Removing hub, lower timing cover...

[Rich in WI]

I'm in gut check mode. I need to pull my cyclinder head for various reasons. While I'm in there I'm thinking I should replace my timing components - the chain and the rails. The piston is pretty new. I'm getting mental blocks regarding the hub removal. Seems like this aspect of the job is the biggest variable in terms of effort and complexity.

I have access to air tools and have a decent 1/2 inch impact gun that runs on 90 psi. I'm not sure of the max torque. I've removed my head before and re-installed it successfully, so I'm not a total newbie. But doing the hub is new territory and involves big torque. At best the car will be on jackstands. What am I getting into?

Thanks for any advice,
Rich

[Madhungarian]

I assume we are talking about an M30 motor.
You will need a tool to hold the crank in place while cracking the bolt. I can send you a pic. if you wish. Than you need a long 3/4 inch bar with a 36mm socket I beleive. It took a cheater bar and two man to brake mine loose. Taking it off is difficult, but simple. putting it back on will require a 3/4 inch torque wrench good beyond 300ft/lb. I borrowed one and it was amazingly simple with the right tool.
I got advice on the board using air tools and some said they work too, but with the limited space it is tough to get a tool on that nut. 1/2 inch WILL NOT WORK! TRUST ME! I would go manual. In either case the radiator needs to come out!

[Rich in WI]

We are talking an M30 motor. I can probably find a 3/4 inch breaker bar. The 36 mm socket is another matter. Time to do some digging at my local surplus junk shop.

Can you send me a pic of the device you used to hold the crank in place? E-mail is OK by me, or post to the board.

Many thanks,
Rich

[John]

I cut a hole for the crank nose in a piece of 1/4 plate a couple of feet long then drilled four holes in it to bolt to the crank. It took two of us with a 3/4" with cheater. My air tools wouldn't fit.

[Madhungarian]

Rich,

I finally got around taking a pic. of the tool. It mounts on the front of the crank.

[Craig in Davis]

Rich,

The old aircooled VW flywheel holders will work but, you need to remove the tranny in order to bolt them on. If its a 5 speed, depending on how good your clutch is you might be able to put it in 5th, chock the wheels with the emergency brake on and use a 3/4" socket with cheater bar. I have used both methods with success. On one car I had to pull the tranny and use the flywheel lock as the clutch was slipping too much.

HTH,

Craig

[Rich in WI]

Thanks for the help on this. After a bit of consideration I'm thinking I'm going to pass on this job for now. It's not 100% necessary and I need a good excuse to rebuild the bottom end in another year or two.

Thank you!
Rich