ElGuappo wrote:I will bring my torch just in case those ends don't want to come out of the steering knuckle...and a 3lb hammer....'the Persuader'.
Simple job, and you really want ramps to tighten/torque the UCA/LCA nuts after they are on the car, because they have to be done when the suspension is loaded. So if you want to do that work, BRING YOUR RAMPS!
NOR CAL Bay Area Get Together. BBQ, Drinks, Mini W/F. 5-16
I'll bring all four of my ramps =)
Good call!ElGuappo wrote:I will bring my torch just in case those ends don't want to come out of the steering knuckle...and a 3lb hammer....'the Persuader'.
Simple job, and you really want ramps to tighten/torque the UCA/LCA nuts after they are on the car, because they have to be done when the suspension is loaded. So if you want to do that work, BRING YOUR RAMPS!
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To quote jbort and John...the only way to bleed brakes is manually with a person in the car!derrith wrote:My rugby game doesn't start until 2p, so it looks like I will make it out at least until noon. I'd like to bleed the M50 swap's brakes if possible, I've got fluid and speed bleeders installed. Anybody have one of those fancy vacuum things?
Add one more to the club who says that's still the best way. The others are just for when you don't have anyone else handy.Bimmerguy2002 wrote:To quote jbort and John...the only way to bleed brakes is manually with a person in the car!derrith wrote:My rugby game doesn't start until 2p, so it looks like I will make it out at least until noon. I'd like to bleed the M50 swap's brakes if possible, I've got fluid and speed bleeders installed. Anybody have one of those fancy vacuum things?
You probably wont need a torch. I have a ball joint remover if thats needed, But all the ball joints I removed I just hit the outer part where the taper is & it drops out. They call it "Shocking the hole".ElGuappo wrote:I will bring my torch just in case those ends don't want to come out of the steering knuckle...and a 3lb hammer....'the Persuader'.
Simple job, and you really want ramps to tighten/torque the UCA/LCA nuts after they are on the car, because they have to be done when the suspension is loaded. So if you want to do that work, BRING YOUR RAMPS!
I dont have a vaccum bleeder yet but I need to purchase one & I have a 400 the snap on truck owes me so I may go puck one up before the weekend..derrith wrote:My rugby game doesn't start until 2p, so it looks like I will make it out at least until noon. I'd like to bleed the M50 swap's brakes if possible, I've got fluid and speed bleeders installed. Anybody have one of those fancy vacuum things?
A vacuum bleeder is just as good as the manual way, you just have to do it right. If you have ABS I believe you have to go in & pump the pedal 12 times before bleeding each wheel, starting with rr lr rf lf.
Manny, no offense but I am guessing you have not removed many control arms from steering knuckles yet...
You can wang away with a hammer for 30 minutes and get nowhere (I have) or put the torch to it and 5 minutes of heat later 1 hit and it pops out.
Arms that have been in there for a long time or have been exposed to corrosive environments just tend to get sealed up, and simply hitting it with a hammer is not enough...If you had luck with that, it means the arm was out recently.
You can wang away with a hammer for 30 minutes and get nowhere (I have) or put the torch to it and 5 minutes of heat later 1 hit and it pops out.
Arms that have been in there for a long time or have been exposed to corrosive environments just tend to get sealed up, and simply hitting it with a hammer is not enough...If you had luck with that, it means the arm was out recently.
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ElGuappo wrote:Manny, no offense but I am guessing you have not removed many control arms from steering knuckles yet...
You can wang away with a hammer for 30 minutes and get nowhere (I have) or put the torch to it and 5 minutes of heat later 1 hit and it pops out.
Arms that have been in there for a long time or have been exposed to corrosive environments just tend to get sealed up, and simply hitting it with a hammer is not enough...If you had luck with that, it means the arm was out recently.
Bring that 3lb hammer & I bet it comes off with a few hard wacks. For all the ones I had trouble with there was the Ball joint remover.. But the ones on my 23 year old E28 & the few I removed at the yard weren't too hard with just a hammer.. I just don't like heating metal up with a torch..
Speaking of eye candy.. Where's your white coolant bottle son! Mine is whiter that that & its got with no hood onrussc wrote:Thanks for the addy!
I got some eye candy this week. Ill bring it for some show and tell 8)
RussC
BTW Nice engine compartment.. Only missing a coolant reservoir that you can see the coolant.. Only like $7 0r $8 at the yard..
Im a firm believer in "if it isn't broke, dont fix it". Thats the orginal resivoir, and untill it breaks, it'll stay that way.
RussC
RussC
Manny D. wrote:Speaking of eye candy.. Where's your white coolant bottle son! Mine is whiter that that & its got with no hood onrussc wrote:Thanks for the addy!
I got some eye candy this week. Ill bring it for some show and tell 8)
RussC
BTW Nice engine compartment.. Only missing a coolant reservoir that you can see the coolant.. Only like $7 0r $8 at the yard..
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x3........and thanks for hood latch handle Manny
James
James
Last edited by balticblau on May 18, 2009 3:40 PM, edited 1 time in total.
It WAS hot.. I came out with a serious redneck wife beater burn..ElGuappo wrote:I also wanted to say I had a good time, thanks Manny for hosting all of us. Too bad it was so hot, but thems the breaks.
Glad we got at least SOME work done...
I can't wait till the next one!
Next time we can pull my head, Or maybe I'll pull it & have it ready for install..
We can have another one in a month or so if everyone is down..
P.S. Anyone local got a welder
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