overall: 3.125" X 20" X 25.5"

So, the Summit rad is a lot thicker, not quite as wide.

Quick math:

Stock = 560.7 in^3 core volume

Summit = 933.8 in^3 core volume

This is a 66.5% increase in overall volume over stock, which is pretty damn sweet.

Is there any way to make custom radiator hoses? Braided stainless I think I've seen, but I have no idea what the hassle or cost would be.

Also, what are using for an electric fan, the stock auxilliary fan in front? If so, are you using lower temperature switches, or is that all stock?

Nice work, Mike. Can't wait to see it next week.

Jeremy

[skip535i]

that really is a SLEEK looking install. Can't wait to see it. Good job, mike

[Duke]

Skeen,

Just looked at the pictures. This is a great option for the FI cars.

I would do the following -

- Have the radiator cap removed and a aluminum blank welded in its place.

- have a 1/4 fitting welded on the right side of the radiator in the stock spot to provide overflow to the coolant tank.

-have brackets welded to the radiator.

(maybe TCD can get a quantity buy discount from Summit, have the modifications made and provide it as an option for his s1, s2 or s3 kits?)

Finally -

- Install at least a 20 psi radiator cap on the coolant tank.

And to think, I just bought a 40% smaller radiator (in capacity) for $100 more, I wish you had done this a month ago

[Tammer in Philly]

Duke, your radiator is only 40% smaller. His is 66% bigger ....

Skeen, nice job. Far cheaper than the Griffin and other aluminum options out there, and looks like the install will work well. Are you using a Spal electric? How much room do you have in front of the radiator?

-tammer

[Duke]

Duke, your radiator is only 40% smaller. His is 66% bigger ....

Danke, edit made.

[Tammer in Philly]

Duke, your radiator is only 40% smaller. His is 66% bigger ....

Danke, edit made.

I have to kill these long lab hours somehow ... correcting your math works well. ;-)

-tammer

[Jeremy]

Duke, your radiator is only 40% smaller. His is 66% bigger ....

Danke, edit made.

I have to kill these long lab hours somehow ... correcting your math works well.

-tammer

Least you're not correcting his grammar/spelling. You'd never get any work done.

[Skeen]

So far I've just got the stock fan on the front controlled by an adjustable thermo switch (which you can also get from Summit, but I already had it). My Spal will not fit on the back. If I need more fan, I'll have to get one or two small ones for the back side. Hopefully I won't need to go there.

[Maddog]

Based on my measurements, a stock fan will not fit. I think I figured that you would need to find 0.5" to make it work. I think I figured out a way to do it, but I will need to machine a spacer for the fan. I should be working on this next week.

I might see if I can't work on the direct drop in version of this radiator.

[Duke]

Cut the threaded connection off of the water pump and grind down the four bolts that hold the pulley to the pump some. Or, use large rivets to attach the pulley too the pump. After that a electric fan may fit.

or, use this pump with rivets for the pulley - Water Pump and Gasket - 13mm bolt thru fan clutch - BAV Auto $54

[Maddog]

Stock rad:
Core: 1.375" thick X 18.125" tall X 22.5" wide
Overall: 2.25" X 19.25" X 26.25" (not including brackets)

Summit rad:
Core: 2.5" X 18" X 20.75"
Overall: 3.125" X 20" X 25.5"

So, the Summit rad is a lot thicker, not quite as wide.

Isn't the summit radiator 2.25" thick?

[Skeen]

Stock rad:
Core: 1.375" thick X 18.125" tall X 22.5" wide
Overall: 2.25" X 19.25" X 26.25" (not including brackets)

Summit rad:
Core: 2.5" X 18" X 20.75"
Overall: 3.125" X 20" X 25.5"

So, the Summit rad is a lot thicker, not quite as wide.

Isn't the summit radiator 2.25" thick?

Oops, yes it is.

[Maddog]

That will give a 49.9% increase in core volume.

[rs4pro3]

Cut the threaded connection off of the water pump and grind down the four bolts that hold the pulley to the pump some. Or, use large rivets to attach the pulley too the pump. After that a electric fan may fit.

or, use this pump with rivets for the pulley - Water Pump and Gasket - 13mm bolt thru fan clutch - BAV Auto $54

Ditto that, I used that same water pump for my e30 to m30 conversion as there was a lack of space between the water pump and the pulley

[Maddog]

Even with that pump setup, you have less than 2" of clearance for an electric fan. I've yet to find a fan that can fit.

[canyoncarver]

i cant confirm this, but word has it; that the euro TD cars used a flat fan blade that may just be the key to the clearance issues described.
bmw part# 11 5222 43 303

again.........i havent actually held one, so i cant be positive...........

[Maddog]

Where did you get that info on that fan? I can get one, I just want to make sure that I am not waisting my money.

[Mark 88/M5 Houston]

If you look up the part number "Canyoncarver" posted you will find that is a fairly commonly used part on the later BMW's. You might find one in a wrecking yard to try before spending money on a new one.

Nevermind..............................Mike pointed out my lack of due diligence in my research.

[Skeen]

Yeah, but if you look carefully, that whole list is Euro diesel cars. Hard to find them in junkyards here.

[iamcreepingdeath]

I am resurrecting this thread from the dead.

I just bought a similar aluminum universal radiator off ebay for $100, and I will be attempting to install it, along with an ebay pusher fan, and I will put pics here. The OP's pics are long gone, as this thread is 13 years old...