Well, got my car on the rack today, finally realized that all mu bushings are TRASHED!!! So, I've compiled a list of what I think ai need, and I would appreciate it if you guys could tell me if there is either anythign I may be missing, or, anything else I should be replacing while I'm down there.
Front:
Sway bar end links
lower control arms
tie rods
ider arm
Rear:
Pitman arms (dog bones)
subframe bushings
sway bar end links
Should I do trailing arm bushings, cause I saw Bav auto has eccentric style, which would help with alignmet, and I'm waiting to hear back from steve if he has those. Also, what about the idler arm, isn't there 2 of those? I dunno, lol.
Also, is there any upgraded parts from factory? I know there is a better swaybar I can get, but, are there better endlinks I cna get, too, that are worth it? I could get the links now, and the bar later, maybe? I'm just thionking practicality here, if I do this now, may as well do the best once. Thanks again, guys.
steering and suspension time
-
John In Valdosta
- Posts: 135
- Joined: Feb 12, 2006 12:00 PM
If you're doing that much on the front end, you might as well do the whole package.
Here's what I did just a few months back.
Tie rods, center link and idler arm (just one, the other is a pitman arm)
Upper control arms, AL Lower Control Arms with PG Bushings
Sway Bars links.
I took the whole thing out as a unit, remove the bolts from the bushing end of the UCA and LCA, remove the idler arm from the subframe and remove the three bolts from the steering arm. The onlt ball soint you have to remove on the car is the pitman arm on the steering box. The ball joints are much easier to remove from the steering arm when you have them off the car.
This was much easier than removing one component at a time (which I had done once before)
Rear:
Dog bones - easy, it'll take you longer to jack up the car than to change these.
Sway bar end links - easy it'll take you longer to remove the wheel than to change these
Subframe bushings - Hard you're first time, get a sawzall if you don't already have one. read archives for instructions. It took me about 3 hours per side the first time, I could do it again in less that 2 for the whole car.
Trailing arm bushings, I plan on buying eccentric bushings for these, maybe this summer. I haven't heard of too many people who have them.
Sawy bar endlinks - there are adjustable endlinks out there, but there are many people running stock endlinks on larger swaybars.
Here's what I did just a few months back.
Tie rods, center link and idler arm (just one, the other is a pitman arm)
Upper control arms, AL Lower Control Arms with PG Bushings
Sway Bars links.
I took the whole thing out as a unit, remove the bolts from the bushing end of the UCA and LCA, remove the idler arm from the subframe and remove the three bolts from the steering arm. The onlt ball soint you have to remove on the car is the pitman arm on the steering box. The ball joints are much easier to remove from the steering arm when you have them off the car.
This was much easier than removing one component at a time (which I had done once before)
Rear:
Dog bones - easy, it'll take you longer to jack up the car than to change these.
Sway bar end links - easy it'll take you longer to remove the wheel than to change these
Subframe bushings - Hard you're first time, get a sawzall if you don't already have one. read archives for instructions. It took me about 3 hours per side the first time, I could do it again in less that 2 for the whole car.
Trailing arm bushings, I plan on buying eccentric bushings for these, maybe this summer. I haven't heard of too many people who have them.
Sawy bar endlinks - there are adjustable endlinks out there, but there are many people running stock endlinks on larger swaybars.
-
Guest
The reason most people don't have the eccentric trailing arm bushings is a combination of several factors. Cost, they're a real PITA to change, they tend to squeak, and rear tire wear isn't an issue.
Typically the only time you need some sort of rear adustability is to reduce negative camber which was induced by lowering springs.
Another problem with the eccentric bushings is how they function. Due to them being eccentric, as you turn the eccentric both Toe and Camber changes. This coupling will drive most alignmenyt guys absolute nuts.
A better, although more expensive solution is to have the trailing arm mounting tabs slotted/tabbed for use with eccentric bolts. This allows independent adjustment of Toe and Camber and your alignment guy will love you. Ireland Engineering does this modification, it will cost you about $450-500 + a rear subframe. They will also press in new subframe bushing for a modest additional charge. Best way to get it done, acquire a used rear subframe and ship it to Ireland for modification.
Rich
Typically the only time you need some sort of rear adustability is to reduce negative camber which was induced by lowering springs.
Another problem with the eccentric bushings is how they function. Due to them being eccentric, as you turn the eccentric both Toe and Camber changes. This coupling will drive most alignmenyt guys absolute nuts.
A better, although more expensive solution is to have the trailing arm mounting tabs slotted/tabbed for use with eccentric bolts. This allows independent adjustment of Toe and Camber and your alignment guy will love you. Ireland Engineering does this modification, it will cost you about $450-500 + a rear subframe. They will also press in new subframe bushing for a modest additional charge. Best way to get it done, acquire a used rear subframe and ship it to Ireland for modification.
Rich
-
C.R. Krieger
- Posts: 14507
- Joined: Feb 12, 2006 12:00 PM
- Location: Halfway up the left side of Lake Michigan
- Contact:
If they haven't been replaced before, I'd do the upper control arms as well.kendogg wrote:Well, got my car on the rack today, finally realized that all my bushings are TRASHED!!! So, I've compiled a list of what I think ai need, and I would appreciate it if you guys could tell me if there is either anything I may be missing, or, anything else I should be replacing while I'm down there.
Front:
Sway bar end links
lower control arms
tie rods
ider arm
Only if you need them, IMO. You'd also need 'before' alignment specs in order to have even the faintest idea of which way to install them, though. I'd stick with OEM parts unless your rear suspension is grossly out of alignment.Should I do trailing arm bushings, cause I saw Bav auto has eccentric style, which would help with alignmet,
No. The counterpart on the other side is the pitman arm coming directly off the steering box.Also, what about the idler arm, isn't there 2 of those? I dunno, lol.
No; it isn't 'better'. Its' different. If you don't know what it does or how it will affect your handling, you're better off sticking with what's already in there. Get through a few driver schools, learn what they do, and then think about changing antiroll bars.Also, is there any upgraded parts from factory? I know there is a better swaybar I can get,
Again, you're missing the point by not understanding the function of these parts. It is reportedly much more common for the brackets to which these attach to fail than for the parts themselves to fail. IME, the biggest problem with these links is that you often screw them up while doing something else that involves disconnecting them - like almost any front suspension work. Buy new ones if you feel like it (not a bad idea, since you may screw one up halfway through the job) but don't go looking for any 'upgrades' here. Unless you're changing to a wildly different antiroll bar, the OEM links are fine.but, are there better endlinks I can get, too, that are worth it?
Yes, but for an entirely different reason. You can change out the antiroll bar fairly easily even after all the other work is done.I could get the links now, and the bar later, maybe? I'm just thinking practicality here, if I do this now, may as well do the best once.
-
John In Valdosta
- Posts: 135
- Joined: Feb 12, 2006 12:00 PM
A better, although more expensive solution is to have the trailing arm mounting tabs slotted/tabbed for use with eccentric bolts. This allows independent adjustment of Toe and Camber and your alignment guy will love you. Ireland Engineering does this modification, it will cost you about $450-500 + a rear subframe. They will also press in new subframe bushing for a modest additional charge. Best way to get it done, acquire a used rear subframe and ship it to Ireland for modification.
I have a spare subframe if anyone is interested in doing this. I sell cheap too.